N Krauss Maffei

by Roy_Stevens
  • Frosted Ultra Detail

    Matte translucent plastic that showcases fine and intricate details.

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N-scale 1:160 Krauss Maffei ML 4000CC as purchased by the Rio Grande and Southern Pacific railroads. Requires a Kato SD45 chassis and Micro-Trains universal body mount couplers. Painting, detailing and photos by Doug Midkiff. www.parkerlocoworks.com


IN: 4.906 w x 1.526 d x 0.761 h
CM: 12.46 w x 3.876 d x 1.934 h


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I managed to break off one of the stirrups at the back of the locomotive. I repaired it by using epoxy to stick a piece of carbon fiber rod to the back of the stirrup and , very gently, drilling holes into the flange around the bottom, inside of the Locomotive.
February 20, 2014, 1:29 pm
About the truck frames. I have tried sanding the outside of the Kato frames, leaving the frames very thin at the bottom and, literally, gone at the top. This leaves the Shapeways frames glued on so they slant in slightly at the top. The bar at the top of the Shapeways frame could, probably, be shaved a little, though I have not been brave enough to try it yet. When sanded as described above, the truck just barely fits between the ladders I am in hopes that black paint will cover a multitude of problems. A printed part that completely replaces the Kato truck side frames and bottom would be so very welcome!
February 20, 2014, 1:21 pm
People who expect perfection, often end up with nothing. I will take extremely cool stuff like this all day and night over nothing. Great work given the limitations involved. I plan on trying a few more to end up with all the paint schemes. Something tells me by the time I am done. There will be an answer to the truck side frames. PLEASE do not delete them. It is worth the minimal extra cost to have them and fiddle with them. One of us will figure it out. The rest is just outstanding. Now if you would tackle the second order with hoods. I would be in bloody(nose) heaven!
January 12, 2014, 4:50 pm
I think the truck frame pieces can still be used if you are willing to do a little work. Like Mike D, you could use portions of the supplied frames to add details in selective spots. The FUD snaps really easily and then you don't have to go through the trouble of building some of the complex curves with styrene. The biggest interference came from the bar between the two large boxes. If you used those boxes and put say a 0.010" inch bar across the truck between them, you shold be able to clear the ladders. Like I said, my customer did not want to pay for the time to start kitbashing/modifying things, he only wanted paint and a couple of details, so I did not really get into the trucks. Still a great model Roy that fills a niche for a lot of people.
November 15, 2013, 5:13 pm
Mike Dannemon used bits of styrene glued to the sideframes to replicate the look of the trucks. I tried to replicate those additions with the included frames but it didn't work out due to material limitations. The body is already slightly wider than the protoype, so I don't want to go that route. At this point I wish I would have left them out of the model.
November 10, 2013, 4:22 pm
Parkerlocoworks I am sure you did the same math I did because I reached the same conclusion you did. I also looked at cutting of and moving the steps out, but that would not help. That leaves either stuffing something in the shell or cutting a place out of that bar across the top of the supplied casting to clear the steps. Plurshk!
November 9, 2013, 4:39 pm
@Wyvern29 To paint, I first soaked the models in Bestine to remove the oil and wax from the printing process, then gave them a light polish with toothpaste; I did not do any sanding. I painted them with PollyScale paints, first using a light grey primer. I noticed that the plastic sucked up a lot of color and I had to mix darker than what I wanted the finished color to look like. The grab irons are Detail Associates 0.010" stainless steel in holes drilled with a #80 bit. I think the supplied sideframes are still too thick, they are about the same size as the Kato ones. You would have to file down more than the journal boxes, especially with the way the brass pickup strips and the axle points fit into the Kato sideframe. My customer was ok using the Kato frames rather than building new ones, so I did not get too far into working with them.
November 2, 2013, 5:41 pm
@parkerlocoworks You need to remove the existing journal boxes by sanding them flat enough so the new sides will clear when glued on. Only the brake details will show when finished. Be sure to remove the truck side frames from the trucks before sanding and painting to avoid getting particles into the truck gears.
November 2, 2013, 4:22 pm
Tell me about the painting process, sanding, priming, paint used, etc. what size wire did you use for the grab irons and how did you make the tiny holes? Thanks
November 2, 2013, 4:11 pm
Wow, very very nice! Working on mine at the moment and can't wait to paint it.
October 31, 2013, 8:14 am
Anybody have luck using the supplied truck frames with this kit? I tried to glue them on to the side of the SD45 frames, but they stick out too far and conflict with the ladders.
October 20, 2013, 8:03 pm
OK. This is on my short wish list. Very Cool!
September 27, 2013, 2:42 pm
Here are, hopefully, three photos showing how the Krauss Maffei shell mates up with the SD 45 N scale mechanism.
September 18, 2013, 4:08 pm
I'd like to see it painted.
May 2, 2013, 9:23 pm
Ordered 4, for a friend and myself. A much needed unit, for Rio Grande fans!
August 20, 2012, 10:33 pm
This is way cool.
July 4, 2012, 3:49 am


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