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hunterseeker5
This is an installation aid which helps with the installation of the R-hop. This version contains a guide to aid in rod centering during sanding, and has a lip at the edge of the U to retain the R-hop.
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hunterseeker5
Airsoft outer barrels have a notoriously sloppy fit with inner barrels. Your accuracy is directly tied to how stable your accuracy components are. Pair this with the o-ring mod for an absolute zero wobble ROCK SOLID barrel for maximum accuracy. Simply drive this wedge between your inner and outer barrel at you rifle's muzzle, trim the excess, and replace your flash hider. This is one of the few mods out there which you can really see huge improvement right away with very little work. This is an excellent companion product for the R-hop.
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hunterseeker5
This ring is meant to replace the old, and quite frankly useless, hop stabilization ring we've all come to know and love. It fits snugly over your barrel and wedges itself just inside the front of your hop unit vastly increasing stability between the hop unit and the barrel. The O-ring mod further enhances the effect by improving seating of the ring and further stabilizing your barrel. Its a small idea that fixes a big problem. Get the most out of your gun, don't let your accuracy components flop around. This is a 5 pack of self adjusting rings which fit all ~8.6mm OD (standard) airsoft barrels.
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hunterseeker5
This is an installation aid which helps with the installation of the R-hop. This product has been vetted and found to be highly effective. Instructions for use are on my website: https://sites.google.com/site/hsarmory/
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hunterseeker5
The LTH V4 was workable but at HSA we practice CQI (shamelessly stolen from Spyderco) so V5 has been rolled out. This version has not yet been tested.
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hunterseeker5
This kit allows your KJW M700 to run AEG barrels and buckings, and also allows use of the R and ER-hop. Please note the video was not shot by HSA. THIS MODEL HAS BEEN TESTED.
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hunterseeker5
This is an installation aid which helps with the installation of the R-hop. This product has been vetted and found to be highly effective. Instructions for use are on my website: https://sites.google.com/site/hsarmory/ (sandpaper retention rod version pictured)
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hunterseeker5
These R-hop shims cover 90 degrees of the the circumference and allow even pressure both the length and width of the R-hop. (135 degree ER-hop shims pictured)
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hunterseeker5
This ring is meant to replace the old, and quite frankly useless, hop stabilization ring we've all come to know and love. It fits snugly over your barrel and wedges itself just inside the front of your hop unit vastly increasing stability between the hop unit and the barrel. The O-ring mod further enhances the effect by improving seating of the ring and further stabilizing your barrel. Its a small idea that fixes a big problem. Get the most out of your gun, don't let your accuracy components flop around.
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hunterseeker5
These R-hop shims cover 135 degrees of the the circumference and allow even pressure both the length and width of the R-hop. (135 degree ER-hop shims pictured)
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hunterseeker5
This is a sector chip designed to extend air nozzle retraction. It was specifically designed for use with SHS gears, although it can be modified to work with a variety of other gears. In its current configuration it provides maximum retraction time, and in higher speed guns may need to be trimmed down to facilitate airseal. This was intended to be used with aspherical rounds to facilitate easy chambering in semi auto.
This model has markings on the far side as a reference point for shortening it. This project was done in collaboration with Clandestine Airsoft.
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hunterseeker5
This the second revision of the fix for the M249 hop unit. The replacement wheel is designed to allow maximum travel, and the replacement nub is generous. Travel is extended to a full 2mm. The replacement nub has markings every .5mm along its length. Simply drop the new nub into the chamber concave down and aligned, cut off AT MINIMUM 2mm above where it protrudes (better to cut higher and test), install the new adjustment ring, and test.
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hunterseeker5
This is the LTH or Level Travel Hop. Its been a long time in the works, and still hasn't exited testing. Why make it available then? Basically I want feedback, and I want to get this in the public domain already. Its still very much a work in progress, but those adventurous individuals who want to tinker will at the very least have a better base to start tinkering with than a standard M4 hop. This design may be the the "final" gen before its endorsed. (I can dream right?) This version has been tested and functions as desired, however a number of minor adjustments were made which became the V5.
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hunterseeker5
These ER-hop shims cover 90 degrees of the the circumference and allow even pressure both the length and width of the ER-hop. (135 degree ER-hop shims pictured)
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hunterseeker5
These are inner barrel supports for the KJW M700. They are intended to stabilize your inner barrel for greater accuracy, and to function with the upcoming M700 EZ-LRB kit.
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hunterseeker5
These ER-hop shims cover 135 degrees of the the circumference and allow even pressure both the length and width of the ER-hop.
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hunterseeker5
This is a universal 14mm thread adapter. It will connect any two 1.0 pitch 14mm threads together. That means 14mm CCW to 14mm CW, 14mm CW to 14mm CCW, or even 14mm CCW to 14mm CCW if you so desired. It does this by having two parallel threads, one CW and one CCW, cut into both the male and female ends. Credit to Specs159 for this design and application.
