Hey Panascape,
I've got a bit of professional experience with designing for and using threaded brass inserts in injection molded Nylon parts. The 3D printed Nylon is similar enough in my opinion.
The temperature situation is transient rather than steady state. That is, if you heat your insert to the melting temp of the plastic, as soon as it makes contact with the Nylon and you get some heat transfer, the temperature will drop significantly, and you'll be sitting there slowly warming up your plastic part to where large portions of it start to warp and not getting anywhere. The trick is to go hotter than melting, but lower than burning to avoid discoloration and fires. Luckily that window is pretty broad. The hotter the temperature, the faster you'll be able to dump heat into the plastic, melt it, and move it out of the way, and the quicker you'll be able to remove the heat source and avoid spreading the heat to too much of your part. The sweet spot you're going for is a temperature that gives you the most control during the pressing operation, 2-3 seconds to drive the insert all the way in with moderate pressure. The only thing to watch out for is driving your insert too deep. A flanged insert is a lot easier in that respect as it gives you a very definite stop to press against when its fully in.
According to the material datasheet for WSF (
https://www.shapeways.com/rrstatic/material_docs/mds-strongf lex.pdf) the melting point is around 180° C. You'll probably want to start with a soldering iron set to 200°C+ and experiment from there.
A special soldering tip is a complete waste of your time and money. Any soldering tip small enough to have it's end fit into the threaded hole will be good enough, just make sure it doesn't jam in the threads and releases cleanly. I've had a few inserts come right back out of the part when I was trying to remove the soldering iron. One trick you can try is to thread a long screw into the insert and manipulate it with some pliers with one hand while heating the screw and insert with the soldering iron with the other hand.
Hope this helps and please share how it turns out.