by
jes1111
This is the top part of the OpenPilot CopterControl case. You also need the bottom part and (optionally) the base.
More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case
IMPORTANT NOTE: Due to some very slight dimensional differences, this case needs some minor modifications with a knife/file to fit the CC3D. A separate version is available for the CC3D.
More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case
IMPORTANT NOTE: Due to some very slight dimensional differences, this case needs some minor modifications with a knife/file to fit the CC3D. A separate version is available for the CC3D.
by
ZeusRage
Cool android hand that can be used as a paper weight or as an epic desktop item.
by
jes1111
This is the bottom part of the OpenPilot CopterControl case. You also need the top part (Case upper v1) and (optionally) the base (Case base 1 v1). More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case
IMPORTANT NOTE: Due to some very slight dimensional differences, this case needs some minor modifications with a knife/file to fit the CC3D. A separate version is available for the CC3D.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Due to some very slight dimensional differences, this case needs some minor modifications with a knife/file to fit the CC3D. A separate version is available for the CC3D.
by
AnalogueRobot
[Please note: This is the original version of the hood, there is now a 2nd version with cutout, alignment marker and slightly wider opening. Both work fine.] This hood fits to the existing bayonet attachment via a very tight friction fit. On first fitting it may feel you are forcing it, but this is normal and the mount has been tested across 3 different examples. The print maybe a little tighter than usual, if this is the case, cleaning out the bayonet grooves will remedy the situation.
This hood will also work on the Zeiss 50/2 Planar, tho won't offer as much shading as it's dedicated hood.
This is a compact hood for the Voigtlander 35mm f1.4 Nokton Classic lens, as a replacement for the £48+ one that Voigtlander offers. It's more compact and has been calculated to offer greater shading.
Because the Voigtlander 40mm f1.4 Nokton Classic is almost the same lens, but will a narrower FOV, this hood will also work for this lens too.
It's rectangular cutout is 10% wider than the lens' field of view for full frame, has been tested on a full frame camera without vignetting. On a crop body such as the M8 or NEX ranges, there should be no problem at all.
by
simensays
Lever kit (#1) for the DJI Phantom Transmitter, including Steering Rod and 4 lever heads (the Wheel, the Scoop, the Spoon & the Shorty).
DJI broke the news at this years NAB, that the stock white DJI Phantom Transmitter, has a hidden channel on the back, that controls the sought after X1 manual tilt control for your gimbal or camera mount. They are releasing a gimbal in June, and with this gimbal, it is said that you will receive a small lever, that you mount into your stock transmitter.
The Shorty lever head, is approximately the same size as the ones DJI used on the transmitters on NAB. A quick search on YouTube for DJI and NAB 2013, show the gimbal and they explain the hidden 7th Channel.
The other two lever heads are upgraded levers, designed to suit different grips on the transmitter, and personal preferences on how to best operate your tilt control.
You need to open the transmitter (very easy) with the four screws on the back. Slip the steering rod inside the top bottom hole (X1). Then you put on the desired lever head, and fix with a 2mm scrw (10-15 mm length). Gently fit the steering rod into the X1 pot, and rotete it to the end point in a counterc clockwise direction. Note which way the cross in center of the pot is angels, for when you mount the lever head, so it will have a position/range that works best for you. When attaching the back lid, postion the lever head in the same position you noted earlier, and scrw together. Note, the pot is made of soft plastic, and can easily be damaged. If you want to reposition your level head, remove the back lid first, then rotate the lever and reattach it. The design of the steering rod, ensures a snug fit when transmitter is screw back together, with downward pressure of the steering rod, so the pot will be safe.
Some drilling might be needed to fit the scrw. I use a 2mm x 12mm scrw. also it can be wise to screw in the scrw on both rod & head individually before assembling, to tap out the holes, making it easier to assemble.
After installing the lever assembly, you can set the gains for the X1 Manual, in the Naza Assistant. Default value is 100%. By lowering this value, the tilt movement is slower, and you get a smoother tilt feel.
You do need a gimbal or camera mount with a tilt axis to achieve this, but I guess you know that.
DJI Phantom Lever Kit (for 7th channel) from simensays on Vimeo.
DJI broke the news at this years NAB, that the stock white DJI Phantom Transmitter, has a hidden channel on the back, that controls the sought after X1 manual tilt control for your gimbal or camera mount. They are releasing a gimbal in June, and with this gimbal, it is said that you will receive a small lever, that you mount into your stock transmitter.
