Tofty is selling 24 products in Maker/DIY section
by
Tofty
This is the second version of my small keychain tritium lantern for use with a 3x22.5mm tritium vial (tritium vial not included) and does not require a clear tube like my first version.
This model has been scaled for printing in stainless steel.
The attachment hole is 2mm wide and is perfect for a 10mm split ring (not included).
The tritium vial should be set using a UV activated optically clear adhesive such as Norland 61 or Loctite glass bond. These adhesives will cure in direct sunlight in an hour or so.
Due to potential irregularities in the stainless steel printing process some drilling may be required on the lanyard hole and tritium vial channel to ensure correct fit.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
This model has been scaled for printing in stainless steel.
The attachment hole is 2mm wide and is perfect for a 10mm split ring (not included).
The tritium vial should be set using a UV activated optically clear adhesive such as Norland 61 or Loctite glass bond. These adhesives will cure in direct sunlight in an hour or so.
Due to potential irregularities in the stainless steel printing process some drilling may be required on the lanyard hole and tritium vial channel to ensure correct fit.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
by
Tofty
This is a small keychain tritium lantern for use with a 3x22.5mm tritium vial (tritium vial not included).
As well as the tritium vial, a clear plastic spacer tube is required to fill the void between the tritium vial and inner wall of the holder body (not included).
The tube's dimensions should be around: 21mm long, 6mm OD, 3.1mm ID (due to the varying final dimensions of different materials the tube dimensions are approximate and may need adjusting).
The attachment hole is 2mm wide and is perfect for a 10mm split ring (not included).
The tritium vial and clear spacer tube should be set using a UV activated optically clear adhesive such as Norland 61 or Loctite glass bond. These adhesives will cure in direct sunlight in an hour or so.
This model has been updated, with a slightly larger head diameter, to allow printing in alumide
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
As well as the tritium vial, a clear plastic spacer tube is required to fill the void between the tritium vial and inner wall of the holder body (not included).
The tube's dimensions should be around: 21mm long, 6mm OD, 3.1mm ID (due to the varying final dimensions of different materials the tube dimensions are approximate and may need adjusting).
The attachment hole is 2mm wide and is perfect for a 10mm split ring (not included).
The tritium vial and clear spacer tube should be set using a UV activated optically clear adhesive such as Norland 61 or Loctite glass bond. These adhesives will cure in direct sunlight in an hour or so.
This model has been updated, with a slightly larger head diameter, to allow printing in alumide
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
by
Tofty
This is a small keychain tritium lantern for use with a 3x22.5mm tritium vial (tritium vial not included).
This model has been scaled for printing in stainless steel.
As well as the tritium vial, a clear plastic spacer tube is required to fill the void between the tritium vial and inner wall of the holder body (not included).
The tube's dimensions should be around: 21mm long, 6mm OD, 3.1mm ID (due to the varying final dimensions of different materials the tube dimensions are approximate and may need adjusting).
The attachment hole is 2mm wide and is perfect for a 10mm split ring (not included).
The tritium vial and clear spacer tube should be set using a UV activated optically clear adhesive such as Norland 61 or Loctite glass bond. These adhesives will cure in direct sunlight in an hour or so.
Due to potential irregularities in the stainless steel printing process some drilling may be required on the lanyard hole and tritium vial channel to ensure correct fit.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
This model has been scaled for printing in stainless steel.
As well as the tritium vial, a clear plastic spacer tube is required to fill the void between the tritium vial and inner wall of the holder body (not included).
The tube's dimensions should be around: 21mm long, 6mm OD, 3.1mm ID (due to the varying final dimensions of different materials the tube dimensions are approximate and may need adjusting).
The attachment hole is 2mm wide and is perfect for a 10mm split ring (not included).
The tritium vial and clear spacer tube should be set using a UV activated optically clear adhesive such as Norland 61 or Loctite glass bond. These adhesives will cure in direct sunlight in an hour or so.
