The original 1/12 scale doll, 145mm tall when completed. I wanted to make a doll that lives through the way it moves and poses. I love stop motion, this is why it is possible to string it both with aluminium wire or doll string. I would advise the white strong and flexible material even if it requires sanding for a clean result. The frosted ultra detail is fine aswell but the wrist parts are so thin i added a few more on the sprue for safety. This is a model kit, which means you will need a few skills to achieve it. Please refer to the instructions for rigging (jpg picture available above). Thank you!


IN: 2.924 w x 4.939 d x 0.828 h
CM: 7.428 w x 12.546 d x 2.102 h


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@kurogane7. thank you very much for your kind comment! It helps keeping me going :)
June 28, 2014, 6:08 pm
I purchased this kit and it is truly amazing! I love the details and flexibility! I did have difficulties with using the aluminum wire (I'm not used to working with it, lol) but wire is a way better option than elastics. This is my first 3-D printed anything, and now I'm hooked. Thanks!
June 26, 2014, 8:29 pm
@Cwayview. Hi! You may also refer to these, which are for the FUD version:
May 7, 2014, 6:53 am
Can you please direct me to the assembly instructions. I lack the requisite talent without them. thanks
May 6, 2014, 8:25 pm
@Trethowan. hi! I'm sorry, the question has been answered before and the answer is "i'm not planning to do this". The biggest i made was 1/6 and it is already around 100$, so 1/3 would be easily around 400. I can't afford to pay even for a prototype at such a price, or my wife will kill me (and she would be right). My policy is to always run a prototype before trying to sell, but this is too expensive for me or what i earn form this activity.
May 3, 2014, 5:40 pm
This looks incredible! The mechanics seem really solid. I'm impressed with all of the poses it's able to do. Are these files able to be blown up to 1:3 scale dolls or is that not possible? (I don't know how the printing works so sorry if that's a dumb question.)
May 3, 2014, 3:11 am
@dylanfix. Hi! Thank you for your interest, but i stopped doing commissions a while ago, as i don't have no time left for creating my own products, and it is not cost efficient at all. Another specific reason would be that i don't have the licence to do such a thing. The clothes are very tricky to sculpt on such a model, as they would considerably alter the functionality. Thank you for understanding.
March 28, 2014, 11:17 am
hello there! I saw the 1/12 scale doll you created ,and thought it was very well done! I was wondering if you made certain things on order? if so I was wondering if it was at all possible to create Liara T-soni, from mass effect? or at least craft her head for a 7 inch scale figure? I have been trying to build my own through different means and it has been...less than successful, and was hoping someone with your abilities could possibly craft it for me? any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you!
March 27, 2014, 8:02 pm
@AliceZ. Hi! I'm sorry i don't know krylon brand, but as far as i could see it looks like it is epoxy based. If so, there will be no trouble. Avoid styren based glues, as they won't melt polyamide. I would recommend cyanoacrylate, even if it takes longer to cure on this kind of plastic but epoxy based glue would be the best especially if you need to heat the pieces. I ddin't try acrylic based products but they should work fine, especially if the surface is still rough, but i don't think they will behave correctly if exposed to heat. I'm sorry for the printing delay on your order, unfortunately i'm just the designer and i can't speed up the process. Maybe you should get in touch with them, but usualy, you can get a reliable information when you go to the passed orders page. Have a nice day!
March 8, 2014, 11:55 am
@Mr_props because others maybe interested, last night I tried putting my scrap sprues in the oven, with the paint on them for the recommended 8 minutes and they seemed fine when I took them out. but I will try a couple of more times before I am comfortable doing a whole thing. A couple of other questions, what glue works best on this plastic? I've bought a Krylon spray paint (NOT Fusion) that simulates stone. It says it can be used on plastic. Do know know if THIS plastic should be OK using it? I am eagerly awaiting my second order of these mannequins which I ordered one day after the first order. It isn't here yet, while the first ones came very fast. I ordered a different finish, should I expect them soon?
March 8, 2014, 12:36 am
@AliceZ. Hi! Seems dangerous to me and i would try on a sample first. The material's data sheet specifies it starts melting at 172 °C (340°F), but i think this is the liquid state, and the parts will start deforming above 100°.
