Discover » Maker/DIY
by
s_f_x
Update: I am currently working on an updated version, which is more robust and uses a more conventional 3-axis design (one servo per axis). I will leave this model available for spare parts. The new model is currently being tested and should be available soon.
This is a 3-axis gyro-stabilsation gimbal for the GoPro HD Hero camera. Intended use is for aerial video and first-person view (FPV) flying.
(Picture shows all the parts - camera is not included, and this is model here is only the back cage. Check the 3D model to see it. For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. You will also need 3x MKS470 servos, and a 16mm x 8mm ball bearing, not shown)
Video demonstration:
Assembly and servo test
Preliminary Gyro stabilisation test
Current status:
This is still work in progress - the current version has been slightly improved from the version in the video (I strengthened some of the elastic parts and improved the balancing). The gyro control board is my own design and currently not available yet. I will post an update once it is. The IMU is my design as well, and is available here.
You are welcome to order this design now, but be aware that it's still somewhat "beta". Whatever you do with it is entirely your own risk and responsibility, I unfortunately cannot make any claims towards its usefulness, stability or safety...
I would recommend, before you put this on a flying contraption, consider using a safety string to attach the camera to the plane somehow. GoPro cameras are very robust inside their waterproof case, but not quite so robust without that protection. They don't like crashing into the ground (and trust me, I know - as is probably obvious from the picture of my camera... in all fairness, it did mostly survive...)
Assembly instructions
For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. The bearing at the top is a 16mm outer, 8mm inner diameter ball bearing, available from many places. Hobbyking sells those as well.
I will possibly modify the mounting bracket in the future and also offer one with a smaller bearing... this one is total overkill! :)
The servos that will fit are the MKS DS470 (available e.g. from Hobbyking). They do have a little play, but they are very smooth and by far the fastest servo I've seen in that size and price class. I'm still on the lookout for different servos that might be a bit smoother.
Assembly:
1) Press the servos onto the mounting bracket and the flexible arms of the back cage. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the printed piece onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
Remove the servos again after this step.
2) Mount the 3 servos on the servo mounting frame. Start with the yaw servo (the vertical one in the middle).The yaw servo crown has to face downwards (might be a bit fiddly). Make sure the crown of the yaw servo is aligned with the little stub axle on the opposite side. The two roll/pitch servos have to be inserted so that the crown faces the camera (towards the flat side of the mounting arm).
3) Press the mounting bracket onto the yaw servo crown, and put in the screw to hold it in place. On the opposite side, press in the 16mm/8mm ball bearing.
4) Carefully push the disk-shaped closure knob into the cylinder at the top of the camera back cage. You might need to rotate it a bit to ease it into place
5) Push the flexible arms of the back cage onto the two roll/pitch servos, and fix with screws.
-- Update: Seems the MKS has too much gain for the yaw axis, and tends to oscillate a bit with all that weight swinging around. They are fine for the Pitch/Roll arms. I'm still looking for a small servo with high speed, smoothness and no (or little) play... Suggestions are of course welcome!!
-- The servos are still a very tight fit into the control arms and the bracket. I already made it a bit larger, but still not enough. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the arms onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
This is a 3-axis gyro-stabilsation gimbal for the GoPro HD Hero camera. Intended use is for aerial video and first-person view (FPV) flying.
(Picture shows all the parts - camera is not included, and this is model here is only the back cage. Check the 3D model to see it. For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. You will also need 3x MKS470 servos, and a 16mm x 8mm ball bearing, not shown)
Video demonstration:
Assembly and servo test
Preliminary Gyro stabilisation test
Current status:
This is still work in progress - the current version has been slightly improved from the version in the video (I strengthened some of the elastic parts and improved the balancing). The gyro control board is my own design and currently not available yet. I will post an update once it is. The IMU is my design as well, and is available here.
You are welcome to order this design now, but be aware that it's still somewhat "beta". Whatever you do with it is entirely your own risk and responsibility, I unfortunately cannot make any claims towards its usefulness, stability or safety...