Due to potential irregularities in the stainless steel printing process some drilling may be required on the lanyard hole and tritium vial channel to ensure correct fit.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
by
Tofty
This is the fifth version of my small keychain tritium lantern for use with a 3x22.5mm tritium vial (tritium vial not included) and does not require a clear tube like my first version.
The attachment hole is 2mm wide and is perfect for a 10mm split ring (not included).
The tritium vial should be set using a UV activated optically clear adhesive such as Norland 61 or Loctite glass bond. These adhesives will cure in direct sunlight in an hour or so.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
The attachment hole is 2mm wide and is perfect for a 10mm split ring (not included).
The tritium vial should be set using a UV activated optically clear adhesive such as Norland 61 or Loctite glass bond. These adhesives will cure in direct sunlight in an hour or so.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
by
Tofty
I present my single-piece prybar and nail lifting tool.
It comes with:
A range of metric hex drivers (5.5, 6, 7 and 8mm),
A bottle opener,
A 1/4" hex bit holder,
Two 1/4" hex driver points.
The centre cut-out will hold and store a standard PH2 or PZ2 25mm long quarter inch hex bit (not included).
Four o-rings are required to complete the assembly (10mm ID, 2.5mm diameter, not included)
This model is designed to be printed in Stainless Steel or one of it's variants.
Although all care has been taken to ensure this model is correctly sized, due to variations in the printing process, some filing may be required to ensure correct fitment of some of the tool interfaces.
I've been carrying this prybar around with my keys for a while now and it's functionality is just as i'd hoped with it not having let me down so far.
The prybar can be secured to a keychain or lanyard with a No.2 McGizmo clip or similar 25mm gate clip through the 5.5mm hex hole.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
It comes with:
A range of metric hex drivers (5.5, 6, 7 and 8mm),
A bottle opener,
A 1/4" hex bit holder,
Two 1/4" hex driver points.
The centre cut-out will hold and store a standard PH2 or PZ2 25mm long quarter inch hex bit (not included).
Four o-rings are required to complete the assembly (10mm ID, 2.5mm diameter, not included)
This model is designed to be printed in Stainless Steel or one of it's variants.
Although all care has been taken to ensure this model is correctly sized, due to variations in the printing process, some filing may be required to ensure correct fitment of some of the tool interfaces.
I've been carrying this prybar around with my keys for a while now and it's functionality is just as i'd hoped with it not having let me down so far.
The prybar can be secured to a keychain or lanyard with a No.2 McGizmo clip or similar 25mm gate clip through the 5.5mm hex hole.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
by
Tofty
I present my one-piece driver/spanner tool with a variety of different driver points:
6.5 x 1.2mm flat driver,
No.2 posidriv driver,
5mm hex driver,
4mm hex driver,
T25 torx driver,
1/4" hex bit driver,
13mm socket spanner.
An o-ring is required to complete the assembly to help hold a 1/4" square drive socket on the square post (5mm ID, 1mm diameter, not included).
This model is designed to be printed in Stainless Steel or one of it's variants.
Although all care has been taken to ensure this model is correctly sized, due to variations in the printing process, some filing may be required to ensure correct fitment of some of the drivers and/or spanners.
The tool can easily be secured to a keychain or lanyard with a 10mm split ring or a No.2 McGizmo clip or similar 25mm gate clip using the hole in the flat driver.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
6.5 x 1.2mm flat driver,
No.2 posidriv driver,
5mm hex driver,
4mm hex driver,
T25 torx driver,
1/4" hex bit driver,
13mm socket spanner.
An o-ring is required to complete the assembly to help hold a 1/4" square drive socket on the square post (5mm ID, 1mm diameter, not included).
This model is designed to be printed in Stainless Steel or one of it's variants.
Although all care has been taken to ensure this model is correctly sized, due to variations in the printing process, some filing may be required to ensure correct fitment of some of the drivers and/or spanners.
The tool can easily be secured to a keychain or lanyard with a 10mm split ring or a No.2 McGizmo clip or similar 25mm gate clip using the hole in the flat driver.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
by
Tofty
I present my second one-piece driver/spanner tool with a variety of different driver points.
