Discover » Miniatures
by
TheoJansen
The third public evolution of the Animaris Geneticus Parvus. #7 has evolved legs, with pointy feet instead of flat. Featuring a fully working Theo Jansen mechanism as used in his work "the Rhinoceros".
Also see our new Propeller Propulsion add-on, to have your Strandbeest walk autonomously!
The mechanism is printed assembled, and will work without further assembly right after birth from the printer.
A few tips to consider:
- After birth there might be a little powder left in some joints, or it might not go supersmooth. This will fix itself after the animal has a little bit of practice!
- Some surfaces work better than others. The legs require a little friction, and a flat surface. So for example: A rough table or floor, thin flat carpeting, or a thin rubber sheet. It will slip on a too smooth surface.
- The best way to push it is by its nameplate. Do not push down, but forward.
- The beest is light, but quite strong. It can actually be dropped without breaking. It is not a "toy" however, and not suitable for children. The 3D printer material is easy to stain so clean hands are advised.
Also see our new Propeller Propulsion add-on, to have your Strandbeest walk autonomously!
The mechanism is printed assembled, and will work without further assembly right after birth from the printer.
A few tips to consider:
- After birth there might be a little powder left in some joints, or it might not go supersmooth. This will fix itself after the animal has a little bit of practice!
- Some surfaces work better than others. The legs require a little friction, and a flat surface. So for example: A rough table or floor, thin flat carpeting, or a thin rubber sheet. It will slip on a too smooth surface.
- The best way to push it is by its nameplate. Do not push down, but forward.
- The beest is light, but quite strong. It can actually be dropped without breaking. It is not a "toy" however, and not suitable for children. The 3D printer material is easy to stain so clean hands are advised.
by
roessnakhan
A replica of Cobb's totem from the film "Inception". As a below review has noted, and from my own version, the top works very well, and spins upwards of 90 seconds before toppling. You just might be in a dream.
by
fakebusker83
Version 4.0
A little robotic figure that transforms into a cyber cassette that fits nicely into the deluxe War for Cybertron Soundwave figure! It also has an alternate rocket launcher mode that can be mounted on any 5mm peg hole.
It comes with 2 cannon/piledriver accessories.
You can also arm the Thugger with either Driller or Slammer accessories!
Radicon thread here.
Flickr gallery here.
A little robotic figure that transforms into a cyber cassette that fits nicely into the deluxe War for Cybertron Soundwave figure! It also has an alternate rocket launcher mode that can be mounted on any 5mm peg hole.
It comes with 2 cannon/piledriver accessories.
You can also arm the Thugger with either Driller or Slammer accessories!
Radicon thread here.
Flickr gallery here.
by
TheoJansen
[Note: This propeller propulsion add-on does not include a 3D printed Strandbeest, which should be bought seperately! This propeller does not fit the Ondula version!]
Theo Jansen’s 3D printed Strandbeest continues to evolve with the addition of a Propeller Propulsion system! The 3D printed Strandbeests can now walk autonomously, powered by the wind, just like Theo's full-scale Strandbeests. The new propeller add-on gives new and existing owners of these kinetic sculptures a new way to set them in motion!
The propeller addition is available as a separate kit, which can be mounted on the 3D printed Strandbeests. The propeller is compatible with the various evolutions of the Strandbeest, so existing owners of the “AGP” 5 and 7 model Strandbeests can use it as well. Consisting of 5 main parts, it can be mounted on the Strandbeest body in a few simple steps.
Also see our videos of the Strandbeest Propulsion in action, and the video with mounting instructions.
The 3D printed Strandbeest is sold separately.
A few tips to consider:
- Please look at our instruction video on mounting the Propeller Propulsion add-on, here.
- After mounting the Propeller Propulsion add-on it is best left mounted. Frequent dis-assembly can wear down the material which can result in play on the mechanism.
