This is a body of a 4mm / 1/76 model of a Furness Railway K2 Locomotive, also known as the 21 Class. Heavily modified. The 'Freelance' aspect is following on from the V3 Varient. This probably never existed, but theoretically makes a lot of sense as an improvement when you consider how engines were rebuilt and experimented on, the dome and cab is different mainly. This now slightly resembles a D40 locomotive.
This is the finer smoother and crisper version in FUD / Frosted Ultra Detail.
A cheaper but slightly less detailed thicker version in WSF / White Strong Flexible and the Black Flexible variant is also available.
BODY INSTRUCTIONS: The Reverser Rod, is located under the boiler. This needs to be cut off and added to the post sticking out from the left side in front of the front splasher and joined to the hole in the cab front. You will notice to the left of the smokebox saddle on the running plate is a sprued pipe - again, cut this off and add it to the side of the smokebox approximately a millimetre or two above the handrail pillar hole. Some 0.7-1.2mm rod made from plastic, brass or nickel silver is to be joined to this with a small split pin as a handrail pillar situated roughly halfway along the boiler, above the handrail pillar hole that is above the main splasher.
The rear of this pipe needs to be bent slightly into a reverse curve before it reaches the front of the cab sheet. Please refer to prototype photographs for more. Hand rail pillars and 0.45mm brass or nickel silver rod are also needed.
At the rear of the cab are 'cab beading' protrusions that need some 0.45mm metal rod adding downwards for a handrail.
You will find the smokebox door and buffers under the boiler - simply cut them out and position them as desired.
The advantage of you adding these yourself is because many people prefer to substitute their own and it would be easier for you to add what you like rather than have to hack away at them already moulded on.
Similarly the guard irons are located under the running plate at the front on sprue. Cut these off and add them to the front of the buffer beam at the distance dictated by your chosen wheel gauge. With a little tweaking some RTR examples may be able to fit underneath this body. Alternatively Chassis are designed and available in this shop along with suitable Coupling Rods in Raw Brass.
CHASSIS INSTRUCTIONS: Please see the Chassis themselves for more information.
To allow your model to be motorised without having to hack away at the underside of the firebox or boiler as is common with many of kits depending what parts you use, a 'Roadrunner +' Gearbox from High Level will fit nicely, using a drive extender may make things easier too, especially if fitting a fly wheel. These components were used in the research and development trial builds.
EDIT: Future builds have shown that a London Road Models GB4 Single stage Motor Mount (Gearbox) fits better, is cheaper and quicker to build. As with all loco kits the choice is entirely yours though.
For wheels, axles, crankpins etc
Alan Gibson is a great resource
...as is Markits
For Motors and Gearboxes, High Level are recommended.
For crank pins, hand rail rod/wire and pillars, washers, bearings and other small sundry items Mainly Trains is a good website to visit.
But of course you can use whatever suits your needs and preference best,
the above has been typed out to hopefully aid you should you be new to kit building. The advantage of these 3D printed kits is 90% of the work is done for you, both on the body and the chassis.
Due to printing tolerance issues the whistles have had to be removed. These can be simply made using a piece of brass rod as a representation. Whistles with printable geometry are now available from SCC also - please look in the spares section.
For those that like to anthropomorphasize their engines suitable smokebox expression faces are available from Tyneside Models...
For a video series on building SCC locomotive kits...