This tool is designed to accept the carrying of either the Head Turner or Head Turner: Tofty Edition tools by mdahlgren on the 10mm hex post (head turner tools not included).
These tools contain a set of smaller drivers to compliment the Star Driver 2's own substantial set of tools:
6.5 x 1.2mm flat driver,
No.2 posidriv driver,
6mm hex driver,
10mm hex driver,
T25 torx driver,
T30 torx driver,
1/4" hex bit driver,
13mm socket spanner.
Most of the driver arms have a 1/4" hex profile to allow the attachment of torque-increasing bars and ratcheting tools to help drive stiff screws.
An o-ring is required to complete the assembly to help hold a 1/4" square drive socket on the square post (5mm ID, 1mm diameter, not included).
This model is designed to be printed in Stainless Steel or one of it's variants.
Although all care has been taken to ensure this model is correctly sized, due to variations in the printing process, some filing may be required to ensure correct fitment of some of the drivers and/or spanners.
The tool can easily be secured to a keychain or lanyard with a 10mm split ring or a No.2 McGizmo clip or similar 25mm gate clip using the hole in the flat driver.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
This tool is designed to accept the carrying of either the Head Turner or Head Turner: Tofty Edition tools by mdahlgren on the 10mm hex post (head turner tools not included).
These tools contain a set of smaller drivers to compliment the Star Driver 2's own substantial set of tools:
6.5 x 1.2mm flat driver,
No.2 posidriv driver,
6mm hex driver,
10mm hex driver,
T25 torx driver,
T30 torx driver,
1/4" hex bit driver,
13mm socket spanner.
Most of the driver arms have a 1/4" hex profile to allow the attachment of torque-increasing bars and ratcheting tools to help drive stiff screws.
An o-ring is required to complete the assembly to help hold a 1/4" square drive socket on the square post (5mm ID, 1mm diameter, not included).
This model is designed to be printed in Stainless Steel or one of it's variants.
Although all care has been taken to ensure this model is correctly sized, due to variations in the printing process, some filing may be required to ensure correct fitment of some of the drivers and/or spanners.
The tool can easily be secured to a keychain or lanyard with a 10mm split ring or a No.2 McGizmo clip or similar 25mm gate clip using the hole in the flat driver.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
by
Tofty
I present this 3" long prying tool, designed by myself and several other members of the Multitool.org forum.
This tool is officially sanctioned by the forum owners and the MT.O logo is present as a functional part of the tool.
As this is a forum project, no commission has been added to the price.
This is the 3mm thick version of this prybar, there is also a 5mm thick version.
This single-piece tool can be used as a prybar and nail lifting tool, but also has:
A range of metric hex drivers (2.5, 3.2, 4, 5, 5.5 and 7mm),
A bottle opener,
A 1/4" hex bit driver.
An o-ring can be installed in the tail to help secure a hex bit (6mm ID, 2mm diameter, not included)
This model is designed to be printed in Stainless Steel or one of it's variants.
Although all care has been taken to ensure this model is correctly sized, due to variations in the printing process, some filing may be required to ensure correct fitment of some of the hexes.
The prybar can be secured to a keychain or lanyard with a No.2 McGizmo clip or similar 25mm gate clip through the 1/4" hex hole or with a small split ring through the MT.O dot.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
This tool is officially sanctioned by the forum owners and the MT.O logo is present as a functional part of the tool.
As this is a forum project, no commission has been added to the price.
This is the 3mm thick version of this prybar, there is also a 5mm thick version.
This single-piece tool can be used as a prybar and nail lifting tool, but also has:
A range of metric hex drivers (2.5, 3.2, 4, 5, 5.5 and 7mm),
A bottle opener,
A 1/4" hex bit driver.
An o-ring can be installed in the tail to help secure a hex bit (6mm ID, 2mm diameter, not included)
This model is designed to be printed in Stainless Steel or one of it's variants.
Although all care has been taken to ensure this model is correctly sized, due to variations in the printing process, some filing may be required to ensure correct fitment of some of the hexes.
