Tommy_2Tall
Designs by Tommy_2Tall
I'm just a self-taught amateur with a few years experience of sporadic 3D modeling and animation.
Right now I'm just learning about the materials that Shapeways have to offer and also how to use Blender (3D modeling application).
When I've got those parts covered I have a long list of procuct ideas that I want to try out..
and that list just keeps getting longer as the days go by. :-D
Right now I'm just learning about the materials that Shapeways have to offer and also how to use Blender (3D modeling application).
When I've got those parts covered I have a long list of procuct ideas that I want to try out..
and that list just keeps getting longer as the days go by. :-D
We found 15 products by Tommy_2Tall
by
Tommy_2Tall
A slightly thicker version of my bobeche, intended for the silver printing/casting process.
Inner diameter: 23 mm
Thickness: approx 2mm, thinner at the outer edges.
Inner diameter: 23 mm
Thickness: approx 2mm, thinner at the outer edges.
by
Tommy_2Tall
Just some stuff that may or may not be useful here at home.
Basically just want to try out the ABS/White Glaze with something small and simple
Basically just want to try out the ABS/White Glaze with something small and simple
by
Tommy_2Tall
This is my second draft of a cardholder/wallet that can be attached to a belt or a shoulderstrap.
I've done a test-print of the first draft in White, Strong & Flexible (WSF) and it worked out very well.
A minor issue with a gap between the lid and the opening it goes into needed to be fixed and the model has been updated with that improved version of the lid.
I'm planning to make a modular version so that the springs and the lid can be made into separate objects.. possibly even separate front-plates objects.
That way you could print the main "box" in one material, and the springy parts in another material (any of the "Strong & Flexible" materials).
I've done a test-print of the first draft in White, Strong & Flexible (WSF) and it worked out very well.
A minor issue with a gap between the lid and the opening it goes into needed to be fixed and the model has been updated with that improved version of the lid.
I'm planning to make a modular version so that the springs and the lid can be made into separate objects.. possibly even separate front-plates objects.
That way you could print the main "box" in one material, and the springy parts in another material (any of the "Strong & Flexible" materials).
by
Tommy_2Tall
A simple tealight/candlestick holder for Tim's christening.
Initially designed for glossy white glass but it turned out too expensive so I added some color to it.
Hopefully the "full colour sandstone" material can cope with the heat from a real tealight.
Otherwise it's probably best suited for LED tealights.
Initially designed for glossy white glass but it turned out too expensive so I added some color to it.
Hopefully the "full colour sandstone" material can cope with the heat from a real tealight.
Otherwise it's probably best suited for LED tealights.
by
Tommy_2Tall
Each of these 4 LED-holders can hold four 5mm LED's and one 3mm LED (in the center hole).
They were designed to fit inside a "standard" PET-bottle cap (using a Coca-Cola bottle as reference) and "hide" within the cap so that it doesn't come down below the edge of the cap.
They should fit into any bottle/tube that has an inner diameter of 20mm inner diameter and an outer diameter of approximately 25mm.
There is approximately 7mm clearance between the top of the bottom plate and the top of the ring.
This should make loads of room for resistors and/or LED-driver circuitry.
The LED holes were designed with an diameter of 5.0mm and the "safety springs" have a diameter of approximately 4.9mm in relaxed state.
I have noticed that some LED-manufacturers have a +- 0.25mm tolerance on their LEDs.
I will try these LED-holder and update the model with more clearance if that seems necessary.
I have bundled 4 LED holders into the model because if they were ordered one by one the startup cost would be more than the actual material cost with certain materials.
Some materials are restricted due to wallthickness and the need for atleast some degree of flexibility in the "springs". Alumide might be too stiff and fragile but I'll leave it up to you to decide.
They were designed to fit inside a "standard" PET-bottle cap (using a Coca-Cola bottle as reference) and "hide" within the cap so that it doesn't come down below the edge of the cap.
They should fit into any bottle/tube that has an inner diameter of 20mm inner diameter and an outer diameter of approximately 25mm.
There is approximately 7mm clearance between the top of the bottom plate and the top of the ring.
This should make loads of room for resistors and/or LED-driver circuitry.
The LED holes were designed with an diameter of 5.0mm and the "safety springs" have a diameter of approximately 4.9mm in relaxed state.
I have noticed that some LED-manufacturers have a +- 0.25mm tolerance on their LEDs.
I will try these LED-holder and update the model with more clearance if that seems necessary.
I have bundled 4 LED holders into the model because if they were ordered one by one the startup cost would be more than the actual material cost with certain materials.
Some materials are restricted due to wallthickness and the need for atleast some degree of flexibility in the "springs". Alumide might be too stiff and fragile but I'll leave it up to you to decide.
by
Tommy_2Tall
A hollowed out ring pendant with an intentionally bumpy spiral pattern on the outside.
Two 3x4mm holes that go straight through for a chain/line or other forms of mounting.
This version has a thinner wall, saving 0.5 cm3 of material.
I'm working on more models like this (single hole mounting, other patterns, even more optimised wallthickness).
Two 3x4mm holes that go straight through for a chain/line or other forms of mounting.
This version has a thinner wall, saving 0.5 cm3 of material.
I'm working on more models like this (single hole mounting, other patterns, even more optimised wallthickness).
by
Tommy_2Tall
A gardenhose connector built into a bottle-cap.
I just wanted to try this out.
The usage is probably very limited (customized garden sprinklers/showerheads from PET-bottles).
I know that this adapter can be made with an actual gardenhose connector and some hotglue (or better yet, plumbing adapters) so it gets attached to an existing bottle cap but I just want to try this out and decided to make it available for order.
It is an UNTESTED PROTOTYPE at this point but I think I've got it all right at the first go.