Theo Jansen’s 3D printed Strandbeest continues to evolve with the addition of a Propeller Propulsion system! The 3D printed Strandbeests can now walk autonomously, powered by the wind, just like Theo's full-scale Strandbeests. The new propeller add-on gives new and existing owners of these kinetic sculptures a new way to set them in motion!
The propeller addition is available as a separate kit, which can be mounted on the 3D printed Strandbeests. The propeller is compatible with the various evolutions of the Strandbeest, so existing owners of the “AGP” 5 and 7 model Strandbeests can use it as well. Consisting of 5 main parts, it can be mounted on the Strandbeest body in a few simple steps.
Also see our videos of the Strandbeest Propulsion in action, and the video with mounting instructions.
The 3D printed Strandbeest is sold separately.
A few tips to consider:
- Please look at our instruction video on mounting the Propeller Propulsion add-on, here.
- After mounting the Propeller Propulsion add-on it is best left mounted. Frequent dis-assembly can wear down the material which can result in play on the mechanism.
by
QUATRO
Product Name "CLaDOS Ring". Designed by QUATRO.
Please note that this ring will come in a solid color/material! So please choose carefully! White plastic is good for DIY painting while steel and silver ones will shine your way to stardom :)
If you cannot find your size OR you just don't wear rings - try taking a look at my pendant!http://shpws.me/3NxX
Want to know more about the product?
Available in a variety of materials
The default size is ~20.32 mm in inner diameter but you can customize the size to your liking.
Click personalize to choose your US ring size.(Size support: # 8 to # 13.) Please refer to sizes at this page.
Conversion chart for ring sizes:
US Ring Size - Inside diameter
8 - 18.1mm
9 - 19.0mm
10 - 19.8mm
11 - 20.6mm
12 - 21.4mm
13 - 22.2mm
I hope you like this piece as much as I do:)
Be sure to tell a friend! Shop more at:
http://www.shapeways.com/shops/uncleQUATRO :)
Please note that this ring will come in a solid color/material! So please choose carefully! White plastic is good for DIY painting while steel and silver ones will shine your way to stardom :)
If you cannot find your size OR you just don't wear rings - try taking a look at my pendant!http://shpws.me/3NxX
Want to know more about the product?
Available in a variety of materials
The default size is ~20.32 mm in inner diameter but you can customize the size to your liking.
Click personalize to choose your US ring size.(Size support: # 8 to # 13.) Please refer to sizes at this page.
Conversion chart for ring sizes:
US Ring Size - Inside diameter
8 - 18.1mm
9 - 19.0mm
10 - 19.8mm
11 - 20.6mm
12 - 21.4mm
13 - 22.2mm
I hope you like this piece as much as I do:)
Be sure to tell a friend! Shop more at:
http://www.shapeways.com/shops/uncleQUATRO :)
by
s_f_x
Update: I am currently working on an updated version, which is more robust and uses a more conventional 3-axis design (one servo per axis). I will leave this model available for spare parts. The new model is currently being tested and should be available soon.
This is a 3-axis gyro-stabilsation gimbal for the GoPro HD Hero camera. Intended use is for aerial video and first-person view (FPV) flying.
(Picture shows all the parts - camera is not included, and this is model here is only the back cage. Check the 3D model to see it. For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. You will also need 3x MKS470 servos, and a 16mm x 8mm ball bearing, not shown)
Video demonstration:
Assembly and servo test
Preliminary Gyro stabilisation test
Current status:
This is still work in progress - the current version has been slightly improved from the version in the video (I strengthened some of the elastic parts and improved the balancing). The gyro control board is my own design and currently not available yet. I will post an update once it is. The IMU is my design as well, and is available here.
You are welcome to order this design now, but be aware that it's still somewhat "beta". Whatever you do with it is entirely your own risk and responsibility, I unfortunately cannot make any claims towards its usefulness, stability or safety...
