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PT-Boat is the shapeways 3D printed model section of the long running website set up by myself - John Drain - around 1998, which specialises in developing and designing serious performance, scale model, operational WW2 torpedo boats and accessories and making most of that design work and crazy ideas available for fellow modellers.
IMPORTANT Information: accepts your order and manufactures all of the products on this shop for me and they also handle all aspects of the payment, order, and shipping processes. Any concerns that you have about any of your orders should be addressed to Shapeways in the first instance. Go to the “Support”, “Contact Us” link at the bottom of most shapeways pages.

 Please contact me if there are any design issues that shapeways cannot resolve, you can “Send Message” to me via the link at the top of the shop pages. Sometimes parts cannot be made in particular materials as the fine detail may disappear and Shapeways may reject an order in such an instance, they will refund your money and cancel the order in cases like this, this is their standard procedure, please contact me.

 If you need something in a different scale or maybe a little different detail, it may be easy or it may be very difficult or time consuming to do, I can’t promise anything but send me a message. For instance if I scale an item from 1/20th to 1/24th the detail may become too small and the item may need to be totally redrawn to become possible, or you could elect to “print it anyway” and suffer the loss of detail. I test print everything before I put it on my shop at any particular scale and in a particular material, if Shapeways or I am not happy with it, it doesn’t go on.

 Depending on the material used for your order, the parts may need washing to remove unwanted waxy support material which is left behind following the SLA 3D printing process, this is particularly true of the fine detail plastics and the “smoothest fine finish” material as this is a UV cured liquid. These waxy support remnants may affect your painting. The residue and any uncured liquid, can be cleaned off with an old toothbrush and some simple dishwashing detergent in warm, NOT HOT, water. Take your time and get into all the small crevices. This SLA material should also be left out in the sun for a few hours, or longer, or under a UV-A light, NOT a heat lamp, to fully cure any resin which was not fully cured in the 3D printing process.

 Fine Detail Plastic is an acrylic material capable of extremely high detail and is a popular choice for hobbyists creating scale models, miniature sets, and other decorative products. Although the surface can be uneven in colour due to the nature of the printing process, most people opt to paint their models anyway. This material is not really recommended for functional parts due to its brittleness. Smooth: This finish offers a smooth surface and high detail. Smoothest: This finish is capable of the highest detail and smoothest surface, most of MY models are “Smoothest”.

 Versatile or Professional plastics, or even the metals are better for functional parts that can withstand the handling and shocks in a functional R/C model but as they are made using different processes and because some are effectively sandblasted before shipping the fine detail or even some of the dimensions can be lost in the process.



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