The prybar can be secured to a keychain or lanyard with a No.2 McGizmo clip or similar 25mm gate clip through the 1/4" hex hole or with a small split ring through the MT.O dot.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
by
Tofty
I present this 3" long prying tool, designed my myself and several other members of the Multitool.org forum.
This tool is officially sanctioned by the forum owners and the MT.O logo is present as a functional part of the tool.
As this is a forum project, no commission has been added to the price.
This is the 5mm thick version of this prybar, there is also a 3mm thick version.
This single-piece tool can be used as a prybar and nail lifting tool, but also has:
A range of metric hex drivers (2.5, 3.2, 4, 5, 5.5 and 7mm),
A bottle opener,
A 1/4" hex bit driver.
An o-ring can be installed in the tail to help secure a hex bit (8mm ID, 2mm diameter, not included)
This model is designed to be printed in Stainless Steel or one of it's variants.
Although all care has been taken to ensure this model is correctly sized, due to variations in the printing process, some filing may be required to ensure correct fitment of some of the hexes.
The tool can easily be secured to a keychain or lanyard with a 10mm split ring or a No.2 McGizmo clip or similar 25mm gate clip using the hole in the flat driver.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
This tool is officially sanctioned by the forum owners and the MT.O logo is present as a functional part of the tool.
As this is a forum project, no commission has been added to the price.
This is the 5mm thick version of this prybar, there is also a 3mm thick version.
This single-piece tool can be used as a prybar and nail lifting tool, but also has:
A range of metric hex drivers (2.5, 3.2, 4, 5, 5.5 and 7mm),
A bottle opener,
A 1/4" hex bit driver.
An o-ring can be installed in the tail to help secure a hex bit (8mm ID, 2mm diameter, not included)
This model is designed to be printed in Stainless Steel or one of it's variants.
Although all care has been taken to ensure this model is correctly sized, due to variations in the printing process, some filing may be required to ensure correct fitment of some of the hexes.
The tool can easily be secured to a keychain or lanyard with a 10mm split ring or a No.2 McGizmo clip or similar 25mm gate clip using the hole in the flat driver.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
by
Tofty
This is my single-piece spanner/wrench tool with a range of metric hex nut drivers (5, 5.5, 7, 8, 10, 13 and 17mm) and a 1/4" hex bit driver.
An o-ring is required to complete the assembly to help hold a 1/4" hex bit in the driver slot (7mm ID, 2mm diameter, not included).
This model is designed to be printed in Stainless Steel or one of it's variants.
Although all care has been taken to ensure this model is correctly sized, due to variations in the printing process, some filing may be required to ensure correct fitment of some of the hexes.
The tool can easily be secured to a keychain or lanyard with a 10mm split ring or a No.2 McGizmo clip or similar 25mm gate clip.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
An o-ring is required to complete the assembly to help hold a 1/4" hex bit in the driver slot (7mm ID, 2mm diameter, not included).
This model is designed to be printed in Stainless Steel or one of it's variants.
Although all care has been taken to ensure this model is correctly sized, due to variations in the printing process, some filing may be required to ensure correct fitment of some of the hexes.
The tool can easily be secured to a keychain or lanyard with a 10mm split ring or a No.2 McGizmo clip or similar 25mm gate clip.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
by
Tofty
I present the base section of my two or three piece bicycle tool set.
Specs:
15mm open ended pedal spanner,
14mm spanner,
12mm spanner,
9mm spanner,
8mm spanner,
1/4" hex bit driver,
5mm hex driver,
1/4" square driver,
Flat driver 5.5 x 1mm,
Phillips driver No.2,
Tyre lever,
Bottle opener.
An o-ring is required to complete the assembly to help hold a 1/4" square drive socket on the square post (5mm ID, 1mm diameter, not included).
This model is designed to be printed in Stainless Steel or one of it's variants.
Although all care has been taken to ensure this model is correctly sized, due to variations in the printing process, some filing may be required to ensure correct fitment of some of the drivers and/or spanners.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
Specs:
15mm open ended pedal spanner,
14mm spanner,
12mm spanner,
9mm spanner,
8mm spanner,
1/4" hex bit driver,
5mm hex driver,
1/4" square driver,
Flat driver 5.5 x 1mm,
Phillips driver No.2,
Tyre lever,
Bottle opener.
