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FR K2 - P4 Chassis - 3' 6" Bogies 3d printed

Not a Photo

White Natural Versatile Plastic
FR K2 - P4 Chassis - 3' 6" Bogies 3d printed
FR K2 - P4 Chassis - 3' 6" Bogies 3d printed

Not a Photo

FR K2 - P4 Chassis - 3' 6" Bogies

Ships as soon as 7 days
3D printed in white nylon plastic with a matte finish and slight grainy feel.

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Product Description


Frame width 16mm's, worked out using 17.75mm Back to Back settings for brake pads etc.

P4 chassis for the FR (Furness Railway) K2 Locomotive & the Freelance Variations.


IMPORTANT NOTE:  Both textual and scale drawings don't always seem to agree on what

wheelbase and diameter bogie wheels the Furness Railway K2 (21 Class) and the Cambrian

Railways Class 61's ran with.  For the Bogie wheel diameter many sources say 3' 6" but other

sources say 3' 0", similarly the

wheelbase is disputed between

5’ 6” + 6’ 6½” + 8’ 3”

5' 9" + 6'6" + 8'6"


5’ 9” + 6’ 8” + 8’ 6”

The Furness K2 available from SCC have been built and designed

with the bottom wheelbase.  The FR K2 was first to be released with the

chassis designed to be used with 3' 0" Bogie Wheels as some sources indeed state. 

The FR K2 chassis, aside from modelling gauge designations are now renamed as...


'FR K2 - Chassis - 3' 0" Bogies'


'FR K2 - Chassis - 3' 6" Bogies'


As all the K2 chassis and bodies are common to each other, any will fit in combination as they

are interchangable.


For more information on the discrepancies and to help you decide, you may look here for

more information...


or here...

...where some research has been conducted and discussions formed.  If you have a 3' 0"

chassis and want to ocnvert it to take 3' 6" bogie wheels then a bit of filing of the frames and

pivot arm may be needed.


Either way, if using a 3' 6" set up the top of the frames will be very thin and weak.  Neatly

cutting the frame here and glueing the front section that goes above the front bogie wheel

to the loco body may be a consideration and you may need to file a little extra clearence for the wheels, same for the optional  bogie splashers.  The real thing was a tight fit too.


Also prototype photo's sometimes showed the

optional bogie splashers removed (on the K2 at least), unless you have generous curve radii

these will likely have to be ommitted. 


On the EM and P4 versions these have been pulled

inwards by 0.7mm's.  As neither are to perfect width due to thickness and bogie movement, If you would like Optional Bogie Splashers pulled in or out to a

different degree please contact me and It'll be arranged.  The 00 ones are 5.7mm's width. 


Finally a more solid answer to the wheelbase issue between the Furness K2's and Cambrian Class 61's has been found with much thanks and credit to Mike Peascod of the Cumbrian Railways Association.  Here is His PDF he kindly compiled from a few sources to show the different wheelbases that existed as genuine variation...




Note:  This is a fixed chassis so reaming

out the axle holes downwards and

allowing the bushes to move freely may

help things.  The dummy hornblocks

have 'etched' lines cut into them to aid a

saw should you wish to remove these and

add real brass sprung hornblocks in their

place.  If using a FUD chassis the chassis

will be weak until the replacement

hornblocks are properly installed. 

Chassis more readily set up for springing

are being worked on as a future




The Bogie and Brake Gear is sprue joined

to the top and sides, as are the optional

Splashers (Wheel Arches) for the Bogie

Wheels.  Unless you have very generous

radius curves these likely will have to be

omitted from the final build.  Some

prototype photographs showed the

locomotive without them though.  Cut

these components off and keep them

safe.  The chassis is printed square,

however the rear frame spacer is sprued

on the left side for you to add where you

want depending on your gearbox choice.



1/8th / 3mm 'Top Hat' Bearings need to be

glued into the axle holes for the 24mm /

6FT Driving Wheels and for the 3ft 6inch  Bogie

Wheels you can fit 2mm 'Straw Hat'

Bearings once the holes have been

reamed out to accomodate them.  Test

builds show that, like the tenders it isn't

really needed and they will roll nicely

anyway, but the choice is yours.



The frames have sprued to the insides two

x 1mm thick, thickening lengths that if

fitted will make the frames 1mm's thicker

either side.  Your choice of gearbox will

dictate if you use these or how much of

them you use as you can cut them to size

to thicken up most of the frames and

leave a thinner area for a gearbox if





For the Bogie to work there are two


A)  A thin 'cheesehead' bolt with a

approximately a 1.5mm diametre thread

(such as a 10 or 11BA) can pe pushed

through the underside of the Bogey up

into the bottom of the Loco Body under

the smokebox and screwed in, this will

allow the Bogey to turn in its arc and also

provide lateral movement.  Adding a weak

spring (like those in sprung coupling

packs)  with a thin washer soldered to it

providing a slide helps.



B)  Possibly the easier option, screw the

chassis to the body with a 10 or 11BA bolt

using the holes underneath the

Smokebox, then using the optional Pivot

Arm that was also sprue joined to the

Bogie, screw this upwards into the rear

chassis hole located in front of the front

Driving Wheel, then at the other end

screw a bolt downwards into it and

through the Bogie, finally cap it with a

nut and secure with a paint blob.  The

clearence between the top of the bolt

head and the bolt head that joines the

chassis to the body is minimal.  If it

conflicts a few gentle passes with a fine

file will sort this easily.  The Pivot Arm is

printed to the correct orientation so be

sure to fit it the correct way!

The  chassis  will self tap.


For pick ups, crank pins, motors,

gearboxes etc and the Coupling Rods

(available on this site), the same methods

used for conventional kit building need

to be applied, and there are many options.


For the test builds the 'traditional'

method of PCB strips and 0.45mm brass

wire/rod was used to good effect.


General note:  Once the chassis is built and working you may need to file/shave a small amount of material from under loco body for the coupling rods due to the running plate needing to be printed thicker than a scale reality.  On some models sometimes the inside edge of the splashers need a small amount shaving away too (moreso in P4).  A few passes with a brass brush in a mini drill makes this a 2 second job though.


Initial builds were done with Alan Gibson wheels that have a 14" 'throw' on the crankpins.  The K2's had a throw of 12" and so this also explains some of the shaving of material needed if using 14" throw wheels.  Alan Gibson do currently do wheels with a throw of 13" so these will work even better needing less shaving.


Alan Gibson code =

4872V,   6' 0" / 24.0mm,  20 spoke,  LNER B13,  Class Plain,  PB,  13"  (or the S4 equivalent)



To allow your model to be motorised

without having to hack away at the

underside of the firebox or boiler as is

common with many of kits depending

what parts you use,  a 'Roadrunner +'

Gearbox from High Level will fit nicely,

using a drive extender may make things

easier too, especially if fitting a fly wheel. 

These components were used in the

research and development trial builds.



For wheels, axles, crankpins etc
Alan Gibson is a great resource is Markits

For Motors and Gearboxes, High Level are





For crank pins, hand rail rod/wire and

pillars, washers, bearings and other small

sundry items Mainly Trains is a good

website to visit.


But of course you can use whatever suits

your needs and preference best,
the above has been typed out to hopefully

aid you should you be new to kit building.

 The advantage of these 3D printed kits is

90% of the work is done for you, both on

the body and the chassis.

What's in the box:
FR K2 - P4 Chassis - 3' 6" Bogies
10.7 x 2.94 x 3.1 cm
Switch to inches
4.21 x 1.16 x 1.22 inches
Switch to cm
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