I would recommend, before you put this on a flying contraption, consider using a safety string to attach the camera to the plane somehow. GoPro cameras are very robust inside their waterproof case, but not quite so robust without that protection. They don't like crashing into the ground (and trust me, I know - as is probably obvious from the picture of my camera... in all fairness, it did mostly survive...)
Assembly instructions
For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. The bearing at the top is a 16mm outer, 8mm inner diameter ball bearing, available from many places. Hobbyking sells those as well.
I will possibly modify the mounting bracket in the future and also offer one with a smaller bearing... this one is total overkill! :)
The servos that will fit are the MKS DS470 (available e.g. from Hobbyking). They do have a little play, but they are very smooth and by far the fastest servo I've seen in that size and price class. I'm still on the lookout for different servos that might be a bit smoother.
Assembly:
1) Press the servos onto the mounting bracket and the flexible arms of the back cage. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the printed piece onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
Remove the servos again after this step.
2) Mount the 3 servos on the servo mounting frame. Start with the yaw servo (the vertical one in the middle).The yaw servo crown has to face downwards (might be a bit fiddly). Make sure the crown of the yaw servo is aligned with the little stub axle on the opposite side. The two roll/pitch servos have to be inserted so that the crown faces the camera (towards the flat side of the mounting arm).
3) Press the mounting bracket onto the yaw servo crown, and put in the screw to hold it in place. On the opposite side, press in the 16mm/8mm ball bearing.
4) Carefully push the disk-shaped closure knob into the cylinder at the top of the camera back cage. You might need to rotate it a bit to ease it into place
5) Push the flexible arms of the back cage onto the two roll/pitch servos, and fix with screws.
-- Update: Seems the MKS has too much gain for the yaw axis, and tends to oscillate a bit with all that weight swinging around. They are fine for the Pitch/Roll arms. I'm still looking for a small servo with high speed, smoothness and no (or little) play... Suggestions are of course welcome!!
-- The servos are still a very tight fit into the control arms and the bracket. I already made it a bit larger, but still not enough. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the arms onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
by
TheoJansen
The first public evolution of the Animaris Geneticus Parvus, #5. Featuring a fully working Theo Jansen mechanism as used in his work "the Rhinoceros". The mechanism is printed assembled, and will work without further assembly right after birth from the printer.
Also see our new Propeller Propulsion add-on, to have your Strandbeest walk autonomously!
A few tips to consider:
- After birth there might be a little powder left in some joints, or it might not go supersmooth. This will fix itself after the animal has a little bit of practice!
- Some surfaces work better than others. The legs require a little friction, and a flat surface. So for example: A rough table or floor, thin flat carpeting, or a thin rubber sheet.
- The best way to push it is by its nameplate. Do not push down, but forward
Also see our new Propeller Propulsion add-on, to have your Strandbeest walk autonomously!
A few tips to consider:
- After birth there might be a little powder left in some joints, or it might not go supersmooth. This will fix itself after the animal has a little bit of practice!
- Some surfaces work better than others. The legs require a little friction, and a flat surface. So for example: A rough table or floor, thin flat carpeting, or a thin rubber sheet.
- The best way to push it is by its nameplate. Do not push down, but forward
by
jes1111
This is the quick-release clip for the OpenPilot CopterControl and CC3D cases. You also need the bottom part and the top part for the board of your choice. Note that you can order multiple clips to enable easy transfer of a board between different frames. More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case and http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CC3D+Case
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CC3D complete set?
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by
jes1111
This is the bottom part of the OpenPilot CopterControl CC3D case. You also need the top part (CC3DCase upper) and (optionally) the base clip (Case base 1 v1). Note that this case is for the CC3D only. The base clip is common to both CC and CC3D versions.
More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case and http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CC3D+Case
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More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case and http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CC3D+Case
CC3D complete set?
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by
jes1111
This is the top part of the OpenPilot CopterControl CC3D case. You also need the bottom part (CC3D Case lower) and (optionally) the base clip (Case base 1 v1).
Note that this case is for the CC3D only. The base clip is common to both CC and CC3D versions.
More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case and http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CC3D+Case
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Note that this case is for the CC3D only. The base clip is common to both CC and CC3D versions.
More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case and http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CC3D+Case
CC3D complete set?
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by
Pazu
Working centrifugal compressor.