March 7, 2014, 12:37 pm
I'm in the process of putting these together and have a question, but my laptop will not let me contact the designer directly, so I thought I'd ask here. Does anyone know how much heat these parts can withstand? I'd like to paint them with Genesis heat set paints which cure at 275 degrees F.
March 6, 2014, 8:09 pm
@Mr_props great! Please let me know when it's available!
February 23, 2014, 4:15 pm
@Dalminis, & Blonie Tales. Thank you! I hope i can released an updated version optimised for frosted ultra detail within the next two months. If the prototypes work correctly, there should be male and female versions. Bets regards!
February 23, 2014, 8:04 am
I'm also really looking forward to a female version!
February 18, 2014, 2:26 am
I'm very interested in a female version of Alter Ego as well. Thanks.
February 7, 2014, 3:27 am
@Mr_props Hello and thanks for the response. Still thinking of whether to get this scale or the 1/6. Either way, looking forward to it. :)
February 3, 2014, 8:45 am
@DDSX.Hi! The doll on the picture used 0.7 mm aluminium wires. It is not he best metal you can use for this purpose in my opinion, as for still poses, i think annealed steel would be better, but these wires are hard to find in this diameter. I had in my opinion better results usign a single annealed aluminium wire while the doll was held by 0.5mm doll strings.
February 3, 2014, 7:47 am
The pose in the pictures, are they made with the figure using wires or doll string?
February 3, 2014, 4:39 am
@bestdarna, Alter ego model can pose knees touching the chest. Due to some cheating in the proportions, they touch a little higher than they should for real. The torso of Esatz does not feature as many joints, and the proportions are not realistic. As a result, the knees would touch the head instead of the chest.
January 8, 2014, 4:30 pm
oh and one last question, is this ALTER EGO 1/12 scale doll and ERSATZ GIRL, can they hold a pose of knees touching chest?
January 8, 2014, 3:14 pm
@Mr_props wow! cant wait to see it. i wish it has more curves and very feminine :) thank you.
January 8, 2014, 3:11 pm
@bestdarna. Hi! I'm working on it :)
January 8, 2014, 2:53 pm
do you have a female version of this ALTER EGO 1/12 scale doll?
January 8, 2014, 2:34 pm
Would you consider making this or the 1/6th ego available for download? I'd specifically like to play with the ball joints, see if it is printable on a home FDM printer.
December 30, 2013, 5:21 pm
I collect bjd but have never found nice looking 1/12th size. This will be interesting and might share with bjd community thanks!
December 6, 2013, 3:37 am
@jskerchner . Hi! I used Maya 2008 as it is a very nice sofware. It is not very precise and in some regards solidworks is way better, but Maya allows you to try, modify and change shapes a lot more easily. There's a better control of the plygons' flow as the resolution is achieved using a smooth. i guess the software's choice depends on your workflow. I tried Zbrush, but it felt too unprecise, and the meshes are too heavy to upload. i never tried Sketchup as the meshes are very dirty, and quite unpopular among 3d printers' teams.
November 10, 2013, 10:42 pm
Very cool design and beautiful articulation. I just ordered one. What software did you use for the design?
November 10, 2013, 6:40 pm
Beautiful work, and great photography!
November 6, 2013, 12:45 pm
Ordering 1mm elastic today, hopefully it will arrive quickly...
September 28, 2013, 4:08 pm
@Kinetikx . Hi! this is a nice idea, i kept thinking about it for a while. The price would be expensive (250 $/ 200 euros i guess), and anyway the model is too big so it needs to be split. There's a technical aspect which bothers me aswell: the escape holes for the material need to be 2mm wide. I'm running tests on a new version, but it will take a long time before anything comes out. Casting a protoype will definitely be needed, so given the price, i will first check how the plastic one behaves. I guess i will start with small details like a face, hand clips, to offer some parts as hop up elements.
September 27, 2013, 7:40 am
@Mr_props I just saw that shapeways offers brass now. I immediately thought about how amazing this figure would look in that material. I've got a feeling it would be expensive. Any idea what the price would be? I'd probably want the raw brass because I could polish different parts however I'd like.
