NEO EGO

NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
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NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
Digital Preview

Not a Photo

NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
Digital Preview

Not a Photo

NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
Digital Preview

Not a Photo

NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
Digital Preview

Not a Photo

NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
Digital Preview

Not a Photo

NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
Digital Preview

Not a Photo

NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
Digital Preview

Not a Photo

NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
Digital Preview

Not a Photo

NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
Digital Preview

Not a Photo

NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
Digital Preview

Not a Photo

NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
Digital Preview

Not a Photo

NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
NEO EGO 3d printed Figurines Miniatures
Digital Preview

Not a Photo

3d Model Viewer

About this Product

a fully articulated mini figure that can twist torso and bend knees. Made to be compatible with most brick brands. Please be gentle when connecting parts together especially the knees. If you order it with a coloured material, you may have to remove some of the polyamide powder that will be stuck inside the knees' joints (you can remove it using a toothpick).

Dimensions

IN: 1.137 w x 2.309 d x 0.408 h
CM: 2.888 w x 5.864 d x 1.036 h
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@Mr_props Thanks for replying. Ok, that's great. I will definitely try to find something. I would love to create a little robot like this. What software did you use?. Also, how much smaller are the balls from the sockets? Thanks again.
July 9, 2014, 10:56 am
@spamurai, Hi! You can get the dimensions on the net, it is easier if you search for pictures. But you will have to try and run sevral prototypes fine tuning each iteration to get a good result. And of course, coloured or polished materials don't behave the same way as the raw material, so expect some more work!
July 9, 2014, 7:14 am
These are literally the coolest things on shapeways. I wish I could make something like this. How did you get the correct sizes for the brick connections?
July 9, 2014, 2:17 am
@Jonmkl. Hi! It is available :)
June 8, 2014, 9:11 pm
@Mr_props Is it still possible to download this figure? I would love to print one myself. I love the design!
June 8, 2014, 3:47 am
Sorry guys, the desing guideline cahnged, i can't sell this anymore on this website.
February 25, 2014, 12:30 pm
I got two of these, one in blue and one in red. The red is fantastic, holds his pose really well, and is awesome. The blue, well, not so much. He's floppy as heck. Still I really like the red.
February 20, 2014, 3:18 am
@Mr_props Thank you ! I'll upload more soon ! :)
December 7, 2013, 4:10 pm
@akinvong. Thank you! I saw you do some nice things aswell, i hope to see more soon!
December 7, 2013, 10:07 am
Wonderful !!
December 7, 2013, 7:40 am
amazing figure!! cheers!
December 3, 2013, 2:05 am
@mechking4511. The mash is available for download, you are free to modify it and to print it, no problem. You can post it here aswell, i don' mind as i have no time to develop this line. Best regards!
November 24, 2013, 11:03 am
@Mr_props My main plan was to see if i could make an arm joint, and possibly add wrists, If I would have to I could make custom wrists, plus I wanted to make an arm that had a peg hole, but that's pretty much it. I'm actually in college and they have a 3d printer, I could see about using it sometime, I don't know about posting the product on here without permission from you, plus it is your creation.
November 24, 2013, 3:50 am
@mechking4511 hi! I also made available the meshes of the Ersatz line of figures. You may be interested aswell. Th file format is .DAE, so it should be easy to read with any 3d software. Gimp has a plug in to open these files, otherwise sketchup can do it aswell, although i don't like too much this soft. If you need a specific format, please specify which one using the "contact designer" button. Thanks!
November 17, 2013, 7:53 am
I downloaded the model since I wanted to try something. At this point however I have no program to make 3D models, but I plan on getting one. My plans are to add some form of neck joint so normal figure heads can be added, as well as editing the arms. I do want to buy this just so I can get an idea for how the figure is already. Anyways, still a really cool design.
