Jewelry Designers

Discussion in 'Other Interest Groups' started by EleanorW, Aug 4, 2014.

  1. DBTops
    DBTops Well-Known Member
    Nope, that's actually Black Strong and Flexible. They are also printable in steel though.
     
  2. halcyonflow
    halcyonflow Member
    Hey Dalton,

    They certainly look pretty cool... very ornate with a dark edge (kind of like a Tim Burton film). I like them.

    How do they go hanging by the ear with the splayed points near the bottom of the lantern? Looks like they might sit against the neck, which might be uncomfortable for some (not because they are sharp, just because they might constantly touch). Any decently long term wearing tests done?

    Also, I realise it's a bit delicate in places, but can the model be shrunken at all? Is that as small as it can get based on proportions? I thought maybe a smaller, more delicate version in silver might be nice. Of course, it would have to pass the material tests and so on.

    Nice one, though :)

    hal
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2015
  3. DBTops
    DBTops Well-Known Member
    @Halcyonflow, Thanks for the complement. I'm a Tim Burton fan so its no wonder my art reminds you of him. I gave a pair to my Girl and they don't seem to poke her at all. The pair she wears is black strong and flexible, so they are very light weight and have some give to them.

    I also designed a new ring this morning, the Wild Berry Ring. Check it out. http://shpws.me/HRGs


    Wildberry Ring - Gold.jpg
     
  4. OddEntity
    OddEntity Member
    Hey everyone,

    The designs I've seen in this thread are inspiring!

    I'm just getting started on Shapeways, and am playing around with all sorts of idea and concepts. I've never dabbled in jewelry design, but have a functional question. When designing a pendant, how big a hole do you typically leave for a necklace chain?

    Thanks all, and it can't be said enough, amazing work everyone.
     
  5. energywave
    energywave Member
    Hello OddEntity,
    I totally agree, the designs here are very inspiring! I don't have an "official" answer but an empirical one. I was in doubt myself too when designing my first pendants :) So I've measured my wife pendants hole and they was nearly all 3mm internal diameter.
    So my first design had 3mm internal diameter hole and I've seen that my wife silver and gold necklace chains fitted perfectly in the hole. On one chain it's difficult to insert the final piece (the one where you close the chain) but all my wife chains are ok.
    From there on I've designed all pendants with 3mm internal hole and my wife is wearing all of them without problems.
    I've attached one of my last (my wife favourite :) ) and here are all public pendants I've designed: 3DLAB pendants on Shapeways

    Lightbox shoot 1.jpg

    Have fun designing your object, that's the most important thing ;)
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2015
  6. OddEntity
    OddEntity Member
    Thank you very much for your guidance, and that's a great pendant! I have a few models I'm working on now, and just waiting to get enough together to test in WSF before making the jump to any of the metals.

    Here's another question. I can see and follow the design rules well enough for the metals (bronze/silver/etc...), but I still wonder about minimum thicknesses and clearances. When Shapeways says they can print wires 1mm in diameter, how flimsy is that really? Do most of you normally print with thicker wires out of experience, or do you push it right to the limit? Same goes for clearance, does 0.3mm really work, or do you go wider?

    Thanks!
     
  7. Daphne
    Daphne Well-Known Member
    It completely depends on the design of the part. I made a bracelet once with 1 mm wires. It looked so fragile, I was afraid to wear it. Bracelets and rings have to endure a lot (knocking on stuff, putting on a coat etc), while earrings and pendants just hang around.

    I just received these earrings in brass:
    20150526_110419.jpg
    I completely love them!
     
    EvieL likes this.
  8. numarul7
    numarul7 Well-Known Member
    Minimum wires is 1.5 for things and thickness 1.2 for surfaces. It is always better to experiment.

    WSF is good to test designs for CAST METALS as long if you use 1.2 mm thickness in general.

    :)
     
  9. MitchellJetten
    MitchellJetten Shapeways Employee CS Team
    Just sharing a picture of a ring I made for friends.

    20150518041819.jpg
     
  10. 3D3e
    3D3e Member
    Photo Mar 14, 6 12 28 PM.jpg May I ask what software do you use to design your tie clips? So far, what I do is design the piece, which I then attach to a tie clip blank but the quality of the blanks is not good. I design that just for myself (tie clips and cufflinks). I'm new to Shapeways and this opens a lot of possibilities for my designs, if I can make them all in one piece, rather than using blanks. Below is a prototype to explain what I do at home (the print is low-resolution just to see how would the tie clip would look like).