The Shorty lever head, is approximately the same size as the ones DJI used on the transmitters on NAB. A quick search on YouTube for DJI and NAB 2013, show the gimbal and they explain the hidden 7th Channel.
The other two lever heads are upgraded levers, designed to suit different grips on the transmitter, and personal preferences on how to best operate your tilt control.
You need to open the transmitter (very easy) with the four screws on the back. Slip the steering rod inside the top bottom hole (X1). Then you put on the desired lever head, and fix with a 2mm scrw (10-15 mm length). Gently fit the steering rod into the X1 pot, and rotete it to the end point in a counterc clockwise direction. Note which way the cross in center of the pot is angels, for when you mount the lever head, so it will have a position/range that works best for you. When attaching the back lid, postion the lever head in the same position you noted earlier, and scrw together. Note, the pot is made of soft plastic, and can easily be damaged. If you want to reposition your level head, remove the back lid first, then rotate the lever and reattach it. The design of the steering rod, ensures a snug fit when transmitter is screw back together, with downward pressure of the steering rod, so the pot will be safe.
Some drilling might be needed to fit the scrw. I use a 2mm x 12mm scrw. also it can be wise to screw in the scrw on both rod & head individually before assembling, to tap out the holes, making it easier to assemble.
After installing the lever assembly, you can set the gains for the X1 Manual, in the Naza Assistant. Default value is 100%. By lowering this value, the tilt movement is slower, and you get a smoother tilt feel.
You do need a gimbal or camera mount with a tilt axis to achieve this, but I guess you know that.
by
lorddarthvik
! Important Material Notice ! : Recently some of you have tried to buy this model in WSF, Detail and other materials, but the model got rejected. I am very sorry about this, as this model used to be printable in those materials when I first offered it for buying, but since then the checking software of Shapeways got updated and rejects the model for having thin walls. Currently due to the strict Shapeways software, this model is only Printable in Frosted Ultra Detail material. This is confirmed as I have one on my desk made of Frosted Ultra Detail, with a rotating turbine.
This is a little thingy for your keychain. It is in the shape of a jet engine, a great gift for aircraft fans! The turbine inside is designed to rotate.
This is a little thingy for your keychain. It is in the shape of a jet engine, a great gift for aircraft fans! The turbine inside is designed to rotate.
by
macnutz
Bugaboo Locking Disk Right Side (Non Brake Lever Side) This model is solid for maximum strength when used with plastics. It costs $50 in stainless steel so I had a hollowed out version made for the stainless steel option. I find a lot of Bugaboo's with hollowed plastic disks so I will now offer that option as well. Check out my hollowed out file for a $10 WSF of $12 BSF option
by
TomZ
The 4x5x6 Cuboid is the next step up from my 3x4x5. This puzzle was made at the request of Sigurd Wedel. Just like the 3x4x5 this one shapeshifts as 90 degree turns are possible on the 4x6 faces.
In the design I've used a mechanism slightly different from that of my 3x4x5 and slightly more like a V-Cube. The result is a puzzle that rotates very smoothly, even better than the 3x4x5. This puzzle is truly very complex, having more than 40 different mechanical parts.
Read more about this puzzle on twistypuzzles.com
Buyer information & Claim your free set of stickers
This puzzle comes as a DIY kit. You will need to assemble the puzzle yourself and also provide your own screws (6 M3 screws of 10-15mm, suitable springs and small washers recommended). A free set of printed stickers is included, please send me an email after buying to claim your free stickers (I ship them separately, they're not included in your order from Shapeways). You can also purchase a fully assembled and stickered puzzle from me on request. Please contact me directly for this service.
by
Sapient8
This is an altered version of the gearbox model available from the ShapwaysMechanical page.
The parts have been perforated in some spots to be slightly more streamlined and also a little cheaper to produce too.
No assembly required, though the middle set of gears must be snapped down into position in order to engage the surrounding gears. I assume this was built into the design to keep larger gaps during the printing process.
The parts have been perforated in some spots to be slightly more streamlined and also a little cheaper to produce too.
