1/285 (6mm) Scale Modern Swiss Taifun (Typhoon) II Tank Destroyer.
Contains 2 highly detailed tanks.
Taifun II (Typhoon) Tank Destroyer
- 2x Swiss Taifun II (Typhoon) Tank Destroyers
From 1978 until the early 80s, Mowag ran a development program for an unusual casemate tank destroyer on the chassis of one of its unsuccessful prototype IFVs. This IFV was called the Tornado and the tank destroyer project received the name “Taifun”
(Typhoon).For the 80s, its casemate design was very unusual and was quite a throwback. It was a completely private venture and not a response to any kind of Swiss military demand. Back then, the Swiss army was operating a fleet of AMX-13 light tanks – in Switzerland, however, these were classified as tank destroyers. It was Mowag’s hope to replace these aging vehicles with a tank destroyer design of its own.
At least one prototype was certainly built between 1980 and 1982. It had a crew of four men (commander, driver, gunner and loader), quite thin armor (protecting the crew frontally against 25mm autocannon hits at 1000 meters and 150mm shell fragments), but a powerful NATO standard 105mm L7 gun with the option to replace it with a NATO standard 120mm smoothbore, possibly with an automatic loader to replace the gunner whose operating conditions within the cramped hull were difficult – to put it mildly. The depression and elevation angles, however, were excellent (-12/+18 degrees). The gun could traverse 15 degrees from the vehicle axis to each side. In fact, the whole vehicle was quite small and extremely low (its height was only 2.1 meters and that included the 45cm clearance). It was light too (26.5 tons) and it was to be powered by a 575hp Detroit Diesel 8V-71T engine (power-to-weight ratio: 21.7 hp/t). Maximum speed was 65 km/h.
Some part cleanup will be necessary. The 3D printing process uses a waxy substance to support certain part features during the printing process. Although the parts are cleaned by Shapeways, some waxy residue may remain. It can be safely removed with water and a mild aqueous detergent like "Simple Green" using an old, soft toothbrush, Q-tips or pipe cleaners. Customers report that "Bestine" and "Goo Gone" also work well.During the printing process, liquid resin is cured by ultraviolet light. Microscopic bits of resin may remain uncured.
Let your parts sit in direct sunlight for a few hours to fully cure the resin.
Water-based acrylic paints meant for plastics is strongly recommended. Other paints, especially enamels, may not cure on Frosted Detail 3D-printed plastics.
Use dedicated model sprue cutters to remove parts to minimise the risk of damage to parts.
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