1/600 Scale Royal Navy HMS Rodney 6" MKXXII Guns. Highly detailed replacement parts for 1/600 Scale Airfix HMS Nelson/Rodney Kit.
- Adjustable Barrels, can be positioned as desired
- Accurate Sighting Port Hatches (Specific to HMS Rodney, See My Shop for HMS Nelson Guns, which are slightly different)
- Rear Hatch
- Periscope and welding lines on Turret Roof.
A more powerful weapon than the previous 6" (15.2 cm) Mark XII
, this gun was originally designed for the never-built "G3" battlecruisers. When those ships were canceled as a result of the Washington Naval Limitation Treaty
, the guns and mountings were then used on the Nelson class battleships. These were the first British battleships to carry their secondary armament in turrets rather than in broadside casemates.
Like many British medium-caliber mountings of the 1920s, these guns had a high maximum elevation so that they could engage aircraft, but this was of secondary importance to their use in the anti-ship role. In reality, the training and elevation speeds of the mountings were too slow for the AA role.
The arrangement on the Nelson class had a major disadvantage in that all turrets and their working spaces were grouped tightly together. As the turrets and working spaces were only lightly protected by 1" (25 mm) HT plating, this meant that a single shell could have disabled all guns on one side.
The Mark XXII* was constructed of A tube, taper wound wire, full-length jacket, breech ring and breech bush screwed into the A tube. Used a hand-operated Welin breech block. When this gun was relined with a tapered inner A tube having three locating shoulders, it became the Mark XXII. The later Mark XXII** was built without wire and used an inner A tube. A total of 40 guns were built, including two experimental guns and six Mark XXII**
Some part cleanup will be necessary. The 3D printing process uses a waxy substance to support certain part features during the printing process. Although the parts are cleaned by Shapeways, some waxy residue may remain. It can be safely removed with water and a mild aqueous detergent like "Simple Green" using an old, soft toothbrush, Q-tips or pipe cleaners. Customers report that "Bestine" and "Goo Gone" also work well.During the printing process, liquid resin is cured by ultraviolet light. Microscopic bits of resin may remain uncured.
Let your parts sit in direct sunlight for a few hours to fully cure the resin.
Water-based acrylic paints meant for plastics is strongly recommended. Other paints, especially enamels, may not cure on Frosted Detail 3D-printed plastics.
Use dedicated model sprue cutters to remove parts to minimise the risk of damage to parts.
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