This is my Eldritch Ring, based on my paintings of the same name. Unless you have some means of casting plastic into metal, I suggest ordering the steel version. In Steel, it's about US Ring Size 10. In plastic is Ring Size 11.

This is Punchy, the Robot-Buggy-Tank-3 Wheeled-Thing. He was made for my mod, Unreal4Ever, as a vehicle with physically attacks. Yup, he's a tank that punches other tanks! Or he would have been, but all of the programmers kinda took off at that point, mostly because Epic Games kept stealing our ideas without any credit and never promoted us.

Recently, when I was combing through my old models looking for something to make into a Toy through Shapeways, I found Punchy and resurrected the model. Punchy might never be in a game, but at least he'll live on as a cool Toy Kit.

His arms are held in by friction. The shoulder joints are so tight, a little sand paper might be necessary just to fit them in. The back and front wheels spin freely. A small bit of super glue attaches his neck joint to the body, as well as the Engine and front wheel spokes. The parts all arrive white and require some dusting. I'd suggest dusting, and then painting him completely, before gluing the parts together!

(Note to buyers, he's pretty large, so that $135 is almost all going to Shapeways. I earn enough for a hamburger and fries.)

80 Percent Smaller

It's hand translated by an amature (me), so it might not be completely accurate, but the characters should read, "Awaken my Power Father God Odin". The inside is smoothed, to make it easier to wear.

This is an early build of the Hanging Man Pendant. Due to it's very thin wrists, this version can not be printed in Steel, like the other version. It's also very low on polygons, make it rather faceted. As such, it does look rather nice printed in Transparent Detail, kind of like a gemstone, only soft and flexible. If you like this design but prefer something more robust and solic, please buy my other version.

As the name implies, this is a simple bracelet, designed for printing in "White Strong & Flexible". In that material it should fit even the largest wrists because of it's loose and flexible design.

The Bone Ring is a skull with a vertebra as the band. It has an Ankh hidden inside the back of the skull.

The Pendant has a loop on top of it's head for a necklace. The Pin as a nail on the back for wall mounting, like a thumb tack. The Pin version can not be printed in Steel, but works as a tack in WSF.

I'd recommend getting this version printed in Steel.

This item does not come with the Gemstone, only the Pendent itself. It's designed for a round Gemstone, around 5.31mm in size. It may or not not properly fit larger or smaller stones. As of such, if you have an interest in this Pendant, you should get an extremely accurate measure (within 1/100th of a Millimeter) and contact me with the size you need. Then I can scale up a version of the Pendant to match your needs.

The Embossing on the backside reads "Open Minds Opens Eyes"

This is a single Pendant, not 3. I'm showing 3 versions, in Steel, Bronze, and Gold-Plated Polished Steel so you can see the difference between them. Again, you only get ONE Mad Face!

The Mad Face Pendant is about 1.5" long and comes in Side-Loop and Forward Facing Loop. This version is the Side Loop (The Middle and Right Versions), so it's designed to hang on string, twine, or a very narrow chain. The other version as a Loop facing forwards (seen as the Steel version on the Left), so you can add an addition Split Ring to hang it on a larger chain.

The Inscription on the back says "Vox Penitus Hortor", which means "Voice Innermost Exhort", or "Release your Inner Voice". Or "Say what you think!" 

This is just one side of what I eventually made into the Illuminati Prime pyramid. It's too thin for Steel prints, but should work in Silver. The photo shows it printed in WSF w/Polish. If you need a flat, cheap Illuminati symbol, this will fit your needs.

This is a large version of my abstract Oak Stamp. The photo above shows it in WSF. It should be printable in metal, but I lack the funds to find out at this time. (12/15/11)

Fixing grammar error, decreased stone setting size to 4.8mm

This is an update to my original Philosopher Coin. It now has a hole for a Split Ring, for necklace mounting. The Philosopher Coin shows the geometric aliment between positive and negative effects of positive and negative actions. Being good as it's perks and it's downsides. So does being Evil. The arrows loop around to show, further illuminating the connection between polar opposites, such as selflessness and greed. The purpose of this coin is to provide fodder for consideration of one's actions as well as the actions of others.

This is the Yin Yanger, a pendant I made to test how to assembled multiple parts of different materials into a single object. The idea was to print each piece in a different kind of metal, but the project hasn't progressed past WSF due to funds. Above you see I printed this backing piece in White WSF.

