Specializing in War of 1812 era miniature warships
About these models:
Each model kit gives you a waterline replica, based on an actual historical ship and/or ship class. I strive to make them as detailed and authentic as possible, given the limits of 3D printing, material tolerances, and their tiny scale.
The ships are designed to be compatible with naval miniatures games and systems like Post Captain, Sails of Glory, Heart of Oak, Flying Colors/Serpents of the Seas (using miniatures instead of counters), and Fire As She Bears.
Because these are game pieces, the models will include authentic hull form, mast and sail configurations, and some deck fixtures. So your painted and assembled model should look great from the usual viewing distance on a tabletop. But it won't include fine details like pennants or rigging, ship's boats, all the individual guns on a deck, or other aspects that tend to be important to ship model enthusiasts.
"Strong & Flexible" white plastic, unpainted.
How to order:
Each ship model consists of several (4 to 6) parts, comprising the hull, masts, and sail assemblies. Be sure to order each of the component parts, as directed, to get the complete kit in your shipment.
Preparing your model:
Assembly is quick and easy. Use a super glue or any glue suitable for ABS plastic. Paint your model as desired.
WS&F plastic is quite flexible -- if you want to modify a topsail schooner by removing the topsail to make it a pure schooner rig, you can snip off the topsail by cutting gently with small sharp scissors.
My smallest models stretch the absolute limits of what Shapeways can print in WS&F plastic. Even then, you may notice in the smallest models that the masts start to look a little thick. That's because I have to design them at Shapeways' minimum thickness requirements (1.0 mm). If you're a dedicated ship modeler, you may prefer to make your own masts and sails for the smallest models instead of buying the 3D printed ones I offer. In that case, just order a hull. more to scale at tiny sizes than 3D printed masts. I've seen good results using music wire for masts and lightly stained paper for sails.
Wargaming with your model:
Models have a flat bottom but do not come with a base. Due to the relative height of the masts and sails, they may not stand upright on their own. A reusable artist's putty (like UHU Tac) works great for securing your model to a base of your choice. The photos of assembled, painted models use bases cut from a crackle-finish plexiglass sheet -- the kind used as fluorescent light covers.
I can print a model with more and finer detail that way. A solid model printed as a single piece would look more "cartoony" at this scale, because the 0.7mm minimum wall thickness would force certain areas to be exaggerated more than I would like.
Even now, you'll notice that masts and bulwarks on my models are thicker than they would be if they were at true scale. Also, when I design a ship in individual parts, I can use more polygons (and get a smoother model) with less chance of exceeding Shapeways' design limits.
A kit offers more options for you, because you can buy just a hull (and add your own parts to customize it), or order just a single mast if that's all you want. A kit makes painting easier, because you can get your brush into all the nooks and crannies of each piece and then assemble the painted parts.
Why these models are worth the price
These models are tiny, but each one is an artisanal, specialty craft product designed by one person as a labor of love. I use actual period plans and authentic specifications to make the models, and each new design can take weeks to finalize. 3D printing is micro-production on demand, which gives you the opportunity to own unique and specialized creative works. To my knowledge, no other company is offering these specific ships at this particular scale. My models will never beat the price of prepainted and preassembled models that are mass-produced in China. But when you compare, remember there's an added human cost for those products that's not reflected in the retail price you pay.