No assembly required, though the middle set of gears must be snapped down into position in order to engage the surrounding gears. I assume this was built into the design to keep larger gaps during the printing process.
by
macnutz
Bugaboo Locking Disk Left Side (Brake Lever Side) This model is solid for maximum strength when used with plastics. It costs $50 in stainless steel so I had a hollowed out version made for the stainless steel option. I find a lot of Bugaboo's with hollowed plastic disks so I will now offer that option as well. Check out my hollowed out file for a $10 WSF of $12 BSF option
by
IHeartEngineering
This ia a modular case for the Arduino Microcontroller. It has been designed to fit 6 across in a 1U Rack with a little room to spare. M3 Screws are suggested and not included. The holes have not been drilled or tapped, so you can use #4-40 screws as well.
by
K&T
A compact 90 degree elbow mount compatible with other GoPro Accessories. This mount allows you to attach the GoPro Camera very tight to a vertical surface.
by
inthompx
These little bits are the main links in an N64 joystick. They are also the parts that wear out and cause your joystick to go floppy. Why try to find a good controller at some re-sale shop when you can repair it yourself for half the price.
by
IHeartEngineering
The part allows you to mount the Parallax Ping))) sensor on the Hitec HS-325HB Servo. It has been optimized for Shapeways printing with the Grey Robust material.
The activity light and connector pin outs are visible.
This part will require drilling and fasteners. Two M3x5mm and two M2x6mm screws are suggested. If you don''t have the necessary taps you can use nuts.
YouTube assembly Video is available here. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5oXFVhrQr8
The activity light and connector pin outs are visible.
This part will require drilling and fasteners. Two M3x5mm and two M2x6mm screws are suggested. If you don''t have the necessary taps you can use nuts.
YouTube assembly Video is available here. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5oXFVhrQr8
by
jasolo
Warning: this is an old but functional version. Check the newer version at:
http://www.shapeways.com/model/146656/universal_ring_dial_2.html
This Universal Equinoctial Ring Dial is a portable and self-orientating sundial. You can see how a similar dial works: http://www.sunwatchmaker.com/instructions.php .
You''ll get in position the meridian ring, the equatorial ring and the central bar. The eyelet must be inserted through the "jasolo fecit" part of the meridian ring. The slider is entered through the slit of the central bar and then it is turned with a little force.
For finishing, dip the model a couple of hours in cold tea (hot or warm tea will deform the model). Later, paint with black ink the marks and once dried, remove the ink with a wet tissue (ink will remain on the marks).
http://www.shapeways.com/model/146656/universal_ring_dial_2.html
This Universal Equinoctial Ring Dial is a portable and self-orientating sundial. You can see how a similar dial works: http://www.sunwatchmaker.com/instructions.php .
You''ll get in position the meridian ring, the equatorial ring and the central bar. The eyelet must be inserted through the "jasolo fecit" part of the meridian ring. The slider is entered through the slit of the central bar and then it is turned with a little force.
For finishing, dip the model a couple of hours in cold tea (hot or warm tea will deform the model). Later, paint with black ink the marks and once dried, remove the ink with a wet tissue (ink will remain on the marks).
by
simensays
DJI Phantom Landing Gear Kit, includes the Leg Mounts, Compass Mount and 4 Leg Ends.
These mounts fit directly to your Phantom, using the stock screws, and replace your stock landing gear. You provide your own 6mm tubing (preferably carbon fibre or aluminium), cut to the desired length, to give you the height you want, in order to allow for dampening set ups/gimbals/bigger cameras and so on. I have found 5" tube to be an ideal length for my set up, with gimbal and GoPro.
Please note, that the tubing is not included in the listing, they are to show what the assembled kit looks like on the leg extensions. The kit includes 4 Leg Mounts, 1 Compass Mount and 4 Leg Ends.
These are a beefed up version of the previous Leg Mounts I made, and use in the video, showing how I made the set up on my Phantom.
Updated, so tubing can be pushed into the holes (which are slightly cones), and secured with a 3mm fixing screw (not included). The mounts are directional, like your props. see pictures above for reference or check out this video of how I assembled mine http://vimeo.com/simensays/phantom
This is a simple DIY mod that replaces the stock landing gear, allowing you to easily make your Phantom taller, more stable, save weight (depending on how long you want your legs and what type of tubing you use) and a better overall look and stance. Only basic tools are needed. I am setting up a blog on my website, where I will post info, videos etc on other mods I have done to my quad, including how to make the leg extensions. www.simensays.com
Beware to mount your Compass correctly, to maintain optimal flight characteristics on your Phantom. It should be mounted perpendicular to the body, in a vertical position. The included compass Mounts makes this very easy when using these legs. I use velcro on to fasten my compass.