I would recommend, before you put this on a flying contraption, consider using a safety string to attach the camera to the plane somehow. GoPro cameras are very robust inside their waterproof case, but not quite so robust without that protection. They don't like crashing into the ground (and trust me, I know - as is probably obvious from the picture of my camera... in all fairness, it did mostly survive...)
Assembly instructions
For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. The bearing at the top is a 16mm outer, 8mm inner diameter ball bearing, available from many places. Hobbyking sells those as well.
I will possibly modify the mounting bracket in the future and also offer one with a smaller bearing... this one is total overkill! :)
The servos that will fit are the MKS DS470 (available e.g. from Hobbyking). They do have a little play, but they are very smooth and by far the fastest servo I've seen in that size and price class. I'm still on the lookout for different servos that might be a bit smoother.
Assembly:
1) Press the servos onto the mounting bracket and the flexible arms of the back cage. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the printed piece onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
Remove the servos again after this step.
2) Mount the 3 servos on the servo mounting frame. Start with the yaw servo (the vertical one in the middle).The yaw servo crown has to face downwards (might be a bit fiddly). Make sure the crown of the yaw servo is aligned with the little stub axle on the opposite side. The two roll/pitch servos have to be inserted so that the crown faces the camera (towards the flat side of the mounting arm).
3) Press the mounting bracket onto the yaw servo crown, and put in the screw to hold it in place. On the opposite side, press in the 16mm/8mm ball bearing.
4) Carefully push the disk-shaped closure knob into the cylinder at the top of the camera back cage. You might need to rotate it a bit to ease it into place
5) Push the flexible arms of the back cage onto the two roll/pitch servos, and fix with screws.
-- Update: Seems the MKS has too much gain for the yaw axis, and tends to oscillate a bit with all that weight swinging around. They are fine for the Pitch/Roll arms. I'm still looking for a small servo with high speed, smoothness and no (or little) play... Suggestions are of course welcome!!
-- The servos are still a very tight fit into the control arms and the bracket. I already made it a bit larger, but still not enough. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the arms onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
This is a 3-axis gyro-stabilsation gimbal for the GoPro HD Hero camera. Intended use is for aerial video and first-person view (FPV) flying.
(Picture shows all the parts - camera is not included, and this is model here is only the back cage. Check the 3D model to see it. For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. You will also need 3x MKS470 servos, and a 16mm x 8mm ball bearing, not shown)
Video demonstration:
Assembly and servo test
Preliminary Gyro stabilisation test
Current status:
This is still work in progress - the current version has been slightly improved from the version in the video (I strengthened some of the elastic parts and improved the balancing). The gyro control board is my own design and currently not available yet. I will post an update once it is. The IMU is my design as well, and is available here.
You are welcome to order this design now, but be aware that it's still somewhat "beta". Whatever you do with it is entirely your own risk and responsibility, I unfortunately cannot make any claims towards its usefulness, stability or safety...
I would recommend, before you put this on a flying contraption, consider using a safety string to attach the camera to the plane somehow. GoPro cameras are very robust inside their waterproof case, but not quite so robust without that protection. They don't like crashing into the ground (and trust me, I know - as is probably obvious from the picture of my camera... in all fairness, it did mostly survive...)
Assembly instructions
For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. The bearing at the top is a 16mm outer, 8mm inner diameter ball bearing, available from many places. Hobbyking sells those as well.
I will possibly modify the mounting bracket in the future and also offer one with a smaller bearing... this one is total overkill! :)
The servos that will fit are the MKS DS470 (available e.g. from Hobbyking). They do have a little play, but they are very smooth and by far the fastest servo I've seen in that size and price class. I'm still on the lookout for different servos that might be a bit smoother.
Assembly:
1) Press the servos onto the mounting bracket and the flexible arms of the back cage. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the printed piece onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
Remove the servos again after this step.
