Dream foundry

This shop will contain miniatures mainly designed for tabletop gaming.
As I care about appearance for many minis I will likly disallow any material but detail.  This is because I do not like the SWF fuzzyness.  If you order SWF do so at your own risk as they dont look quite as nice.   Hopefully soon SW will offer higher res detail especially in Z. (hint hint)

Some assembly may be required for posing of some models.

SCALE:
The following ship scales will be present:
Fighter combat:  These are generally between 25 and 40mm in length, optimized for painting (IMO) but still usable on  a 1 and 1.5" grid.

Fleet combat: Capital ships are centered around 75mm while fighters are between 1 and 1.5cm (roughly).  They work best on a 1.5 to 2" grid

Collectable: Certain ships, generally the ones I really like and want bigger, will be scaled up to around 150cm.  But expect these to be pricey due to material required. 


Assembly Notes
I typically model with a base hole of 1.7mm diameter for large,  0.9mm diam for medium or about 0.64mm diameter for smaller models (mainly fleetscale).  You may need to take a drill bit of this size to open the hole.  For detail material there will be trapped gell inside.  Use hot water and scrape out the hole gently with an exacto or small toothpick, so that adhesives will set against the polymer and not the gell. 

Material Notes:
While I recommend detail material as it gives a smoother surface, and shows details better, it is not for all models.  Some of the smallest models with long pointy bits should be ordred in SWF.  I still order them in detail but I get about an 80% unbroken rate from such models.  Ive had no problems with SWF on these little models.   But be warned that the smallest models may have bits broken before you recieve them, so order those in detail material at your own risk.  

Also, Detail material is fairly fragile compared to SWF.  I have dropped a couple of the larger models a couple feet onto hardwood and watched pieces break off.  Fixing them is usually striaght forward with a bit of sanding of the joint (4-600 grit) then appropriate glue.  I usually pin such breaks just for reinforcement.