These mounts fit directly to your Phantom, using the stock screws, and replace your stock landing gear. You provide your own 6mm tubing (preferably carbon fibre or aluminium), cut to the desired length, to give you the height you want, in order to allow for dampening set ups/gimbals/bigger cameras and so on. I have found 5" tube to be an ideal length for my set up, with gimbal and GoPro.
Please note, that the tubing is not included in the listing, they are to show what the assembled kit looks like on the leg extensions. The kit includes 4 Leg Mounts, 1 Compass Mount and 4 Leg Ends.
These are a beefed up version of the previous Leg Mounts I made, and use in the video, showing how I made the set up on my Phantom.
Updated, so tubing can be pushed into the holes (which are slightly cones), and secured with a 3mm fixing screw (not included). The mounts are directional, like your props. see pictures above for reference or check out this video of how I assembled mine http://vimeo.com/simensays/phantom
This is a simple DIY mod that replaces the stock landing gear, allowing you to easily make your Phantom taller, more stable, save weight (depending on how long you want your legs and what type of tubing you use) and a better overall look and stance. Only basic tools are needed. I am setting up a blog on my website, where I will post info, videos etc on other mods I have done to my quad, including how to make the leg extensions. www.simensays.com
Beware to mount your Compass correctly, to maintain optimal flight characteristics on your Phantom. It should be mounted perpendicular to the body, in a vertical position. The included compass Mounts makes this very easy when using these legs. I use velcro on to fasten my compass.
by
TomZ
This is the Multidodecahedron. A puzzle that has all the parts from the Megaminx, Pyraminx Crystal, Starminx, Master Pentultimate and Pentultimate and requires you to solve them simultaneously. This puzzle was initially suggested by Carl Hoff, who coined the name Multidodecahedron.
About ordering
To purchase a Multidodecahedron DIY kit, you should purchase this model and then must send me an email with your order number so I can give the necessary instructions to Shapeways. This kit comes with free stickers so please also include your mailing address so I can send them to you (note: I am currently not offering super stickers).This puzzle comes as a kit which you will need to assemble yourself. You will need to provide M3 screws and optional springs and or washers. You can also contact me directly to purchase a fully assembled and stickered copy of this puzzle.
by
K&T
This mount allows you to attach a GoPro camera to the skid of a model helicopter. It has been designed for an Align T-Rex 600 Pro, but in general it should fit any skid tube with a diameter of 9mm. The mount is engineered to allow the use of standard GoPro mounting hardware and accessories. Please keep in mind that since this is a fixed mount if you have vibrations in the heli they will translate into vibrations on the image.
The mount should be able to withstand basic acrobatic manoeuvres, but as you probably understand, I will not take responsibility for any loss... If you're looking for more robust mount, please checkout my 9mm Heavy Duty Camera Rig, found here
Also Check these out:
by
simensays
Simensays Foldable Landing Gear Kit for the DJI Phantom. A smart, modular design that can be folded up in seconds without the need for any tools, any length for the leg extensions (height of the Phantom) for the gimbal of choose or any additional fear you might be mounting.
Easy to assemble and light weight (the parts in the kit weighs 33 grams), yet strong and very stable. Check out this assembly video for how to put it all together. This kit includes the white parts you see in the pictures, and you provide the carbon fibre tubing yourself (list & links below). I recommend making a small 2.5mm hole on each side of the battery trey, as seen in the video, to mount the 3rd screw, that secures a strong mount for the landing gear. Tap out the hole, using a 3mm screw before mounting it all. I also used a M3 lock nut on the inside for optimal strength.
2x M4 Wing Nut
9x M3 Screws, for fixing legs etc
A small bit of Velcro to secure compass to mount
1 Q-tip for antenna arm
6mm Carbon Fibre Tube (for skids).
12mm Carbon Fibre Tube (for leg extensions)
Easy to assemble and light weight (the parts in the kit weighs 33 grams), yet strong and very stable. Check out this assembly video for how to put it all together. This kit includes the white parts you see in the pictures, and you provide the carbon fibre tubing yourself (list & links below). I recommend making a small 2.5mm hole on each side of the battery trey, as seen in the video, to mount the 3rd screw, that secures a strong mount for the landing gear. Tap out the hole, using a 3mm screw before mounting it all. I also used a M3 lock nut on the inside for optimal strength.