September 27, 2013, 12:12 am
@dennisrrr. The best aspect of 3d modeling is that (in my opinion) you can check your articulations, and make sure there's no coliision, and that they move according to your plans. I guess the best way to finish the project is as you said, by hand. This way you start with a very clean and functional model. I usually like to use epoxy putty like milliput when i want to modify something, because polystyrene putty does not stick so well. So i would put a small drop of cyanoacrylate glue first, then add the epoxy putty, and work it until i'm satisfied. I don't know if other products work well on polyamide but i guess many products made for 25mm miniatures modeling would, such as Duro. I prefer the hard one (unlike greenstuff), as they are easier to work with files, saws, and some of them can be smoothed using water, in order to improve the quality of the surface. Some tool like silicone/ribbuer tipped brushes are very handy. Soft greenstuff is very nice aswell, i used it to adjust ball and socket articulations. Given the fact it is hydrophobic, it is very convenient to humidify a master a make a negative. Plus it is very usefull, if glued with cyanoacrylate to tighten ball and socket articulations. Anyway, i hope i can see your sculpt when you finish it!
September 16, 2013, 8:30 am
I will probably try it out at 1/6 in WSF to see if it is functional in real life, so it will be cheaper to try it out, then enlarge it from there if it works. I'm sure designing it will take forever, but I like the advantage of digital modeling, because I can always decide the size later and then just make some (hopefully) minor modifications if needed, for the enlarging. It will then need to be worked over by hand somewhat too, since I will convert it to resin probably.
September 13, 2013, 7:49 am
@dennisrrr. Cool! I hope i can see it when you make it! Personaly, i find it way easier to start at 1/12 scale planing it with white strong and flexible specifications as it is way easier to adjust the scale afterwards. Good luck!
September 13, 2013, 6:50 am
Great! I'd love to get one someday! Still waiting to get a chance to put together Mr. Ego, but I'm also working on a statue sculpt I may chop into BJD pieces someday, but I want it to be at least 60cm tall, so it will not be cheap!
September 13, 2013, 3:52 am
@dennisrrr. This is a good thing to know, especially for big items. i never ran in this stuff before given the fact my models are usually much less than 20 cc. But for the 1/6 version this might offer ways to improve the prototype!
September 12, 2013, 7:04 am
OMG I can't believe it, I think I finally understand their pricing system! I'm in shock!
September 12, 2013, 5:14 am
Yep, it appears yours gets a 50% discount when it goes above 20cm3 according to their materials details page, though of course greater density also means greater price, it is still a good discount: "We also offer a volume and density discount on Strong & Flexible materials. For models that have greater than 10% density (material volume divided by bounding box volume), volume above the first 20cm3 is calculated with a 50% discount."
September 11, 2013, 9:33 pm
@dennisrrr .Wow, you are damn right! I modified the parts layout, to get a bounding box below 10000 cc. The price went down to 590 euros, which is way better. The density is about 11%. For now i never had to deal with this kind of trouble but it's a very good thing to know! Thanks for the explanation!
September 9, 2013, 5:36 pm
Hi! Apparently there is a new pricing scheme that began in June. It turns out that in the "white strong and flexible", my "low density" model (anything below 2.6% density, I'm assuming that means 2.6% of bounding box is material, rather than material compared to the volume of actual model) switches into a different pricing scheme altogether, after its bounding box reaches a size over 10,000cm3. It is charged $0.0385/cc of the bounding box after that point. So chopping it into pieces as I have to do anyway, and rearranging it to make it a smaller bounding box should help make it a more efficient and inexpensive print. Apparently size is a big issue for their costs. Maybe this strategy could help you too, if you ever go over the 10,000 cc mark in the future in this material.
September 9, 2013, 4:39 pm
@dennisrrr. Hi! It was with white strong and flexible. The price is increasing exponentially. If you double the size, it just gets two times bigger but the surface is exponent 2 and the volume exponent 3. So it does not increase linearly but exponent 3. If think this is why it seems that the price increase itself is also increasing at a bigger scale.
September 9, 2013, 3:31 pm
Thanks for the info! Which material was it? It seems the price jumps to more than ten times more at once around 60cm, I'm thinking it must be due to something like bounding boxes. I can't seem to get a clear answer from Shapeways for some reason. Thanks again!
