GWR O30 Steel High Open 2mm:1ft / N-gauge

According to a well-known reference work on the subject, the Great Western Railway built 50 of these steel-bodied wagons in 1934. Their floors were wood, and the doors were lined inside with wood to prevent slipping when loading. Based on experience with the P22 hopper in frosted ultra detail plastic, the printed-in-situ wheels should free reasonably easily and run, and can be taken out and replaced with others if necessary. I'm hoping this works at least as well in frosted extreme detail. The photograph of the as-built wagon I worked from shows 8-spoke wheels, but I fancied using my GWR 6-hole discs. You will need to add brake levers made from fine plasticard strip or similar (or something from the spares box), couplers, a thin wire cross-shaft between the brake cranks, a coupling hook if you have room, paint, and transfers to suit. EXPERIENCE: in FXD this is pretty nice, but it takes care and patience to free the wheels and get the wax out of the axleboxes so that the wagon will roll. Good running will need a little weight under the floor as well. I will upload this again with the wheels separate, which should also help.

NOTE: At least one person buying these has queried the appearance of the doors. Because the inside is planked, light shines through on the unpainted model and makes it look like the whole door is planked. The outside surface of the doors is smooth (see the picture) and will look right when the model is painted.

ANOTHER NOTE: If you decide to replace the 3D printed wheels with something heavier and smoother-running, please check the effective point-to-point distance between the ends of the cones, because if some of the printed axle remained in the cone when you freed it, and probably even if it didn't, the chances are you will have to clean out a certain amount of grease a whiskers of plastic to get full length new axles in without over-bending the axleguards to get them it, which will break them. Use drill bits in the range 0.6mm to 0.9mm or whatever you find works. Turn them by hand, using finger pressure to support the axlebox against any pressure and torque from the drill bit. Do a bit at a time until the axle goes in. See if it turns freely, and if not, take it out and clean  a little tiny bit deeper. Repeat as required.