1:32 Teves und Braun Airfoil Radiator for Albatros D.III, D.V and D.Va
Beginning with early production models of the D.II, Albatros scouts were fitted with Teves und Braun airfoil-shaped radiators mounted in the upper wing. At the time this configuration was thought to have aerodynamic advantages over the Windhoff "ear" radiators mounted on the sides of the fuselage of the preceding D.I and earliest D.II models. Another advantage was that combat damage wouldn't immediately result in all the coolant draining from the cylinder heads, unlike the lower-mounted Windhoffs. (Nevertheless Any damage to the radiator would certainly put the machine out of action in short enough order.) Teves und Braun seemed to supply the majority of the radiators fitted to Johannistal-built Albatros D.IIIs and D.Vs; later on Daimler-Mercedes supplied radiators as well and these seem to have been quite common on the D.Va and OAW-built D.IIIs. Incidentally the photographic evidence appears sparse regarding the fitting of the hand-operated shutters in conjuction with the T&B radiators; instead it seems these were exclusive, or nearly so, to the Daimler-Merecedes radiator equipped machines.
What's in the box?
Your Teves und Braun radiator will arrive in two parts; a single piece representing the radiator core, header tank and tower, and another sprue containing two filler caps and three intake horns. Note that only one each of the cap and horn are needed; the others are provided in case of loss or breakage. Instructions Preparing the parts for painting The parts will arrive with a slightly greasy coating. This should be removed prior to painting. To remove the coating, scrub them with a toothbrush in ordinary dish washing liquid and rinse thoroughly, or soak them for not more than 1 minute in a small jar filled with acetone (nail polish remover). Longer exposures to acetone will start to attack the fine details and possibly warp the fins. An ultrasonic cleaner filled with water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid is also an excellent way to clean the parts. Once the waxy support material is completely removed, the parts will appear white wherever support material was needed during printing. We recommend painting the parts at this stage with a dark color such as Tamiya NATO black; this way you can see much better what you are doing. In a few spots you will see textured areas and steps left over from the printing process; these can be cleaned up by carefully sanding with a sharpened fine grade sanding stick (or similar). With care this can be done without spoiling the details. A filling primer such as Mr. Surfacer 500 can be helpful too, though be careful to keep it out of the core. Clearing the core slats As with the prototype, we have modeled the radiator matrix to have spaces between the elements, allowing light to shine through when viewed at just the right angle. As a side effect of the 3D printing process, these cavities will be filled with a waxy gel-like support material. The cleaning process recommended above will not be enough to open these passages. To clean these areas, we suggest you cut pieces of 600 grit sandpaper into strips about 2mm wide and 50mm long. Make 45 degree snips at one end of each strip to form a point. Insert the strip into each slot, one at a time, by holding the sandpaper close to the point with a tweezer or fine pliers and rocking it back and forth until it goes in. Once all the way thru, flip the sandpaper to treat the opposite surface. Repeat with the remaining slats. A fresh stiff strip of paper will be easier to insert (go figure), so save yourself some time and cut lots of strips!
Carefully cut a filler cap from the sprue and cement into the hole at the top of the header tower using CA. Cut one of the intake horns from the sprue and CA into the hole in the front of the tower. You may wish to add the mounting straps made from scrap PE, these are the same width as the left and right sides of the radiator and are approximately 2.5mm long. They were on the upper wing only, in each of the 4 corners and oriented with the airflow. You could also add a bolt head detail to each strap where it fastens to the wing. On the bottom, provision is made for you to add a drain cock in the rear of the right side wall. Check your references for these and other details.
The best information we have is that these radiators were dipped in molten solder and otherwise generally left unpainted and unfinished. Solder left unprotected will rapidly tarnish and turn to a dull grey. Like most things having to do with the Great War, there is plenty of room for interpretation. Check those references!