An o-ring is required to complete the assembly to help hold a 1/4" square drive socket on the square post (5mm ID, 1mm diameter, not included).
This model is designed to be printed in Stainless Steel or one of it's variants.
Although all care has been taken to ensure this model is correctly sized, due to variations in the printing process, some filing may be required to ensure correct fitment of some of the drivers and/or spanners.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
by
Tofty
I present the T-Bar hex bit driver tool, a commissioned piece for JLara.
This is the 'A' model, with the unmodified keychain mounting point.
It's features include:
A prying tip,
An in-line 1/4" hex bit driver,
4 more 1/4" wrench or hex bit drive points,
Various other wrench sizes:
8mm (5/16"),
3/8",
10mm,
7/16" (11mm),
13mm (1/2"),
9/16" (14mm),
16mm (5/8"),
Storage space for three or possibly even four 25mm long 1/4" hex bits, depending on the type of driver tip (I haven't quite worked out yet how bits can be held in the centre of the tool),
A bottle opener.
Two o-rings need to be installed at the prying end to help secure a hex bit (7mm ID, 2.5mm diameter, not included).
Four o-rings are needed to secure the two hex bits into the storage slots (6mm ID, 2mm diameter, not included).
This model is designed to be printed in Stainless Steel or one of it's variants.
Although all care has been taken to ensure this model is correctly sized, due to variations in the printing process, some filing may be required to ensure correct fitment of some of the hexes.
The prybar can be secured to a keychain or lanyard with a No.2 McGizmo clip, similar 25mm gate clip or small split ring through the 3/8" hex hole at the top of the tool.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page
This is the 'A' model, with the unmodified keychain mounting point.
It's features include:
A prying tip,
An in-line 1/4" hex bit driver,
4 more 1/4" wrench or hex bit drive points,
Various other wrench sizes:
8mm (5/16"),
3/8",
10mm,
7/16" (11mm),
13mm (1/2"),
9/16" (14mm),
16mm (5/8"),
Storage space for three or possibly even four 25mm long 1/4" hex bits, depending on the type of driver tip (I haven't quite worked out yet how bits can be held in the centre of the tool),
A bottle opener.
Two o-rings need to be installed at the prying end to help secure a hex bit (7mm ID, 2.5mm diameter, not included).
Four o-rings are needed to secure the two hex bits into the storage slots (6mm ID, 2mm diameter, not included).
This model is designed to be printed in Stainless Steel or one of it's variants.
Although all care has been taken to ensure this model is correctly sized, due to variations in the printing process, some filing may be required to ensure correct fitment of some of the hexes.
The prybar can be secured to a keychain or lanyard with a No.2 McGizmo clip, similar 25mm gate clip or small split ring through the 3/8" hex hole at the top of the tool.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page
by
Tofty
I present the T-Bar hex bit driver tool, a commissioned piece for JLara.
This is the 'B' model, with an extended keychain mounting point.
It's features include:
A prying tip,
An in-line 1/4" hex bit driver,
4 more 1/4" wrench or hex bit drive points,
Various other wrench sizes:
8mm (5/16"),
3/8",
10mm,
7/16" (11mm),
13mm (1/2"),
9/16" (14mm),
16mm (5/8"),
Storage space for three or possibly even four 25mm long 1/4" hex bits, depending on the type of driver tip (I haven't quite worked out yet how bits can be held in the centre of the tool),
A bottle opener.
Two o-rings need to be installed at the prying end to help secure a hex bit (7mm ID, 2.5mm diameter, not included).
Four o-rings are needed to secure the two hex bits into the storage slots (6mm ID, 2mm diameter, not included).
This model is designed to be printed in Stainless Steel or one of it's variants.
Although all care has been taken to ensure this model is correctly sized, due to variations in the printing process, some filing may be required to ensure correct fitment of some of the hexes.
