Discover » Maker/DIY
by
s_f_x
Update: I am currently working on an updated version, which is more robust and uses a more conventional 3-axis design (one servo per axis). I will leave this model available for spare parts. The new model is currently being tested and should be available soon.
This is a 3-axis gyro-stabilsation gimbal for the GoPro HD Hero camera. Intended use is for aerial video and first-person view (FPV) flying.
(Picture shows all the parts - camera is not included, and this is model here is only the back cage. Check the 3D model to see it. For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. You will also need 3x MKS470 servos, and a 16mm x 8mm ball bearing, not shown)
Video demonstration:
Assembly and servo test
Preliminary Gyro stabilisation test
Current status:
This is still work in progress - the current version has been slightly improved from the version in the video (I strengthened some of the elastic parts and improved the balancing). The gyro control board is my own design and currently not available yet. I will post an update once it is. The IMU is my design as well, and is available here.
You are welcome to order this design now, but be aware that it's still somewhat "beta". Whatever you do with it is entirely your own risk and responsibility, I unfortunately cannot make any claims towards its usefulness, stability or safety...
I would recommend, before you put this on a flying contraption, consider using a safety string to attach the camera to the plane somehow. GoPro cameras are very robust inside their waterproof case, but not quite so robust without that protection. They don't like crashing into the ground (and trust me, I know - as is probably obvious from the picture of my camera... in all fairness, it did mostly survive...)
Assembly instructions
For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. The bearing at the top is a 16mm outer, 8mm inner diameter ball bearing, available from many places. Hobbyking sells those as well.
I will possibly modify the mounting bracket in the future and also offer one with a smaller bearing... this one is total overkill! :)
The servos that will fit are the MKS DS470 (available e.g. from Hobbyking). They do have a little play, but they are very smooth and by far the fastest servo I've seen in that size and price class. I'm still on the lookout for different servos that might be a bit smoother.
Assembly:
1) Press the servos onto the mounting bracket and the flexible arms of the back cage. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the printed piece onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
Remove the servos again after this step.
2) Mount the 3 servos on the servo mounting frame. Start with the yaw servo (the vertical one in the middle).The yaw servo crown has to face downwards (might be a bit fiddly). Make sure the crown of the yaw servo is aligned with the little stub axle on the opposite side. The two roll/pitch servos have to be inserted so that the crown faces the camera (towards the flat side of the mounting arm).
3) Press the mounting bracket onto the yaw servo crown, and put in the screw to hold it in place. On the opposite side, press in the 16mm/8mm ball bearing.
4) Carefully push the disk-shaped closure knob into the cylinder at the top of the camera back cage. You might need to rotate it a bit to ease it into place
5) Push the flexible arms of the back cage onto the two roll/pitch servos, and fix with screws.
-- Update: Seems the MKS has too much gain for the yaw axis, and tends to oscillate a bit with all that weight swinging around. They are fine for the Pitch/Roll arms. I'm still looking for a small servo with high speed, smoothness and no (or little) play... Suggestions are of course welcome!!
-- The servos are still a very tight fit into the control arms and the bracket. I already made it a bit larger, but still not enough. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the arms onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
This is a 3-axis gyro-stabilsation gimbal for the GoPro HD Hero camera. Intended use is for aerial video and first-person view (FPV) flying.
(Picture shows all the parts - camera is not included, and this is model here is only the back cage. Check the 3D model to see it. For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. You will also need 3x MKS470 servos, and a 16mm x 8mm ball bearing, not shown)
Video demonstration:
Assembly and servo test
Preliminary Gyro stabilisation test
Current status:
This is still work in progress - the current version has been slightly improved from the version in the video (I strengthened some of the elastic parts and improved the balancing). The gyro control board is my own design and currently not available yet. I will post an update once it is. The IMU is my design as well, and is available here.
You are welcome to order this design now, but be aware that it's still somewhat "beta". Whatever you do with it is entirely your own risk and responsibility, I unfortunately cannot make any claims towards its usefulness, stability or safety...
I would recommend, before you put this on a flying contraption, consider using a safety string to attach the camera to the plane somehow. GoPro cameras are very robust inside their waterproof case, but not quite so robust without that protection. They don't like crashing into the ground (and trust me, I know - as is probably obvious from the picture of my camera... in all fairness, it did mostly survive...)
Assembly instructions
For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. The bearing at the top is a 16mm outer, 8mm inner diameter ball bearing, available from many places. Hobbyking sells those as well.
I will possibly modify the mounting bracket in the future and also offer one with a smaller bearing... this one is total overkill! :)
The servos that will fit are the MKS DS470 (available e.g. from Hobbyking). They do have a little play, but they are very smooth and by far the fastest servo I've seen in that size and price class. I'm still on the lookout for different servos that might be a bit smoother.
Assembly:
1) Press the servos onto the mounting bracket and the flexible arms of the back cage. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the printed piece onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
Remove the servos again after this step.
2) Mount the 3 servos on the servo mounting frame. Start with the yaw servo (the vertical one in the middle).The yaw servo crown has to face downwards (might be a bit fiddly). Make sure the crown of the yaw servo is aligned with the little stub axle on the opposite side. The two roll/pitch servos have to be inserted so that the crown faces the camera (towards the flat side of the mounting arm).
3) Press the mounting bracket onto the yaw servo crown, and put in the screw to hold it in place. On the opposite side, press in the 16mm/8mm ball bearing.
4) Carefully push the disk-shaped closure knob into the cylinder at the top of the camera back cage. You might need to rotate it a bit to ease it into place
5) Push the flexible arms of the back cage onto the two roll/pitch servos, and fix with screws.
