Update: I am currently working on an updated version, which is more robust and uses a more conventional 3-axis design (one servo per axis). I will leave this model available for spare parts. The new model is currently being tested and should be available soon.

 This is a 3-axis gyro-stabilsation gimbal for the GoPro HD Hero camera. Intended use is for aerial video and first-person view (FPV) flying.  
(Picture shows all the parts - camera is not included, and this is model here is only the back cage. Check the 3D model to see it. For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm.  You will also need 3x MKS470 servos, and a 16mm x 8mm ball bearing, not shown)

Video demonstration:

Assembly and servo test

Preliminary Gyro stabilisation test 




Current status: 
This is still work in progress - the current version has been slightly improved from the version in the video (I strengthened some of the elastic parts and improved the balancing). The gyro control board is my own design and currently not available yet. I will post an update once it is. The IMU is my design as well, and is available here.

You are welcome to order this design now, but be aware that it's still somewhat "beta". Whatever you do with it is entirely your own risk and responsibility, I unfortunately cannot make any claims towards its usefulness, stability or safety...

I would recommend, before you put this on a flying contraption, consider using a safety string to attach the camera to the plane somehow. GoPro cameras are very robust inside their waterproof case, but not quite so robust without that protection. They don't like crashing into the ground (and trust me, I know - as is probably obvious from the picture of my camera... in all fairness, it did mostly survive...)
Assembly instructions

For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm.  The bearing at the top is a 16mm outer, 8mm inner diameter ball bearing, available from many places. Hobbyking sells those as well.
I will possibly modify the mounting bracket in the future and also offer one with a smaller bearing... this one is total overkill! :)

The servos that will fit are the MKS DS470 (available e.g. from Hobbyking). They do have a little play, but they are very smooth and by far the fastest servo I've seen in that size and price class. I'm still on the lookout for different servos that might be a bit smoother.

Assembly:

1) Press the servos onto the mounting bracket and the flexible arms of the back cage.  What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the printed piece onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
Remove the servos again after this step.

2) Mount the 3 servos on the servo mounting frame.  Start with the yaw servo (the vertical one in the middle).The yaw servo crown has to face downwards (might be a bit fiddly). Make sure the crown of the yaw servo is aligned with the little stub axle on the opposite side. The two roll/pitch servos have to be inserted so that the crown faces the camera (towards the flat side of the mounting arm).

3) Press the mounting bracket onto the yaw servo crown, and put in the screw to hold it in place. On the opposite side, press in the 16mm/8mm ball bearing.

4) Carefully push the disk-shaped closure knob into the cylinder at the top of the camera back cage. You might need to rotate it a bit to ease it into place

5) Push the flexible arms of the back cage onto the two roll/pitch servos, and fix with screws.




-- Update: Seems the MKS has too much gain for the yaw axis, and tends to oscillate a bit with all that weight swinging around. They are fine for the Pitch/Roll arms. I'm still looking for a small servo with high speed, smoothness and no (or little) play... Suggestions are of course welcome!!

-- The servos are still a very tight fit into the control arms and the bracket. I already made it a bit larger, but still not enough. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the arms onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.

This is the bottom part of the OpenPilot CopterControl CC3D case. You also need the top part (CC3DCase upper) and (optionally) the base clip (Case base 1 v1). Note that this case is for the CC3D only. The base clip is common to both CC and CC3D versions.

More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case and http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CC3D+Case

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CC3D complete set?

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This is the top part of the OpenPilot CopterControl case. You also need the bottom part and (optionally) the base.

More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case

IMPORTANT NOTE: Due to some very slight dimensional differences, this case needs some minor modifications with a knife/file to fit the CC3D. A separate version is available for the CC3D.

Cool android hand that can be used as a paper weight or as an epic desktop item.

The part allows you to mount the Parallax Ping))) sensor on the Hitec HS-325HB Servo. It has been optimized for Shapeways printing with the Grey Robust material.

The activity light and connector pin outs are visible.

This part will require drilling and fasteners. Two M3x5mm and two M2x6mm screws are suggested. If you don''t have the necessary taps you can use nuts.

YouTube assembly Video is available here. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5oXFVhrQr8

Only if you know what you're doing ;-)

This lightweight mount allows you to mount a GoPro camera to the landing skid of an Align T-REX 450 Pro V2. The counter plate to fix the mount to the skid is not included, use a tie-wrap to fix the camera to the landing skid. If possible, attach the battery to the other side of the landing skid to act as a counter-weight. Fly carefully, I will not take responsibility for any damages.

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Want to get a set?

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For all supporters of Space Exploration and for all the supporters of Team PlanB, we would like to offer Silver Authentic Lunar Money 2013. 28.7g; .925 silver alloy; 0.85 ASW (0.85 troy ounce Actual Silver Weight); diameter 40.4 mm; thickness 3. mm; edge with the text "legal tender". Subject: Google Lunar XPRIZE. Obverse: nominal "1 Lunaro", with text" age of Aquarius", designer: Yuri Savenkov. Reverse: The far side of the Moon, 28 stars, text 2013, designer: Universe. Coin produced by 3D printing technology only. Each Lunaro Sterling pushes Team Plan B 97CDN closer to The Moon surface. see: http://www.adobri.com/ProjectSupport.aspx

Model of American drone captured in Iran - a.k.a The Beast of Kandahar, scale 1:200 (also available in 1:144, send me a message if want one) http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-middle-east-16154743

Right from the laboratory.

half size and price than bigger one

Compatible with the Parallax Ping))) sensor and the Hitec HS-325HB Servo.

This part requires drilling and fasteners after printing.

This is the thicker version which should be a bit stronger, however the activity light is not viewable.

Grey Robust is the recommended material.

120mm PC Fan Grill with custom text on it.

Big Sword designed to work with the FansProject Bruticus figure. This model looks great and is fully compatible with Bruticus. Ver.2 will have a thicker blade and possibly a cage to help prevent bending in shipping.

This is one finger for a Lego Technic gripper as used in the Mindstorms NXT 1.0 set (8527)
Unfortunately the new NXT 2.0 set (8547) contains different components and the gripper parts are no longer in the box.

As a real Lego addict I wanted to be able to use these fingers for some real gripping action but could not find them available on the internet. OK, you got me ... I am not a real addict otherwise I would have found a 2nd hand NXT 1.0 for sale somewhere ;-)

The design mimics the original Lego design but is different on some details.

Update on 2-Feb-11: The edges looked a bit rough due to the layering so I added a fillet to make the edges more smooth. Also made the mounting holes for axle and pegs a bit wider to have an easier fit on standard Lego components.

If you do not want to paint the fingers yourself, just select your color. The Alumide fits very well with the original Lego components.


Also have a look at the "set of 4", that set contains 4 grippers that are stacked together to create one larger part that is cheaper than 4 separate fingers.

LEGO® is a trademark of the LEGO Group of companies which does not sponsor, authorize or endorse this site.

Part to be used as support for the light foam wheel. - part of the quadcopter frame (under development)

The Mark 2 Anthromod hand.
A robotic hand that is fully printable.
Development blog

RoboBuilder wCK servo finger attachment - works with the thumb to make a gripper.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUU9v2JUhwk

Mechanized Sentry Bot for 25 mm mech warfare play!

Base is the 1"(25mm) Mochi Boy Indented Stand