Discover » Miniatures
by
TheoJansen
The third public evolution of the Animaris Geneticus Parvus. #7 has evolved legs, with pointy feet instead of flat. Featuring a fully working Theo Jansen mechanism as used in his work "the Rhinoceros".
Also see our new Propeller Propulsion add-on, to have your Strandbeest walk autonomously!
The mechanism is printed assembled, and will work without further assembly right after birth from the printer.
A few tips to consider:
- After birth there might be a little powder left in some joints, or it might not go supersmooth. This will fix itself after the animal has a little bit of practice!
- Some surfaces work better than others. The legs require a little friction, and a flat surface. So for example: A rough table or floor, thin flat carpeting, or a thin rubber sheet. It will slip on a too smooth surface.
- The best way to push it is by its nameplate. Do not push down, but forward.
- The beest is light, but quite strong. It can actually be dropped without breaking. It is not a "toy" however, and not suitable for children. The 3D printer material is easy to stain so clean hands are advised.
Also see our new Propeller Propulsion add-on, to have your Strandbeest walk autonomously!
The mechanism is printed assembled, and will work without further assembly right after birth from the printer.
A few tips to consider:
- After birth there might be a little powder left in some joints, or it might not go supersmooth. This will fix itself after the animal has a little bit of practice!
- Some surfaces work better than others. The legs require a little friction, and a flat surface. So for example: A rough table or floor, thin flat carpeting, or a thin rubber sheet. It will slip on a too smooth surface.
- The best way to push it is by its nameplate. Do not push down, but forward.
- The beest is light, but quite strong. It can actually be dropped without breaking. It is not a "toy" however, and not suitable for children. The 3D printer material is easy to stain so clean hands are advised.
by
roessnakhan
A replica of Cobb's totem from the film "Inception". As a below review has noted, and from my own version, the top works very well, and spins upwards of 90 seconds before toppling. You just might be in a dream.
by
fakebusker83
Version 4.0
A little robotic figure that transforms into a cyber cassette that fits nicely into the deluxe War for Cybertron Soundwave figure! It also has an alternate rocket launcher mode that can be mounted on any 5mm peg hole.
It comes with 2 cannon/piledriver accessories.
You can also arm the Thugger with either Driller or Slammer accessories!
Radicon thread here.
Flickr gallery here.
A little robotic figure that transforms into a cyber cassette that fits nicely into the deluxe War for Cybertron Soundwave figure! It also has an alternate rocket launcher mode that can be mounted on any 5mm peg hole.
It comes with 2 cannon/piledriver accessories.
You can also arm the Thugger with either Driller or Slammer accessories!
Radicon thread here.
Flickr gallery here.
by
TheoJansen
[Note: This propeller propulsion add-on does not include a 3D printed Strandbeest, which should be bought seperately! This propeller does not fit the Ondula version!]
Theo Jansen’s 3D printed Strandbeest continues to evolve with the addition of a Propeller Propulsion system! The 3D printed Strandbeests can now walk autonomously, powered by the wind, just like Theo's full-scale Strandbeests. The new propeller add-on gives new and existing owners of these kinetic sculptures a new way to set them in motion!
The propeller addition is available as a separate kit, which can be mounted on the 3D printed Strandbeests. The propeller is compatible with the various evolutions of the Strandbeest, so existing owners of the “AGP” 5 and 7 model Strandbeests can use it as well. Consisting of 5 main parts, it can be mounted on the Strandbeest body in a few simple steps.
Also see our videos of the Strandbeest Propulsion in action, and the video with mounting instructions.
The 3D printed Strandbeest is sold separately.
A few tips to consider:
- Please look at our instruction video on mounting the Propeller Propulsion add-on, here.
- After mounting the Propeller Propulsion add-on it is best left mounted. Frequent dis-assembly can wear down the material which can result in play on the mechanism.
Theo Jansen’s 3D printed Strandbeest continues to evolve with the addition of a Propeller Propulsion system! The 3D printed Strandbeests can now walk autonomously, powered by the wind, just like Theo's full-scale Strandbeests. The new propeller add-on gives new and existing owners of these kinetic sculptures a new way to set them in motion!
The propeller addition is available as a separate kit, which can be mounted on the 3D printed Strandbeests. The propeller is compatible with the various evolutions of the Strandbeest, so existing owners of the “AGP” 5 and 7 model Strandbeests can use it as well. Consisting of 5 main parts, it can be mounted on the Strandbeest body in a few simple steps.