Designed to fit standard Mabuchi 130 motors.
Printed and tested.
Upon receiving the item, you'll need to use a 1.8mm drill bit to drill out the center hole. This is due to limitation of the printing process that may not allow the shaft of the motor to be inserted.
Designed to fit standard Mabuchi 130 motors.
Printed and tested.
Upon receiving the item, you'll need to use a 1.8mm drill bit to drill out the center hole. This is due to limitation of the printing process that may not allow the shaft of the motor to be inserted.
by
susan-parker
Over 100 latches ordered in the last 12 months!
Replacement stainless-steel upgrade / repair latch part for the Panasonic SD253 seed / nut dispenser (see pictures).
Easy to fit with a cross head screwdriver.
1. Remove dispenser from lid (it just pops out).
2. Wash?
3. Remove old latch part by undoing the two cross head screws and lifting out U bracket.
4. Rescue the small spring which keeps the latch engaged.
5. This spring has one end that narrows down slightly. Hold the very end of this with tweezers or needle point pliers and then wrap the spring onto the cross (a tooth pick or a match end is handy for this).
6. Place new latch in position, add bracket and resecure with the two screws.
7. Make bread.
Any help / comments please get in touch.
Replacement stainless-steel upgrade / repair latch part for the Panasonic SD253 seed / nut dispenser (see pictures).
Easy to fit with a cross head screwdriver.
1. Remove dispenser from lid (it just pops out).
2. Wash?
3. Remove old latch part by undoing the two cross head screws and lifting out U bracket.
4. Rescue the small spring which keeps the latch engaged.
5. This spring has one end that narrows down slightly. Hold the very end of this with tweezers or needle point pliers and then wrap the spring onto the cross (a tooth pick or a match end is handy for this).
6. Place new latch in position, add bracket and resecure with the two screws.
7. Make bread.
Any help / comments please get in touch.
by
mkassner
This is the PUPIL eye-tracking headset. It is part of the PUPIL project on code.google.com/p/pupil. This is the second tested public release of the hardware. Revision 012.
(As material we have tested all SLS-nylon versions from shapeways - they call it strong and flexible. We recommend white polished or black.
by
barbecuesteve
This adapter holds your Apple "MagSafe to MagSafe 2 Adapter" snugly and hooks to your power adapter's cord. For that power adapter that is used to serve both old and new Macs!
by
eclg
These replace old plastic cable guides that are commonly missing on old Cannondales. By gluing the posts on the inside of the holes you don't run the risk of ripping the paint from the frame like you do if you just glue on old guides that are missing their posts. My suggestion is to turn the frame upside down and put a generous drop of glue inside each of the holes - then insert the cable guides and allow the glue to dry with the frame upside down so that the glue stays puddled around the cable guide's posts. If you have bits of plastic from the old cable guides rattling around the top tube like my friend did, drip a good puddle of glue into the top tube and shake it around until the bits get stuck in the glue.
by
Oskar_van_Deventer
Hollow Cube is a Rubik's Cube that has been made as hollow as possible. The pieces are held together by dovetail connections. Because the puzzle consists mainly of air, it is very affordable.
Watch the YouTube video
Read on the Shapeways Forum
Read more at the Twisty Puzzle Forum
Please contact Oskar directly if you are interested in obtaining a fully colored, stickered and assembled sample of this puzzle.
Watch the YouTube video
Read on the Shapeways Forum
Read more at the Twisty Puzzle Forum
Please contact Oskar directly if you are interested in obtaining a fully colored, stickered and assembled sample of this puzzle.
by
TomZ
This fully working 12mm 3x3x3 Cube is nearly five times smaller than the original Rubik's Cube - it is far smaller than just a single cubelet of its big brother. It is printed in one piece, without the need for assembly. A thin layer of wax keeps the parts separated during printing, which is then melted away to yield this fully functional Rubik's Cube.