September 9, 2013, 3:09 pm
@dennisrrr . Hi! Ok i made a try, but really just for fun! At 60 cm alter ego is around 1650 euros (2175 US $ ouch). I tried aswell with another model i optimised for 1/6 scale and the price was down to 1223 euros (1614 US $ re-ouch). So unless you have a really good optimisation of your mesh it looks like kind of hard to get below 1000 euros. I knew the price was growing exponentialy, but i didn't expect such a result as the 1/6 optimised mesh is about 170 euros for a size of 29 cm. Maybe at a bigger scale a cheaper material might be appropriate, but at such a scale the parts of the models might need to be printed one by one in some materials. Well i hope this provides some usefull information :)
September 9, 2013, 7:49 am
It is definitely true that string tension is dependent on weight of parts, not so much on their size. So the string can be very thick diameter, and strung very tightly on heavy resin BJDs, enough to warp any flexible plastic considerably. But a lightweight doll would only need a very weak tension, so I guess that problem would solve itself. I was wondering though, if you input Mr. Alter Ego at 60cm or larger, what exactly would it cost? I'd love to design a realistic giant action figure myself someday, but I'm only interested in that size range, and it would be good to know the cost at that size range ahead of time. I'm still working on getting the right size elastic, I can't wait!
September 8, 2013, 9:26 pm
@dennisrrr .In fact i think 1mm should be enough for 1/6, although a little thin. For a bigger scale, i would go to 1.5/2mm as advised by shapeways, because of the strings' strengh. A lighter model should allow to usee weak strings, but if the cheracter was to be dressed, then something stronger would be required i guess.
September 3, 2013, 3:50 pm
@dennisrrr . The best in my opinion is to keep around 1.5mm thickness. This way it is strong enough, doesn' bend too much, and can easily withstand the polishing process. Minimum wall thickness in polyamide is 0.7mm, and it should work on such volumes as they are not like huge flat surface taht would warp easily. But then the material is more supple and would feel too light for a puppet. mm should be better, but still a little too light. At a bigger scale, i need tougher strings, and i wouldn't like these to deform the shell. I'll keep thinking about it but 1/6 scale looks like something easier to handle than what i expected.
September 3, 2013, 8:55 am
@Mr_props how thin does it have to be to avoid deforming? 1mm enough? would it still be strong enough I wonder? Even though I'm on vacation I had to check, the idea is so interesting.
September 3, 2013, 2:30 am
@dennisrrr . Just for fun i tried a rescale. 1/6 (12 inches) is around 160$, so i'm working on some improvements in order to lower the price and increase the possbilities. I hope i can have a result in december
September 2, 2013, 8:04 am
@dennisrrr . Hi! I wouldn't try with this one. I'm currently trying to make a 1/6 version and it should be way more suited to upscale. I can't even imagine the price at 70cm, probably around 500 euros, but the plastic would deform whn cooling down in the thickest area. I guess working at such a size would imply so many modifications that starting from scratch would be easier.
September 1, 2013, 6:59 pm
@Mr_props Thank you so much for all the info on stop motion! I really want to try it. I have a mostly unrelated question, what would it cost to print your alter ego at 70cm or 30 inches tall?
August 31, 2013, 11:05 pm
@dennisrrr . Hi! I tried samller first as it is more "cost efficient" to run many prototypes, debug and improve the models. Also if it work at a small scale it usually works even better if bigger because the margin of error is smaller. Personaly, i wouldn't recommend frosted ultra detail for this puppet, as this material is hard to clean up (it is full of wax), and the paints tend to chip away as the surface is really smooth. Maybe a mix of frosted parts and white strong and flexible would be more efficient as some parts require a good strengh, and some other more smothness. I think it will be hard to make him look like as realistic as a real person as i cheated completely on the proportions and his body is in fact between a man and a woman's body. I'm coming from 3d animation design, so i tend to make things more cartoony than they actually are. If you would like to try stop motion, every artist has his own setup and workflow. The guys who made a trial with this puppet had decent results. They added a ball joint behind the torso, with a tiny arm to make the character stand, as they wanted to try on a blue background. Annealed aluminium wire is the best as it is fairly "dead". They tried another version wich was working better, rigged with a thin elastic and a single aluminium wire in each limb. I also tried with annealed steel, it was better in my opinion, but the animator didn't like the elasticity of this material. I think it is possbile to have a result, but for something professional, a bigger scale would be better like 1/8. It is fairly easy to try stop motion as you just need to connect your digital camera to a computer, set it to manual so that the settings are not changing as the model is moving, and shoot each frame directly with the computer. Some softwares allow you to assemble the pictures directly and test it straight forward. You need a big area completely in the dark and make sure the only things moving are what you want to (a cat or a ferret around are not a nice setup). The lighting is a very nice thing to work with especially if you have a good set behind. Just don't use neon as the light is not even enough, but if your friend has good spot lights it should be nice. Filters quickly come handy to create the desired atmosphere. Anyway, i wish you enjoy your vacations. Have fun!