The prybar can be secured to a keychain or lanyard with a No.2 McGizmo clip, similar 25mm gate clip or small split ring through the 3/8" hex hole at the top of the tool.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page
This is the 'B' model, with an extended keychain mounting point.
It's features include:
A prying tip,
An in-line 1/4" hex bit driver,
4 more 1/4" wrench or hex bit drive points,
Various other wrench sizes:
8mm (5/16"),
3/8",
10mm,
7/16" (11mm),
13mm (1/2"),
9/16" (14mm),
16mm (5/8"),
Storage space for three or possibly even four 25mm long 1/4" hex bits, depending on the type of driver tip (I haven't quite worked out yet how bits can be held in the centre of the tool),
A bottle opener.
Two o-rings need to be installed at the prying end to help secure a hex bit (7mm ID, 2.5mm diameter, not included).
Four o-rings are needed to secure the two hex bits into the storage slots (6mm ID, 2mm diameter, not included).
This model is designed to be printed in Stainless Steel or one of it's variants.
Although all care has been taken to ensure this model is correctly sized, due to variations in the printing process, some filing may be required to ensure correct fitment of some of the hexes.
The prybar can be secured to a keychain or lanyard with a No.2 McGizmo clip, similar 25mm gate clip or small split ring through the 3/8" hex hole at the top of the tool.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page
by
Tofty
I present my sprued model of four 25mm long 1/4" hex insert driver bits.
Two of the bits have a No.2 Phillips-style driver profile (PH2) while the other two have a No.2 Pozidriv-style driver profile (PZ2).
The bits can be identified using small sections of 6mm diameter heat-shrink sleeving in different colours (not included).
Note:- The model has been modified since the initial printed bits shown in the pictures were received and tested; there is no longer a ring half-way up the hex section of the bit as it caused a problem with certain types of bit holder.
The individual bits will need to be separated using a Dremel tool (or similar) with a mini grinding disk attachment and the bits hex faces will need to be smoothed flat with sandpaper down to measure 6.35mm between faces.
These bits will not be nearly as strong as commercially available ones and exist purely as a test of printed stainless steel's detail resolution and strength limitations.
Although having said that they should be strong enough for use with hand tools, just not with power drivers and especially not with impact drivers.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
Two of the bits have a No.2 Phillips-style driver profile (PH2) while the other two have a No.2 Pozidriv-style driver profile (PZ2).
The bits can be identified using small sections of 6mm diameter heat-shrink sleeving in different colours (not included).
Note:- The model has been modified since the initial printed bits shown in the pictures were received and tested; there is no longer a ring half-way up the hex section of the bit as it caused a problem with certain types of bit holder.
The individual bits will need to be separated using a Dremel tool (or similar) with a mini grinding disk attachment and the bits hex faces will need to be smoothed flat with sandpaper down to measure 6.35mm between faces.
These bits will not be nearly as strong as commercially available ones and exist purely as a test of printed stainless steel's detail resolution and strength limitations.
Although having said that they should be strong enough for use with hand tools, just not with power drivers and especially not with impact drivers.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
by
Tofty
This is a small two part AAA LED torch (flashlight) host.
The internals needed are from an MXDL 3W Luxeon LED light (shown in one of the pictures).
To build this torch the following is required:
1. AAA 1 Torch Head (included),
2. AAA 1 Torch Tail (included),
3. MXDL 3W Luxeon LED AAA light (not included, but available on ebay and should only cost a few dollars so i advise ordering more than one).
4. Metal strip, 0.1mm thick, 5mm wide and 120mm long to create an electrical path from the negative end of the battery to the LED unit. (not included, use copper or aluminium if available but steel will also work)
To fit the electrical path strip: find it's midpoint then bend the strip up at 90 degrees 5mm from either side of the midpoint using the edge of a ruler to form a U shape.
Using a large flat bladed screwdriver press the strip into the Tail Unit making sure it rests on the hole's bottom and is correctly orientated with the cut outs.
Then press fit the spring from the MXDL torch into the tail so that it is retained in the base.
Install the battery to hold the sides of the strip in place and bend the protruding strip ends outwards, pressing them flush with the Tail Units top.
