HWP-SL1 ultra-narrow HO Slot Car Chassis for narrow rear axle!
HWP-SL1 Version R14 chassis features the original mid-engine position of the original prototype release. N20 motors with shorter shafts will have to be shimmed get the pinion gear into alignment with the crown gear. But the more forward engine position improves handling.
Please note photos for the type of N20 motors recommended for this chassis. The NEW SL2 chassis features a more universal motor clip.
This chassis was designed to give custom builders the narrowest chassis possible. But the ultra narrow design requires you trim the shoulder of the crown gear and gear boss. (Another version for snap-in rear axles is available to make building easier)
The SL1 is just 0.537" wide at its mid-section, making it narrower than all standard production chassis! It's an ideal platform for creating properly proportioned open-wheeled Formula, Indy, antiques, and flaired-fendered hot rods. Its fully adjustable and backwards compatible wheelbase fits everything from the shortest
T-Jet style screw-post bodies, past a fully extended 4-gear. You could even fit an HO scaled tour bus (if you wanted)
. Simply trim the front rails to the length you need, and remove any cross brace that might interfere with the machine screw used to hold the adjustment and guide pin. Drill out the axle holes to the diameter of your choice. Depending on the pinion gear you use, you might need to make a shim out of brass or aluminum tubing (available at most hobby shops) to fit the gear to the N20 motor's 1mm armature shaft. You can also use a front axle from an old Aurora AFX G-Plus chassis to adapt the motor shaft to a Tyco-styled pinion gear. LifeLike pinions may fit without the need for a shim.
Depending on your print, you may need to sand the front motor collar slightly if the fit is a little too snug. Note, the chassis is designed to flex downwards while putting in the motor. The thin rails on either side of the motor's cradle are there for stability during the printing process. You can keep them. Or remove them. They need to be removed when using my body adaptor clips you see in the video. Or my SL1 Roadster body.
I use 3.5mm desoldering braid for the pickups which you can find on Amazon: 3.5mm desoldering braid
Requires N20 Can-style motor (similar to AFX Mega G+) and miniature mounting screws, plus other standard HO parts (axles, tires, pinion/crown gear, and T-Jet style guidepin). Rear tires should be at least 0.43" O.D., Front tires minimum 0.375" O.D. Uses braided pickup wires. N20 motors available through the Slot Lodge
Flat surfaces underneath allow easier fitting of weights or magnets if you wish. Its interior was opened up to allow easier fitting of the motor mount screws. And several front end options are included. Giving you numerous customization options for fitting braids. 1 provides a double position snap-in guidepin slot. You can run it forwards or backwards in combination with front axle placement to tune the front end. Another option is a snap in guide plate. Use it to hold the front end in place with a flat-mount screw, while giving you a snap-in guidepin. Also includes 2 t-jet style guidepins which can be coated with CA glue for extra strength.
The chassis is only available in white plastic. You can paint it the color of your choose using enamel or acrylic model paints. Feel free to contact me through private messages here if you need any help or guidance with building the SL1. Please remember to post any feedback to help improve the platform!
Optional body clips - available soon - will adapt it for use with AFX (Magna Traction, Mega G), AW (XTraction & 4-Gear), and Tyco 440-X2 wide-pan bodies.
Tuneable traction magnet version and more custom bodies coming soon!