This is the Yin Yanger, a pendant I made to test how to assembled multiple parts of different materials into a single object. The idea was to print each piece in a different kind of metal, but the project hasn't progressed past WSF due to funds. Above you see I printed this Hook piece printed in Red WSF.

This is a complete set of components to turn a normal Rubik's Cube into a Companion Rubik's Cube. You'll need Rubber Cement and Acrylic paint. Neither of these will chemically effect the "White Strong & Flexible" (WSF) material. Other glues and paints might. WSF is Nylon based, so anything that dissolves Nylon will destroy the WSF parts.

You'll need:
Rubber Cement (preferable with Applicator, like Testor Corp. 3507C Quick Dry Cement w/Applicator)
Acrylic Paints to match your Preferred color Scheme (you should figure this out BEFORE painting)
One - Winning Moves - Rubik's Cube 3x3 (roughly 18.5mm per sub-cube, 56mm total)

THIS KIT MAY NOT WORK WITH OTHER CUBES! Measure to be sure!

I take no responblity if you glue your cube together, have the wrong size Rubik's Cube, or mess up the Cube in any way. Plan it all out in advance. Read my instuctions and advice carefully! Put some peices on without glue, test how well it fits. Maybe Rubik's made some size changes over the years, get a new cube if you have to. Measure, check, double check, triple check! I almost ruined my own cube twice, so BE CAREFUL!

If you plan on Airbrushing or Spray-painting the pieces, do so BEFORE you glue them on, and DO NOT paint the underside of each piece. Paint on the inside of a piece might prevent the glue from sticking.

Here are the steps for construction:

#1. Add a layer of Rubber Cement to the inside of all of the WSF parts BEFORE attaching them to the Cube. This will fill in the micro-holes in the Porous WSF material. If you don't, the part will absorb the glue and fail to stick. Set them aside and allow them to dry for 2 hours. The glue must be given time to soak in.

#2. Peel off all of the stickers on the outside of the Rubik's Cube

#3. Glue on the Corners first! The corners will help guide you when you apply the edges and middle later on. Only glue and attach ONE piece at a time!

#4. Apply glue to all 3 surfaces of each corner of the cube itself, not the WSF part. Make sure not to apply too much. Keep about 1/8th inch, or about 4mm from the edges. You don't want to glue the cube together! Excess glue will go over the edges, and potentially destroy the Cube itself. USE CAUTION!

#5. Push the WSF piece on and hold for about a minute. If you do not apply pressure, the glue might not set.

#6. After a minute, carefully rotate the cube and make sure glue hasn't gone over the edges, and gotten between the sub-cubes. If it has, try to wipe off the excess. Be careful not to pop off the part you just glued on. I was able to wipe off excess glue between the sub-cubes within the first few minutes without problems. After putting on the Corners, allow the glue to dry for 2 hours.

#7. Level out the Rubik's Cube with a flat surface, like a table. Make sure all of the Sub-cubes are aligned. If you don't, you will have trouble getting the edge pieces on correctly.

#8. Using the Corner WSF pieces as a guide, evenly glue on the edge pieces just like you did with the corner. Attach one at a time, keep the glue away from the edges, use small amounts of glue, hold after gluing for a minute, and then check for glue over the edges. It's best to only attach 4 edges at a time, allowing 2 hours for the glue to set in between.

#9. After all pieces are glued and dried, use the same care when applying the paint. Make sure you don't get paint between the the sub-cubes, or inside the gaps of the cube. Doing so will impair, or might even destroy, the ability of the cube to function. If you wish the Cube to be a functional puzzle, use different colors on the inner surfaces of each side. Leave the edges white to maintain the Companion Cube's appearance. Then paint matching Heart logos on each of the center buttons.

#10. Pat yourself on the back, brag to friends and family! You're amazing and you have the cube to prove it.

This is the fully formed Illuminati I've been building towards with my work on the single side.It could be used as the top to a desk lamp, a paper weight, or maybe a signal to summon aliens, ghosts, or Elvis. I can't guarantee it will get you into any secret society or free money from the Federal Reserve.

This is my "Illuminati" Pendant. I've convert the ancient symbol into a physical pendant, suitable for hanging. In the photos you see a "White Strong & Flexible" version next to a Stainless Steel version. The plastic version is reasonably tough, but if you plan on using this for jewelry, or as a pull tab for a jacket or backpack, I would suggest getting the very strong Stainless Steel version. It should last you years of wear and tear. To attach to a Necklace or Pull Tab, use a Split Ring, like those used to attach keys together.

It should fit a size 10, 20mm finger.