August 30, 2013, 7:36 am
@Mr_props I see, you're coming from smaller to larger, whereas I'm sorta coming from larger (1/3 scale) to smaller, ala Ball Jointed Dolls. I think tiny can be very fascinating, especially something so posable as this, and I love stop motion, but I'm not that good with tiny things with my hands, they'd have to be preassembled, this one is tough enough as it is for me personally lol. I also like the idea of scales that match existing markets just because you can add clothes to them if you like, and larger means more detail in the faces. I was not sure if I should get him in ultra frosted detail, but I would like to consider it in the future, does it actually look more detailed? I can't tell from their example pics on the site. If that medium is not as flexible, I wonder if it makes it harder to fit the pieces together? Probably not at this size, the parts are designed to fit nicely. I guess this would be a great way to test out the medium, and hopefully it will be easier the second time around to string him together. Anyway, I will finish assembling him when I return from vacation two weeks or so from now and let you know how he turns out. I should be able to take some nice pics at some point so you can see for yourself. I was thinking of dying him some color for fun or even making him glow in the dark, who knows, maybe I can even paint a tiny face on him and try to make him look like a real person. That's definitely not easy, but I've seen other artist pics where they did it with their BJDs. I might even try stop motion for a minute, always wanted to, my friend just acquired an ancient camera/light setup from work that no one was using all these years, so maybe it is an omen ;) It should be easier these days with digital technology.
August 30, 2013, 4:38 am
@dennisrrr . In fact it is possible to scal this one down to 54mm in frosted ultra detail. It is possible to rig it with jewelry 0.5mm wire, but at such a small scale, so much care is required that i gave up selling it! It prints allright, i assembled two for fun, and they behaved correctly. But in my opinion, such a small scale is something quite masochist to work on. I love 1/35 scale modeling, but i'm not sure pushing this design to such a limit would drag many client lol. The 1/12 scale came from the fact that it is hard to have something smaller for stop motion animation, and troublesome to make backgrounds if bigger, unless you have a lot of space. The basic version didn't feature the trap door behind the torso. I don't like this one but an animator asked me for a solution to change the wire for the arms separately without having to separated all the components.
August 26, 2013, 7:24 pm
@Mr_props thanks for the advice, I'll try some of that when I get a chance, I've never done one so small!
August 26, 2013, 5:15 pm
@dennisrrr .Hi! Smoeone (i think it is oubli3tt3), told me she used jewelry nylon (wire used for necklesses i guess), and got good results with it. Other people just used basic 0.7mm aluminium and got good results, but the assembly is less dead, which is an issue for those who enjoy stop motion. Another guy tried 0.7mm annealed aluminum together with a thin elastic used for fishing and got something nice aswell. So i don't think you absolutely need 1mm elastic. The tunnels are wide enough in the legs to put something a little bigger, but it is a pin to pull it through. I glued the end of my elastics with cyanoacrylate so they get rigid. This way they are going through the parts more easily. Anyways thanks for all the information you provided me, i'm still planning what i will do. Good luck!
August 26, 2013, 7:34 am
Gotta go get the elastic now, wiring is okay, but not quite tight enough, can't wait...he looks good strung together though.
August 26, 2013, 6:08 am
@dennisrrr .Thank you for this information! I will run a first prototype before the end of september. Best regards! alex
August 25, 2013, 8:43 am
@Mr_props I don't think the larger version would be too expensive at $160, but optimizing is still important. Many collectors of Ball Jointed Dolls would be interested, but they would insist on eyeholes and toes for the feet. Otherwise, I think it is great.
