1:12 FUD ALTER EGO Female Bjd Doll Kit

by Mr_props
  • Frosted Ultra Detail

    Matte translucent plastic that showcases fine and intricate details.

    $72.83
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A doll to assemble yourself. Pictures of the 1/16 scale version. This is a model kit, please take a look at the instructions before buying, so you get a clear idea of what this product is: https://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=msg&goto=86184#msg_86184

Dimensions

IN: 2.885 w x 5.28 d x 0.816 h
CM: 7.328 w x 13.41 d x 2.072 h

Comments

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Hello. What's the height of the completed doll? Could you also let me know the dimensions of shoulder/waist/hips and the size of the head.
July 7, 2014, 9:41 am
@Evelien, Hi! Looks like strange because it worked fine on mine, however, i can't be sure that these very thin wires are exactly as thin as specified, because i found 0.3 wire which was in fact 0.45, and of course it make a huge difference when folding these. when making tests with 0.7mm wire, i ended up cutting two of the four wires at the bassin's level AFTER twisting them together, and the result was quite good. The idea is simply to have as many wires as possible going through the belly. Cut some of them after twisting, try to keep a minimum of 4, and it should be fine. Thank you for your patience, i hope i will see the finished result :). Good luck, and please do not hesitate to ask for more questions, because this gives me an interesting feedback about the ways i could improve this design. Best regards!
May 13, 2014, 8:18 pm
I'm finally assembling my doll.. but I can't figure out how four wires are supposed to fit through the toe parts :(. I have 0.4 mm wire. Are you sure the wire for the legs is supposed to be folded twice..? It's so thick, even twisted..
May 13, 2014, 7:36 pm
Well, after this happened I read some reviews, and well.. I wish I read those before I tried Liquitex paint. Basically pretty much every review mentions this problem. Before I got your advice, I put her back in white spirit for a few hours; after that the paint didn't just peel off but at least it was easier to sand. I didn't get it off completely but I got a smooth enough surface to paint over again..
May 5, 2014, 7:16 am
@Evelien. Hi! WOW, i didn't expect this kind of things to happen. Maybe the can was stored for too long? Usually, i'm using Tamiya's spray paints, they are very smooth, and stick very well to the surface. before you try sanding, i suggest you try solvent first, because it should remove most of it, and make it peel, so it would be way easier. I wonder what happeneed because i never got in this kind of trouble, except one time when some acrylic got mixed with oil based paint. Was there some solvent left on the art before you spray? Good luck with the cleaning, at least it is a good thing the parts are made with resin as they are less sensitive to solvents. So put it back again in white spirit for 8 hours, and use a toothbrush to remove this, and make sure the surface is really dry before you try painting again. I guess you shook the can long enough to melt the paint before spraying, so you should try on another kind of surface to check if it is the paint in the can, or some reaction with the material. Honestly, i think it is the can, but i can't be this sure. Please tell me when you overcome this trouble. Good luck!
May 5, 2014, 7:09 am
Whatever you do, don't use Liquitex spray paint :(. I expected spray paint to deliver a smooth, even coat... the Liquitex came out of the can in such weird splotchy blobs that I've got some sanding to do now :(
May 4, 2014, 6:11 pm
@Evelien. Hi! You don't need to wait too long. 30 hours should be enough, just make when it is dry that there's no oil left. If it stays too long, you'll have a white powder apearing on the parts as the resin itself gets attacked by solvents. This is no big deal, but when it starts to appear, it should be time to remove the sprue from the solvent.
May 4, 2014, 3:02 pm
Thanks for the tip about Tamiya polishing cream! I'll look for it. Liquitex is water based so I think I'll be fine. :D Today I found Rayher nylon coated steel wire but it's reeaally rhin, 0.38mm.. I hope it's strong enough. My sprue has been in the white spirit for 30 hours now. She's partially white, partially translucent. Should she be all white before I take her out? I'm so impatient :D
May 3, 2014, 6:15 pm
