This is an enclosure for the NanoKeyer. It looks really nice in any of the polished strong and flexible materials. If you've got money to burn you can have the front plate made in metal ;-)
This part is the body. You will also need the front part. The NanoKeyer is not included, of course.
Other required parts are
- four M3 hex head machine screws: two M3x6mm and two M3x20mm
- four glue-on rubber feet.
Before proceeding, I would suggest to spray on several thin layers of a good quality clear coat all over the enclosure.
In order to make the box as small and cheap as possible, there is some work to be done to fit the board.
- trim 0.2mm from each edge of the board
- make sure the buttons are mounted on the 'other' side
- do not mount the potentiometer yet
- you have two choices for the buzzer: if you want the buzzer sticking out of the enclosure, do not mount it yet, but solder two wires of 20-30mm on the button side of the board, otherwise mount it on the component side and glue a piece of cloth over the hole on the inside of the enclosure (or do something else creative)
- keep the wires of the leds as long as possible but make sure they are even.
- trim the top of 6,3mm jack (see picture)
- cut or remove the Arduino Nano 6 pin ISP header.
At this point I would suggest to temporarily install the potentiometer and the buzzer, and thoroughly test the NanoKeyer.
Now you can slide the board in. Push in the pushbuttons and pry them into the openings.You may need to help the USB mini connector of the Arduino to slide into its slot. It should all fit, but it IS tight.
If you wanted to mount the buzzer outside, solder it to the two wires and carefully slide them together into the hole. If it fits, and works, you can later fix it to the board with hot glue.
Through the rear two holes on the bottom, insert 3Mx6 hex head machine screws and screw down the rear of the board. Be careful not to overtorque as you are threading into nylon. Check that the heads are just touching the PCB.
Bend the led wires snakewise.
Install the potentiometer without soldering it yet.
Now is the time to do a test fit of the front panel. Check that you are happy with the potentiometer position. If unsure, enlarge the hole. Remove the front and solder the potentiometer.
Put the front back, and fix it with the two M3x20 hex head machine screws in the front holes on the underside. Again, do not overtorque or use the wrong type of screws. The size of the hex heads will help keep the front in place.
Glue the rubber feet over the holes in the bottom.