LB&SCR E2 - Body (WSF) in 4mm / 1/76 scale
For a much cheaper smoother version in resin,
with very comparable FUD/FXD/SFDP quality at £48.89
plus postage, please email firstname.lastname@example.org
for ordering, same for all the E2's. Current price list...
For White/Black Strong Flexible (WSF/BSF) only. A finer, scrisper and smoother version in Frosted Ultra Detail (FUD)is also available.
The BR plain weathered Black example photograph has been built using this WSF E2 body, the 00 chassis and the brass coupling rods all available from this shop. Motor, wheels, gearbox etc. can be found using the links at the bottom of this page. The initial build.
The BR Lined example photograph has been brilliantly done by Matt Lindsay and uses the WSF bodyshell coupled with the Bachmann Jinty RTR chassis after a little tweaking. Bravo Sir!
This is a 4mm scale model of the London, Brighton & South Coast Railway (LB&SCR) E2 Locomotive with extended tanks. The E2-X is a loco varient only in concept. By unifying the running plate at the lowest level this should in theory give a greater coal and water capacity thus streamlining operation by reducing fuel stops, the cab is also wider giving the crew more room. The V2 is the same as the V1 for the most part but with further detail changes.
Please note - the prototype photographs sometimes showed the Smoke-Box to have rivets and other times none at all. For this reason this model has been designed as the smooth type to print better and provide a better canvas. Rivets can be added by buying transfer decals that have physical relief. DCC Concepts is one manufacturer that supplies them.
Also to be noted, the rivets on the side of the tank don't always turn out perfectly in WSF/BSF, especially after sanding down. Adding transfer rivet decals will solve this easily.
The Smoke-Box Door is located in front of its position by sprues, the two optional slide in cab doors are sprued under the cab, the cab roof is loose. The buffers are sprue joined underneath, this gives you the choice of using them or substituting them with metal ones from other manufacturers without having to hack them off a buffer beam.
If you use the supplied buffers please note that the buffer bases and buffer heads are slightly thicker than they should be due to printing tolerances so filing them back will bring it back to scale length.
The Boiler Pipe now sadly has been removed from this upload and made as a separate purchase in stronger materials
due to it causing print rejections and thus lost sales. It can be found here...
Or you could make your own from 1.2mm brass rod bent to shape with 2 split pins around it.
You will need hand rail pillars or split pins and 0.45mm rod for the hand rails. To make the accurate positioning and fitting easier, holes have been slightly indented on the body; they just need drilling out.
Couplings are left for the user to decide based upon preference; just pop in your preferred coupling type. Alternatively ignore that and slot a scale coupling through the rectangular hole in the buffer beam on the body.
For the rear window grills drilling small holes to take 0.3mm brass/nickel silver rod is recommended as printing them thin enough is difficult due to the tolerances of 'thin wires.'
To fit the chassis to the body, the rear simply slots in the body at an angle. The front is fixed via a screw or bolt that taps easily and is all that is needed, a nut can be glued in place inside the Smoke-Box Saddle if desired. This body shell can be fixed to several Ready To Run (RTR) chassis with a little tweaking, alternatively a fixed chassis is also available separately in 00 or P4.
Please see the Chassis themselves for more information.
For wheels, axles, crankpins etc
Alan Gibson is a great resource
...as is Markits
For Motors and Gearboxes, High Level are recommended.
For the LB&SCR E2, to allow your model to be motorised without having to hack away at the underside of the firebox or boiler as is common with many of kits depending what parts you use, a 'Roadrunner +' Gearbox from High Level will fit nicely, using a drive extender may make things easier too, especially if fitting a fly wheel. These components were used in the research and development trial builds.
For crank pins, hand rail rod/wire and pillars, washers, bearings and other small sundry items Mainly Trains is a good website to visit.
But of course you can use whatever suits your needs and preference best,
the above has been typed out to hopefully aid you should you be new to kit building. The advantage of these 3D printed kits is 90% of the work is done for you, both on the body and the chassis.
Due to printing tolerance issues the whistles have had to be removed. These can be simply made using a piece of brass rod as a representation. Whistles with printable geometry are now available from SCC also - please look in the spares section.
For a video series on building SCC locomotive kits...
For those of you who like to anthropomorphasize their engines, suitable expressive smoke-box faces are available from Tyne Side Models https://www.shapeways.com/shops/seansstuff?section=Character+Type+1+Faces+-+Size+2&s=0