November 17, 2013, 4:30 am
@Mr_props ah, great approach. I work for Shapeways and I've seen my kid demolish a fair number of models so far, yes ;-)
November 7, 2013, 11:16 am
@bartv . Thanks! The model is available for download as i guess many people would be interested to check what the original mesh looks like. This ways, everybody can modify it to make it's own, create extra part for himself etc. Please note that given the printing precision, this is not meant for young kids, as they usually handle things in a pretty rough way!
November 6, 2013, 5:01 pm
Very cool. I'd better not show this to my kid ;-) Are you aware that you've made the model available for download, by the way?
November 6, 2013, 12:48 pm
I do not demand elbows ... but ... I would really like these to have wrist articulation.
September 4, 2013, 5:27 pm
@001rich100 . Hi! What i meant is that if you can downlod the model, then you can check it to make sure it fits your expectaion, make the modifications you need, and then reupload it and print it for yourself. I 'm sorry i didn't find no way to reduce the cost except reducing my own margin, which is not very big. If you plan to use it for animation, there's a few things you will need to do. The first one will be to remove the excess powder traped inside the joints. It may be stuck by the pigments if coloured. It is easy to remove with a toothpick, and by moving the parts after a first assembly. The joints will be a little glazed in the process. Sothe second thing to do, that will improve the durability, and the tightness of the joints, would be to add thin layers of cyanoacrylate glue around the ball joints. This will increase their diameter, allowing you to adjust their tightness. The last thing, depending on the results you'd like to have, would be to sand the model and paint it. Please don't hesitate if you have any issue.
August 7, 2013, 7:20 am
@Mr_props Thank you for your quick reply! I already ordered one, just wish the shipping would've been kind on my budget. $13 for one Nego Ego is too much. I just really hope it's worth the purchase and won't break easily upon using it for my animation.
August 6, 2013, 9:59 pm
@001rich100. I'm afraid not, i just showed several together to show what it looked like if coloured. I gave up making packages including several characters as the price wouldn't differ for the client, and because this way, it is possible to choose a different color for each one you purchase. I'm sorry if this is not the answer you expected. Please note you can download this model to make the modifications you need. Thanks you for your interest!
August 6, 2013, 8:41 pm
Does this purchase bring two?
August 6, 2013, 4:18 pm
@Mr_props Thank you, I hope to place my order soon!
March 28, 2013, 2:07 pm
@unit1257 Hello! The polyamide material (strong and flexible) is the strongest that shapeways can offer to print this model, so it should be alright as is (it is by the tests i made). I ordered polished polyamide materials to check if it still works correctly (the polishing might alter the tightness of ball joints). Because of the ball and socket assembly, it is not possible to print it in materials such as steel because the parts would break or bend when snapping them together. if you find a material that looks like more suited, i will take a look, but i tried many and checked samples (like frosted detail plastic or fine detail plastic) , but none of them looked like more suited than this one. Thank you for your interest! Best regards.
March 28, 2013, 8:44 am
Hey could you make this available in more materials? I'm really interested in buying one but the pictures make it seem really fragile.
March 28, 2013, 2:02 am
Hi! I noticed some people bought the character in polished materials. I made a mistake when i allowed client to order these, as i didn't have time to test them. Please give me feedback if you can, because i don't want to let client ordering them if i'm not sure the result is allright. Thank you!
March 27, 2013, 2:46 am
@mcsdaver Looks like sweet! Be carefull if you have such a bulky body to make in polyamide, it has to be as hollow as possible, with reinforcements as thin as you can manage. Trying to make thick parts will result in the material shrinking when cooling down, thus affecting the mechanical properties and aspect of the part. Looks like an interesting challenge anyway! good luck :)
March 23, 2013, 9:44 pm
