knoted@fb09ef8@fb09ef8 Thanks for sharing the picture ! The different components work surprisingly well together :D
knoted@fb09ef8 Thanks for sharing the pic ! Yeah, these arm filler designs have gone through several revisions; the challenge was akin to trying to close an overloaded suitcase - close one end of the lid, the other end pops out. I've seen other arm fillers and they face the same challenge....but I think, after 6 prototypes, I managed to find a nice balance between the design fitting the silhouette of the arm and tabbing in securely. Tip ; if you want the arm fillers to tab in even more securely, you could put some sticky tape around any of the tabs where you want the fit to have more friction.
knoted@fb09ef8 ; It should work fine in red strong flexible polished. Press it in firmly. Tabs at the elbow section should grab around the outside if the arm. Transformation is unhindered.
knoted@moultondennis Basically, the amount of dye bath needs to be sufficient to submege all the parts you intend to color evenly, simultaniously. My pyrex bowl is rather wide with a 8inch diameter ; hence my dye bath needed to be about 450ML. So, this consisted of 150ML water, 125ML Liquid Teal and 175ML DyeMore Kentucky Sky.
I made sure to bring this mix to boiling point and I put the parts in the metal mesh sifter.
Then immediately pour the boiling mix into the pyrex bowl and dip the sifter with the parts into the dye bath for no longer than 20-25 seconds. That should get you the result as seen in the picture; but mind you....in certain light conditions it will still look different from the actual plastic - but that's no different with any other dye job or acrylic paint.
Also make sure, to stir the dye mix during cooking as you dont want pigment to shift and clump. Maybe you have some of the white sprue material left ; it might be a good idea to use that for an initial test in your dye bath. I hope this helps you to get the result you want. Oh btw....your copy has no elbow joint issues either side ?
knoted@moultondennis Indeed, back in December 2015 this was all new to me too. Just FYI to be on the safe side, a small guide:
1. Cut the parts from the sprue using precision pliers or quality nail clippers like these: http://tinyurl.com/y8m9v9gx
You should be able to cut the sprue precisely clean off, where it's attached to the model part, in order to avoid sanding work.
2. Then rinse the parts in a bowl of water and scrub them down with a soft toothbrush. This step is very important as you want to make sure no nylon powder residu is left in any creases.
3. Have your Rit Dye Liquid and/or Rit Dye More ready (both come in bottles, each bottle 207ML ) for your custom mix in a measuring cup. I would advise two thirds of dye and one third of water for the average dye bath. For the arms on my Kup I used 50% Rit Dye Liquid Teal and 50% RIt Dye More Kentucky Sky.
Then, pretty much follow the instructions from the Rit Dye lady : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a23MWZyL-fg
She uses tongs to fish her items out of the dye bath but I would advise a metal sifter, so you won't lose the smaller parts and all parts can be lifted out simultaniously. Timing is of the essence.
4. Once you are happy with the dye, rinse the parts off under running tapwater and let them dry.
goodluck & best regards,
knoted@moultondennis : I pre-ordered Takara Kup too, but as you can see in this picture, he still has very hollow forearms, no wristswivel like my design anddue to the lack of backpanels at the rounded shoulders, he will have a gap there in vehicle mode ; http://tinyurl.com/yaspwtpa
knoted@moultondennis : The set in the photographs is entirely made out of White Strong Flexible Polished material which has been custom dyed by myself.
In fact, I sent that particular set to Peaugh for a videoreview ( link is in the product description ). So yeah, you could dye it any way you want. If you can boil an egg in a stove pot, you can dye. All you need is Rit Dye, a pyrex bowl for the dye bath and a sifter to lift the parts from the dye bath as demonstrated here by the Rit Dye lady : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a23MWZyL-fg
I used Rit Dye Liquid Teal + Rit DyeMore Kentucky Sky. You could paint/spray brush, but I would advise dye because that never leaves rub spots.
TFW2005 thread on this set is here: http://tinyurl.com/y7hosh6s
Thanks for your purchase & goodluck !
knoted@tigerhawk533 Thanks ! Mind you; the parts come on a sprue.
To minimize sanding, I advise using a pair of really sharp & strong nailclip scissors, to cut sprue material off clean. From there on, assembly should be straightforward ( see attached pic).
knoted@iamthevetrep : Sure no problem. High Def Acrylate option is now added. Set B with the pointy index finger handsculpts is now available in this material as well. Please take note however, this set was designed for the Strong Flexible Polished materials in terms of tolerances and fit and it was successfully tested as such - but it's probably going to be OK for High Def Acrylate since that is a more accurate material.
knoted@cruizerdave@cruizerdave : Sorry but no. These arm fillers are specifically for Titans Return Powermaster Prime. I did however create 5mm round peghole hand add-ons for CW Magnus, although the design is untested as of yet : http://shpws.me/OkKP
knoted@SpinoGuy : Each set comes with both the right foot and the left foot. "Set A" simply designates the style. "Set B" consists of right & left foot as well of course, but in a slightly different style ( 2 extra nubs on the toes ). Also, in my shop you can find the same models cheaper because they are sprue linked. Exact same models, but you will have to cut loop sprues, although no sanding is required : http://shpws.me/OcuH