1/128 Scale Hotchkiss 3-pdr 1.85"/40 (47mm) on Vickers MKI mount as used by the Royal Navy (Note this is the Hotchkiss 3-pdr not the Vickers 3-pdr which was larger and less common). This is a highly detailed part based on the Norman Ough plans (For the mount) and many reference photographs for the most accurate and detailed Hotchkiss 3-pdr 1.85"/40 (47mm) Guns available anywhere. These guns were used on many ships in WW1 and small craft throughout WW2.
- 1x Mounting
- Highly detailed and accurate parts, modelled from plans and photographic reference.
- Barrel and Mounting are printed separately for maximum detail and can be trained as desired.
- details include: Hex nuts, accurate Rivet placement and highly detailed Breech Loader
- Main assembly comes as 2 pieces made for ease of painting and assembly and also to minimise wax support contact
Hotchkiss 3-pdr guns were introduced in 1886 for locations where the 6-pdr gun
was considered to be too heavy. Used as anti-torpedo boat guns on most small cruisers built prior to World War I. As did other nations, the British found that these small-caliber projectiles were too light to be effective and many guns were converted following World War I to sub-caliber training and saluting guns. This last use meant that a number of these guns survived until World War II when they were converted back to shooting guns and used on MLs and other minor auxiliary warships. An approximate total of 2,950 of these guns were in naval service, with about 1,950 of these still available in 1939.
Mark I was of monobloc construction while the Mark II was a built-up design. Almost all surviving guns in 1939 were Mark I.
Some part cleanup will be necessary. The 3D printing process uses a waxy substance to support certain part features during the printing process. Although the parts are cleaned by Shapeways, some waxy residue may remain. It can be safely removed with water and a mild aqueous detergent like "Simple Green" using an old, soft toothbrush, Q-tips or pipe cleaners. During the printing process, liquid resin is cured by ultraviolet light. Microscopic bits of resin may remain uncured.
Let your parts sit in direct sunlight for a few hours to fully cure the resin.
Water-based acrylic paints meant for plastics is strongly recommended. Other paints, especially enamels, may not cure on Frosted Detail 3D-printed plastics.
Use dedicated model sprue cutters to remove parts to minimise the risk of damage to parts.
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Painting tips and preparation