1/18 Sturmgeschütz Iv

Discussion in 'My Work In Progress' started by Arkhan, Oct 28, 2016.

  1. Arkhan
    Arkhan Member
    Hi there,

    I'm working on one of my biggest project, even still I begin 3d modeling 1 month ago, It's a Sturmgeschütz IV
    I Have made appoximately between 40 and 50% of the work : I 've modelled The crew hull, the motor hull, part of the fonctionnal 75mm canon (functional in elevation and traverse). Im still working on the commander and the MG gunner turret. I plan to do functional hatch, wheel, and tracks.
    So I need some help upon this detail and some opinion obout the work I've done (I'm working on blender 2.78)

    All part seen
    Stug IV.png

    Motor hull
    Stug IV-motor.png
    Crew hull
    Stug IV-crew hull.png
    Crew hull with Commander turret
    Stug IV-crew hul and commander turretl.png
    Canon
    Stug IV-canon.png
    I would like to have some advice upon which material could fit to this project and modelling proccess

    I also plan to separate part as seen on this model notice image009.jpg
    Thnaks in advance :)
     
    shawn_halayka likes this.
  2. NoahLI
    NoahLI Well-Known Member
    Looks good so far! I printed one model that big... actually little smaller at 32cm length. Stug IV at 1/18 is around 38cm length. Be prepared to spend a lot of money.
     
  3. Arkhan
    Arkhan Member
    Yes I'm prepared ^^
    I've uplaod some of the part to see what was wrong, and I've also check the price by the way, I think it will be around 500€ or more :p
     
  4. Arkhan
    Arkhan Member
    At the moment that I write this, I'm working on thr elevation and traverse mechanisim.
    I've take sample from my 21st century Pak 40. The only problems that i enconter is :
    1- How to do a screw thread with blender?
    2- Did the material is resistant for the part that will maintain the elevation
    mechanisim.png

    Elevation mechanisim
    elevation gate.png
     
  5. Arkhan
    Arkhan Member
    Working on the turret's MG34, the most ennoying part to do : the stock. And this one is the most difficult that I've done. I will let you guess why with a pic.
    MG34-GNPT-XX08-BKXX-E11D-2.jpg
     
  6. NoahLI
    NoahLI Well-Known Member
    Is it really necessary to replicate, or even do a mechanisim for traverse and elevation? are you planning to add remote controls? Even so, basic pivots and lever arms would work well internally.

    I think you mean gear teeth? you can place a series triangles along the circumference for that. Screw threads are more difficult. I doubt SW materials are either detailed enough or strong for practical screw threads
     
  7. Arkhan
    Arkhan Member
    It's for stop motion and diorama purpose mainly. I wish to do it much realistic as possible.

    And yeah it's gear teeth, it will be here only to maintain the elevation.

    In my mind the screw was for the traverse, but I gave up so the traverse will be on pivot.

    P.S : I haven't gave all information before so, sorry

    elevation gate + canon.png
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2016
  8. NoahLI
    NoahLI Well-Known Member
    I'd rely on friction to hold elevation and traverse. or add groves for small O-rings to go between friction surfaces
     
  9. Arkhan
    Arkhan Member
    Ok
    I think that I see how to do that
    Thanks :)
     
  10. NoahLI
    NoahLI Well-Known Member
    can't tell what's in the picture. that the traverse? or elevation.

    You don't really need to build specific mechanisms. so long as the surfaces are in contact when assembled, the rough finish of flexible plastic will do the job. Just model the parts without the 0.5mm clearance according to the material guide. That's mean for interlocking bits.

    At 1/18 scale the parts should be large enough that if you want make space for rubber grommets or o-rings for mating surfaces you can, but not required.
     
  11. Arkhan
    Arkhan Member
    It was for elevation, but I see a big problem with what I have done, so it goes to trash.

    Ok, thanks again :)

    For the tracks, which material could be the best? I wish that my Stug could drive.
     
  12. NoahLI
    NoahLI Well-Known Member
    you'd have to do the links individually if printing, possibly as interlocked track; or pull the rubber part from some other kit. I never tried something that complicated. You'd have to look at the size of each link and see if there's enough material to allow for the 0.5mm clearance for interlocking part. I'm guessing the links would have to be at least 4mm thick,
     
  13. Arkhan
    Arkhan Member
    OK,thanks

    I see a bunch of work to do far away ^^