2) Mount the 3 servos on the servo mounting frame. Start with the yaw servo (the vertical one in the middle).The yaw servo crown has to face downwards (might be a bit fiddly). Make sure the crown of the yaw servo is aligned with the little stub axle on the opposite side. The two roll/pitch servos have to be inserted so that the crown faces the camera (towards the flat side of the mounting arm).
3) Press the mounting bracket onto the yaw servo crown, and put in the screw to hold it in place. On the opposite side, press in the 16mm/8mm ball bearing.
4) Carefully push the disk-shaped closure knob into the cylinder at the top of the camera back cage. You might need to rotate it a bit to ease it into place
5) Push the flexible arms of the back cage onto the two roll/pitch servos, and fix with screws.
-- Update: Seems the MKS has too much gain for the yaw axis, and tends to oscillate a bit with all that weight swinging around. They are fine for the Pitch/Roll arms. I'm still looking for a small servo with high speed, smoothness and no (or little) play... Suggestions are of course welcome!!
-- The servos are still a very tight fit into the control arms and the bracket. I already made it a bit larger, but still not enough. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the arms onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
by
neuralfirings
Sad Keanu comes in two sizes
Both are equally sad.
Teeny Keanu ($25) Little Keanu ($45)Want to get both?
+ 
Cheer up, Little Keanu Reeves, it's ok. Just finish your sandwich and march on. Life is like a box of chocolate. Which pill will you choose? There is no spoon. You can't handle the truth! Wait. What was I doing again?
by
neuralfirings
Cheer up, Little Keanu Reeves, it's ok. Just finish your sandwich and march on. Life is like a box of chocolate. Which pill will you choose? There is no spoon. You can't handle the truth! Wait. What was I doing again?
Sad Keanu comes in two sizes. Both are equally sad.
Teeny Keanu -- 2.6inches -- ($25) Little Keanu -- 4inches -- ($45)
+
Sad Keanu comes in two sizes. Both are equally sad.
Teeny Keanu -- 2.6inches -- ($25) Little Keanu -- 4inches -- ($45)Want to get a set?
+ 
by
TheoJansen
The first public evolution of the Animaris Geneticus Parvus, #5. Featuring a fully working Theo Jansen mechanism as used in his work "the Rhinoceros". The mechanism is printed assembled, and will work without further assembly right after birth from the printer.
Also see our new Propeller Propulsion add-on, to have your Strandbeest walk autonomously!
A few tips to consider:
- After birth there might be a little powder left in some joints, or it might not go supersmooth. This will fix itself after the animal has a little bit of practice!
- Some surfaces work better than others. The legs require a little friction, and a flat surface. So for example: A rough table or floor, thin flat carpeting, or a thin rubber sheet.
- The best way to push it is by its nameplate. Do not push down, but forward
Also see our new Propeller Propulsion add-on, to have your Strandbeest walk autonomously!
A few tips to consider:
- After birth there might be a little powder left in some joints, or it might not go supersmooth. This will fix itself after the animal has a little bit of practice!
- Some surfaces work better than others. The legs require a little friction, and a flat surface. So for example: A rough table or floor, thin flat carpeting, or a thin rubber sheet.
- The best way to push it is by its nameplate. Do not push down, but forward
by
lens42
Make your own slide-on macro lens for the iPhone 4 or 4S. I designed this for my iPhone 4 when I couldn't find the image quality I wanted for less than $60.
Print this model and then buy the glass lens for $4 from Surplus Shed (http://www.surplusshed.com/). The Surplus Shed part number is L4471. For some reason the search box on the Surplus Shed home page does not work with part numbers. To get to L4471, use the "Lens Finder". In the Lens Finder type:
Print this model and then buy the glass lens for $4 from Surplus Shed (http://www.surplusshed.com/). The Surplus Shed part number is L4471. For some reason the search box on the Surplus Shed home page does not work with part numbers. To get to L4471, use the "Lens Finder". In the Lens Finder type:
Lens Type: PCX, Plano Convex
Diameter: 12mm to 12mm
Focal length: 51mm to 51mm
It will get you to L4471
The lens fits in a recess in the model and is held in place with a few tiny drops of Superglue. If you get any glue on the lens it can cleaned off with nail polish remover or acetone. The lens is plano-convex (one side is flat). When inserted in the holder, the flat side of the lens faces the phone.