Parts needed
2x M4 Screws, length 35-40mm Hexagonal Head Screw2x M4 Wing Nut
9x M3 Screws, for fixing legs etc
A small bit of Velcro to secure compass to mount
1 Q-tip for antenna arm
Carbon Tubes
Most finer hobby shops have carbon fibre tube in these dimensions. I ordered the carbon fibre tubing from eBay (links below):6mm Carbon Fibre Tube (for skids).
12mm Carbon Fibre Tube (for leg extensions)
Materials
I recommend White Strong & Flexible Polished. To make the parts stay clean and a fresh white, I recommend spray them with a coat of white paint. I used cheap automotive spray can, and it looks great.Videos of more mods to my Phantom
Check out my website www.simensays.com for more pics & videos of mods I have made to my Phantom.Disclaimer
This is a DIY kit, so some minor adjustments might be needed.
by
madox
This is a working demonstration of a mechanical iris diaphragm.
WARNING :- Please note the tolerances are a bit tight and depending on print orientation it may require a bit of cleaning.
Will post photos and videos later.
Early Video :- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLSfJjS7QUE
Better but short video :-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXf9ck0LAYo
WARNING :- Please note the tolerances are a bit tight and depending on print orientation it may require a bit of cleaning.
Will post photos and videos later.
Early Video :- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLSfJjS7QUE
Better but short video :-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXf9ck0LAYo
by
Maundy
Please note that the QR Code design has improved greatly since the taking of the above photos and looks a lot better, the QR Code is now Embossed not Engraved and is printed in the 'White Detail' material. New photos will be uploaded soon.
So what is the TriStand? The TriStand iPhone case is a stylish, rugged, ergonomic and most importantly practical snap on 3D Printed protective case for your iPhone with flip out integrated stands; these can be used in different combinations to produce very geometrically stable stands to stand the iPhone in 1 of 3 orientations, a portrait orientation and 1 of 2 angles on both of the landscape orientations, one is great for typing, and the other is great for watching videos. The flip out stands fold flush to the case and 'snap' into place when not in use to stop the stands from opening by themselves. All this while keeping the thickness of the case at only 2.25mm (and 1.5mm at the sides).
Check out the YouTube Video of the case in action.
The TriStand QR also has a cutout in the case to add a Customised 3D Printed QR Code, QR Code stands for Quick Response Code and was initially invented for the manufacturing industry to track parts being produced, however today, these codes are popping up everywhere and are extremely useful; this code can have any information you want on it from plain text to a URL or a virtual business card. You can now exchange contact details using a simple barcode scanner on your smartphone by scanning this code. Blank covers are also available in a range of colours and there is also the TriStand - iPhone 5 Case without a QR Code for those who do not want a QR code on their case.
The TriStand QR is 3D printed for you when you order fully assembled in a grippy, strong, rugged and lightweight plastic polyamide material in the colours in the drop down box labelled 'Select Material' in the top right of the page.
Featured on DamnGeeky.com
Excess powder from the 3d printing process may make the hinges of the moving parts 'sticky' when your case first arrives but this loosens very quickly.
QR Code NOT included, bought separately Here.
Please also check out the other models in the TriStand product line:
iPhone 4 / 4s:
TriStand - iPhone 4 / 4s Case with Built In Stands
TriStand QR - iPhone 4 / 4s Case with Built In Stands and QR Coded Business Card
TriStand Minimal - Minimalistic iPhone 4 / 4s Case with Built In Stands (cheapest)
iPhone 5:
TriStand - iPhone 5 Case with Built In Stands
TriStand QR - iPhone 5 Case with Built In Stands and QR Coded Business Card
TriStand Minimal - Minimalistic iPhone 5 Case with Built In Stands (cheapest)
This design is protected by the UK 'Design Right'.
© Alex Maund 2012
So what is the TriStand? The TriStand iPhone case is a stylish, rugged, ergonomic and most importantly practical snap on 3D Printed protective case for your iPhone with flip out integrated stands; these can be used in different combinations to produce very geometrically stable stands to stand the iPhone in 1 of 3 orientations, a portrait orientation and 1 of 2 angles on both of the landscape orientations, one is great for typing, and the other is great for watching videos. The flip out stands fold flush to the case and 'snap' into place when not in use to stop the stands from opening by themselves. All this while keeping the thickness of the case at only 2.25mm (and 1.5mm at the sides).
Check out the YouTube Video of the case in action.