August 25, 2013, 12:51 am
Hi, I just received your alter ego doll, and I love it! I have prepared him, but not yet strung him together, I need to get the 1.5 elastic or 1mm aluminum annealed wire, but so far I can already tell he looks amazing and the nice thing is that his material (Strong white flexible plastic) has the right "tooth" for the right friction so he will hold poses, almost does already without even stringing him together, the parts fit together perfectly so far, it's really wonderful. I think he looks better in person than in the photos, too, though I am tempted to add some color to him with a dye or powder like pastel powders, we'll see... If you go larger, I have only a few recommendations for your consideration: Fewer sprue attachments - it seems the sprue is very strong with just two attachments for each part, and then you have less work to do with detaching and cutting away the stubs afterwards. it was about an hour or more to prepare him, before stringing, so this might be a minor improvement to preparation time. I like the strong white flexible plastic, but haven't tried other materials yet, but it seems ideal since the flexibility allows for pieces to fit together in a nice, poseable way. I don't think that fitting parts together and posing will happen as nicely with non-flexible materials, I have several sizes of Ball Jointed Dolls that are all solid resin, and not flexible at all, so they lose that advantage of a snug fit for posing. They are also too smooth, so there is no friction, it has to be added with a hot glue gun or sueding etc. I'm sure this flexible material doll will be easier to pose when I finish stringing him, than a resin non-flexible doll would be. More photos, especially some with color added, would help him sell better. You've already done the hardest part. The photos for Ball Jointed Dolls generate lots of interest by peaking people's imaginations as far as customization possibilities, and which one you buy usually comes down to what the photos prove to you about their appearance in different lighting and positioning and overall versatility of it's character. A version with toes attachment as an option would be liked a lot. Different faceplates almost the same as offering different dolls, and a realistically proportioned face like you would see on an Iplehouse ball jointed doll would be popular too. People can cut the eyeholes, to add BJD eyes, but that is very difficult in any size. So a faceplate with eyeholes would be desirable to many collectors. There are many sizes and kinds of eyes on the BJD market, very realistic too, so the customer figures out usually where to get them, but this only matters if the doll is 1/6 or bigger. Customers add their own makeup to the doll, and you get to see your work come to life in many different ways. The eyes are probably the most important part of that to most collectors. Thanks for designing something that is obviously not easy to accomplish, you did a great job and I'm sure many people will want one as soon as they find out he exists! a
August 25, 2013, 12:46 am
@Kinetikx . Nice work! I will study a bigger version and try to improve as much as i can the existing as a bigger scale with the same precision means it is possible to get better results. Thanks for your feed back by the way and the picture aswell! I also tried several materials to string the puppet, and i think it should be easier if it was more than 20cm tall. I have a commission to finish first before i can really think about that, but i'll give it a try! Thanks!
August 19, 2013, 8:39 pm
@dennisrrr . Hi! another person notified me for an upscaled version of it. I made a try just for fun, but a 1/6 (30cm) version is about 120 euros or 160 US$. This is without no optimisation at all, so let's say the optimised model would be 15% cheaper. I didn't do it now because i was unsure anybody would be interested at such a price. The price increased exponentially as the volume does. The material is trong enough and an upscaled version is the next thing i will work on starting november. We will see if it is worth the effort, but no result is planned before next february because of the prototyping process. Thanks for your interest! Best,
August 19, 2013, 8:27 pm
Just finished the figure. It has an amazing range of motion and the positions you can get are extremely life like. I used .8mm "Beadalon elasticity" elastic cord. I found it difficult to get good tension (but this was my first time stringing together one of these). I ended up using 1mm aluminum wire in the legs and arms along with the elastic cord and its perfect now. Before assembly I sealed each piece in thinned CA glue which gives a decent finish on the WSF material. All in all you've made a great figure. My wish now is for a bigger one. Maybe even up to 1/6 scale but that might get pretty pricey.
August 19, 2013, 7:07 pm
Hi, I just purchased one of your Alter Egos, but I was wondering what limitations there might be on the size for something like this...can it be printed at 13 inches tall or maybe even 45cm tall (18 inches)? Or is it the cost increases exponentially, or the material isn't strong enough without being thicker, or a combination of both, etc? Or maybe there is no limitation, just linear increase of cost?