@Evelien? hi! I'm sometimes using polishing cream, which is usually an abarasive like silice powder miwed with solvents. I'm usually using tamiya coarse polishing cream but there's many other brands. I'm using this to polish parts where they get in contact. You can also find this kind of product for transparent resin finishing or jewelry accessories. If you don't have metal wire, you can give it a try with nylon elastic tused tfor jewelry. It may be easier and a safer. ABout the paint, i don't know liquitex at all. if it is acrylic ased or oiled based, it should be fine. The only hard part as i explained before are the shoulders' joints, and i wouldn't apply varnish on these before i inserted these inside the torso, as the paint will be abrased anyway inside the joint. I'm not sure it is very clear, but this joint is quite tight, so adding an extra thickness of varnish on it would make it too tight... Anyway you can easily remove the shoulder's joint to deal with them separatetely. All the other parts should be much easier.
May 3, 2014, 5:33 pm
@Mr_props thanks, seeing the size right next to each other helped a lot. Now I want them both ^_^
May 3, 2014, 12:19 am
@Mr_props I've been trying to find 0.5mm wire but so far I'm out of luck. I'm trying a hobby supplies store tomorrow, I hope they sell it. I understand the folding... but you say we should fold the leg wires twice and I am not sure how that would look..? Wouldn't the twice-folded wire get too think? I bought Liquitex spray paint today, I hope that will work. Right now the sprue is in white spirit to dissolve the wax. Once it's properly cleaned, I'll apply the paint. I'm really very nervous because I'm not used to this material and I'm really scared I'll screw it up - that's why I'm stalking you with questions. I'm sorry. I don't think Shapeways is very clear about which paint can and can't be used. The forum leaves many questions unanswered. By the way, should I use a spray varnish after I apply the skin colour paint..? I have another question... you mentioned polishing cream. What kind of polishing cream do you mean..?
May 2, 2014, 7:58 pm
@Evelien. That's right, the sprue size differs. I recommend using a base layer which color is close to the skin color you want to use. In fact, you can use directly the skin color you want to apply, as acrylic paint will stick to this surface, and there's no reason it sticks less than a primer. In this material, if the grease is removed correclty, there's no trouble with paint chipping, even around the joints, but it gets polished on the contact areas. Sorry i missed your question about the wires for the legs: the doll is about 15 cm tall. Now the wire is starting at the head, going to the toes, and back to the head, so it should be minimum 30 cm long. If you prefer elastic, it depends on the brand, as they don't stretch the same way. Now if it is stringed with metal, it is usually more efficient to have many twisted wires instead of a big single wire, because the strains when bending this one will be more important, it wil break more quickly. That's the reason why i advise to cut a long wire, fold it and twist it. Now i don't know which kind of diameter and material you choosed, but it doesn't need to be very strong, as the model is quite light. Just don't try something too big and stron like 1mm or more steel wire as you may break parts when moving the puppet (didn't happen to me, but who knows...)
May 2, 2014, 7:49 pm
By the way, do you have any experience with paint chipping quickly around the joints? If I don't spray her with a base layer of paint she'll be so white...
May 2, 2014, 8:19 am
Thanks so much for the advice! Can you also answer my question about the leg wires? I'm sorry, I'm spamming you so much that I can imagine it's getting harder to see everything I write :P I noticed you just said the 1/12 model is 15cm tall. The description above says 13.424... or is that the size of the sprue? Just curious :)
May 2, 2014, 8:17 am
@Oubli3tt3. Hi! Sorry, i gave away all my models, so you would have to way a long time... 1/12 scale is 15 cm tall while 1/16 is 12.3 cm. The price being calculated depending on the volume, even a small size increase can double the price!
May 2, 2014, 8:08 am
@Evelien. Hi! It is better to cast simple parts with resin as it is hard to make a good two parts mold. I did this several times, usually with an rtv silicone. Even for two parts mold, i used to make it all in one time and cut the mold to extract the master, then cast with white resin or acrylic resin. Polyuréthane r"sine is my favorite for soem reason, probably because it is easier to sand and harder, plus it doesn't deform nor soften with heat like acrylic can. After you cast a few parts, then you can try modifying them, as you allready have copies. Now for cleaning up the parts, bear in mind the product on the parts is so oily you can't paint it like that, as it would chip away. I tried... Now my advice is to clean these again as when it is clean, the quality of the paint is WAY BETTER. Now if you doin't plan to paint these, better leaving them as they are as this oil makes it easier to fit the parts together (especially the shoulders).
May 2, 2014, 8:06 am
Is it possible to get a picture of your 1:12 scale model next to your 1:16? Maybe even your 1/6? I'm having problems picturing the size in my head so it would be nice to have a good reference for each. Otherwise I'm as impressed as ever. Truly wonderful work!
