Adaptable 9' wb chassis

At 40mm (20') OHS, this N-gauge / 2mm FS wagon chassis may look a bit strange, but it comes in useful for those kits and projects where only the wagon body is sold, and you have to work out what chassis has the right wheelbase and fits under the body properly. All you need is one of these "variable length" chassis, which you saw to exactly the right length. You may well ask "What about the bufferbeam detail?", and there are various options. If the body kit includes its own bufferbeams, all you need to do with this chassis (apart from fit and fettle some wheels and add the brake rodding in the arrangement required) is to saw the ends off square to the right length, the same each end (almost certainly) to fit perfectly between them. On the other hand if the body has no bufferbeams and you don't have anything suitable in the spares box and can't make your own, you can saw the bufferbeams off this chassis, fit those to your model, and then saw the rest of the chassis to fit between them.  If you need to fit the bufferbeams around projecting stanchions on the body ends, think about filing into these bufferbeams in the right places before you saw them off, as you might be less prone to break them that way. The same goes if you want to shorten the bufferbeams to match the overall width at the solebars.
I expect most opportunities to use this kit will involve sawing between 3.5 and 4.5 mm off each end and fitting between the bufferbeams of a van or open model with moulded bufferbeams about 1 mm thick, making between 17'6" and 16'6" OHS. Before you saw, calculate carefully, double check, measure more than once, mark gently with a scalpel, measure the marks, and hold it up against the body kit for a sanity check. In fact, aim to leave it a bit too long as you can always file the last quarter of a mm each end and perfect the squareness in the process. The couplers included in this kit should slide into the grooves until they touch the backs of the bufferbeams, and they will need a little glue behind them (where you can scrape it off to get them back out if you have to). If you don't use rapido style couplers, try my NEM pockets that fit the same grooves, or fit something else in the flat space provided. If you keep the buffer shanks, drill carefully into the holes to fit Peco Parkside brass bufferheads, or glue tiny round bits of paper or plasticard over the ends. If you are going to cut the buffer shanks off and fit your own, e.g. cast metal ones, think about drilling the holes through to the back of the bufferbeams first to make locating holes to help you place the new ones.  
The first version of this kit had no buffer shanks or guide holes, and when I tried it out I decided they were worth adding, hence this new version. Message me if you would like to try this out with a different wheelbase such as 9'6",  10', 12' or whatever, or if you want several all the same length and fitting, in which case if you give me the details I will upload a variant of the model that's just right and will save you the trouble of cutting, filing and gluing. Minor modifications are not usually that much trouble to do.