L&YR Class 28 (27 Rebuild) in 4mm / 1/76 scale
For a cheaper one printed in MSLA detail resin for £38.89
similar to Shapeways FUD/SFDP please email firstname.lastname@example.org
This is a 4mm scale model of the Lancashire and Yorkshire Railway (L&YR) Class 28 Locomotive.
This is the version that was rebuilt from a Aspinal Class 11/27 and reclassified as the Class 28 due to its superheating. To contrast this, the 657 batch that were built straight into Class 28s from the get go had some detail differences.
The model has been updated since the promo photographs so it is even more accurate now in a few areas.
The grey weathered photograph is my own prototype build in WSF and the clean black model was built
Keith Wallace using a MSLA print. W
ith a bit of work it was grafted it to a Bachmann C Class RTR 00 Chassis.
You can read about the build here:
& the main website here:
Please note - the prototype photographs sometimes showed the Smoke-Box to have rivets around the rear, other times the rear and front and other times none at all. For this reason this model has been designed as the smooth type to print better and provide a better canvas. Rivets can be added by buying transfer decals that have physical relief. DCC Concepts is one manufacturer that supplies them.
BODY INSTRUCTIONS: The Smoke-Box Door is located on a sprue in front of the body. The 2 different types of buffers that the Class 28s ran with are sprue joined underneath. This gives you the choice of using either or substituting them with metal ones from other manufacturers without having to hack them off a buffer beam. The chimney is not sprued so just pop it in one of the two holes on the smokebox for your chosen variation. If you want to drill the chimney through small dimples are made in the centre for a drill grab so best advice would be to glue it in place then drill the holes afterwards..
The Reverser Rod is located just below the boiler - this needs to be removed and joined to the left hand side of the locomotive starting at the hole in the cab sheet and finishing towards the lever in between the front Splashers (Wheel Arches).
You will need hand rail pillars or split pins and 0.45mm rod for the hand rails. To make the accurate positioning and fitting easier, holes have been slightly indented on the body; they just need drilling out.
Couplings are left for the user to decide based upon preference; just pop in your preferred coupling type. Alternatively ignore that and slot a scale coupling through the rectangular hole in the buffer beam on the body. A third option is to utilise the slightly indented holes on the bottom of the chassis at the front by drilling them out; this is to locate a home made goalpost from Brass or Nickel Silver rod that is compatible with Tension Lock Auto-Couplers.
To fit the chassis to the body, the rear simply slots in the body at an angle. The front is fixed via a screw or bolt that taps easily and is all that is needed, a nut can be glued in place inside the Smoke-Box Saddle if desired. This body shell can be fixed to several Ready To Run (RTR) chassis with a little tweaking, alternatively a specially designed chassis is also available separately either in 00 or P4..
CHASSIS INSTRUCTIONS: Please see the Chassis themselves for more information.
For wheels, axles, crankpins etc
Alan Gibson is a great resource
...as is Markits
For Motors and Gearboxes, High Level are recommended.
For the L&YR Class 28 and a few others, to allow your model to be motorised without having to hack away at the underside of the firebox or boiler as is common with many of kits depending what parts you use, a Roadrunner Compact + Gearbox and a 1220 Mashima Motor from High Level will fit nicely, although it is rather small and may lack power if the trains are too long. If using this combination the gearbox sides will need to be packed width ways with plasticard or similar, these components were used in the research and development trial builds.
EDIT: Future builds have shown that a London Road Models GB4 Single stage Motor Mount (Gearbox) fits better, is cheaper and quicker to build. As with all loco kits the choice is entirely yours though.
For a video series on building SCC locomotive kits...