Also see our videos of the Strandbeest Propulsion in action, and the video with mounting instructions.
The 3D printed Strandbeest is sold separately.
A few tips to consider:
- Please look at our instruction video on mounting the Propeller Propulsion add-on, here.
- After mounting the Propeller Propulsion add-on it is best left mounted. Frequent dis-assembly can wear down the material which can result in play on the mechanism.
by
QUATRO
Product Name "CLaDOS Ring". Designed by QUATRO.
Please note that this ring will come in a solid color/material! So please choose carefully! White plastic is good for DIY painting while steel and silver ones will shine your way to stardom :)
If you cannot find your size OR you just don't wear rings - try taking a look at my pendant!http://shpws.me/3NxX
Want to know more about the product?
Available in a variety of materials
The default size is ~20.32 mm in inner diameter but you can customize the size to your liking.
Click personalize to choose your US ring size.(Size support: # 8 to # 13.) Please refer to sizes at this page.
Conversion chart for ring sizes:
US Ring Size - Inside diameter
8 - 18.1mm
9 - 19.0mm
10 - 19.8mm
11 - 20.6mm
12 - 21.4mm
13 - 22.2mm
I hope you like this piece as much as I do:)
Be sure to tell a friend! Shop more at:
http://www.shapeways.com/shops/uncleQUATRO :)
Please note that this ring will come in a solid color/material! So please choose carefully! White plastic is good for DIY painting while steel and silver ones will shine your way to stardom :)
If you cannot find your size OR you just don't wear rings - try taking a look at my pendant!http://shpws.me/3NxX
Want to know more about the product?
Available in a variety of materials
The default size is ~20.32 mm in inner diameter but you can customize the size to your liking.
Click personalize to choose your US ring size.(Size support: # 8 to # 13.) Please refer to sizes at this page.
Conversion chart for ring sizes:
US Ring Size - Inside diameter
8 - 18.1mm
9 - 19.0mm
10 - 19.8mm
11 - 20.6mm
12 - 21.4mm
13 - 22.2mm
I hope you like this piece as much as I do:)
Be sure to tell a friend! Shop more at:
http://www.shapeways.com/shops/uncleQUATRO :)
by
s_f_x
Update: I am currently working on an updated version, which is more robust and uses a more conventional 3-axis design (one servo per axis). I will leave this model available for spare parts. The new model is currently being tested and should be available soon.
This is a 3-axis gyro-stabilsation gimbal for the GoPro HD Hero camera. Intended use is for aerial video and first-person view (FPV) flying.
(Picture shows all the parts - camera is not included, and this is model here is only the back cage. Check the 3D model to see it. For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. You will also need 3x MKS470 servos, and a 16mm x 8mm ball bearing, not shown)
Video demonstration:
Assembly and servo test
Preliminary Gyro stabilisation test
Current status:
This is still work in progress - the current version has been slightly improved from the version in the video (I strengthened some of the elastic parts and improved the balancing). The gyro control board is my own design and currently not available yet. I will post an update once it is. The IMU is my design as well, and is available here.
You are welcome to order this design now, but be aware that it's still somewhat "beta". Whatever you do with it is entirely your own risk and responsibility, I unfortunately cannot make any claims towards its usefulness, stability or safety...
I would recommend, before you put this on a flying contraption, consider using a safety string to attach the camera to the plane somehow. GoPro cameras are very robust inside their waterproof case, but not quite so robust without that protection. They don't like crashing into the ground (and trust me, I know - as is probably obvious from the picture of my camera... in all fairness, it did mostly survive...)
Assembly instructions
For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. The bearing at the top is a 16mm outer, 8mm inner diameter ball bearing, available from many places. Hobbyking sells those as well.
I will possibly modify the mounting bracket in the future and also offer one with a smaller bearing... this one is total overkill! :)
The servos that will fit are the MKS DS470 (available e.g. from Hobbyking). They do have a little play, but they are very smooth and by far the fastest servo I've seen in that size and price class. I'm still on the lookout for different servos that might be a bit smoother.
Assembly:
1) Press the servos onto the mounting bracket and the flexible arms of the back cage. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the printed piece onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
Remove the servos again after this step.