August 19, 2013, 4:42 pm
@er1c .Thank you for the picture! It is always nice to see the result in the hands of another person!
August 18, 2013, 11:29 am
amazing how intricate this is and the wide range of body expressions possible. included my hand in the photo for scale. had a lot of fun stringing it together! really nice work Mr_props!
August 17, 2013, 11:45 pm
@Oubli3tt3 . Thanks for the link! It is feasable i guess using forsted ultra detail, then polishing it by hand, although it is rather boring. I'll keep this in mind for the future! Thank you.
August 15, 2013, 8:21 pm
@Mr_props Eyes for a doll this small are actually hard to come by, I know. You can try a few beads of the right size (eyes are usually measured by their diameter) to get a general feel or perhaps nab a few designed for PukiPuki (a doll with similar height though a much bigger head) from somewhere like this: Hope that helps! I look forward to your creations, I just hope they stay in a nice affordable range so I can collect them all ^_^
August 15, 2013, 7:52 pm
@Mr_props Thank you for your reply! I wanted to make sure, before I started work on it. I don't want to damage the doll, as it seems very delicate. I can't wait to get it strung up! Your work is amazing!
August 15, 2013, 5:07 pm
@Oubli3tt3. Hi! I am trying a new bassin in order to make a female version, aswell as a little tougher male version. I'm not sure about changing the face yet, as i don't own exemples of these beautifull bjd eyes. They would probably be the starting point for a new modeling, but without, i'm stuck. The other limitation is the printing precision and frosted ultra detail would be more suited. I'll think this over, thanks!
August 15, 2013, 4:51 pm
@Youkochylde Hi! Some people reported the same issue. It happens that printing powder gets stuck inside the channels. It is pretty dense, but it goes away with a pin or a drill bit. I usuallly prefer using a piece of piano wire (0.7mm diameter) as it gave the best results to get rid of this dust. I'm usually doing this inside water, so that the excess powder does not go anywhere. Please don't hesitate if you have more questions. Best regards!
August 15, 2013, 4:46 pm
Just got mine today! I love the detail, it's amazing. I did, however, notice that while some of the pieces had the channels already drilled, that wasn't the case for the arms/legs. Is this normal, or did I get a weird printing?
August 15, 2013, 4:16 pm
I am absolutely in love with this design! My only suggestion would be for a more expressive face, maybe leave the eye sockets empty so various eyes could be inserted, and maybe a female version :D
August 15, 2013, 3:19 am
@Tuicc Thank you for your comment! I' m happy to see people look like pleased with the result as it is an awkward king of product. So thank you very much!
July 13, 2013, 2:15 pm
Mr_props, I got my Alter Ego the other day and I've only just strung him together; he's fantastic! I used elastic jewelry thread. I have to play around with the tension because I did his legs too tight but it was pretty easy to do. I was just a little nervous cutting all the sprigs off but it wasn't hard. The detail is amazing! Great job on the modelling!
July 13, 2013, 12:29 pm
@Malinlin . You are welcome, thank you! Don't hesitate if you have any issue with it. Good luck with the assembly!
July 3, 2013, 7:01 pm
@Mr_props Thank you for the fast reply and the information! You are very kind. :) I'll will order in white strong & flexible then and paint it later. Thanks again for the advice!
July 3, 2013, 6:21 pm
@Malinlin ; Hi! When printing basic polyamide (white strong and flexible), some printing dust can get trapped inside the tunnels. It is no big trouble to remove with a pin or ar toothpick. When coloured, they dip the pieces in paint, and the paint will glue this residue. It makes it harder to remove. It is not that hard, especially with a drill bit (manualy), but personaly, i found this rather boring to do. If you plan to paint it later, i would still advise white strong and flexible. In fact coloured and polished still has printing lines, so sanding is required to achieve a good finish. If you sand this coloured material, the original white material will appear again. Now, the parts are on a sprue (to avoid losing some), which means you will see the white material where you need to cut. So i think it is not a good option here. As all the parts are hollow, you just need to put them on a wire (make sure they don't touch one another, you can stop them with the stuff used for posters), and paint with spray, airbrush, brush... Don't hesitate to notify me if you have more questions! Best regards!