Note that the lens fits pretty snugly into the opening. Try fitting the lens before applying any glue. A good technique is, with the lens holder laying face-down on a table, lay the lens in position, and then push it into the recess by poking the lens with the eraser-end of a pencil. Once you know the lens fits cleanly, push it back out and put two tiny drops of superglue on opposite edges of the opening. I use a toothpick to apply the glue because squeezing the superglue directly out of the tube risks putting on too much. Then push the lens back in the same way as in the test fit.
The object pictures in the photo gallery (dime, ruler, and watch) are unedited and uncropped shots directly from my iPhone4.
This model will not slide over iPhone cases.
by
trompevenlo
I would like to introduce to you the sculpture »You & Me« from the »Scrappies« figurine family. It represents love, affection and mutual commitment - emotions that everyone values and never lose their significance.
The »Scrappies« are inspired by everything you can find in a scrapyard: old nuts and bolts, tin cans, pipes, coils, parts of ball bearings.
But they are actually manufactured in a totally different, novel »3D printing« process. Each of them is made in one piece from fine metal powders.
I had initially made the »You & Me« sculpture as a unique gift for our 30th wedding anniversary, but when Christiane placed the Scrappies on her office desk, her collegues loved them so much that we thought why not share it and make it available to others.
Therefore, and for a limited time, I am offering you my work here, outside of the traditional channels of exhibiting and selling art. Each figurine will be customized with your initials of choice. I will make and ship a unique »You & Me« sculpture for every supporter, be it one or many.
by
kampfflieger
1/144 Sopwith Triplane British WWI fighter.
Perfect for the wargamers and collectors.
Perfect for the wargamers and collectors.
by
DavidSun
As seen on blog.objet.com, this is the updated model of the one shown in video.
Now you can open the doors! This is the mid size model -- 2cm long. NO ASSEMBLY REQUIRED!
You are getting one model per print/order.
Let me know if anyone needs special text version. (thank you, happy birthday, etc)
** The older model, shown in video, is also available in my shop. **
by
fakebusker83
Version 1.6
A little robotic cat that transforms into a cyber cassette that fits into the deluxe War for Cybertron Soundwave figure! It comes with 2 detachable missile accessories.
Radicon thread here.
Flickr thread here.
A little robotic cat that transforms into a cyber cassette that fits into the deluxe War for Cybertron Soundwave figure! It comes with 2 detachable missile accessories.
Radicon thread here.
Flickr thread here.
by
kampfflieger
1/144 scale model of the famous Fokker Dr.I Triplane, the WWI fighter.
Perfect for the wargamers and collectors.
Perfect for the wargamers and collectors.
by
stefdevos
This detailed model of the moon is hollow and therefore very price efficient. It will balance on a small gap on the bottom. You can also hang it on a wire using a bent paperclip. See video and images. Made for full color sandstone.
by
dynath
Check out my blog: http://dynath40k.blogspot.com/
Ok so I can't edit my original description. great. I'm redoing this model to print in FUD exclusively. Expect higher detail and lower FUD cost. All things in good time.
by
tedparsec
My third attempt to 3d print a rpg miniature.
I've tried to have fun with the position and the balance of the model. Same as with my other models, i expect some serious detail loss, that's why I've put emphasis on the silhouette of each figure, to make them very distinguishable, even at this scale.
I've tried to have fun with the position and the balance of the model. Same as with my other models, i expect some serious detail loss, that's why I've put emphasis on the silhouette of each figure, to make them very distinguishable, even at this scale.
by
mu3d93
This is a fun gadget that you can have you in house to show your friends how the sphere was printed inside the rail and you can never detach it!
http://www.shapeways.com/model/edit/605978/ [NEW] Buy the v2.0!:
http://www.shapeways.com/model/108596/rail-with-a-ball-inside-keychain.html Buy the Keychain version
by
boustalahit
"I feel like I could.... LIKE I COULD.... take over the world !!"
