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3D printed in white nylon plastic with a matte finish and slight grainy feel.
This is a 4mm / 1:76.2 model of a flush riveted 3500 gallon Fowler Tender, available in WSF or FUD.
The only difference between this and the normal version is that the horizontal strengthening strip is theoretically on the inside instead of the outside giving the model a more flush appearence.
However, new evidence has come to light with photographic proof that sometime in WWII at least one of these Fowler tenders recieved a Deelely rebuild and as a result looks 95% the same as this. Awesome, not so freelance after all.
The two buffers are sprued on to the model at the top.
The two vents are sprued also due to there being a couple of different places they were positioned. Fit these as per prototype photograph examples. Pilot holes have been designed in to make locating and fitting easier.
A choice of bulkhead details are also avilable due to variations on the prototype; the earlier toolbox and the later coal doors. Simply remove them from the sprues and fit your choice, if fitting the earlier toolbox the rear of the box has part of the bulkhead included so it fills the hole. it may need a little bit of filler for a flush fit afterwards.
The main coal space which the above is fitted to is sprued on to give access to the tender inside should you wish to add weight or electronics such as DCC chips etc. The chassis is available seperately (in 00 & P4) on this website in WSF and BSF only, yet the instructions are written below also.
The chassis is essentially complete, all you need are 3 sets of 17mm diametre wheels and if you choose 6x 2mm brass 'straw hat' bearing cups. Test builds indicate the wheels roll nicely with or without bearing cups. If you are using the bearings then the holes will need reaming out slightly to accomodate them.
Fit one wheel to the end of a flush axle and thread a spacing washer or two on, then thread it through the bearing carrier (or bearing), then add a spacing washer or two then the wheel to the other side and gauge it with a back to back gauge, do this to all 3. The chassis fits to the body by slotting the front into the body at an angle and raising the rear until level, the hole in the chassis should line up with the hole in the body. Once done it is fitted with a screw or bolt, the model materials allow the screw or bolt to self tap and a retaining nut is not needed even after repeated removal and refitting, however space is reachable on the inside to add a nut if you prefer.
As an alternative you can cut the bearing carriers off completely but retain the brake gear, then use Pinpoint bearings instead for the wheels and seat the pin points into the indented cups on the inside of the frame, just lightly spring the model to fit them.
As a 3rd alternative if you are not using the optional chassis at all then you can use Pinpoint bearings as above but If using this method you will have to obtain/make your own brake gear.
Add the buffers, your choice of couplings and tender connector and you're ready to roll. After rubbing the model down painting can start.