IMPORTANT - READ BEFORE BUYING
Since Shapeways' can not remove all of the wax themselves, you will probably have to do some work to get your print to turn. You should boil some water and put it in a cup along with your cube. Leave it in there for a few moments, and stir to help speed up the wax removal. Then remove from the cup with a teaspoon, and (being careful not to get burns from the water) gently move one or more sides. You may need to put the cube back in to the water to melt more wax and continue this process untill all of the pieces are freed up. You may also need to use a small knife to help separate some pieces. Note that if the wax cools down, the puzzle may become more difficult to move.
Since the heat also softens the puzzle plastic, it is very delicate when warm. You should take extreme caution while removing the excess wax. Neither Shapeways or me can take responsibility if your puzzle breaks during this process. It might therefore be recommendable to order more than one copy of this puzzle.
It might make things a lot easier if you put soap in the water, that might help dissolve the wax. I haven't tested it myself but it sounds promising.
IMPORTANT - READ BEFORE BUYING
Since Shapeways' can not remove all of the wax themselves, you will probably have to do some work to get your print to turn. You should boil some water and put it in a cup along with your cube. Leave it in there for a few moments, and stir to help speed up the wax removal. Then remove from the cup with a teaspoon, and (being careful not to get burns from the water) gently move one or more sides. You may need to put the cube back in to the water to melt more wax and continue this process untill all of the pieces are freed up. You may also need to use a small knife to help separate some pieces. Note that if the wax cools down, the puzzle may become more difficult to move.
Since the heat also softens the puzzle plastic, it is very delicate when warm. You should take extreme caution while removing the excess wax. Neither Shapeways or me can take responsibility if your puzzle breaks during this process. It might therefore be recommendable to order more than one copy of this puzzle.
It might make things a lot easier if you put soap in the water, that might help dissolve the wax. I haven't tested it myself but it sounds promising.
by
EduardWinter
Replacement for PD09-0012
Part Number: BWE-006816
Material: PA2200
approx.weight: 35g (slight weight increase)
Bearing Distance is now 34mm (Swingarm Spacer PD10-0029 not needed anymore)
The BOX Design makes the rear Swingarm stiffer.
Please keep in mind that these parts are PROTOTYPES.
Be careful when using these parts below Temperatures of 10°C.
Part Number: BWE-006816
Material: PA2200
approx.weight: 35g (slight weight increase)
Bearing Distance is now 34mm (Swingarm Spacer PD10-0029 not needed anymore)
The BOX Design makes the rear Swingarm stiffer.
Please keep in mind that these parts are PROTOTYPES.
Be careful when using these parts below Temperatures of 10°C.
by
jes1111
This is the top part of the OpenPilot CopterControl case. You also need the bottom part and (optionally) the base.
More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case
IMPORTANT NOTE: Due to some very slight dimensional differences, this case needs some minor modifications with a knife/file to fit the CC3D. A separate version is available for the CC3D.
More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case
IMPORTANT NOTE: Due to some very slight dimensional differences, this case needs some minor modifications with a knife/file to fit the CC3D. A separate version is available for the CC3D.
by
HansH
All models
A low profile case for the Raspberry Pi with sloped edges. Large open logo so the pcb board is visible and an open bottom frame with LEGO feet. The pcb board is clicked in the bottom part. The USB connector will stick out the front.
Along the side of the GPIO connector there are some holes, so it is easy to cut out, in order to get a flatcable out.
Case consist of 1.4 mm walls which makes it more expensive but is far more solid
It fits my production RPi perfectly. There still can small variations depending on the placement of the components. If you would like to purchase this, please note that if it does not fit, understand that I cannot and won't give a refund. Minor adjustments can be done with an exacto knife if it doesn't fit exactly.
A low profile case for the Raspberry Pi with sloped edges. Large open logo so the pcb board is visible and an open bottom frame with LEGO feet. The pcb board is clicked in the bottom part. The USB connector will stick out the front.
Along the side of the GPIO connector there are some holes, so it is easy to cut out, in order to get a flatcable out.