This figurine is a fan art inspired by the great game "Day of the Tentacles" back in the nineties. The character shown is the evil purple tentacle who has drunk some toxic waste : as a result, two arms and a bad mood about humans...
I really recommand you the game if you find it somewhere (it's a collector now).
Please note that I don't do any markup on the price. I'd love your comment on your order too :)
by
joabaldwin
Half Life 2 meets Portal. Gordon Freeman and Alyx Vance's best friend, DOG, contemplating the beauty of his new toy, a companion cube. What else could you possibly want? Oh, that's right, Half-Life 2 Episode 3 would be nice...
Gabe, are you listening?
This uses the original texture maps from the game, you can even see the Lambda Half Life logo on DOG's back.
It wasn't easy! I had to remap all the textures manually, and fix all the geometry to make it printable and thick enough to support the weight. I also made most large pieces hollow, but you won't notice that at all (except in the reduced price this provided).
Gabe, are you listening?
This uses the original texture maps from the game, you can even see the Lambda Half Life logo on DOG's back.
It wasn't easy! I had to remap all the textures manually, and fix all the geometry to make it printable and thick enough to support the weight. I also made most large pieces hollow, but you won't notice that at all (except in the reduced price this provided).
by
fakebusker83
Version 4.5: Edited for peg locks to be sturdier.
Finally, after a long wait and 4(!) iterations of design, here is the release version of the much anticipated Snitch! The Snitch is a robotic avian that transforms into a cyber-cassette mode which stores in the War for Cybertron deluxe Soundwave figure!
This version is successfully tested on WSF and FUD.
Radicon thread here
Flickr gallery here.
Finally, after a long wait and 4(!) iterations of design, here is the release version of the much anticipated Snitch! The Snitch is a robotic avian that transforms into a cyber-cassette mode which stores in the War for Cybertron deluxe Soundwave figure!
This version is successfully tested on WSF and FUD.
Radicon thread here
Flickr gallery here.
by
VF5SS
Part designed by Sanjeev for use with Kanzen Henkei Fighter Variable (all types). Comes with two complete hinges. 4 mm type. Uses existing screws and pins from stock toy. Can also use same size metal tacks for hinge joint.
Visit Sanjeev's toy studio at http://brownnoize.blogspot.com/
by
aegidian
Ten 1:200 scale miniatures in the the style of a 2010/2011 season Formula One car (with a small rear wing, large 'snowplough' front wing, high nose and slim 'coke-bottle' engine cover.)
Designed to be made in Stainless Steel, but equally good in white/black/transparent detail acrylic. Supplied unpainted, but with a good eye and a fine brush you should be able to recreate most team liveries.
Designed to be made in Stainless Steel, but equally good in white/black/transparent detail acrylic. Supplied unpainted, but with a good eye and a fine brush you should be able to recreate most team liveries.
by
Pazu
Working centrifugal compressor.
Designed to fit standard Mabuchi 130 motors.
Printed and tested.
Upon receiving the item, you'll need to use a 1.8mm drill bit to drill out the center hole. This is due to limitation of the printing process that may not allow the shaft of the motor to be inserted.
Designed to fit standard Mabuchi 130 motors.
Printed and tested.
Upon receiving the item, you'll need to use a 1.8mm drill bit to drill out the center hole. This is due to limitation of the printing process that may not allow the shaft of the motor to be inserted.
by
susan-parker
Over 100 latches ordered in the last 12 months!
Replacement stainless-steel upgrade / repair latch part for the Panasonic SD253 seed / nut dispenser (see pictures).
Easy to fit with a cross head screwdriver.