Please note that in STAINLESS STEEL this model has NOT yet been tested, but HAS BEEN TESTED and functions extremely well in White Strong and Flexible and Black Strong and Flexible.
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hunterseeker5
This is a quick and easy LRB kit designed for the L96. It was tested in an APS2/Maruzen spec L96 made by UTG. Feedback is welcome.
*NOTE* You want far less vertical travel on the barrel than this is capable of creating. You only want a mm or two in most cases.
To install remove the end-cap from your barrel. Confirm that your mid barrel spacer is at the rear third of your outer barrel. Confirm that your barrel is able to safely flex the desired amount (aluminum barrels preferred for this). Insert the primary wedge to create the desired amount of bend and left/right drift compensation. Add a drop of CA to the primary wedge to assure it doesn't move. Insert the counter wedge if desired to further secure the barrel. Add a drop of CA to secure it as well. Trim excess from the wedges and slide the muzzle brake over the end of the barrel. Add a drop of CA to the muzzle brake if desired to lock it in place.
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hunterseeker5
This is a super easy LRB conversion kit for your M700. *NOTE* You want far less vertical travel on the barrel than this is capable of creating. You only want a mm or two in most cases. To install remove the end-cap from your barrel. Confirm that your mid barrel spacer is at the rear third of your outer barrel. Confirm that your barrel is able to safely flex the desired amount (aluminum barrels preferred for this). Insert the primary wedge to create the desired amount of bend and left/right drift compensation. Add a drop of CA to the primary wedge to assure it doesn't move. Insert the counter wedge if desired to further secure the barrel. Add a drop of CA to secure it as well. Trim excess from the wedges and slide the muzzle brake over the end of the barrel. Add a drop of CA to the muzzle brake if desired to lock it in place.
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hunterseeker5
This is an upgrade hop arm for the VSR-10/Bar-10 designed to work with the M-nub and EM-nub. This model uses a narrow adjustment slot for increased range of adjustment. Minor modification to the follower may be required.
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hunterseeker5
This is a super easy LRB conversion kit for your BAR10. It should also function on the VSR, but has not been tested on it explicitly. *NOTE* You want far less vertical travel on the barrel than this is capable of creating. You only want a mm or two in most cases. To install remove the end-cap from your barrel. Confirm that your mid barrel spacer is at the rear third of your outer barrel. Confirm that your barrel is able to safely flex the desired amount (aluminum barrels preferred for this). Insert the primary wedge to create the desired amount of bend and left/right drift compensation. Add a drop of CA to the primary wedge to assure it doesn't move. Insert the counter wedge if desired to further secure the barrel. Add a drop of CA to secure it as well. Trim excess from the wedges and slide the muzzle brake over the end of the barrel. Add a drop of CA to the muzzle brake if desired to lock it in place.
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hunterseeker5
THIS MODEL IS UNTESTED.
This is a modification for the LTH which allows you to use 2 grub screws to adjust the hop nub trolley instead of using the arm and wheel system. This piece is installed with the two pins seen in the image. It requires two 2mm holes to be drilled 5mm apart through the walls of the LTH (does not affect functionality) to accommodate the pins. It also requires you thread the holes and install two grub screws of your choice.
What is included in this kit? Just the grub screw holding arm, two pins, and a rear spacer which replaces the wheel and clip that gives the LTH the correct distance from your GB.
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hunterseeker5
This is a replacement/upgrade front cap for the carbon fiber MOCK suppressor project. It has been tested in Black Strong & Flexible, but for people looking to experiment it is also available in stainless steel. STEEL IS UNTESTED FOR THIS MODEL.
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hunterseeker5
An aspherical round design based off the last round of feedback and with fins optimized to function in the TK-twist barrel, although it will function in smooth-bore barrels as well. THIS ROUND IS EXPERIMENTAL.
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hunterseeker5
This is a quick and easy LRB kit designed for the L96. It was tested in an APS2/Maruzen spec L96 made by UTG. Feedback is welcome.
*NOTE* You want far less vertical travel on the barrel than this is capable of creating. You only want a mm or two in most cases.
To install remove the end-cap from your barrel. Confirm that your mid barrel spacer is at the rear third of your outer barrel. Confirm that your barrel is able to safely flex the desired amount (aluminum barrels preferred for this). Insert the primary wedge to create the desired amount of bend and left/right drift compensation. Add a drop of CA to the primary wedge to assure it doesn't move. Insert the counter wedge if desired to further secure the barrel. Add a drop of CA to secure it as well. Trim excess from the wedges and slide the muzzle brake over the end of the barrel. Add a drop of CA to the muzzle brake if desired to lock it in place.