Case consist of 1.4 mm walls which makes it more expensive but is far more solid
It fits my production RPi perfectly. There still can small variations depending on the placement of the components. If you would like to purchase this, please note that if it does not fit, understand that I cannot and won't give a refund. Minor adjustments can be done with an exacto knife if it doesn't fit exactly.
by
ZeusRage
Cool android hand that can be used as a paper weight or as an epic desktop item.
by
ICU
**Orders made before 9/1/11 may require a small amount of sanding. Message me for details**
This is a "Beefy" version of the propeller mount found on the UMX Sbach and UMX Beast 180 Brushless Motors. (3 pcs so you always have a spare and also to help absorb the startup costs shapeways charges)
This mount has been redesigned to use GWS props & have a larger backing surface for the propeller to rest against. And no additional spacer is needed to give the propeller space away from the cowl. This will help prevent the mount from breaking right behind the propeller. I also redesigned the area that bolts to the motor to give a little "give" in the event of a crash or hard propeller strike.
All that is needed to complete are the screws used with the stock 180 propeller mount and a GWS Propeller. I recommend using a GWS 5030 for the UMX Sbach and a GWS 5043 for the UMX Beast.
This is a "Beefy" version of the propeller mount found on the UMX Sbach and UMX Beast 180 Brushless Motors. (3 pcs so you always have a spare and also to help absorb the startup costs shapeways charges)
This mount has been redesigned to use GWS props & have a larger backing surface for the propeller to rest against. And no additional spacer is needed to give the propeller space away from the cowl. This will help prevent the mount from breaking right behind the propeller. I also redesigned the area that bolts to the motor to give a little "give" in the event of a crash or hard propeller strike.
All that is needed to complete are the screws used with the stock 180 propeller mount and a GWS Propeller. I recommend using a GWS 5030 for the UMX Sbach and a GWS 5043 for the UMX Beast.
by
jes1111
This is the bottom part of the OpenPilot CopterControl case. You also need the top part (Case upper v1) and (optionally) the base (Case base 1 v1). More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case
IMPORTANT NOTE: Due to some very slight dimensional differences, this case needs some minor modifications with a knife/file to fit the CC3D. A separate version is available for the CC3D.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Due to some very slight dimensional differences, this case needs some minor modifications with a knife/file to fit the CC3D. A separate version is available for the CC3D.
by
AnalogueRobot
[Please note: This is the original version of the hood, there is now a 2nd version with cutout, alignment marker and slightly wider opening. Both work fine.] This hood fits to the existing bayonet attachment via a very tight friction fit. On first fitting it may feel you are forcing it, but this is normal and the mount has been tested across 3 different examples. The print maybe a little tighter than usual, if this is the case, cleaning out the bayonet grooves will remedy the situation.
This hood will also work on the Zeiss 50/2 Planar, tho won't offer as much shading as it's dedicated hood.
This is a compact hood for the Voigtlander 35mm f1.4 Nokton Classic lens, as a replacement for the £48+ one that Voigtlander offers. It's more compact and has been calculated to offer greater shading.
Because the Voigtlander 40mm f1.4 Nokton Classic is almost the same lens, but will a narrower FOV, this hood will also work for this lens too.
It's rectangular cutout is 10% wider than the lens' field of view for full frame, has been tested on a full frame camera without vignetting. On a crop body such as the M8 or NEX ranges, there should be no problem at all.
by
simensays
Lever kit (#1) for the DJI Phantom Transmitter, including Steering Rod and 4 lever heads (the Wheel, the Scoop, the Spoon & the Shorty). Please note that you need to provide your own screw, preferably 2mm x 12mm long.
DJI broke the news at this years NAB, that the stock white DJI Phantom Transmitter, has a hidden channel on the back, that controls the sought after X1 manual tilt control for your gimbal or camera mount. They are releasing a gimbal in June, and with this gimbal, it is said that you will receive a small lever, that you mount into your stock transmitter.
The Shorty lever head, is approximately the same size as the ones DJI used on the transmitters on NAB. A quick search on YouTube for DJI and NAB 2013, show the gimbal and they explain the hidden 7th Channel.
The other two lever heads are upgraded levers, designed to suit different grips on the transmitter, and personal preferences on how to best operate your tilt control.
