by
virtox
Accused of being fake, witchcraft and simply impossible..
This kinetic sculpture is inspired by the unlimited freedom of 3d printing,
it wobbles and turns with a slight movement of the hand.
Now give it a good spin or puff of air and it erupts in erratic and wild behavior.
This is the 5cm / 2" version, see the Gyro the Forms section for other shapes and sizes.
Corner stand available separately, or get the complete set below!
NEW!
Now also available as a pendant/keyfob!
In both Extra small and Small
Instructions
It is composed of four concentric cubes, each one spinning around a different axis.
The model needs some minor assembly:
Each inner cube has two knobs which need to be placed into the corresponding clamps in the parent cube. It's easiest to start with the inner most and continue outward.
And then... spin it away !
Notes
Do not be alarmed if your cube will not run smoothly at first!
Because of minor variations as a result of the printing process,
some need to wear in a little but will loosen up very quickly.
In the example video I am blowing on it to make it move, it's that smooth.
Be a little careful with (the assembly of) the Alumide version as this material is slightly less flexible/robust than the Strong & Flexible materials.
Get a complete set.
A default set consists of an Alumide Gyro the Cube and a White stand, you can change the materials in your cart later.
+ 
This kinetic sculpture is inspired by the unlimited freedom of 3d printing,
it wobbles and turns with a slight movement of the hand.
Now give it a good spin or puff of air and it erupts in erratic and wild behavior.
This is the 5cm / 2" version, see the Gyro the Forms section for other shapes and sizes.
Corner stand available separately, or get the complete set below!
NEW!
Now also available as a pendant/keyfob!
In both Extra small and Small
Instructions
It is composed of four concentric cubes, each one spinning around a different axis.
The model needs some minor assembly:
Each inner cube has two knobs which need to be placed into the corresponding clamps in the parent cube. It's easiest to start with the inner most and continue outward.
And then... spin it away !
Notes
Do not be alarmed if your cube will not run smoothly at first!
Because of minor variations as a result of the printing process,
some need to wear in a little but will loosen up very quickly.
In the example video I am blowing on it to make it move, it's that smooth.
Be a little careful with (the assembly of) the Alumide version as this material is slightly less flexible/robust than the Strong & Flexible materials.
Get a complete set.
A default set consists of an Alumide Gyro the Cube and a White stand, you can change the materials in your cart later.
+ 
by
mkassner
This is the PUPIL eye-tracking headset. It is part of the PUPIL project on code.google.com/p/pupil. This is the second tested public release of the hardware. Revision 012.
(As material we have tested all SLS-nylon versions from shapeways - they call it strong and flexible. We recommend white polished or black.
by
Kidmechano
Breathe a bit of new life into your Xevoz collection! ModiBot X figure kit ver 2.0- build and customize your own Action Hero! Each figure kit is highly-poseable, modular, and upgradeable using a simple snap-fit, ball joint construction! ---- accepts many parts and accessories from Xevoz action figure kits using 6mm ball & socket and 4mm square peg system- UPDATE- New head, feet, and shin for improved fit and posability.
by
reecejames
Fowler Plough Engine BodyPart Number: 1000-0
Scale: 1:87 (HO, HOn3)
Recommended Colour: Black
Associated Parts
• 1000-1: Fowler Plough Engine Wheels
• 1000-2: Tilt Plough (Plow)
Description
Highly detailed HO scale traction engine body. Prototype is a Fowler Plough Engine. Front axle is positionable.
Scale: 1:87 (HO, HOn3)
Recommended Colour: Black
Associated Parts
• 1000-1: Fowler Plough Engine Wheels
• 1000-2: Tilt Plough (Plow)
Description
Highly detailed HO scale traction engine body. Prototype is a Fowler Plough Engine. Front axle is positionable.
by
Whystler
Big enough for a small ornament - Small enough for a big pendant. This piece is built to house a coin battery and a light emitting diode with a simple assembly. So simple, in fact, that adding/changing the bulb or the battery is a snap and a twist! This makes it easy to renew the power source or change the bulb colour to match your decor or clothing.
