Painting Stainless Steel

Discussion in 'Finishing Techniques' started by artur83, Jun 22, 2010.

  1. artur83
    artur83 New Member
    So we've apparently published this tutorial last month, but forgot to announce it with all the other things happening here (glass, gold, maker-faire, other stuff ;) )

    Here's a link to what you can do with the Metal parts once they arrive: rial

    P.S.: this also works for glass, and if you guys want we'll do a tutorial on that as well.

  2. GlenG
    GlenG New Member
    Hello Artur,
    There are some other kitchen oven fired products that would also work on the SS material. One is called "Ceramit" which is a 2 part resin that requires low heat to set. After firing it can be sanded and polished. It can fill fairly deep pockets in one application and It is much more durable/harder than Pebeo. It can be found through jewelry supply stores in the U.S. not sure of Euro sources. Let me know if this is of interest and i will find a few links to the product for you.

  3. artur83
    artur83 New Member
    Hi Glen,
    Thanks for the reply.
    If you have worked with the Ceramit before, or if you have some, it would be nice to see a tutorial of it. I'm sure it would be of interest to quite a few members that want to finish off their SS prints.
    Do you know if it works on glass? I'd imagine that there are clear / transparent versions of Ceramit. Could be worth experimenting.
  4. GlenG
    GlenG New Member
    Yes I have used the "Ceramit" product before but only on metal. Given the low firing range it should work on glass as well.
    The material is a two part resin. Once it is mixed the material is usable for several hours. It will slowly harden on it's own but it only cures properly when heated to 200F. It is available in opaque and transparent shades. It can be applied with a brush but this needs to be done quickly because after about 2 hours it becomes too thick to flow off a paintbrush. At this point it is is better to apply with a small spatula. I have even put it into small disposable syringes when filling in small pockets. It can be applied about 3-4mm at a time this way.
    I will tell you that it is somewhat more messy than water based Pebeo. It requires a special solvent to clean up any mess you make. It is very hard on paintbrushes and it ruins then if left to harden on them. The good things about this material is that it cures quite hard. It can be filed or sanded and can be polished to some degree.
    I will hunt around for a proper tutorial and forward you a link if i find it. Listed below are two sources in the U.S. The pricing seems to be the same. It is possible you may be able to find it "across the pond" Check with suppliers who sell jewelry making supplies.

    -G erby&sort_direction=0&page=1
  5. Whystler
    Whystler New Member
    So ...

    The Ceramit product cures at 200 F , and Glen's product cures/melts at 340 F...

    The Alumide material has a stated melting point og 172 C, which is roughly 340 F. I guess that leaves out the possibility of using Glen's product on it.

    But would the Ceramit work on it? Or will it chemically melt the nylon in the Alumide material?

  6. GlenG
    GlenG New Member
    Not sure where I mentioned a 340F temp ?

    Some of the info I related about his material in an earlier post is not completely accurate (Alzheimer's?) What follows is closer to the facts.

    I am reading off a can of "Ceramit" as I write these notes. Here is my interpretation.

    This material is an Acetate based resin, it contains Xylene, it is flammable. So it might attack some of the plastic based print media. Because of it's solvent base, proper ventilation and good housekeeping is a must for safe working conditions. As with any resin product it can be messy and a nightmare to clean up. Plan on this! Don't use this stuff in you kitchen!

    It comes in many colors including a group of transparents. When cured it is quite hard and tough. No, it is NOT glass hard but it will not scratch off with you fingernail and it is much more durable than Pebeo and other heat cured acrylic paints. In many ways it is similar to working with epoxy or polyester resins. It is better to build up several thin layers rather than filling deep pockets all at one time. Applying too much at one time can cause bubbles to form and this is not pretty.

    Ceramit cures most effectively between 200F -300F (93C - 149C). But it will also cure at room temperature (above 70F) if left for 24 -48 hours. Once mixed, the working pot life is 14-16 hours. This can be extended by refrigeration. Personally, I only mix tiny amounts, use what I need then dispose of leftovers.

    The working properties of Ceramit can be tailored to specific requirements of your project. Viscosity can be altered to optimize methods of application, such as: brush, spatula, spray, eye dropper, etc. Also, depending on mix ratios, you can adjust the final hardness of the coating. So if you apply this material to a springy plastic part you might want a more flexible coating. If it is applied to glass or metal you can adjust the ratio to get the hardest surface possible. Nice feature that!

    It is an interesting product. It is modestly priced. Because it allows the user to alter it's working properties it encourages experimentation, and I am all for experimenting these days!

    Now you know what I know, have at it.


    Last edited: Jul 16, 2010