2) Mount the 3 servos on the servo mounting frame. Start with the yaw servo (the vertical one in the middle).The yaw servo crown has to face downwards (might be a bit fiddly). Make sure the crown of the yaw servo is aligned with the little stub axle on the opposite side. The two roll/pitch servos have to be inserted so that the crown faces the camera (towards the flat side of the mounting arm).
3) Press the mounting bracket onto the yaw servo crown, and put in the screw to hold it in place. On the opposite side, press in the 16mm/8mm ball bearing.
4) Carefully push the disk-shaped closure knob into the cylinder at the top of the camera back cage. You might need to rotate it a bit to ease it into place
5) Push the flexible arms of the back cage onto the two roll/pitch servos, and fix with screws.
-- Update: Seems the MKS has too much gain for the yaw axis, and tends to oscillate a bit with all that weight swinging around. They are fine for the Pitch/Roll arms. I'm still looking for a small servo with high speed, smoothness and no (or little) play... Suggestions are of course welcome!!
-- The servos are still a very tight fit into the control arms and the bracket. I already made it a bit larger, but still not enough. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the arms onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
This is a 3-axis gyro-stabilsation gimbal for the GoPro HD Hero camera. Intended use is for aerial video and first-person view (FPV) flying.
(Picture shows all the parts - camera is not included, and this is model here is only the back cage. Check the 3D model to see it. For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. You will also need 3x MKS470 servos, and a 16mm x 8mm ball bearing, not shown)
Video demonstration:
Assembly and servo test
Preliminary Gyro stabilisation test
Current status:
This is still work in progress - the current version has been slightly improved from the version in the video (I strengthened some of the elastic parts and improved the balancing). The gyro control board is my own design and currently not available yet. I will post an update once it is. The IMU is my design as well, and is available here.
You are welcome to order this design now, but be aware that it's still somewhat "beta". Whatever you do with it is entirely your own risk and responsibility, I unfortunately cannot make any claims towards its usefulness, stability or safety...
I would recommend, before you put this on a flying contraption, consider using a safety string to attach the camera to the plane somehow. GoPro cameras are very robust inside their waterproof case, but not quite so robust without that protection. They don't like crashing into the ground (and trust me, I know - as is probably obvious from the picture of my camera... in all fairness, it did mostly survive...)
Assembly instructions
For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. The bearing at the top is a 16mm outer, 8mm inner diameter ball bearing, available from many places. Hobbyking sells those as well.
I will possibly modify the mounting bracket in the future and also offer one with a smaller bearing... this one is total overkill! :)
The servos that will fit are the MKS DS470 (available e.g. from Hobbyking). They do have a little play, but they are very smooth and by far the fastest servo I've seen in that size and price class. I'm still on the lookout for different servos that might be a bit smoother.
Assembly:
1) Press the servos onto the mounting bracket and the flexible arms of the back cage. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the printed piece onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
Remove the servos again after this step.
2) Mount the 3 servos on the servo mounting frame. Start with the yaw servo (the vertical one in the middle).The yaw servo crown has to face downwards (might be a bit fiddly). Make sure the crown of the yaw servo is aligned with the little stub axle on the opposite side. The two roll/pitch servos have to be inserted so that the crown faces the camera (towards the flat side of the mounting arm).
3) Press the mounting bracket onto the yaw servo crown, and put in the screw to hold it in place. On the opposite side, press in the 16mm/8mm ball bearing.
4) Carefully push the disk-shaped closure knob into the cylinder at the top of the camera back cage. You might need to rotate it a bit to ease it into place
5) Push the flexible arms of the back cage onto the two roll/pitch servos, and fix with screws.
-- Update: Seems the MKS has too much gain for the yaw axis, and tends to oscillate a bit with all that weight swinging around. They are fine for the Pitch/Roll arms. I'm still looking for a small servo with high speed, smoothness and no (or little) play... Suggestions are of course welcome!!
-- The servos are still a very tight fit into the control arms and the bracket. I already made it a bit larger, but still not enough. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the arms onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
by
neuralfirings
Sad Keanu comes in two sizes
Both are equally sad.
Teeny Keanu ($25) Little Keanu ($45)Want to get both?