1. Remove dispenser from lid (it just pops out).
2. Wash?
3. Remove old latch part by undoing the two cross head screws and lifting out U bracket.
4. Rescue the small spring which keeps the latch engaged.
5. This spring has one end that narrows down slightly. Hold the very end of this with tweezers or needle point pliers and then wrap the spring onto the cross (a tooth pick or a match end is handy for this).
6. Place new latch in position, add bracket and resecure with the two screws.
7. Make bread.
Any help / comments please get in touch.
Replacement stainless-steel upgrade / repair latch part for the Panasonic SD253 seed / nut dispenser (see pictures).
Easy to fit with a cross head screwdriver.
1. Remove dispenser from lid (it just pops out).
2. Wash?
3. Remove old latch part by undoing the two cross head screws and lifting out U bracket.
4. Rescue the small spring which keeps the latch engaged.
5. This spring has one end that narrows down slightly. Hold the very end of this with tweezers or needle point pliers and then wrap the spring onto the cross (a tooth pick or a match end is handy for this).
6. Place new latch in position, add bracket and resecure with the two screws.
7. Make bread.
Any help / comments please get in touch.
by
kampfflieger
1/144 Sopwith Pup British WWI fighter.
The Sopwith Pup was a British single seater biplane fighter aircraft built by the Sopwith Aviation Company. It entered service with the Royal Flying Corps and the Royal Naval Air Service in the autumn of 1916. With pleasant flying characteristics and good maneuverability, the aircraft proved very successful. The Pup was eventually outclassed by newer German fighters, but it was not completely replaced on the Western Front until the end of 1917.
The Sopwith Pup was a British single seater biplane fighter aircraft built by the Sopwith Aviation Company. It entered service with the Royal Flying Corps and the Royal Naval Air Service in the autumn of 1916. With pleasant flying characteristics and good maneuverability, the aircraft proved very successful. The Pup was eventually outclassed by newer German fighters, but it was not completely replaced on the Western Front until the end of 1917.
Perfect for the wargamers and collectors.
by
kampfflieger
1/144 Bristol F2B British WWI two-seat fighter and light bomber.
The Bristol F.2 Fighter was a British two-seat biplane fighter and reconnaissance aircraft of the First World War flown by the Royal Flying Corps. It is often simply called the Bristol Fighter or popularly the "Brisfit" or "Biff". Despite being a two-seater, the F.2B proved to be an agile aircraft that was able to hold its own against opposing single-seat fighters.
The Bristol F.2 Fighter was a British two-seat biplane fighter and reconnaissance aircraft of the First World War flown by the Royal Flying Corps. It is often simply called the Bristol Fighter or popularly the "Brisfit" or "Biff". Despite being a two-seater, the F.2B proved to be an agile aircraft that was able to hold its own against opposing single-seat fighters.
Perfect for the wargamers and collectors.
by
edrice
An assassin's ring with a gap in the bottom to activate a hidden blade. The ring itself is about 20.98mm wide, that should translate to 11 1/2 ring size in the US.
by
kampfflieger
1/144 Fokker D.VII German WWI fighter.
Perfect for the wargamers and collectors.
Please, see instruction before build model.
Perfect for the wargamers and collectors.
Please, see instruction before build model.
by
sevensheaven
A full-color, high-quality 3D-printed bust of the legendary, celebrated former Apple founder and CEO Steve Jobs, modeled and textured in a retro 3D pixel style by the Dutch Sevensheaven design studio.
Having this remarkable and unique gadget on your desk will undoubtedly make your friends and colleagues very jealous and earn you eternal respect.
Combine Steve Jobs with the also available Steve Wozniak bust to reunite the founding fathers of Apple on your desk.
Having this remarkable and unique gadget on your desk will undoubtedly make your friends and colleagues very jealous and earn you eternal respect.
Combine Steve Jobs with the also available Steve Wozniak bust to reunite the founding fathers of Apple on your desk.