@Mr_props The spine on my robot has 3 motors so that should help him if I can get him enough power to walk. He needs smaller and more powerful batteries and a few cooling fans before he can get much farther. Also his legs are not powered yet, I need to get more powerful servos for him. I had to save up for my 3d printer, now I will be buying lots of plastic and getting some work done on his hands, arms and body, then when I have servos that can handle walking I will work on building better legs. Here is a picture of my Micro Explorer robots from my story I am writing. I am building the blue robot in the captain's seat.
March 22, 2013, 11:00 am
@mcsdaver Nice work! 3d printing will hopefully solve most of your problems as you can get a very nice precision. At a bigger scale, gimbals can sometimes prove to be more efficient, especially if wires are supposed to go through your articulations. If you are looking for realistic movements, you have to think that when two bones are rotating together, such as for the knees, the pivot is not between the two bones. Instead you have two pivots, each one at the center of the rounded side of each bone. This means you need a third bone between the two bones, just like on most BJDs and 1/6 action figures. This allows bigger movements especially if the body is hard. Most of the time, i noticed that robots manufacturer forget about the fact that the harm movements start with the clavicle, i guess it would be too complicated to insert it. The spine if also rather symbolic on most models, but it really helps for balance, especially when walking. I guess you have been thinking about most of this already. Good luck! I hope i can see your model when it is finished!
March 22, 2013, 8:37 am
I forgot to include a picture of my humanoid robot
March 22, 2013, 12:23 am
@Mr_props The robot figure I am making will be bigger so hopefully I can get all the joints strong and movable. Thank for the advice. This is all new to me. I don't even have my printer yet. It is ordered and paid for, but will be weeks away. I am also making a large humanoid robot. He is about 66 cm tall. I will be printing his face, hands and some body parts with my 3d printer. He has ok hands right now, but he will have great ones soon.
March 22, 2013, 12:16 am
@mcsdaver maybe i can give to you a little advice, as i tried a lot of ball and socket joint stuff that failed. I designed these this way because they are easy to clip, allow a lot of movements, and are rather strong in polyamide. The basic ball and socket system doesn't work so well, because it is much harder to clip the parts together and you might even break them during the assembly. So it is much better if you can cut it like the petals of a flower, so that the parts are flexible enough to snap together. On my model, you will notice there are only two "petals" (on each side of the joints) so that the parts wouldnbend instead of breaking. A good exemple are the ball and socket joints made by the most famous bricks company. Otherwise, just take a look at how stop motion pupets are made if you are looking for inspiration. You will notice you can download thi model. Take a look: the arms joints are the smallest i could get in polyamide. If you try something smaller you can get down to 3mm for the inner ball in frosted detail, but look out, the socket can break easily! One last thing: if you have trouble doing the assembly, you can soften polyamide parts in hot water (don't boil it!), so they can deform when snaping. Thank you for your interest and good luck! (please feel free if you have any question).
March 21, 2013, 11:05 pm
Cool, I have a portal gun that might fit this little guy. Also I am building action figures from my robots I built for a story I am writing. The robots are all computer models right now. I will use this toy to learn how to make my robots more poseable when printed out.
March 21, 2013, 9:46 pm
Ok guys! Thanks to all of you for your kind comments. I don't have much time to make this character evolve the way you would like. Soooooooo... You can now download the mesh and do whatever you like with it. In fact let's say it clearly: it is now "open source". Print it, modify it, enjoy it, just keep in mind the following: Smaller ball and socket articulations for elbows or leg just do not work (they get loose quickly and just don't fit if less than 4mm diameter in Polyamide,and 3.5mm in frosted detail). Be carefull as the waist and knees joints can break very easily if you try ultra frosted detail (and be carefull with the others.. Have fun!
March 9, 2013, 10:28 pm
@agent_of_the_8 Thanks! In fact i saw that the superglue was used in Paranorman to clean the surfaces of the 3d printed parts. About the wrist/elbow joint, i don't have much time to study it. In fact it is not possible to print a thinner joint because it gets loose so quickly that it is not worth the effort.