July 3, 2013, 6:55 am
@Mr_props Oh, it is just incredible! What a beautiful piece of art. :) I just love it! I will definitely order one. I've just got one question: You wrote in the description about the white strong and flexibel material, but how about the colored, polished version? Does that material work just aswell or does the polishing affect the tiny parts (wrists ect) somehow?
July 2, 2013, 10:20 pm
@Tuicc . Thanks for the piece of advice. Maybe i will add a few more pictures when i have the time to make good ones :)
June 30, 2013, 5:32 pm
May I suggest you include at least one photo with a visual scale reference? The complexity of Alter Ego could be lost on many viewers without it (NB Coins are a poor choice in a global market place). A ruler or human hand would really bring it home!
June 30, 2013, 1:46 am
@Tuicc and GoGoDynamo. Thank you! I hope people who buy it will be satisfied and wil be able to make it fit other purposes than what i thought about..
June 29, 2013, 12:21 pm
Wow...awesome! I just ordered one....just had to have one. I've pinned this to Pinterest on a doll board and animation board. The possibilities are mind blowing! Well done!
June 29, 2013, 4:44 am
amazing. A study in elegance. Bravo.
June 14, 2013, 9:10 pm
@gaixas1 . Thanks :)
June 14, 2013, 6:58 am
June 5, 2013, 1:37 pm
@Mr_props I got it today! It's beee-uuu-tiful!! I had a high expectations but it looks even better in person. You did an excellent job modeling this. I haven't assembled it yet, so I will post some thoughts when it's fully functioning. I have to get a right-size elastic first. Thanks!
May 29, 2013, 6:32 pm
@Mr_props Yes, I bought it when I talked to you last time. It looked like it's printed pretty fast (faster than my other orders) but I'm still waiting. I'll definitely let you know when I receive it :)
May 28, 2013, 6:30 pm
@KillahTomato Hi! I can't check if you bought one or not, but if you did, I hope you recieved your order and that it matches your expectations. Please let me know your opinion, as i would be very interested in your point of view. Thanks!
May 28, 2013, 6:08 pm
What!? I will be your first customer then! I will contact you :)
May 15, 2013, 9:52 pm
@KillahTomato Thanks :). I made one in fact and a male one aswell, this one beeing closer to an angel. i'm still working a little on them, because the bodies proportions are supposed to be pretty different. I'd like to keep a sleek body with wider shoulder for the guy and a thinner line for the lady. I will wait a little for feedback when the first customers buy one, so i'm sure i could correct any flaw people could find. It is pretty hard a thing to debug when there is a problem, because modifying one part means modifying the parts around aswell. Plus, i'm sure people won't use it the way i intended, so i hope it is reliable enough...
May 15, 2013, 9:43 pm
@Mr_props I don't think you need to worry about asking buyers to assemble at all. If you sell it to the right audience, it's pretty common thing to do it so I don't think they care. It's actually a fun part :) Anyways, great job. And I'm glad to hear that it took nearly 3 years :P I'd like to see you coming up with a female version of this too!
May 15, 2013, 9:01 pm
@KillahTomato The limit to this kind of product is that it is not really possible, with this process, to sell a finished product. I dislike having o ask customers to string the doll themselves, but depending on the application, they can choose how to do it. I'll try to make a small stop motion test to show how it behaves. Thank you for your comment anyway :). Best regards!
May 15, 2013, 7:05 am
@KillahTomato . Don't be jealous, i spent nearly three years and made about 30 prototypes until i got something i was pleased with lol.
May 15, 2013, 6:59 am
This is freaking amazing. You've done such a beautiful job already that I've been wanting to do. Jealous!
May 14, 2013, 11:52 pm
@blaqstar22 . Thank you for your advice. It took such a long time to make this one, i'm not sure i'll make a new one any time soon, but this is also the reason i made it with wsf. This way people with modeling skills can sculpt the face they like.
May 12, 2013, 4:43 pm
This is extremely unique!!! The functioning is really life like. Might get better reactions if it was an anime girl though. My fellow nerds will rush to buy this.
May 12, 2013, 5:45 am


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