Bandai 1:350 Falcon. Set 3: the Ramp and Gear.
This is one of the more complex accurizing sets I've produced, in terms of the amount of work required to install. This consists of the loading ramp and landing gear legs for the Bandai 1:350 Falcon starship model.
Because the 1:350 kit is designed to be shown in-flight only, it doesn't have openings for either the ramp or the landing gear, the way its 1:144 sibling does. So to install these parts you have to cut precise rectangular openings in the lower saucer. I'd recommend cutting a slightly smaller hole, and carefully filing and cutting the opening to fit the parts. Then you can glue the parts in place and patch with putty if required.
Please read the following if you're interested in these items.
These accurizing parts are not mass-market commercial products. I made them for my own use, and have put them here in case they're of interest to someone else. Possibly you, since you’re reading this.
These are components for the serious model maker who wants to build a more accurate miniature. They require a lot of fiddling and careful installation. If you don't want to trim, file, sand, and glue, then these aren't the parts you're looking for!
The parts are tiny, and easily broken. They push the limits of today's 3D printers. The detail in the digital previews is all there, but it won't always be visible at the miniscule sizes that this scale requires!
This is a fixed loading ramp permanently in the down position, since it was too difficult to make a reliably movable ramp at this minute scale. The struts are a bit oversized, but unfortunately necessarily so to be printable and not too fragile. The ramp is constructed in two sections to facilitate painting of the interior.
The top of the ramp includes a very short segment of the internal corridor, including the famous Falcon hall cushions. Note that there's technically an error here - I modelled the corridor straight, but on the actual set it was curved. This, and the narrowness of the hallway, is intentional. Because of tight clearances with the gunbays I didn't want to have a protruding part. However, you can't tell when you look up from the outside. There are small holes on the corridor wall and the ramp ceiling for fibres, so you can install lighting if you want.
The 350 Bandai is a replica of the original 1977 ANH Falcon, which has three landing gear boxes with five legs. The ESB Falcon, and all others following, have five boxes with seven legs. I've modelled the ANH three landing gear in three separate parts each.
First, there are three simple top parts which need to be glued to the interior of the saucer, inside the holes you've cut. These have no detailing since they're not really visible, but serve as the mounting point for the legs. They need to be attached extremely firmly, since these are the parts which bear the upward force of the model's weight. Because of the trickiness required to cut the saucer, I didn't make these parts fully enclosed. (it would have required either parts too thin to print or significant cutting back of the Bandai plastic) If you're planning on lighting the engines you may need to add thin bits of styrene sheet to fill the side holes.
Next, there are the landing gear hatch doors. These are designed to represent the film set's doors, though the detailwork is a bit of an approximation as the available photographic documentation is a bit hard to come by. The doors are formed with rectangular brackets that fit into the opening, and so they need to be fitted before you glue the legs into place!
One cool aspect to this design, incidentally, is that the doors conceal the long edges of the rectangular hole, so if your hole in the saucer isn't perfect they'll be partly covered up. The frame doesn't help conceal flaws in the short edge of the hole, though.
Finally, there are the legs and feet themselves. These have been designed to resemble the original set's landing gear as much as possible, though of course the struts and discs had to be thickened somewhat. Because the acrylic plastic is so brittle, I also designed the thickest struts to be hollow. You can carefully drill out these holes, and gently remove the support wax, using a 0.5mm drill bit. And then you can insert a length of 0.5mm thick brass wire to help give the legs a bit more lateral strength. The wires should terminate at the very tip of the strut, so upwards pressure pushes against the box. Be really careful - the legs are exceedingly easy to break, and you also don't want the drill bit snapping off inside the strut!
Obviously there are no landing gear cables supplied with this set - for that you could use the thinnest magnet wire you can find, painted black, hanging in loops.