March 9, 2013, 10:21 pm
@Mr_props You're quite welcome. In my experiences with painting G.I. Joe or Transformers sockets and joints, do a little sanding of the plastic (but not too much to ruin the fit badly) before the paint is applied, then a bit of super glue seals the deal. I've even found a dab of clear nail polish coating works in a pinch... =) The super glue route is what I'll be doing on this figure for the chest area (which was mislabled as "waist joint" in my last post... Sorry. =/ ), but the rest I'd planned on using what y'all just mentioned: a spray can spritz or two of clear car paint covering. Thanks for the heads-up about the long wait time of drying. Looking forward to your future work/s! I'm gonna toss my hat in, as well, with all the previous folks mentioning a working elbow/wrist system. We've all got faith in you, hoss. ;) Sell 'em as "add ons" in a bundle pack with a few made up weapons or tools or various sundry items a Neo Ego guy/gal might need for their adventures and y'all may have another big hit on your side! =) - a_o_t_8.
March 9, 2013, 9:51 pm
@agent_of_the_8 Thanks for the pictures:). I tried before to have a smooth surface by a using car primer spray, but it didn't work as i expected because you have to wait for several days for the paint to be hard enough so that it wouldn't peel away on the ball and socket connections.
March 9, 2013, 8:29 pm
I have got to say thanks for this tiny guy! Been having a lot of fun customizing him with specialty weapons and giving him a dye-job. Soon as I get some spare time, I'm adding some metallic green stripes to the "super villain outfit" and a clear coat (to seal in the colors, give him a bit of sheen and to tighten his waist joint)... so these photos are not "final shots." ;) Hope you like seeing him in action! - a_o_t_8. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/silentsidewinder/0D2D809D-A898-48AF-BF7D-49E749498618-11091-000011912B97368F.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/silentsidewinder/3065F8F8-C80C-4D91-8680-34F0617C7535-11091-0000119159E1537A.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/silentsidewinder/3065F8F8-C80C-4D91-8680-34F0617C7535-11091-0000119159E1537A.jpg[/IMG]
March 9, 2013, 7:53 pm
Hi! Thank you everybody for your comments as they are very intructive. As i mentioned before, given the material properties, it would be very hard to have an elbow or a wrist added. I hope i can improve this model, but i lack time because i'm working on a fully articulated doll body. Thank you for your support!
March 2, 2013, 8:31 am
You have inspired me in amazing ways, thank you amazing sir.
March 2, 2013, 6:47 am
also i think you could do the wrist with a peg and hole design. if you do a next gen with elbows and maybe wrist i would love that. please keep in mind the frosted detail like in the first gen, i really enjoy it
February 28, 2013, 10:09 pm
I love this so much, but like everyone eles i would love to see the elbows movable too. even if its bulkier. good work!
February 28, 2013, 7:12 pm
Wow great work!! any change of getting this in white strong and flexible polish ? or Frosted detail any time soon?, BTW i agree tif you manage to make them have elbows it with bee even better than the K-reos mold
December 17, 2012, 8:16 pm
This looks AWESOME, the head is a bit odd, and the ball joints look fragile, HOWEVER, the overall design is nice, its sleek, but still looks to fit in with Lego, I will say adding an elbow joint would be nice, as well as maybe a wrist, but still, this is nice how it is, if anything, I would find a way to add wrist articulation, but never the less, great work :)
November 23, 2012, 6:52 am
Thank you:). I considered articulating the elbows, but i must change the shape so much that i'm losing the design. Given the materials properties, it is hard to make a ball and socket connection less than 4.5mm diameter. It results in a bulky design. A simple one-axis articulation would be easier (just like for the knees, but i need to try a few things more.
November 10, 2012, 12:37 pm
Amazing stuff. Have you considered articulated elbows too?
November 5, 2012, 6:44 pm
yes, it work with nylon, but it will require modifications if i want it to work with frosted detail, because frosted details can't deform enough to snap. I though the knees would be useless if the torso wasn't articulated, this is why i made both.
October 22, 2012, 7:36 pm
wow! you added knees!
October 20, 2012, 9:05 am
 
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