Then trim the strip ends to finish within the inner perimeter of the Tail Units threads.
Despite the MXDL's low price it is a very durable and relatively bright little light with the components easily removed from the doner light.
However if damage or failure were to occur, due to the ease and cheapness of replacements, the host light can be brought back to life without great expense or drama.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
The internals needed are from an MXDL 3W Luxeon LED light (shown in one of the pictures).
To build this torch the following is required:
1. AAA 1 Torch Head (included),
2. AAA 1 Torch Tail (included),
3. MXDL 3W Luxeon LED AAA light (not included, but available on ebay and should only cost a few dollars so i advise ordering more than one).
4. Metal strip, 0.1mm thick, 5mm wide and 120mm long to create an electrical path from the negative end of the battery to the LED unit. (not included, use copper or aluminium if available but steel will also work)
To fit the electrical path strip: find it's midpoint then bend the strip up at 90 degrees 5mm from either side of the midpoint using the edge of a ruler to form a U shape.
Using a large flat bladed screwdriver press the strip into the Tail Unit making sure it rests on the hole's bottom and is correctly orientated with the cut outs.
Then press fit the spring from the MXDL torch into the tail so that it is retained in the base.
Install the battery to hold the sides of the strip in place and bend the protruding strip ends outwards, pressing them flush with the Tail Units top.
Then trim the strip ends to finish within the inner perimeter of the Tail Units threads.
Despite the MXDL's low price it is a very durable and relatively bright little light with the components easily removed from the doner light.
However if damage or failure were to occur, due to the ease and cheapness of replacements, the host light can be brought back to life without great expense or drama.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
by
Tofty
This is the forth version of my small keychain tritium lantern for use with a 3x22.5mm tritium vial (tritium vial not included) and does not require a clear tube like my first version.
The attachment hole is 2mm wide and is perfect for a 10mm split ring (not included).
The tritium vial should be set using a UV activated optically clear adhesive such as Norland 61 or Loctite glass bond. These adhesives will cure in direct sunlight in an hour or so.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
The attachment hole is 2mm wide and is perfect for a 10mm split ring (not included).
The tritium vial should be set using a UV activated optically clear adhesive such as Norland 61 or Loctite glass bond. These adhesives will cure in direct sunlight in an hour or so.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
by
Tofty
This is the third version of my small keychain tritium lantern for use with a 3x22.5mm tritium vial (tritium vial not included) and does not require a clear tube like my first version.
The attachment hole is 2mm wide and is perfect for a 10mm split ring (not included).
The tritium vial should be set using a UV activated optically clear adhesive such as Norland 61 or Loctite glass bond. These adhesives will cure in direct sunlight in an hour or so.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
The attachment hole is 2mm wide and is perfect for a 10mm split ring (not included).
The tritium vial should be set using a UV activated optically clear adhesive such as Norland 61 or Loctite glass bond. These adhesives will cure in direct sunlight in an hour or so.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
by
Tofty
I present my triple tritium decorative bead, designed to take three of the 2.5x10mm tritium vials (tritium vials not included).
The central hole is 5mm in diameter and should just be wide enough for two lengths of 550 paracord.
The tritium vials should be set using a UV activated optically clear adhesive such as Norland 61 or Loctite glass bond. These adhesives will cure in direct sunlight in an hour or so.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
The central hole is 5mm in diameter and should just be wide enough for two lengths of 550 paracord.
The tritium vials should be set using a UV activated optically clear adhesive such as Norland 61 or Loctite glass bond. These adhesives will cure in direct sunlight in an hour or so.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
by
Tofty
Small pedal shaped tritium vial holding decorative bead with large side cut-outs, designed to take two of the 2.5x10mm tritium vials (tritium vials not included).
This model is sized for printing in either sterling silver or one of the various plastics available.
The central hole is 5mm in diameter and should just be wide enough for two lengths of 550 paracord.
The tritium vials should be set using a UV activated optically clear adhesive such as Norland 61 or Loctite glass bond. These adhesives will cure in direct sunlight in an hour or so.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
This model is sized for printing in either sterling silver or one of the various plastics available.