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hunterseeker5
This is an EZ-LRB™ kit for hollow MOCK suppressors with a 1.25" ID. This is most notably designed to apply to the carbon fiber mock suppressor project recently completed, but will work in any 1.25 inch ID or similar suppressor. Please note this is best used with flexible aluminum barrels, as opposed to steel or brass barrels which are more likely to deform permanently and are more rigid. Also it is recommended that at minimum 40% of the barrel is involved in the arc.
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hunterseeker5
This hop unit was designed to allow easy manual chambering of aspherical rounds, specialty rounds, and for nozzle-bucking compression testing in the M4. This is the long cutout version.
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hunterseeker5
These bore groove cutters can be applied in a variety of ways to produce a variety of experimental effects. ---
Perhaps the most promising is outlined in this product's image, whereby twin grooves applied to the base of the bore would provide upward force against the bb further enhancing the existing bore dynamic of the bb riding on the ceiling. ---
Alternate application of this can be used for single ceiling grooves, or up to six evenly spaced full length or partial length (crown) bore grooves. When cutting less than three grooves at a time it is advisable to apply abrasive to only the panels intended to cut. ---
The anti-rotation jig on this model contains an alignment ridge which fits into the slot at the base of most barrels thus easily aligning it with vertical. Removal of this ridge, or the purchase of the separate standard alignment jig, will be necessary to use the alignment jig at the muzzle end of the barrel or on barrels without an external alignment channel. ---
For rapid cutting it is possible to apply a high viscosity CA to the desired panels, and then dip them in a coarse abrasive. This allows radically faster cutting than traditional non-bonded abrasives. ---
THIS GEN OF THE PRODUCT HAS NOT YET BEEN TESTED. THE CONCEPTS HEREIN ARE PURELY EXPERIMENTAL.
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hunterseeker5
This is an upgrade hop arm for the VSR-10/Bar-10 designed to work with no nub. This model uses a narrow adjustment slot for increased range of adjustment. Minor modification to the follower may be required.
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hunterseeker5
An aspherical round design based off the last round of feedback and with fins optimized to function in the TK-twist barrel, although it will function in smooth-bore barrels as well. THIS ROUND IS EXPERIMENTAL.
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hunterseeker5
This arose out of discussions regarding the removal of more stubborn dirt and contaminants from the bore as part of the cleaning process. Rather than merely smearing in and dragging along contaminants, this attempts to scrape off and push ahead things which would not normally be removed easily. This in particular came up as a subject of discussion when a user was having difficulty with a "waxy" lapping compound becoming adhered to the bore.
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hunterseeker5
This is a super easy LRB conversion kit for your G&G L96. *NOTE* You want far less vertical travel on the barrel than this is capable of creating. You only want a mm or two in most cases. To install remove the end-cap from your barrel. Confirm that your mid barrel spacer is at the rear third of your outer barrel. Confirm that your barrel is able to safely flex the desired amount (aluminum barrels preferred for this). Insert the primary wedge to create the desired amount of bend and left/right drift compensation. Add a drop of CA to the primary wedge to assure it doesn't move. Insert the counter wedge if desired to further secure the barrel. Add a drop of CA to secure it as well. Trim excess from the wedges and slide the muzzle brake over the end of the barrel. Add a drop of CA to the muzzle brake if desired to lock it in place.
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hunterseeker5
This is a top rail, intended to align with the top of a flat top M4 receiver, for the Carbon Fiber handguards/shrouds.
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hunterseeker5
The ASD has been a long time in coming. For years I've tilted my gun to hook bbs and make otherwise impossible shots. Problem was you could never get as much hook as you wanted, and messing with your adjustment wheel is a PITA when you spent so much time getting your hop set just right. I wanted a muzzle attached hop unit basically. Then when playing with PB one day I came across the APEX barrel system. I liked the idea, but wasn't a huge fan of their execution. Crude adjustment, limited range of rotation, short "kicker," and worst of all it was only for paintball guns. So began the experiments which have lead to this working prototype. More videos and info to follow. Short setup guide: the design is self explanatory, but apparently some people don't like to problem solve. The short version is: -Test fit everything before assembly on your gun. -Put the smaller adjustment ring over your outer barrel, thread the ratchet onto your outer barrel. -Install the kicker pivot into the central body -slip the outer adjustment ring over the central body - set this against the ratchet on your muzzle, and pull the smaller adjustment ring up over the ratchet and bayonet it onto the main body -Slip the tuning fork through the top of the kicker, slip it in its channel on the outer adjustment ring, and then press its pin through. -Crimp the end of the pin slightly for a more permanent install. -Add some sort of thin rubber mat to the face of the kicker to increase friction and therefore applied spin.