May 2, 2014, 2:58 am
Sorry for the spam, but here's what Shapeways says about FUD: "When printing is finished, we remove the models from the tray and put them into an oven that melts away the wax support material. Next, we put the models into an a ultrasonic oil bath to remove any remaining wax residues, and then a ultrasonic water bath to remove any oil on the model. Finally, we inspect the models and dry them by hand." Should I still do the exact same thing at home anyway..?
May 2, 2014, 12:16 am
Oh, I have a question about the manual. You say the wires for the 1/12 version's legs need to be folded in the segment's middle twice. Do you mean I need to fold them and then fold them again in he new middle, so I actually get 4 wires twisted together..? And you say the material is resin, right..? I have resin ball jointed dolls from Asia and before I do their makeup, I apply Mister Super Clear spray so pastels will hold better. Do you have any idea if it's safe to use MSC on your doll..?
May 1, 2014, 10:27 pm
P.s. I don't think I am brave enough to start casting in resin..! Wouldn't I need special equipment for that? Although.. I know a friend of mine does it. Would it perhaps add the possibility of adding eyeholes..?
May 1, 2014, 9:21 pm
My doll will arrive tomorrow, I'm so excited!! For some reason I never got notified of your latest replies.. I only just now noticed they're here! Sorry! I already read the instructions a few weeks ago and I thought I was supposed to spraypaint the entire structure before putting the doll together, which is what I'll probably do.. I hope I won't break her shoulders..! I'll be extremely careful... and I will definitely give you feedback.
May 1, 2014, 9:19 pm
@ Evelin: By the way there's several techniques to duplicate the face plate. The easiest might be to make a silicone mold, and cast with acrylic resin. If you want to copy the face to adjust it on another doll, you can make a stamp using greenstuff. Humidify the part you want to copy first, so the green stuff won't stcik to it when it hardens. There's also products such as magic mold which is a silicone based rubber used to make molds.
April 22, 2014, 7:39 am
Hi Evelyn! Thank you for your order. These models are online for only a few weeks now. I sold a few, as i could see by the sales inventory section, but got no feedback. I would advise you take a good look at the instructions first. If you are afraid to break the material, do not paint the shoulders before assembly. These are the hardest parts in my opinion as they are very thin. I'm using a polishing cream to adjust them, so it polishes the contact surface between the two parts. If you don't have polishing cream, grease can do the trick aswell as it eases the insertion of these parts in their cavities. Please let me know if you have any issues, i will be happy to help. Thanks!
April 22, 2014, 7:26 am
I went ahead and placed my order today, can't wait to have her. If you decide to sell her head separately in he future I'd love to know. I'm pretty scared I'll screw up her face paint and it's my first time working with this material, I'm not sure how to correct mistakes. Oh, another question; do you know of any owners of this doll and if/where they have posted pictures of theirs?
April 21, 2014, 10:05 pm
Aahh, I see. Sorry to be bugging you but I have one more question: do you sell her head separately as well?
April 20, 2014, 7:50 am
@Evelien. Hi! The part of this one are especially thin. White strong and flexible requires a bigger wall thickness, And most parts in this object are too small to be printed in polyamide. Plus white strong and flexible has a grainy surface i didn't want on this model. Some articulations like the shoulders are very very thin. As you can guess, it is quite fragile and needs to be handled with care.
April 20, 2014, 7:41 am
P.S.: Why isn't strong and flexible plastic an option for this girl? Thanks in advance!
April 20, 2014, 5:58 am
Thank you for your quick reply!
April 12, 2014, 10:25 pm
@Evelien. I'm afraid not for such a small scale. It would break so easily that it would be a serious issue for most customers. Plus, i have to rely on existing products on the market for the eyeballs as the 3d printed ones would be ugly whatever i try. I didn't find nothing as small as 3mm diameter, wich is the biggest i could use. Now it would be much easier for the 1/6 scale doll, i'll thing this over ine the next months. Thank you!
April 12, 2014, 8:52 pm
Do you think you will someday design a head with real eye holes so small doll eyes can be inserted?
April 12, 2014, 12:42 pm
@synthoid. Hi I'm afraid not. However, the first design iteration which name is ALTER EGO 1/12 scale doll kit, can be printed in white strong and flexible.
April 10, 2014, 6:45 am
Can the product be made with less expensive material?
April 9, 2014, 9:32 pm
 
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