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SirTumbleweed @Kohnohtotg I don't see any pictures in the attachment so I can't provide much support for now. Have the balljoints snapped when you were removing them from the sprues or did you attempt to pop them out after inserting them in the lower torso? I know it's a bit late to say this, but the torso assembly should be treated as if working with regular model kits (use clippers to remove pieces, etc). Also, I've opened up the frosted options but honestly, they're so ridiculously overpriced I can't really reccommend them. Again, really sorry the model didn't work as intended, I have no way of printing high-accuracy prototypes so I rely on feedback I get from people on Shapeways. Thanks for the input btw, I'll try to figure out a solution to the problems you mentioned as soon as possible.

SirTumbleweed @Kohnohtotg I'm really sad to hear that it didn't work out. It'd be a huge help if you could provide me with some images of the model, so that I could attemp to fix the balljoint issue. As for the axle problem, I always reccommend using a nail file or a bit of sandpaper to remove the residual plastic, since 3D printing isn't 100% accurate all the time.

SirTumbleweed @Fusionx963 To keep a long story short, I've been really busy with IRL stuff and had to put all of my 3D projects on hold. It might be a while until I update this since I'm currently away from my PC.

SirTumbleweed @fb5a3f9 As soon as I get back from vacation. I can't give a set date since I'm not sire when I'll get back, but it shouldn't be more than a week/10 days until V2 is out.

SirTumbleweed @EliJBrony Thanks for the feedback! I'll be fixing the sliding problem and tightening the clips in V2.

SirTumbleweed @fbc4589 I honestly wouldn't know since I don't have much experience with Shapeways' metals. If you want to match the chrome gold, polished gold steel is probably the better option. On the other hand, if you don't want a lot of reflectivity, matte gold steel might be the way to go.

SirTumbleweed @ThatchMac Hey, thanks for the feedback! I'll be fixing the problem with the mask sliding up with V2, as well as the pop-off function. I'm glad you like the mask!

SirTumbleweed @dragologer I don't think Shapeways offers a polished black plastic options, but there's 2 ways you can go about making one. You could get the black version and manually polish it with some fine sandpaper, or you could get the polished white version and spraypaint it black. Shapeways plastic is pretty absorbant due to the way it's printed, so even painting it with acrylic paints shouldn't be a problem if you don't have spraypaint. I'd personally recommend the second option, since polishing models with sandpaper runs the risk of messing up some details.

SirTumbleweed @Michael12 I'm not sure until I try. I've done models with runes before, but some might not print because of the scale. I'll probably have to do a slight overhaul of the mask to include more surfaces with runes, but it's definitely possible. Although, if it proves to be too much work I'll probably do it only if commissioned, since I already have my hands full with mask requests.

SirTumbleweed @astanglewicz Thanks, I'd really appreciate that! Reviews actually help me out a lot, since that way I'm able to see if there's anything in need of fixing/changing with the model. I'll be looking forward to it!

SirTumbleweed @astanglewicz Ey, thanks! If you don't mind the wait, V2 should be up in around 15 days, 20 at the absolute most since I'm currently on vacation. As for the prices, I always try to keep mine down as much as possible, since my main goal was to do this for the community.

SirTumbleweed @dragologer Hey there! Sorry for the somewhat late response. I've attached a picture of the finished model printed in black plastic. Many thanks to Sparkytron for providing me the image since I don't yet have a mask for myself. It's been confirmed that the clip system works fine. The eyes align pretty nicely as well, unlike the official model whose eyes are a bit too far apart, so I'm quite proud of V1. @galva101 I'll be releasing V2 as soon as I get back from vacation. Some of the major changes will include introduction of a better pop-off system, along with some tweaks to make it more accurate to the official model. I plan change up the eyes as well, but I'll probably keep the same distance between them as V1.

SirTumbleweed @Tahu136 Shapeways plastic is pretty durable, but it fades in comparison to injection-molded ABS pieces TLG produces. That's one of the reasons TLG refuses to sell/give out 3D-printed models, since they simply don't pass their rigorous quality control. I never said it'd break if you apply a bit of pressure to it. I didn't personally try to replicate TLG's system since some people who did try told me the original design breaks fairly easily which is probably due to wall thickness. That's not to say it can't be done, simply that it's not too easy to pull it off properly unless some changes are made.

SirTumbleweed @Slythenperior I've found that not attaching the two prongs at a normal angle helps to relieve the pressure put on them greatly (ie. having them curve invards or outwards), along with a slight increase in thickness at the midpoint. That's not to say that copying TLG's design wouldn't work, it's just some info a fellow 3D-modeler gave me on BZP so I figured I'd give you a heads-up. And don't worry about "stealing my thunder" or anything of the sort since my goal with the mask was to give the community a way to get one since TLG wasn't going to produce it. I figured other people would make their own versions, but seeing as a fair portion of people charge ridiculous prices for their masks on shapeways, I didn't want the only option of getting the MoUP to be a 25+$ 3D-print.

SirTumbleweed Hey, this is a pretty good attempt at the MoUP, although it seems like the side spikes are a bit too small compared to the original, which makes the eyes look kinda weird (nothing against your model, the original has the eye problem as well, which is why I altered them a bit in my version to make them align properly). Also, I believe some people have already tried replicating 100% TLG's clip-on system, but it always ended up breaking since Shapeways' plastic is nowhere near as durable as ABS. That'd the main reason why other modelers (including myself) have tried to come up with different systems. Mine has been tested and proven to work, so I'll probably share it with the community after I've perfected it a bit. All in all not bad, do message me if your system works, since I'd be really interested to see how you pulled it off withiut having it break like the previous attempts at copying TLG's system.