You need to open the transmitter (very easy) with the four screws on the back. Slip the steering rod inside the top bottom hole (X1). Then you put on the desired lever head, and fix with a 2mm scrw (10-15 mm length). Gently fit the steering rod into the X1 pot, and rotete it to the end point in a counterc clockwise direction. Note which way the cross in center of the pot is angels, for when you mount the lever head, so it will have a position/range that works best for you. When attaching the back lid, postion the lever head in the same position you noted earlier, and scrw together. Note, the pot is made of soft plastic, and can easily be damaged. If you want to reposition your level head, remove the back lid first, then rotate the lever and reattach it. The design of the steering rod, ensures a snug fit when transmitter is screw back together, with downward pressure of the steering rod, so the pot will be safe.
Some drilling might be needed to fit the scrw. I use a 2mm x 12mm scrw. also it can be wise to screw in the scrw on both rod & head individually before assembling, to tap out the holes, making it easier to assemble.
After installing the lever assembly, you can set the gains for the X1 Manual, in the Naza Assistant. Default value is 100%. By lowering this value, the tilt movement is slower, and you get a smoother tilt feel.
You do need a gimbal or camera mount with a tilt axis to achieve this, but I guess you know that.
DJI Phantom Lever Kit (for 7th channel) from simensays on Vimeo.
DJI broke the news at this years NAB, that the stock white DJI Phantom Transmitter, has a hidden channel on the back, that controls the sought after X1 manual tilt control for your gimbal or camera mount. They are releasing a gimbal in June, and with this gimbal, it is said that you will receive a small lever, that you mount into your stock transmitter.
The Shorty lever head, is approximately the same size as the ones DJI used on the transmitters on NAB. A quick search on YouTube for DJI and NAB 2013, show the gimbal and they explain the hidden 7th Channel.
The other two lever heads are upgraded levers, designed to suit different grips on the transmitter, and personal preferences on how to best operate your tilt control.
You need to open the transmitter (very easy) with the four screws on the back. Slip the steering rod inside the top bottom hole (X1). Then you put on the desired lever head, and fix with a 2mm scrw (10-15 mm length). Gently fit the steering rod into the X1 pot, and rotete it to the end point in a counterc clockwise direction. Note which way the cross in center of the pot is angels, for when you mount the lever head, so it will have a position/range that works best for you. When attaching the back lid, postion the lever head in the same position you noted earlier, and scrw together. Note, the pot is made of soft plastic, and can easily be damaged. If you want to reposition your level head, remove the back lid first, then rotate the lever and reattach it. The design of the steering rod, ensures a snug fit when transmitter is screw back together, with downward pressure of the steering rod, so the pot will be safe.
Some drilling might be needed to fit the scrw. I use a 2mm x 12mm scrw. also it can be wise to screw in the scrw on both rod & head individually before assembling, to tap out the holes, making it easier to assemble.
After installing the lever assembly, you can set the gains for the X1 Manual, in the Naza Assistant. Default value is 100%. By lowering this value, the tilt movement is slower, and you get a smoother tilt feel.
You do need a gimbal or camera mount with a tilt axis to achieve this, but I guess you know that.
by
ronen
The intrauterine device (IUD) is the world's most widely used method of reversible birth control for women. But as their production and common materials cost only a few cents, they are sold for a staggering 400$- 850$. Unreachable for many women, especially young ones.
The Bearina IUD is a political product. It demonstrates the disruptive potential of 3D printed Open Designs to give free and global access to essential products, and circumvent industries (such as the Pharma industry) that aggressively defend their intellectual property to control the price and availability of their products. As an Open Design, the Bearina IUD promotes collaborative development and free sharing of knowledge. Further developed by a networked community or in partnership with a forward looking pharma company, It is always available for experimenting with and improving, and could evolve into a functional IUD.
The Bearina, with its bear head image, is visually friendly, to appeal, so to speak, to younger women. It is a conceptual product, a design fiction, and absolutely should not be used as an IUD. Nevertheless, it is designed according to dimensions, materials and shapes commonly found in IUDs.
You are welcome to download the production file of the Bearina IUD (.stl- Creative commons nc-at-sa 3.0 lisence) from my website (www.ronen-kadushin.com). It is free and ready for 3D printing. But if you prefer, you can also download it, or even order some Bearinas from Shapeways.com. They are only 1.25€ each.