The TriStand QR also has a cutout in the case to add a Customised 3D Printed QR Code, QR Code stands for Quick Response Code and was initially invented for the manufacturing industry to track parts being produced, however today, these codes are popping up everywhere and are extremely useful; this code can have any information you want on it from plain text to a URL or a virtual business card. You can now exchange contact details using a simple barcode scanner on your smartphone by scanning this code. Blank covers are also available in a range of colours and there is also the TriStand - iPhone 5 Case without a QR Code for those who do not want a QR code on their case.
The TriStand QR is 3D printed for you when you order fully assembled in a grippy, strong, rugged and lightweight plastic polyamide material in the colours in the drop down box labelled 'Select Material' in the top right of the page.
Featured on DamnGeeky.com
Excess powder from the 3d printing process may make the hinges of the moving parts 'sticky' when your case first arrives but this loosens very quickly.
QR Code NOT included, bought separately Here.
Please also check out the other models in the TriStand product line:
iPhone 4 / 4s:
TriStand - iPhone 4 / 4s Case with Built In Stands
TriStand QR - iPhone 4 / 4s Case with Built In Stands and QR Coded Business Card
TriStand Minimal - Minimalistic iPhone 4 / 4s Case with Built In Stands (cheapest)
iPhone 5:
TriStand - iPhone 5 Case with Built In Stands
TriStand QR - iPhone 5 Case with Built In Stands and QR Coded Business Card
TriStand Minimal - Minimalistic iPhone 5 Case with Built In Stands (cheapest)
This design is protected by the UK 'Design Right'.
© Alex Maund 2012
by
TomZ
About this puzzle
The SuperX was first made by Adam Cowan in December 2006. However, the puzzle was very squishy and the pieces would get out of alignment often. He later tried to improve upon his design by using ball bearings and while this helped a little, the puzzle was also not stable. Later, Andrew Cormier designed a more stable variant with a mechanism that was more like a V-Cube. This puzzle also was squishy, and he later designed a version with magnets to help keep the pieces aligned. Various copies with/without magnets have later been hand built by various builders. Finally, I have designed a version that does not use magnets but uses a clicking mechanism, like that found on a V-Cube 6 to keep the pieces aligned. While the puzzle does not turn as well as Andrew's copy, it saves on the cost and effort of gluing in magnets (magnets don't really adhere well to superglue so they frequently fall out of the puzzle). All previous SuperX's have been built by layering a Dino Cube on to a 2x2x2. My version is the first to use a fundamentally different mechanism. It uses the same mechanism as my Dino 3x3x3, which means the pieces are not just supported from the corners but also from the (internal) edges.
The puzzle turns quite well and is completely stable, but obviously there is the clicking which is slightly more pronounced than on a VCube 6. The pieces have a tiny amount of wiggle room, but the clicking mechanism keeps them in place really well.
Buying information
Ordering this model will get you a DIY kit with all the plastic pieces necessary to build a SuperX, which you will need to assemble yourself. It does not come with the necessary stickers or screws as Shapeways cannot supply. You can purchase stickers from www.dr-sticker.com. The screws can be had from any hardware store, you need M3 screws, about 10-15mm long.
A warning beforehand: this is one of the most tricky to assemble puzzles I've designed. It will also need a good amount of lubrication and breaking in before it will turn as good as the one in my video. I have also increased the fillet radius to prevent locking up, this results in slightly larger gaps near the center than pictured.
If you do not feel like assembling your puzzle yourself, you can also order a fully finished copy from me for a price that is slightly higher than Shapeways', but you miss out on all the fun of assembling your own puzzle! For this service, contact me at tom@tomvanderzanden.nl.
The SuperX was first made by Adam Cowan in December 2006. However, the puzzle was very squishy and the pieces would get out of alignment often. He later tried to improve upon his design by using ball bearings and while this helped a little, the puzzle was also not stable. Later, Andrew Cormier designed a more stable variant with a mechanism that was more like a V-Cube. This puzzle also was squishy, and he later designed a version with magnets to help keep the pieces aligned. Various copies with/without magnets have later been hand built by various builders. Finally, I have designed a version that does not use magnets but uses a clicking mechanism, like that found on a V-Cube 6 to keep the pieces aligned. While the puzzle does not turn as well as Andrew's copy, it saves on the cost and effort of gluing in magnets (magnets don't really adhere well to superglue so they frequently fall out of the puzzle). All previous SuperX's have been built by layering a Dino Cube on to a 2x2x2. My version is the first to use a fundamentally different mechanism. It uses the same mechanism as my Dino 3x3x3, which means the pieces are not just supported from the corners but also from the (internal) edges.