I'm a little worried that the printed material might not be strong enough for the thread.
It might break when the cap is screwed in too tight.
The PET bottles should have a thread with approx. 25mm outer diameter and 3mm pitch (3mm between each "lap") to be compatible with this adapter.
I used a "standard"(/Coca-Cola Company) PET bottle as my design reference since a lot of companies seem to use that same design.
I just wanted to try this out.
The usage is probably very limited (customized garden sprinklers/showerheads from PET-bottles).
I know that this adapter can be made with an actual gardenhose connector and some hotglue (or better yet, plumbing adapters) so it gets attached to an existing bottle cap but I just want to try this out and decided to make it available for order.
It is an UNTESTED PROTOTYPE at this point but I think I've got it all right at the first go.
I'm a little worried that the printed material might not be strong enough for the thread.
It might break when the cap is screwed in too tight.
The PET bottles should have a thread with approx. 25mm outer diameter and 3mm pitch (3mm between each "lap") to be compatible with this adapter.
I used a "standard"(/Coca-Cola Company) PET bottle as my design reference since a lot of companies seem to use that same design.
by
Tommy_2Tall
Each of these 4 LED-holders can hold four 5mm LED's and one 3mm LED (in the center hole).
They were designed to fit inside a "Red Bull Energy Shot" PET bottle cap and "hide" within the cap so that it doesn't come down below the edge of the cap.
They should fit into any bottle/tube that has an inner diameter of 25mm inner diameter and an outer diameter of approximately 29mm.
There is approximately 7mm clearance between the top of the bottom plate and the top of the ring.
This should make loads of room for resistors and/or LED-driver circuitry.
The LED holes were designed with an diameter of 5.0mm and the "safety springs" have a diameter of approximately 4.9mm in relaxed state.
I have noticed that some LED-manufacturers have a +- 0.25mm tolerance on their LEDs.
I will try these LED-holder and update the model with more clearance if that seems necessary.
I have bundled 4 LED holders into the model because if they were ordered one by one the startup cost would be more than the actual material cost with certain materials.
Some materials are restricted due to wallthickness and the need for atleast some degree of flexibility in the "springs". Alumide might be too stiff and fragile but I'll leave it up to you to decide.
They were designed to fit inside a "Red Bull Energy Shot" PET bottle cap and "hide" within the cap so that it doesn't come down below the edge of the cap.
They should fit into any bottle/tube that has an inner diameter of 25mm inner diameter and an outer diameter of approximately 29mm.
There is approximately 7mm clearance between the top of the bottom plate and the top of the ring.
This should make loads of room for resistors and/or LED-driver circuitry.
The LED holes were designed with an diameter of 5.0mm and the "safety springs" have a diameter of approximately 4.9mm in relaxed state.
I have noticed that some LED-manufacturers have a +- 0.25mm tolerance on their LEDs.
I will try these LED-holder and update the model with more clearance if that seems necessary.
I have bundled 4 LED holders into the model because if they were ordered one by one the startup cost would be more than the actual material cost with certain materials.
Some materials are restricted due to wallthickness and the need for atleast some degree of flexibility in the "springs". Alumide might be too stiff and fragile but I'll leave it up to you to decide.
by
Tommy_2Tall
Yet another simple ring-pendant.. I seem to come back to that basic idea all the time :-)
Each of the rings (both the big one and the smaller ones) have a cross-section diameter of approx. 2.01 mm.
Each of the rings (both the big one and the smaller ones) have a cross-section diameter of approx. 2.01 mm.
by
Tommy_2Tall
Just a simple bobeche (candle cuff) that collects the molten wax from a candle.
Inner diameter: 24 mm
Max thickness: ~2mm
Inner diameter: 24 mm
Max thickness: ~2mm
by
Tommy_2Tall
Yet another simple ring-pendant.. I seem to come back to that basic idea all the time :-)
Each of the rings (both the big one and the smaller ones) have a cross-section diameter of approx. 2.01 mm.
Each of the rings (both the big one and the smaller ones) have a cross-section diameter of approx. 2.01 mm.
by
Tommy_2Tall
A hollowed out ring pendant with an intentionally bumpy spiral pattern on the outside.
Two 3x4mm holes that go straight through for a chain/line or other forms of mounting.
I'm working on more models like this (single hole mounting, other patterns, optimised wallthickness).
Two 3x4mm holes that go straight through for a chain/line or other forms of mounting.
I'm working on more models like this (single hole mounting, other patterns, optimised wallthickness).
by
Tommy_2Tall
Yet another simple ring-pendant.. I seem to come back to that basic idea all the time :-)
Each of the rings (both the big one and the smaller ones) have a cross-section diameter of approx. 3.01 mm.
Each of the rings (both the big one and the smaller ones) have a cross-section diameter of approx. 3.01 mm.
by
Tommy_2Tall
This pendant started out just like my others; a hollowed out torus("donut") with some squiggly pattern on the outside.
Cut it in half and added a ring on the back since my girlfriend thought that made more sense with this particular design.
The ring/hole at the back is approx. 3x4mm so a normal necklace chain should go through but it can just as easily be mounted with a earring hook.
Cut it in half and added a ring on the back since my girlfriend thought that made more sense with this particular design.
The ring/hole at the back is approx. 3x4mm so a normal necklace chain should go through but it can just as easily be mounted with a earring hook.
by
Tommy_2Tall
Yet another simple ring-pendant.. I seem to come back to that basic idea all the time :-)
Each of the rings (both the big one and the smaller ones) have a cross-section diameter of approx. 1.01 mm.
Each of the rings (both the big one and the smaller ones) have a cross-section diameter of approx. 1.01 mm.
Shop Details
Shop Sections
