Product Description
This item is not a real item. It is just a placemat to provide some useful information about my 3D print designs and how finish them off,
I tend to offer only 2 types of 3D print materials.
For larger items normally only sintered nylon plastic - Natural Versatile Plastic, it used to be called WSF. The other is Smooth Fine Detail Plastic(used to be called FUD), mainly for smaller items.
Both have their advantages and disadvantages.
FUD is more like what resin casting, and requires similar methods of finishing and painting. There is a maximum xy area so is only available for smaller models. As with home 3D printing it is printed in the air so supports are created in the process, which can add a lot to the cost.
WSF on the other hand is printed in a bed of nylon dust, so everything is supported during printing. Again there is a maximum xy size, which easily covers most model railway scales. For finishing off, it is necessary to sand down the surface as the print process results in static and particles of the nylon dust are attracted to the still warm surface. If the model gets damp it appears to harden the plastic, possibly binding the structure.
I have found the following tips useful.
Firstly any area at risk of breakage, eg buffers, apply some cheap liquid superglue to the area. This appears to bind the weak areas of model.
Secondly, to smooth down the surface use non clogging sandpaper, often green in colour. It is not a quick process, but can be quite relaxing and satisfying. Think wood smoothing, not plastic kit construction.
Thirdly painting. Even though this is nylon, you can paint(or stain) using ANY water based paint. I use low cost emulsion paint sample pots. Available from most DIY stores. Most colours are available, and it is easy to mix paints to create those colours not available. Oddly British racing green/BR SR green is one of these colours you need to mix yourself.
The nylon plastic is cellular, so will absorbs a lot of liquid. I have tried spray paints but they just soak in and then take ages to dry.
The emulsion paint is matt, so to give a shine I tend to use DIY acrylic varnish, after adding transfers.
----
Now to finish off models such as coaches and wagons, I recommend creating a dummy chassis floor and attach supports for wheels, or bogies, then you can test this on track before fitting to coach or wagon. Fit this dummy chassis inside the 3D printed chassis of the coach or wagon.
For locos , don't tend to design for specific r2r chassis, partly because it can be difficult to obtain some, and manufacturers have a tendency to either change designs of withdraw them. Check drawings of the loco, if available or just use dimensions such as wheelbase and wheel size.
I hope this helps.
Finally if you want a model in a different scale or material, please ask.
----------------------------------------
more 3d printed models from Recreation21 here
http://www.rue-d-etropal.com/3D-printing/3d_printed_designs.htm
=======================================
I tend to offer only 2 types of 3D print materials.
For larger items normally only sintered nylon plastic - Natural Versatile Plastic, it used to be called WSF. The other is Smooth Fine Detail Plastic(used to be called FUD), mainly for smaller items.
Both have their advantages and disadvantages.
FUD is more like what resin casting, and requires similar methods of finishing and painting. There is a maximum xy area so is only available for smaller models. As with home 3D printing it is printed in the air so supports are created in the process, which can add a lot to the cost.
WSF on the other hand is printed in a bed of nylon dust, so everything is supported during printing. Again there is a maximum xy size, which easily covers most model railway scales. For finishing off, it is necessary to sand down the surface as the print process results in static and particles of the nylon dust are attracted to the still warm surface. If the model gets damp it appears to harden the plastic, possibly binding the structure.
I have found the following tips useful.
Firstly any area at risk of breakage, eg buffers, apply some cheap liquid superglue to the area. This appears to bind the weak areas of model.
Secondly, to smooth down the surface use non clogging sandpaper, often green in colour. It is not a quick process, but can be quite relaxing and satisfying. Think wood smoothing, not plastic kit construction.
Thirdly painting. Even though this is nylon, you can paint(or stain) using ANY water based paint. I use low cost emulsion paint sample pots. Available from most DIY stores. Most colours are available, and it is easy to mix paints to create those colours not available. Oddly British racing green/BR SR green is one of these colours you need to mix yourself.
The nylon plastic is cellular, so will absorbs a lot of liquid. I have tried spray paints but they just soak in and then take ages to dry.
The emulsion paint is matt, so to give a shine I tend to use DIY acrylic varnish, after adding transfers.
----
Now to finish off models such as coaches and wagons, I recommend creating a dummy chassis floor and attach supports for wheels, or bogies, then you can test this on track before fitting to coach or wagon. Fit this dummy chassis inside the 3D printed chassis of the coach or wagon.
For locos , don't tend to design for specific r2r chassis, partly because it can be difficult to obtain some, and manufacturers have a tendency to either change designs of withdraw them. Check drawings of the loco, if available or just use dimensions such as wheelbase and wheel size.
I hope this helps.
Finally if you want a model in a different scale or material, please ask.
----------------------------------------
more 3d printed models from Recreation21 here
http://www.rue-d-etropal.com/3D-printing/3d_printed_designs.htm
=======================================
