Bounding Box Fail

Discussion in 'My Work In Progress' started by Northern_Bridge_3D_Models, Aug 28, 2016.

  1. Attached Files:

  2. Youknowwho4eva
    Youknowwho4eva Well-Known Member
    I'm wondering if the 2 triangular beams don't meed the minimum thickness (that's not written in the guidelines) Are you sure these passed on their own?
     
  3. stonysmith
    stonysmith Well-Known Member Moderator
    It partly depends upon what you refer to as "failed". Many times the automated checks are SUGGESTIONS, not "failures".

    The edges of triangular sections are often flagged as errors, when they actually are not an issue.
    Just because an edge is flagged doesn't mean that it can't be printed.

    There are a couple of different ways of describing what will work, depending upon how technical of a description you are interested in. Neither of these are "official rules" - just a way that we designers have come to understand it.

    1) The angle of an edge needs to be greater than 52 degrees.
    2) At 2*MinimumWall back from the edge, the item needs to be MinimumWall thick. (for FUD, at 0.6mm from the edge, it needs to be 0.3mm thick)

    See the attached image.. your model has a sharp edge internally where two parts did not fuse together. I'd suggest fixing that.

    Second, @Youknowwho4eva is correct .. those two items that are 37mm*1mm are likely to be a problem. Not so much for the capabilities of the printer, but rather due to the fact that those parts are going to get broken/lost in post-processing. You should arrange something to trap/hold/protect them.

    Take a look at this model.. http://shpws.me/DNlx the lifeboats inside do not touch the frame, but they won't get lost during post production either..
     

    Attached Files:

  4. Thanks Guys. I've been away camping in a field with no internet!

    So (as its a scale model I can't bump it up in size) you suggesting that maybe I invert the lid and place the beams inside so they don't fall away when made? Would that work?

    As to the comment re the sharp edge inside, I'd not noticed a flag on the system.

    Regards

    Andy
    NB3DM
     

  5. I will double check later today.

    I have a classic car engine to fit back in a car first! Lol

    Andy
     
  6. Youknowwho4eva
    Youknowwho4eva Well-Known Member
    If you can, either connect the 2 parts with a sprue that you can cut away, or a cage that they can't escape from that you can cut them out of.
     
  7. I'd be open to suggestions on how to design a sprue? I'm using123D design. I'll see what I can muster up.

    Andy
     
  8. Youknowwho4eva
    Youknowwho4eva Well-Known Member
    All you need is to add a cylinder or 2 (I'd use at least 2, one may be rejected because it could break during cleaning, and even parts that are meant to break need to not break until we get them to you) between them that meet the minimum thickness for the material.
     
  9. Hi StoneySmith.

    Ive had a look at the photo you attached now I'm home. I have no idea how or why those edges are even there? or is that a cross section? (some of it may be as a result of the fact the very top was made of two opening doors on a hopper wagon lip. - the model was working out too expensive as the individual parts so I combined it as one model)

    Andy
     
  10. stonysmith
    stonysmith Well-Known Member Moderator
    Yes, i was showing a cross-section, and it indicates to me that the two pieces do not overlap the way you expect, but rather the have a very small gap between them.