-- Update: Seems the MKS has too much gain for the yaw axis, and tends to oscillate a bit with all that weight swinging around. They are fine for the Pitch/Roll arms. I'm still looking for a small servo with high speed, smoothness and no (or little) play... Suggestions are of course welcome!!
-- The servos are still a very tight fit into the control arms and the bracket. I already made it a bit larger, but still not enough. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the arms onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
by
TheoJansen
The first public evolution of the Animaris Geneticus Parvus, #5. Featuring a fully working Theo Jansen mechanism as used in his work "the Rhinoceros". The mechanism is printed assembled, and will work without further assembly right after birth from the printer.
Also see our new Propeller Propulsion add-on, to have your Strandbeest walk autonomously!
A few tips to consider:
- After birth there might be a little powder left in some joints, or it might not go supersmooth. This will fix itself after the animal has a little bit of practice!
- Some surfaces work better than others. The legs require a little friction, and a flat surface. So for example: A rough table or floor, thin flat carpeting, or a thin rubber sheet.
- The best way to push it is by its nameplate. Do not push down, but forward
Also see our new Propeller Propulsion add-on, to have your Strandbeest walk autonomously!
A few tips to consider:
- After birth there might be a little powder left in some joints, or it might not go supersmooth. This will fix itself after the animal has a little bit of practice!
- Some surfaces work better than others. The legs require a little friction, and a flat surface. So for example: A rough table or floor, thin flat carpeting, or a thin rubber sheet.
- The best way to push it is by its nameplate. Do not push down, but forward
by
jes1111
This is the quick-release clip for the OpenPilot CopterControl and CC3D cases. You also need the bottom part and the top part for the board of your choice. Note that you can order multiple clips to enable easy transfer of a board between different frames. More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case and http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CC3D+Case
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CC3D complete set?
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by
jes1111
This is the bottom part of the OpenPilot CopterControl CC3D case. You also need the top part (CC3DCase upper) and (optionally) the base clip (Case base 1 v1). Note that this case is for the CC3D only. The base clip is common to both CC and CC3D versions.
More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case and http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CC3D+Case
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More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case and http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CC3D+Case
CC3D complete set?
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by
jes1111
This is the top part of the OpenPilot CopterControl CC3D case. You also need the bottom part (CC3D Case lower) and (optionally) the base clip (Case base 1 v1).
Note that this case is for the CC3D only. The base clip is common to both CC and CC3D versions.
More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case and http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CC3D+Case
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Note that this case is for the CC3D only. The base clip is common to both CC and CC3D versions.
More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case and http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CC3D+Case
CC3D complete set?
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by
Pazu
Working centrifugal compressor.
Designed to fit standard Mabuchi 130 motors.
Printed and tested.
Upon receiving the item, you'll need to use a 1.8mm drill bit to drill out the center hole. This is due to limitation of the printing process that may not allow the shaft of the motor to be inserted.
Designed to fit standard Mabuchi 130 motors.
Printed and tested.
Upon receiving the item, you'll need to use a 1.8mm drill bit to drill out the center hole. This is due to limitation of the printing process that may not allow the shaft of the motor to be inserted.
by
susan-parker
Over 100 latches ordered in the last 12 months!
Replacement stainless-steel upgrade / repair latch part for the Panasonic SD253 seed / nut dispenser (see pictures).
Easy to fit with a cross head screwdriver.
1. Remove dispenser from lid (it just pops out).
2. Wash?
3. Remove old latch part by undoing the two cross head screws and lifting out U bracket.
4. Rescue the small spring which keeps the latch engaged.
5. This spring has one end that narrows down slightly. Hold the very end of this with tweezers or needle point pliers and then wrap the spring onto the cross (a tooth pick or a match end is handy for this).
6. Place new latch in position, add bracket and resecure with the two screws.
7. Make bread.
Any help / comments please get in touch.
Replacement stainless-steel upgrade / repair latch part for the Panasonic SD253 seed / nut dispenser (see pictures).
Easy to fit with a cross head screwdriver.
1. Remove dispenser from lid (it just pops out).
2. Wash?
3. Remove old latch part by undoing the two cross head screws and lifting out U bracket.
4. Rescue the small spring which keeps the latch engaged.
5. This spring has one end that narrows down slightly. Hold the very end of this with tweezers or needle point pliers and then wrap the spring onto the cross (a tooth pick or a match end is handy for this).
6. Place new latch in position, add bracket and resecure with the two screws.
7. Make bread.
Any help / comments please get in touch.
by
mkassner
This is the PUPIL eye-tracking headset. It is part of the PUPIL project on code.google.com/p/pupil. This is the second tested public release of the hardware. Revision 012.
(As material we have tested all SLS-nylon versions from shapeways - they call it strong and flexible. We recommend white polished or black.
by
barbecuesteve
This adapter holds your Apple "MagSafe to MagSafe 2 Adapter" snugly and hooks to your power adapter's cord. For that power adapter that is used to serve both old and new Macs!
by
eclg
These replace old plastic cable guides that are commonly missing on old Cannondales. By gluing the posts on the inside of the holes you don't run the risk of ripping the paint from the frame like you do if you just glue on old guides that are missing their posts. My suggestion is to turn the frame upside down and put a generous drop of glue inside each of the holes - then insert the cable guides and allow the glue to dry with the frame upside down so that the glue stays puddled around the cable guide's posts. If you have bits of plastic from the old cable guides rattling around the top tube like my friend did, drip a good puddle of glue into the top tube and shake it around until the bits get stuck in the glue.