The central hole is 5mm in diameter and should just be wide enough for two lengths of 550 paracord.
The tritium vials should be set using a UV activated optically clear adhesive such as Norland 61 or Loctite glass bond. These adhesives will cure in direct sunlight in an hour or so.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
by
Tofty
Ever been fed up with the computer mouse cord getting snagged and tangled as it falls loose down the back of the desk?
If so this is my solution; a computer mouse cord holder/organiser that uses a standard M24 nut (not included) to add the weight needed to hold the cord in place
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
If so this is my solution; a computer mouse cord holder/organiser that uses a standard M24 nut (not included) to add the weight needed to hold the cord in place
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
by
Tofty
Bead B designed for Tyler.
It accepts one of the 2x6mm tritium vials (tritium vial not included).
The central pin is 4mm in diameter and 3.5mm long.
This model is sized for printing in stainless steel.
The tritium vials should be set using a UV activated optically clear adhesive such as Norland 61 or Loctite glass bond. These adhesives will cure in direct sunlight in an hour or so.
It accepts one of the 2x6mm tritium vials (tritium vial not included).
The central pin is 4mm in diameter and 3.5mm long.
This model is sized for printing in stainless steel.
The tritium vials should be set using a UV activated optically clear adhesive such as Norland 61 or Loctite glass bond. These adhesives will cure in direct sunlight in an hour or so.
by
Tofty
Bead D designed for Tyler.
It accepts two of the 2x6mm tritium vials (tritium vials not included).
The central pin is 4mm in diameter and 3.5mm long.
This model is sized for printing in stainless steel.
The tritium vials should be set using a UV activated optically clear adhesive such as Norland 61 or Loctite glass bond. These adhesives will cure in direct sunlight in an hour or so.
It accepts two of the 2x6mm tritium vials (tritium vials not included).
The central pin is 4mm in diameter and 3.5mm long.
This model is sized for printing in stainless steel.
The tritium vials should be set using a UV activated optically clear adhesive such as Norland 61 or Loctite glass bond. These adhesives will cure in direct sunlight in an hour or so.
by
Tofty
Bead A designed for Tyler.
It accepts three of the 1.55x5mm tritium vials (tritium vials not included).
The central pin is 4mm in diameter and 3.5mm long.
This model is sized for printing in stainless steel.
The tritium vials should be set using a UV activated optically clear adhesive such as Norland 61 or Loctite glass bond. These adhesives will cure in direct sunlight in an hour or so.
It accepts three of the 1.55x5mm tritium vials (tritium vials not included).
The central pin is 4mm in diameter and 3.5mm long.
This model is sized for printing in stainless steel.
The tritium vials should be set using a UV activated optically clear adhesive such as Norland 61 or Loctite glass bond. These adhesives will cure in direct sunlight in an hour or so.
by
Tofty
Bead C designed for Tyler.
It accepts three of the 2x6mm tritium vials (tritium vials not included).
The central pin is 4mm in diameter and 3.5mm long.
This model is sized for printing in stainless steel.
The tritium vials should be set using a UV activated optically clear adhesive such as Norland 61 or Loctite glass bond. These adhesives will cure in direct sunlight in an hour or so.
It accepts three of the 2x6mm tritium vials (tritium vials not included).
The central pin is 4mm in diameter and 3.5mm long.
This model is sized for printing in stainless steel.
The tritium vials should be set using a UV activated optically clear adhesive such as Norland 61 or Loctite glass bond. These adhesives will cure in direct sunlight in an hour or so.
Shop Details
This is my shop for some of the EDC (every day carry) items, Torches (flashlights) and functional jewellery that i have designed.
I hope to prove that this kind of 3D printing can be used for functional objects as well as cosmetic ones.
I hope you like my work so far and find it of interest.
If you have any comments or changes that you feel would benefit any of my models for your purposes let me know and i can see if they are inplementable.
Cheers,
Tofty
Expertise
- 3D modeler
- Designer
- Product designer
- Maker
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