In copper- containing IUDs, metal ions dissolving from the device create a spermicidal action. To do precisely that, a 1€ cent coin (copper covered steel) easily snaps in the plastic 3D printed part. An additional piece of nylon string is tied to the bottom part to complete the assembly of the Bearina IUD.
Sources and further reading:
http://www.wired.com/magazine/2011/07/ff_iud/?pid=6100&viewall=true
http://www.dr-miller.com/IUDe.html
http://iud-divas.livejournal.com/
http://www.fleur-de-coin.com/eurocoins/coins.asp
Disclaimer
The Bearina is a conceptual research object, and absolutely should not be used as an IUD or for any internal use.
You expressly agree to hold the designer, Ronen Kadushin, harmless for any property damage, personal injury and/or death, or any other loss or damage that may result from your use of the information or designs provided, specifically the Bearina IUD concept design.
The use of Open Design designs should be based on your own due diligence and you agree that Ronen Kadushin is not liable for any success or failure of your actions you take to modify, produce, assemble or repair your products.
The user further agrees that use of this design and all products or content contained herein are at your own risk and there is no warranty expressly made herein.
The Bearina IUD is a political product. It demonstrates the disruptive potential of 3D printed Open Designs to give free and global access to essential products, and circumvent industries (such as the Pharma industry) that aggressively defend their intellectual property to control the price and availability of their products. As an Open Design, the Bearina IUD promotes collaborative development and free sharing of knowledge. Further developed by a networked community or in partnership with a forward looking pharma company, It is always available for experimenting with and improving, and could evolve into a functional IUD.
The Bearina, with its bear head image, is visually friendly, to appeal, so to speak, to younger women. It is a conceptual product, a design fiction, and absolutely should not be used as an IUD. Nevertheless, it is designed according to dimensions, materials and shapes commonly found in IUDs.
You are welcome to download the production file of the Bearina IUD (.stl- Creative commons nc-at-sa 3.0 lisence) from my website (www.ronen-kadushin.com). It is free and ready for 3D printing. But if you prefer, you can also download it, or even order some Bearinas from Shapeways.com. They are only 1.25€ each.
In copper- containing IUDs, metal ions dissolving from the device create a spermicidal action. To do precisely that, a 1€ cent coin (copper covered steel) easily snaps in the plastic 3D printed part. An additional piece of nylon string is tied to the bottom part to complete the assembly of the Bearina IUD.
Sources and further reading:
http://www.wired.com/magazine/2011/07/ff_iud/?pid=6100&viewall=true
http://www.dr-miller.com/IUDe.html
http://iud-divas.livejournal.com/
http://www.fleur-de-coin.com/eurocoins/coins.asp
Disclaimer
The Bearina is a conceptual research object, and absolutely should not be used as an IUD or for any internal use.
You expressly agree to hold the designer, Ronen Kadushin, harmless for any property damage, personal injury and/or death, or any other loss or damage that may result from your use of the information or designs provided, specifically the Bearina IUD concept design.
The use of Open Design designs should be based on your own due diligence and you agree that Ronen Kadushin is not liable for any success or failure of your actions you take to modify, produce, assemble or repair your products.
The user further agrees that use of this design and all products or content contained herein are at your own risk and there is no warranty expressly made herein.
by
Innovo
The Mini Crowbar is both a decorative as well as practical keychain accessory (length of a typical key). It can be used for screwing, puncturing or as a keychain hanging hook.
Available in several finishes and materials (Stainless Steel, Antique Bronze Matte, Antique Bronze Glossy, Gold Plated Matte, Gold Plated Glossy). Please choose from the right.
Warning: This crowbar is size small, about 30% smaller than the medium one.
by
lorddarthvik
! Important Material Notice ! : Recently some of you have tried to buy this model in WSF, Detail and other materials, but the model got rejected. I am very sorry about this, as this model used to be printable in those materials when I first offered it for buying, but since then the checking software of Shapeways got updated and rejects the model for having thin walls. Currently due to the strict Shapeways software, this model is only Printable in Frosted Ultra Detail material. This is confirmed as I have one on my desk made of Frosted Ultra Detail, with a rotating turbine.
This is a little thingy for your keychain. It is in the shape of a jet engine, a great gift for aircraft fans! The turbine inside is designed to rotate.