    Thanks in advance.

     
  11. energywave
    energywave Member
    Here is a perfect example about the thin wires question! :) My first pendant that I printed in premium silver had that support in the upper side made of thin wires of exactly 1mm diameter. It works well, my wife used it a lot and it didn't broke. But frankly I'll not design again those thin wires! It made me worry every time I see the pendant... You can imagine when my little daughter wants to "play" with it... :D But it didn't broke. It's still beautiful as when arrived from Shapeways.
    Here is the pendant:
    DSCF3765 watermark.jpg
    Here the product page: http://shpws.me/EPZ7
     
  12. numarul7
    numarul7 Well-Known Member
    @energywave Try to make structural parts at least 1.5 mm so it won`t be so "delicate"
     
  13. energywave
    energywave Member
    Yes, I totally agee numarul7, that would be better! When I designed that heart, I wanted the structural part to be less visible as possible. I imagined it as a continuum with the neck chain so it had to be as thin as possible.
    However 1mm is too thin. It works but it's too fragile, for my taste. I now prefer another kind of support, I used it in all my last pendants, like this one:

    Lightbox shoot 2 Shapeways WATERMARK.jpg
     
  14. pendarestan
    pendarestan Well-Known Member
    Hello jewelry designers! I've been impressed with the many nice pieces in this thread and in your shops, so I thought I would join the discussion.

    You might have seen one of my other posts on the forum. While a lot of my recent work has been in mathematical art, I've always been interested in traditional styles of ornamentation (in fact the first printable model to be made available in my shop was an arabesque lattice).

    I'd like to ask for your opinion on my latest design. I've created these earrings, designing for the semi-precious and precious metals. I was inspired by Mughal Indian decorative arts, a result of peaceful and not so peaceful interactions between so many cultures through the millennia, but often produced by those who would rather create than destroy.

    [​IMG]

    I've put it in Beta and played around with branding and writing sales copy.

    Concerns:

    [list type=square]
    [*] These pass the automated checks for semi-precious and precious metals. However, I'm seeing little red spots (detected thin spots) on the petals of the floral portions. In my experience here inside corners are often incorrectly marked as thin. Are there places on the model that I need to redesign?
    Mughal chandelier earrings I polished silver checks.jpg
    [*] These are just over 1mm thick everywhere. What's your opinion on that thickness with earrings? I'm looking at @energywave because of his curious daughter.
    [/list]

    Thanks for reading. Tell me what you think! :)
     
  15. 3D3e
    3D3e Member
    These are beautiful!! I wouldn't think there is a problem if your minimum thickness is over 1mm overall but ordering a pair for yourself to examine would be the best way to really look at the end result.
     
  16. pendarestan
    pendarestan Well-Known Member
    Thank you. :) I agree with your advice. Unfortunately circumstances don't allow me to order too much from Shapeways, and these materials are on the expensive side.

    What materials can you print in to get the polished brass, bronze, and silver materials marked as printable? The requirements are similar across the polished ones, so I'd think a brass print would make this a polished silver product as well (and for the raw finishes, maybe premium silver).

    Until I order them, I'll leave them in Beta. Maybe someone will try them out. :)
     
  17. Sabaku_Ika
    Sabaku_Ika Well-Known Member
    I just invented a new category of jewelry (I think): Eyeglass Caps (working name). I haven't printed/tested the idea yet, but I think it should work. I designed three versions so far http://shpws.me/IyFA, http://shpws.me/ICmw, and http://shpws.me/ICcr. The third is a blank downloadable template that can be turned into anything. I have them available in only plastics so far for weight reasons, but once they are tested and if they prove to be even lighter than expected, I will add other materials. Any thoughts?
     
  18. Very nice.. I love spiral shapes...
     
  19. Kearworks
    Kearworks Active Member
    Finally got around to creating another tie bar for myself. I got the idea after going to the beach this summer.
     

    Attached Files:

  20. Inktrix
    Inktrix Member
    Hi all,

    There's some great looking jewellery on this thread, very inspiring!

    I'm looking to print some rings in polished silver. With a view to keeping the file size and face count down, how low can I go on the mesh resolution for the band of a ring, for it to still come out smooth when printed and finished?

    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2015