The puzzle turns quite well and is completely stable, but obviously there is the clicking which is slightly more pronounced than on a VCube 6. The pieces have a tiny amount of wiggle room, but the clicking mechanism keeps them in place really well.
Buying information
Ordering this model will get you a DIY kit with all the plastic pieces necessary to build a SuperX, which you will need to assemble yourself. It does not come with the necessary stickers or screws as Shapeways cannot supply. You can purchase stickers from www.dr-sticker.com. The screws can be had from any hardware store, you need M3 screws, about 10-15mm long.
A warning beforehand: this is one of the most tricky to assemble puzzles I've designed. It will also need a good amount of lubrication and breaking in before it will turn as good as the one in my video. I have also increased the fillet radius to prevent locking up, this results in slightly larger gaps near the center than pictured.
If you do not feel like assembling your puzzle yourself, you can also order a fully finished copy from me for a price that is slightly higher than Shapeways', but you miss out on all the fun of assembling your own puzzle! For this service, contact me at tom@tomvanderzanden.nl.
by
worldleader
Günstiges Ersatzteil für Audi A4 B6/B7 (Alle Typ 8E und 8E) Mittelarmlehnen bei gebrochener Verriegelung. In Black Strong & Flexible, ideale Farbe für dunkle/schwarze Innenraumausstattung. NUR verwenden, wenn die Originalfeder noch vorhanden!!! Siehe Bild des Originalteiles, ansonsten andere Version (z.B. mit eingebauter Feder verwenden). --- Zum Ersetzen den Deckel der Armlehne ausbauen (dabei die beiden Halter des Deckels zusammendrücken und den Deckel aus der Armlehne herausdrehen). Den Deckel vom Stoff trennen; mit einem Spachtel Stoffteil und Deckel trennen, in dem man einfach zwischenhineinfährt und die beiden Teile auseinanderdrückt. Das Unterteil ist seitlich 6 x geklipst (siehe Bilder), es reicht aber, wenn man nur die ersten beiden Klipse öffnet um die Verriegelung zu tauschen. Achtung, hier ist eine Feder, die gerne wegspringt! Feder in das Ersatzteil einsetzen (siehe Bild), dann Ersatzteil mit Feder wieder einsetzen. Dabei zuerst die Feder am Deckel einhaken und dann die beiden Pins rechts und links in die Lagerbuchsen einschnappen lassen, dann den Deckel wieder zusammen Klipsen. In der Nähe der Lagerbuchsen sind je eine Klebestelle, hier gegebenenfalls mit Sekundenkleber für mehr Haftung sorgen. --- Auf Anfrage auch gerne mit individuellem Logo oder Design! Auf den Bildern sind das Originalteil mit geklebten Stegen und das Teil in Black Strong & Flexible White Strong & Flexible und Coral Red Strong & Flexible. Diese Teile gibt es auch mit Audiringen, A4- oder Quattroaufschrift! Weiter informationen in diesem shop.------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Low-priced spare part for Audi A4 B6/B7 (Type 8E and 8H) center armrests with a broken lock. Black Strong & Flexible, ideal color for dark / black interior. ONLY use THIS if the original spring still exists! See picture of the original part. Otherwise use different version (eg "with includes spring”). --- To replace lid of the armrest, disassemble armrest by squeezing the two holders of the armrest and remove. Separate the cover from the fabric, by using a putty knife cloth, the lower part is at the side clipped 6 times (see pictures). Just open the first two clips to replace the lock. Attention, here is a spring that likes to jump away! Insert spring into the spare part (see image), then first hook the spring on the cover, and then the two pins can be snap left and right into the bushes, then clip the lid back together. Clips near the bushes are each a splice, here glue if necessary with super glue for more liability. --- On request we can do with customized logo or design. In the pictures are the original part with taped ribs and the part in Black Strong & Flexible and Coral Red Strong & Flexible. This part is also available with Audi rings, A4 or quattro inscription! Further info see other parts in this shop.
by
euphy
Crenalated ring with text (optionally) imprinted onto the faces of the fins. 5mm thick. This is a beefier version of the my Sun Sprocket Light ring.
