Definition of "supported" part

Discussion in 'Materials' started by Knuckleduster, Oct 4, 2012.

  1. Knuckleduster
    Knuckleduster Member
    This small musket will be output in frosted detail and then used as a master in my shop to make a pewter miniature.
    As you can see, some areas are too thin to be output in Frosted Detail, because unsupported parts need to be .6mm thick. It's easy enough to make them thicker, but that might ruin the look of the model. Can I add "flashing" or bridge some areas in order to support them? What exactly constitutes a "supported" part? Also, do the tips of swords and bayonets have to meet these thickness requirements? Thanks for any help you can give.

    Forrest
    Knuckleduster Miniatures
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Dragoman
    Dragoman Member
    The easiest solution seems to be to do it in Frosted Ultra Detail, which has a minimum wall thickness of 0.3 mm.
    The firing pan should print with that and the flintlock lever still would look reasonable if you increase it to that thickness.
    It would be more expensive, but the difference should not be that bad for a one-off, and you could file it down a bit.

    A "supported" part is a wire or flat piece that is supported at both ends. See the detailed guidelines for examples: https://www.shapeways.com/materials/frosted-detail-design-gui delines . I don't think there is much you could do with your design.

    Tips and edges have to follow those guidelines, too, but as long as the edge/tip is not at a sharp angle and the part as such is thicker than the minimum, you are OK. I have gotten away with 45 degree edges. 90 degree certainly is safe.

    Greetings
    Dragoman
     
  3. Knuckleduster
    Knuckleduster Member
    My rejection letter said that in frosted ultra I still needed those parts to be .6mm unless they were supported. Since this is a piece to be cast, I wonder if I could run a heavy bracket/sprue from the stock around the lock mechanisms to give them support and clip them off after mastering in tin pewter.
    Sounds like my bayonet could end in a 45-90-degree tip and I'd get away with it?
    Thanks for your help!