+ 
Cheer up, Little Keanu Reeves, it's ok. Just finish your sandwich and march on. Life is like a box of chocolate. Which pill will you choose? There is no spoon. You can't handle the truth! Wait. What was I doing again?
by
neuralfirings
Cheer up, Little Keanu Reeves, it's ok. Just finish your sandwich and march on. Life is like a box of chocolate. Which pill will you choose? There is no spoon. You can't handle the truth! Wait. What was I doing again?
Sad Keanu comes in two sizes. Both are equally sad.
Teeny Keanu -- 2.6inches -- ($25) Little Keanu -- 4inches -- ($45)
+
Sad Keanu comes in two sizes. Both are equally sad.
Teeny Keanu -- 2.6inches -- ($25) Little Keanu -- 4inches -- ($45)Want to get a set?
+ 
by
TheoJansen
The first public evolution of the Animaris Geneticus Parvus, #5. Featuring a fully working Theo Jansen mechanism as used in his work "the Rhinoceros". The mechanism is printed assembled, and will work without further assembly right after birth from the printer.
Also see our new Propeller Propulsion add-on, to have your Strandbeest walk autonomously!
A few tips to consider:
- After birth there might be a little powder left in some joints, or it might not go supersmooth. This will fix itself after the animal has a little bit of practice!
- Some surfaces work better than others. The legs require a little friction, and a flat surface. So for example: A rough table or floor, thin flat carpeting, or a thin rubber sheet.
- The best way to push it is by its nameplate. Do not push down, but forward
Also see our new Propeller Propulsion add-on, to have your Strandbeest walk autonomously!
A few tips to consider:
- After birth there might be a little powder left in some joints, or it might not go supersmooth. This will fix itself after the animal has a little bit of practice!
- Some surfaces work better than others. The legs require a little friction, and a flat surface. So for example: A rough table or floor, thin flat carpeting, or a thin rubber sheet.
- The best way to push it is by its nameplate. Do not push down, but forward
by
lens42
Make your own slide-on macro lens for the iPhone 4 or 4S. I designed this for my iPhone 4 when I couldn't find the image quality I wanted for less than $60.
Print this model and then buy the glass lens for $4 from Surplus Shed (http://www.surplusshed.com/). The Surplus Shed part number is L4471. For some reason the search box on the Surplus Shed home page does not work with part numbers. To get to L4471, use the "Lens Finder". In the Lens Finder type:
Print this model and then buy the glass lens for $4 from Surplus Shed (http://www.surplusshed.com/). The Surplus Shed part number is L4471. For some reason the search box on the Surplus Shed home page does not work with part numbers. To get to L4471, use the "Lens Finder". In the Lens Finder type:
Lens Type: PCX, Plano Convex
Diameter: 12mm to 12mm
Focal length: 51mm to 51mm
It will get you to L4471
The lens fits in a recess in the model and is held in place with a few tiny drops of Superglue. If you get any glue on the lens it can cleaned off with nail polish remover or acetone. The lens is plano-convex (one side is flat). When inserted in the holder, the flat side of the lens faces the phone.
Note that the lens fits pretty snugly into the opening. Try fitting the lens before applying any glue. A good technique is, with the lens holder laying face-down on a table, lay the lens in position, and then push it into the recess by poking the lens with the eraser-end of a pencil. Once you know the lens fits cleanly, push it back out and put two tiny drops of superglue on opposite edges of the opening. I use a toothpick to apply the glue because squeezing the superglue directly out of the tube risks putting on too much. Then push the lens back in the same way as in the test fit.
The object pictures in the photo gallery (dime, ruler, and watch) are unedited and uncropped shots directly from my iPhone4.
This model will not slide over iPhone cases.
by
trompevenlo
I would like to introduce to you the sculpture »You & Me« from the »Scrappies« figurine family. It represents love, affection and mutual commitment - emotions that everyone values and never lose their significance.
The »Scrappies« are inspired by everything you can find in a scrapyard: old nuts and bolts, tin cans, pipes, coils, parts of ball bearings.
But they are actually manufactured in a totally different, novel »3D printing« process. Each of them is made in one piece from fine metal powders.
I had initially made the »You & Me« sculpture as a unique gift for our 30th wedding anniversary, but when Christiane placed the Scrappies on her office desk, her collegues loved them so much that we thought why not share it and make it available to others.
Therefore, and for a limited time, I am offering you my work here, outside of the traditional channels of exhibiting and selling art. Each figurine will be customized with your initials of choice. I will make and ship a unique »You & Me« sculpture for every supporter, be it one or many.
