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3D printed in white nylon plastic with a matte finish and slight grainy feel.
Fixed axle chassis for the Furness E1 & Cambrian SPC locomotive. P4 Version.
The frame spacer is loose as is the front cylinder cover. The former goes between the frames wherever you prefer based on motor and gearbox choice and the cylinder cover simply plugs in the front.
The slots for the front carrying wheels may need a little filing out for the reccomended 2mm 'straw hat' bearings that your axles and wheels go in.
Driving wheel axles will need 1/8th 'Top Hat' bushes (bearings) and the holes in the chassis may need reaming out slightly to fit them. Creating some downward slop in the wheels can also help electrical pickup, especially if you use top acting pick ups pusing downwards on the wheel treads as this also creates a basic form of springing too.
The front chassis hole that is designed for body fixing is only to be reamed out only a little bit as the bolt will self tap, a retaining nut is not needed unless you want to add one. Brake pads are already in position but you will have to make your own brake rigging if required, on the insides are dimples to accept some thin brass rodding. 0.45 is a good choice.
Owing to various conflicting written information and drawings regarding the driving wheel diameters the descision was finally made and the chassis are designed to use Alan Gigson 5' 6" driving wheels, code G4866 for 00 and EM and code GS866 for P4. These wheels also have the correct crankpin throw. The front and rear wheels are 3' 6", Alan Gibson codes G4842 & GS842 respectively. No doubt other companies wheels can be used also.
The slightly larger quoted (elsewhere) wheel sizes no doubt could be used with a bit of tweaking also but I'd go with the above as they are guaranteed to fit.
A London Road Models 1/50 Motor Mount (Gearbox) and a Mashima 1020 motor with added 6x12mm diametre flywheel with 1.5mm shaft hole is reccomended.
The only potential problem with this combination is a small hole in the cab below the firebox hole may need to be cut out slightly for the gear wheel, but after backhead, levers and crew were added to the finished locomotive you won't easily see it, that said there are many other motors and gearboxes out there that might fit better.
Coupling rods can be found here... https://www.shapeways.com/product/RZRF52LSV/fr-j1-e1-albion-coupling-rods?optionId=60589211