This fully working 12mm 3x3x3 Cube is nearly five times smaller than the original Rubik's Cube - it is far smaller than just a single cubelet of its big brother. It is printed in one piece, without the need for assembly. A thin layer of wax keeps the parts separated during printing, which is then melted away to yield this fully functional Rubik's Cube.

IMPORTANT - READ BEFORE BUYING
Since Shapeways' can not remove all of the wax themselves, you will probably have to do some work to get your print to turn. You should boil some water and put it in a cup along with your cube. Leave it in there for a few moments, and stir to help speed up the wax removal. Then remove from the cup with a teaspoon, and (being careful not to get burns from the water) gently move one or more sides. You may need to put the cube back in to the water to melt more wax and continue this process untill all of the pieces are freed up. You may also need to use a small knife to help separate some pieces. Note that if the wax cools down, the puzzle may become more difficult to move.
Since the heat also softens the puzzle plastic, it is very delicate when warm. You should take extreme caution while removing the excess wax. Neither Shapeways or me can take responsibility if your puzzle breaks during this process. It might therefore be recommendable to order more than one copy of this puzzle.
It might make things a lot easier if you put soap in the water, that might help dissolve the wax. I haven't tested it myself but it sounds promising.

All models
A low profile case for the Raspberry Pi with sloped edges. Large open logo so the pcb board is visible and an open bottom frame with LEGO feet. The pcb board is clicked in the bottom part. The USB connector will stick out the front.
Along the side of the GPIO connector there are some holes, so it is easy to cut out, in order to get a flatcable out.
Case consist of 1.4 mm walls which makes it more expensive but is far more solid
It fits my production RPi perfectly. There still can small variations depending on the placement of the components. If you would like to purchase this, please note that if it does not fit, understand that I cannot and won't give a refund. Minor adjustments can be done with an exacto knife if it doesn't fit exactly.

**Orders made before 9/1/11 may require a small amount of sanding.  Message me for details**

This is a "Beefy" version of the propeller mount found on the UMX Sbach and UMX Beast 180 Brushless Motors.  (3 pcs so you always have a spare and also to help absorb the startup costs shapeways charges)

This mount has been redesigned to use GWS props & have a larger backing surface for the propeller to rest against.  And no additional spacer is needed to give the propeller space away from the cowl.  This will help prevent the mount from breaking right behind the propeller.  I also redesigned the area that bolts to the motor to give a little "give" in the event of a crash or hard propeller strike.


All that is needed to complete are the screws used with the stock 180 propeller mount and a GWS Propeller.  I recommend using a GWS 5030 for the UMX Sbach and a GWS 5043 for the UMX Beast. 

Lever kit (#1) for the DJI Phantom Transmitter, including Steering Rod and 4 lever heads (the Wheel, the Scoop, the Spoon & the Shorty). Please note that you need to provide your own screw, preferably 2mm x 12mm long.

DJI Phantom Lever Kit (for 7th channel) from simensays on Vimeo.

DJI broke the news at this years NAB, that the stock white DJI Phantom Transmitter, has a hidden channel on the back, that controls the sought after X1 manual tilt control for your gimbal or camera mount. They are releasing a gimbal in June, and with this gimbal, it is said that you will receive a small lever, that you mount into your stock transmitter.

The Shorty lever head, is approximately the same size as the ones DJI used on the transmitters on NAB. A quick search on YouTube for DJI and NAB 2013, show the gimbal and they explain the hidden 7th Channel.

The other two lever heads are upgraded levers, designed to suit different grips on the transmitter, and personal preferences on how to best operate your tilt control.

You need to open the transmitter (very easy) with the four screws on the back. Slip the steering rod inside the top bottom hole (X1). Then you put on the desired lever head, and fix with a 2mm scrw (10-15 mm length). Gently fit the steering rod into the X1 pot, and rotete it to the end point in a counterc clockwise direction. Note which way the cross in center of the pot is angels, for when you mount the lever head, so it will have a position/range that works best for you. When attaching the back lid, postion the lever head in the same position you noted earlier, and scrw together. Note, the pot is made of soft plastic, and can easily be damaged. If you want to reposition your level head, remove the back lid first, then rotate the lever and reattach it. The design of the steering rod, ensures a snug fit when transmitter is screw back together, with downward pressure of the steering rod, so the pot will be safe.

Some drilling might be needed to fit the scrw. I use a 2mm x 12mm scrw. also it can be wise to screw in the scrw on both rod & head individually before assembling, to tap out the holes, making it easier to assemble.

After installing the lever assembly, you can set the gains for the X1 Manual, in the Naza Assistant. Default value is 100%. By lowering this value, the tilt movement is slower, and you get a smoother tilt feel.

You do need a gimbal or camera mount with a tilt axis to achieve this, but I guess you know that.