CCE Models produces undecorated T Scale (1:450) rolling stock shells, kits, details, and structures under the brand name "CCE Models".
My models are primarily North American prototypes, but I also offer some British, European, and Australian models.
I am continuously revising old models, adding new models, and experimenting with developing better technology and more accurate details for T scale. You can follow my blog for all the latest news and developments. I also frequent the Talking T-Gauge Facebook Group, and Talking T Gauge chat board. My recommended vendor for all your T scale needs is TGauge.com.
Custom design and decoration service is available, contact me for a quote.
Recommended finishing technique:
1. Clean any oily/waxy residue off the shell. For me, this is a two step process; First, I use a solvent to clean it; I use Vallejo Airbrush Thinner because it's readily available and I use for my airbrush, and it's not very noxious; Some modelers use Bestine or other acrylic/wax thinners. After this, wash gently with a #6 brush or equivalent in warm soapy water, rinse, and allow to dry completely. Inspect and repeat if necessary to remove any remaining waxy gunk. I use a stiffer brush to gently whisk the surface after this is done. Be wary around any thin parts. NOTE. It's not absolutely necessary to do the solvent step, just warm water usually works fine and I did that for years. The solvent cleans it just a little bit better.
2. Sand any rough areas lightly with fine sandpaper or sanding sticks. Wash/rinse, let dry.
3. Apply 1 or 2 thin coats of Future acrylic floor wax (or other acrylic clear coat). I apply with #2 brush and put it on thicker on any "rough" areas. You will note it "soaks in". Inspect surface, sand and touch up again if needed . Remember the next layers of paint will also add thickness so try not to add too much . For information on Future or it's equivalents: [url]http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html[/url]
4. Prime with spray primer of your choice. I use Tamiya Fine Surface Primer rattle can. Sand lightly again *if needed* and touch up.
5. Apply finish coat(s); I have successfully used both acrylic brush-on, and rattle can spray-can lacquer. I have even used cans of Krylon, but I prefer Tamiya rattle can. I avoid enamel
sprays or brush paint as it sometimes reacts with the acrylic to make a sticky mess!
6. Decal and weather as needed/desired.
Note: Allow coats to dry thoroughly before adding more, especially if different base (ie. lacquer vs acrylic).
7. Window glass can be represented with MicroScale Krystal Klear or using clear decal film. I have used both successfully. Generally I use decal film for larger windows. I also use Krystal Klear to attach handrails or other details.
8. Special note regarding CCE couplers
: These have an internal pivot point and the knuckle flexes (on Revision 02) and usually there is some printing "wax" inside the draft gear that prevents the coupler from moving back and forth on the pivot. In order to clean them, first give good (5 mins) soak in warm water to soften the waxy material. Then, using an old small (#1 or #2) brush, gently probe with the brush bristles. Try wiggle the coupler back and forth very gently. The coupler will slowly losen.