Wall Thickness is still a problem.

Discussion in 'My Work In Progress' started by 804770_deleted, May 19, 2015.

  1. I've tried to fix a model i made a few times now from flatting the sharp edges to increasing the scale but the model still has too thin walls and the model for the wall thickness looks different then the base model, if anyone can help me and take a look at the model let me know it is finished but now it needs to be adjusted.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 27, 2015
  2. mkroeker
    mkroeker Well-Known Member
    Are you sure that wall thickness actually is a problem ? The "wall thickness test" does not distinguish between load-bearing walls and tapering edges or small surface details, so if it paints only these features yellow you are probably good to go. (Though when you actually order a print made, a shapeways employee will check the model for thin walls and potentially cancel the order). If your modeling software does not provide easy tools for
    measuring thickness, get netfabb studio basic (freeware) from netfabb.com and check your file with it. (This will also help to find and often fix problems that only occured in the export to a printable format, where the model may appear correct within your modeling software)
     
  3. pendarestan
    pendarestan Well-Known Member
    I hope you resolved your issue with @mkroeker's good advice. If not, you could post screenshots.
     
  4. i uploaded 3 images showing the problem areas. but you say the yellow areas are okay?
     
  5. pendarestan
    pendarestan Well-Known Member
    Sometimes scaling the model won't help if something is still too thin after scaling. For example, doubling the scale of something that's 0.3 mm wide only gets you to 0.6 mm, which is too thin for WSF but multiplies the material cost by eight. Also, say you're designing for steel. If scaling puts your longest dimension above 76 mm, your minimum wall thickness goes from 1.0 mm to 1.5 mm.

    I suggest you keep the same scale but enlarge the angle and/or the thickness of the thinner tips, especially for the two yellow areas right beside the curls. Seeing a single yellow edge or corner is better than seeing a longer yellow surface on both sides of a wall.

    You can think about it like this: You'd have a harder time snapping off a corner with your fingers than you would a thin plate sticking out from that corner. Same with polishing pellets repeatedly hitting your print.

    I'm not an expert but HTH.