Set 1: the Outside Bits.
This is an accurizing detail set for Bandai's 1:350 model of the Millennium Falcon (the "Vehicle 006" kit). It's a nice little tiny model, but it has two drawbacks. First, although it's clearly based on the original 1977 Star Wars model, it contains some inaccurate The Force Awakens (TFA) details. Second, it has solid plastic windows for the cockpit and gunbays, which don't look great. Hence this set!
The set includes replacement parts for the cockpit cone, gunport windows, engine grilles, the dish and its mount, the curved sidewalls, the docking ring discs, the four upper round maintenance pits, the two cannons, and the cockpit tunnel ridge. It's a pretty darn good selection, if I say so myself.
However, please read the following if you're interested in these items.
These accurizing parts are not mass-market commercial products. They won't easily snap together like a Bandai plastic kit. I made them for my own use, and have put them here in case they're of interest to someone else. Possibly you, since you’re reading this.
These are components for the serious model maker who wants to build a more accurate miniature. They require finishing and careful installation. If you don't want to trim, sand, and glue, then these aren't the parts you're looking for!
The parts are tiny, and easily broken. They push the limits of today's 3D printers. The detail in the digital previews is all there, but it won't always be visible at the miniscule sizes that this scale requires!
Okay. So what do you get for your money?
Open cockpit cone.
This is a direct replacement, though will take some considerable cutting of the Bandai model to fit, and will need to be glued with epoxy or superglue/ACC. Because of the way 3D printing works, you will probably want to carefully sand down the print lines.
The window bars have of course been thickened, compared to the prototype, to make them a bit sturdier. No provisions are made for glazing since the original ILM models lacked glazing, model glass always looks unconvincing, adding "glass" will emphasize how thick the bars are, and finally glazing makes it harder to see a lovingly detailed interior.
Docking ring discs.
The Bandai 350 docking rings aren't very screen-accurate since they taper in too much and, oddly, have TFA detailing. It would have been a lot of work to make whole new parts with the correct nearly-parallel profile, so I just fixed the biggest problem: I made new disc surfaces that don't have the extraneous TFA pipework. You will need to drill out the ring faces and file them carefully with a small half-round file to get these replacements to fit.
The solid gunport windows are tricky to replace since the prototype ones have such slender bars. I had to make thicker bars to get something printable, which does unfortunately limit views of the interior. No glazing, as above. The windows are designed to sit about flush with the surface, unlike the incorrect sunken Bandai ones. You will need to carefully drill out, then file, the existing solid windows to fit these ones. You will also need to trim back the cannon yoke component.
It's very strange. Although Bandai went to great lengths to ensure that the straight saucer sidewalls on this model are totally correct - not mirrored and equipped with TFA details, like the Bandai 1:144 Falcon - they still put incorrect TFA-era details on the curved sidewalls!
These replacement sidewalls are a bit more accurate, though of course at this tiny size a lot of the details are hard to make out. You will need to do a fair bit of filing and trimming to get the parts to fit, I'm afraid.
I've made replacement quad cannons that more closely resemble the design of those found on the original 5 foot model of the Falcon. However, note that at this tiny size these printed cannons are really really fragile. You're better off keeping the Bandai cannons in place if your model is going to be handled at all.
The Bandai dish has a sturdy, but really ugly, solid molded dish mount. So I've made an open style mount and replacement dish. It's not quite screen accurate, since I had to make it thick enough to print, but it's a definite improvement.
The dish and mount are made as separate components so you can glue them together at whatever fixed angle you wish. In theory you could drill them out and add a very fine piece of wire to make it adjustable, but that would make it much weaker and vulnerable to breakage. So it's not a feature that I built in.
Cockpit tunnel ridge
One great mystery is why Bandai put such an inaccurate ridge of greeblies along the cockpit tunnel. It's too tall and wide, and doesn't look like anything from any movie. So I've made an L-shaped replacement piece. It's really really difficult to cut out the existing ridge and glue this in, however. So I don't recommend this except for advanced modellers!
Round maintenance pits
The 350's trapezoidal (kind of) underside maintenance pits correctly reflect the ANH design. But oddly the eight round pits on the mandibles are of the TFA design.
So I've designed four tiny discs, which look more ANH, for the upper pits. Installing them is fiddly as you will have to slice off the existing discs on the lower mandible. Then glue the discs to fill the holes of the upper mandible.
I didn't make replacements for the lower round pits as they're not visible when the ship is parked and you hafta stop somewhere.