Adding Stones And Gems To Jewelry

Discussion in 'Jewelry' started by dfoley75, Sep 23, 2016.

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  1. dfoley75
    dfoley75 Well-Known Member
    Adding gems, crystals or other stones to my designs has been a long-term goal. I finally have gotten around to trying it. Please feel free to use this thread to share your experiences with this. I will share a few because I have a number of different things going right now.

    I designed this Amulet for another customer recently with a cabochon in the center. The prongs aren't doing much, as they were a bit too short (I also used glue to hold it in place). The prongs lost some height during polishing. How much height should I add to prongs to account for polishing?
    [​IMG]
     
  2. dfoley75
    dfoley75 Well-Known Member
    This is a plastic version of a Claddagh ring with a black Onyx gem. I should have the silver version soon:
    [​IMG]


    Mother and Child Knot with crystals/birthstones
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Motherhood Knot with cystals/birthstones:
    [​IMG]


    A customer found my Mother and Child Knot pendant and wants to re-mount a round-cut diamond from an old ring into the center of it. He wants the pendant to be platinum! I am working with a jeweler on that one.
     
    EvieL and Ontogenie like this.
  3. Daphne
    Daphne Well-Known Member
    I have been adding gemstones to my model since a few months. I designed my own prongs so that the setting can be done in less then 1 minute. Here is the result:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    steel bracelet.jpg
    il_570xN.904032822_kjz2.jpg
     
  4. dfoley75
    dfoley75 Well-Known Member
    I really like the ring and that last pendant @Daphne. Do you have to account for the prongs losing some height from polishing? What is the smallest gem you have worked with?
     
  5. Daphne
    Daphne Well-Known Member
    No, it doesn't matter with my design. The smallest I have tried is 3 mm, was not really happy with that. I prefer 4 and 5 mm stones. I also played around with cabuchon cuts:
    1.JPG
    2.JPG

    Aluminium prongs were not a succes, stone got out a few days later.
     
  6. Ontogenie
    Ontogenie Well-Known Member
    Following this thread with much interest. I have a customer who wants me to design an engagement ring for his girlfriend. I'm optimizing my sizing game at the moment.
     
  7. Daphne
    Daphne Well-Known Member
    I'm also working on that for a friend! But since I want to make sure the ring will be fine for years, I'm going to let the settings be done by a professional gold smith.
     
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  8. Ontogenie
    Ontogenie Well-Known Member
    I think that's a great idea, Daphne. I will probably run my design past a professional goldsmith as well before I even print it. My customer said he has someone in mind to do the setting. That will make this whole process a lot less worrisome!
     
  9. 104516_deleted
    104516_deleted Well-Known Member
    @nataliak did some great work with stone setting in the past and wrote a blog about it, but I can't seem to find that one.. Natalia do you still have that post where you used digital stones to create the perfect fit?
     
  10. dfoley75
    dfoley75 Well-Known Member
    Here is how that Onyx Claddagh Ring turned out:

    ring1.jpg

    ring2.jpg
     
  11. Daphne
    Daphne Well-Known Member
    That looks really pretty! How does the stone stays in its place?
     
  12. tblatt
    tblatt Member
    cad tie.png IMG_20141223_161641075.jpg cad tie.png

    I just designed the space for it, made a little groove so it would bend easier where I wanted, and pushed the prongs over once cast in silver.
     
  13. kaadesign
    kaadesign Well-Known Member
    Special Design,- very nice!
    What material is the black one on the sides?
     
  14. EvieL
    EvieL Well-Known Member
    I am loving this thread, setting my stones into a design is my ultimate goal too. All the designs showed case so far are beautiful! I have a lab created emerald bought a really long time ago with the goal to make my own design and set it but I am still not there yet. Just seeing all your designs are encouraging me on!
     
    1063516_deleted likes this.
  15. aiyaitsai
    aiyaitsai Member
    I'm told you want prongs to be "0.70mm past the girdle" for like a classically cut diamond.

    Sometimes I give it a little more just in case. A setter can always shave it down if need be.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2017
  16. aiyaitsai
    aiyaitsai Member
    Btw if anyone is in NYC- you can generally get a ring set + polished for like $10 - 20.
     
    DesignRosetta, debdeb and EvieL like this.
  17. Yeah this is a great design. Stone setting has always been a challenge for me. It's just hard to manage, like when my colleague tries scheduling our workforce at our jewellery workshop. Oh well, it's so nice to see that it's something that can be accomplished by us lonely mortals - ha. Thx!
     
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2019
  18. tblatt
    tblatt Member
    the side panels are just chemically blackened.
     
  19. Daphne_Lameris
    Daphne_Lameris Well-Known Member
    Another stone setting I did. The prongs were a bit too long.
    20170928_100458.jpg
     
    EvieL likes this.
  20. I 3d printed a steel piece of my logo that I design in 3d first. I design it pave set with 3mm stones to be set. and when I got it 3d printed it came out beautiful. my thing is when I put the diamonds ine the precut holes. I cant keep them in place from falling out. the beads will not move to hold the diamonds. I was wondering maybe because I got it printed in steel, and still is so tough. I try every stone setting tool to push the beads and they is not bulging. is brass and silver hard to push the beads over the stone like steel before I order it? or any advice how can I bead set my piece that's already printed pre-set?