Light up your home, or the dance floor.
important note: this item item does not include the led bulb or the 3v coin battery. Home assembly is required. An instructional video will be available in the futrure, but for now If you have purchased this item, please contact Whystler for assembly directions: s h a w n j o h (at) h o t m a i l (dot) c o m
Light up your home, or the dance floor.
important note: this item item does not include the led bulb or the 3v coin battery. Home assembly is required. An instructional video will be available in the futrure, but for now If you have purchased this item, please contact Whystler for assembly directions: s h a w n j o h (at) h o t m a i l (dot) c o m
by
ceramicwombat
The Kaleidoscope Clock is a two-part model for constructing a clock face. This is Part A of the model, the main frame of the clock. Part B is the background, numbers, and hands of the clock and is available at http://www.shapeways.com/model/580493
Each of the two parts of the clock is available in any of the Strong & Flexible colors, allowing you to create a clock face in the colors you prefer.
You will also need a clock movement. The kit is designed to be used with a high-torque clock movement available at http://www.clockparts.com/clock-part/high-torque-movement-aa-cell/
Part A of the kit is ready to use out of the bag. Part B is sprued and will need to be clipped apart with nail clippers or utility blade. Use a gel super glue to assemble the model. Don't use regular super glue as the Strong & Flexible material is porous and will absorb the glue. The gel variety of super glue does not soak into the material. Assemble the clock as follows:
1. Apply a tiny dab of gel super glue to the flange around each number and insert in the appropriate place on the frame of the clock face.
2. Apply a tiny dab of gel super glue to each of the intersection grooves on the background piece, line it up with the frame, and squeeze together momentarily at each intersection point. Err on the side of less glue.
3. Push the shaft of the clock movement through the hole in the frame, add the rubber and brass washers (included with the clock movement), and add and tighten the brass hex nut (also included with the movement).
4. (Optional) Apply an acrylic spray clearcoat to the assembled face and hands.
5. Push the hour hand onto the protruding white post on the clock movement. You don't need glue to attach the hour hand. It's designed to be snug.
6. Push the minute hand onto the brass post at the end of the movement and thread the brass cap nut (included with the clock movement) onto the post.
If you have any questions about construction of the clock after you receive Part A, Part B, and the clock movement, please contact me at chuck@madebywombat.com
Each of the two parts of the clock is available in any of the Strong & Flexible colors, allowing you to create a clock face in the colors you prefer.
You will also need a clock movement. The kit is designed to be used with a high-torque clock movement available at http://www.clockparts.com/clock-part/high-torque-movement-aa-cell/
Part A of the kit is ready to use out of the bag. Part B is sprued and will need to be clipped apart with nail clippers or utility blade. Use a gel super glue to assemble the model. Don't use regular super glue as the Strong & Flexible material is porous and will absorb the glue. The gel variety of super glue does not soak into the material. Assemble the clock as follows:
1. Apply a tiny dab of gel super glue to the flange around each number and insert in the appropriate place on the frame of the clock face.
2. Apply a tiny dab of gel super glue to each of the intersection grooves on the background piece, line it up with the frame, and squeeze together momentarily at each intersection point. Err on the side of less glue.
3. Push the shaft of the clock movement through the hole in the frame, add the rubber and brass washers (included with the clock movement), and add and tighten the brass hex nut (also included with the movement).
4. (Optional) Apply an acrylic spray clearcoat to the assembled face and hands.
5. Push the hour hand onto the protruding white post on the clock movement. You don't need glue to attach the hour hand. It's designed to be snug.
6. Push the minute hand onto the brass post at the end of the movement and thread the brass cap nut (included with the clock movement) onto the post.
If you have any questions about construction of the clock after you receive Part A, Part B, and the clock movement, please contact me at chuck@madebywombat.com