This is a little thingy for your keychain. It is in the shape of a jet engine, a great gift for aircraft fans! The turbine inside is designed to rotate.
by
Tofty
This is the second and much improved version of my single-piece prybar and nail lifting tool with a range of metric hex drivers (5.5, 6, 7 and 8mm), a bottle opener, a 1/4" hex bit holder and two 1/4" hex driver points.
The centre cut-out will hold and store a standard PH2 or PZ2 25mm long quarter inch hex bit (not included).
Four o-rings are required to complete the assembly (10mm ID, 2.5mm diameter, not included)
This model is designed to be printed in Stainless Steel or one of it's variants.
I've been carrying this prybar around with my keys for a while now and it's functionality is just as i'd hoped with it not having let me down so far.
The prybar can be secured to a keychain or lanyard with a No.2 McGizmo clip or similar 25mm gate clip through the 5.5mm hex hole.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
The centre cut-out will hold and store a standard PH2 or PZ2 25mm long quarter inch hex bit (not included).
Four o-rings are required to complete the assembly (10mm ID, 2.5mm diameter, not included)
This model is designed to be printed in Stainless Steel or one of it's variants.
I've been carrying this prybar around with my keys for a while now and it's functionality is just as i'd hoped with it not having let me down so far.
The prybar can be secured to a keychain or lanyard with a No.2 McGizmo clip or similar 25mm gate clip through the 5.5mm hex hole.
There are some more photos of this object and other examples of my work, both 3D printed and otherwise, on my 'Tofty' facebook page.
by
macnutz
Bugaboo Locking Disk Right Side (Non Brake Lever Side) This model is solid for maximum strength when used with plastics. It costs $50 in stainless steel so I had a hollowed out version made for the stainless steel option. I find a lot of Bugaboo's with hollowed plastic disks so I will now offer that option as well. Check out my hollowed out file for a $10 WSF of $12 BSF option
by
TomZ
The 4x5x6 Cuboid is the next step up from my 3x4x5. This puzzle was made at the request of Sigurd Wedel. Just like the 3x4x5 this one shapeshifts as 90 degree turns are possible on the 4x6 faces.
In the design I've used a mechanism slightly different from that of my 3x4x5 and slightly more like a V-Cube. The result is a puzzle that rotates very smoothly, even better than the 3x4x5. This puzzle is truly very complex, having more than 40 different mechanical parts.
Read more about this puzzle on twistypuzzles.com
Buyer information & Claim your free set of stickers
This puzzle comes as a DIY kit. You will need to assemble the puzzle yourself and also provide your own screws (6 M3 screws of 10-15mm, suitable springs and small washers recommended). A free set of printed stickers is included, please send me an email after buying to claim your free stickers (I ship them separately, they're not included in your order from Shapeways). You can also purchase a fully assembled and stickered puzzle from me on request. Please contact me directly for this service.
by
Sapient8
This is an altered version of the gearbox model available from the ShapwaysMechanical page.
The parts have been perforated in some spots to be slightly more streamlined and also a little cheaper to produce too.
No assembly required, though the middle set of gears must be snapped down into position in order to engage the surrounding gears. I assume this was built into the design to keep larger gaps during the printing process.
The parts have been perforated in some spots to be slightly more streamlined and also a little cheaper to produce too.
No assembly required, though the middle set of gears must be snapped down into position in order to engage the surrounding gears. I assume this was built into the design to keep larger gaps during the printing process.
by
chamoo232
DIY kit of Portal 2's iconic Turret. The kit need some assembly and is not in color. I designed it in pieces si it would be much easier to paint. Since it's in pieces it require glue and a pointy tool to clean the compacted powder from the antenna and back leg hole is also suggested. Once assembled it stand about 15 cm tall.
by
macnutz
Bugaboo Locking Disk Left Side (Brake Lever Side) This model is solid for maximum strength when used with plastics. It costs $50 in stainless steel so I had a hollowed out version made for the stainless steel option. I find a lot of Bugaboo's with hollowed plastic disks so I will now offer that option as well. Check out my hollowed out file for a $10 WSF of $12 BSF option
