Trumpet

Hi. I had a real blast learning how to make this trumpet. It doesn't yet have the pinky hold for the top of the trumpet or the sliders, Also the Pipes are made to be straighter than a real trumpet. Since I didn't want the trumpet blasting right away, it's got a built in mute. Actually, I tried to make the flare of horn hollowed out but Haven't learned how to do that yet.

I tried using Lathe tool in Lightwaver Modeler from newtek to make the horn flare hollow, and then hand sewing it together with make polygon tool to the body of trumpet. (after clearing out muted trumpet flare) it's still muted.

Still shapeways? auto muted 3d picture of being a trumpet.

Anyhow, hope you guys love this trumpet. It's my first attempt at making a miniature musical instrument.

Any ideas or modeling advice is welcome for this is my first year modeling out of my own free time. And it was my first year that I was actually trying and willing to make a 3d miniature through use of these nerdy and geeky and what was once the edge of technological envelope pushing tools. But it's been useful. Their lighting (newtek) was actually much nicer looking using VPR earlier and now the lighting isn't showing. But here is my model.

Great work!

For some added inspiration, heres a couple of painted WSF baritone horns I made

For the Polished WSF horn on the right, I used 2 coats of Tamiya Fine Surface printer followed by 2 coats of Humbrol Silver Acrylic, both are spray cans. The one on the left is plain WSF and dipped in diluted silver artists acrylic.

I also made a Flugel Horn, see my Musical Instruments write up in the It Arrived section.

I don't know the software you're using, but if you can lathe the outside of the flare, you should be able to do the same to the inside. For the flare on my horns, I created the sidewall profile and then spun the profile to create a solid shape. The pipework was done using a extrusion path and increasing the scale of the tube profile (a ring) along the path to match the flared part.

For an actual 3D printed version of your trumpet, be careful about the size of the valve stems depending on the scale.

If you need any pointers, please feel free to ask.

Paul

I used the lathe tool too, but it was still auto filled in when using the netfabb . Are there any pointers to using the lathe tool?

I used a 0 to 360 degree arc, adjusted the center point to near perfection, how can I make sure the polys are facing uniformly ? I was expecting Netfabb to fill in a hole close to mid section of horn rather than at the beginning of the flare. It didn't seem to improperly fill in where I sewed it together with 80 polygons , intead it filled in at the beginning of the flare...
If you care to inspect one of my trumpet files, I'd be glad to make available.

I don't know how to tell if it is auto filling in the flare now or not being that there is a new and limited view of 3d models on shapeways as of 11/13/2011.

Did you use Maya? I don't understand how the extrude , move and size change of the shape could be simplified using Lightwave.

In lightwave, the bridge tool makes the two polys that you bridge together disappear after you've made them , so one makes copies of the polys on another 'layer' and then flattens the layers , then make sure a selection of the poly I'm working on, resize and move it properly, selecting in order the two polys that I want, and making sure I haven't flipped them wrong with the 'f' for flip key, I bridge the two. This is done dozens of times to finish the product.

Only way I can think of to actually make the hole is to make a series of points in a straight line on one axis and the curve on the other, then copy and rotate or lathe the points on its focal center point, then practically sew them all together using the 'make polygon tool' (select the points in a clockwise fashion then press the letter 'p' key) sewing together about 400 points , one poly at a time... in other words, a good breakfast and a days labor. I think this may have been the way professionals made things in the late eighties, early nineties. I'm new at this, this is my first year actually making things with 3d software.

And current versions do not let you bridge anything with a hole in it, and each poly selection must have same number of points. I used these tools to make my jewels in my first year of trying. A lot of times, working with less helped me to see what helps. Thanks to the team at Amiga who made Lightwave 3d and the team who made VPR those were simple tools of the trade much like compass and straightedge, and thanks to the Eureka' type discovery of software from engineers who made software that could bring to your attention wether your model is 'water tight' and possibly seal the leaks after some attention. That's usually what was needed after 'solid drill' and boolean operations and sewing up. It probably took me a dozen days or work to get this trumpet printable in wsf.

https://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=msg&th=7432&a mp;start=0&

https://www.shapeways.com/model/402406/trumpet_v_1_2011__dece mber_14.html?gid=sg73663

it has been a while since i have used lightwave... but it is definitely do able...

first-
why are there so many polys?
i would make a low poly version and then hit the ole TAB key and watch it smooth out.this would have made the hole making process far easier.

second-
use the hell out of the extrude command. love it, cherish it, bring it to the prom. it is one heck of a powerful tool. in lightwave you should have direct manipulation to all of the poly's and that is a good thing... especially if you don't have all those polys to deal with...

third-
are you trying to make a completely working version of this horn? if yes then there are some considerations that you have to keep in mind. this would include but not be limited to wall thickness for printing. if this is the case what i would do is a modified version of the extrude... called the rail extrude.

in this method you make a spline in the shape of the horn. then place a circular poly at the start of the spline. the poly shouldn't have more then 8 sides... 6 would be cool but 8 might make you feel better. create a second poly slightly smaller then the first one that is at lease smaller then the first one equal to minimum wall distance.

rail extrude the first poly. select the second one- flip it's normals, and extrude it. now what you have is both the inner wall and the outer wall of the horn. once again i am a little buggy on lightwave. when i used it back in the day(5.5/5.6) as long as you were in the same modeler file it was considered 1 object. if this is true carry on.

next delete the polys used to generate the inner wall and the outer wall. this is where you need to stitch the 2 together... slect 4 points and hit P this will make a poly . do that all the way around both the beginning and the end. this shouldn't be hard because you only have 6 or 8 points on both polys.

if you need to flare out the ends or whatnot select those polys and use the scale tool to scale them out.

lastly-
hit the TAB key and everything should smooth out. you should also be able to control this smooth using some sort of setting in lightwave...

this is the basics... there is also inserting finger buttons and whatever you do on this kind of horn...

chris

Thanks Chris, may I call you Chris.

I'll try some of these Lightwave tools you mentioned after I'm more awake. I just got up at about about 4:23 am. That's normal for me. I don't normally work until sunrise.