by
s_f_x
Update: I am currently working on an updated version, which is more robust and uses a more conventional 3-axis design (one servo per axis). I will leave this model available for spare parts. The new model is currently being tested and should be available soon.
This is a 3-axis gyro-stabilsation gimbal for the GoPro HD Hero camera. Intended use is for aerial video and first-person view (FPV) flying.
(Picture shows all the parts - camera is not included, and this is model here is only the back cage. Check the 3D model to see it. For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. You will also need 3x MKS470 servos, and a 16mm x 8mm ball bearing, not shown)
Video demonstration:
Assembly and servo test
Preliminary Gyro stabilisation test
Current status:
This is still work in progress - the current version has been slightly improved from the version in the video (I strengthened some of the elastic parts and improved the balancing). The gyro control board is my own design and currently not available yet. I will post an update once it is. The IMU is my design as well, and is available here.
You are welcome to order this design now, but be aware that it's still somewhat "beta". Whatever you do with it is entirely your own risk and responsibility, I unfortunately cannot make any claims towards its usefulness, stability or safety...
I would recommend, before you put this on a flying contraption, consider using a safety string to attach the camera to the plane somehow. GoPro cameras are very robust inside their waterproof case, but not quite so robust without that protection. They don't like crashing into the ground (and trust me, I know - as is probably obvious from the picture of my camera... in all fairness, it did mostly survive...)
Assembly instructions
For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. The bearing at the top is a 16mm outer, 8mm inner diameter ball bearing, available from many places. Hobbyking sells those as well.
I will possibly modify the mounting bracket in the future and also offer one with a smaller bearing... this one is total overkill! :)
The servos that will fit are the MKS DS470 (available e.g. from Hobbyking). They do have a little play, but they are very smooth and by far the fastest servo I've seen in that size and price class. I'm still on the lookout for different servos that might be a bit smoother.
Assembly:
1) Press the servos onto the mounting bracket and the flexible arms of the back cage. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the printed piece onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
Remove the servos again after this step.
2) Mount the 3 servos on the servo mounting frame. Start with the yaw servo (the vertical one in the middle).The yaw servo crown has to face downwards (might be a bit fiddly). Make sure the crown of the yaw servo is aligned with the little stub axle on the opposite side. The two roll/pitch servos have to be inserted so that the crown faces the camera (towards the flat side of the mounting arm).
3) Press the mounting bracket onto the yaw servo crown, and put in the screw to hold it in place. On the opposite side, press in the 16mm/8mm ball bearing.
4) Carefully push the disk-shaped closure knob into the cylinder at the top of the camera back cage. You might need to rotate it a bit to ease it into place
5) Push the flexible arms of the back cage onto the two roll/pitch servos, and fix with screws.
-- Update: Seems the MKS has too much gain for the yaw axis, and tends to oscillate a bit with all that weight swinging around. They are fine for the Pitch/Roll arms. I'm still looking for a small servo with high speed, smoothness and no (or little) play... Suggestions are of course welcome!!
-- The servos are still a very tight fit into the control arms and the bracket. I already made it a bit larger, but still not enough. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the arms onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
This is a 3-axis gyro-stabilsation gimbal for the GoPro HD Hero camera. Intended use is for aerial video and first-person view (FPV) flying.
(Picture shows all the parts - camera is not included, and this is model here is only the back cage. Check the 3D model to see it. For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. You will also need 3x MKS470 servos, and a 16mm x 8mm ball bearing, not shown)
Video demonstration:
Assembly and servo test
Preliminary Gyro stabilisation test
Current status:
This is still work in progress - the current version has been slightly improved from the version in the video (I strengthened some of the elastic parts and improved the balancing). The gyro control board is my own design and currently not available yet. I will post an update once it is. The IMU is my design as well, and is available here.
You are welcome to order this design now, but be aware that it's still somewhat "beta". Whatever you do with it is entirely your own risk and responsibility, I unfortunately cannot make any claims towards its usefulness, stability or safety...
I would recommend, before you put this on a flying contraption, consider using a safety string to attach the camera to the plane somehow. GoPro cameras are very robust inside their waterproof case, but not quite so robust without that protection. They don't like crashing into the ground (and trust me, I know - as is probably obvious from the picture of my camera... in all fairness, it did mostly survive...)
Assembly instructions
For the complete kit you have to order the back cage, the front lid, the servo cage and the mounting arm. The bearing at the top is a 16mm outer, 8mm inner diameter ball bearing, available from many places. Hobbyking sells those as well.
I will possibly modify the mounting bracket in the future and also offer one with a smaller bearing... this one is total overkill! :)
The servos that will fit are the MKS DS470 (available e.g. from Hobbyking). They do have a little play, but they are very smooth and by far the fastest servo I've seen in that size and price class. I'm still on the lookout for different servos that might be a bit smoother.
Assembly:
1) Press the servos onto the mounting bracket and the flexible arms of the back cage. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the printed piece onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
Remove the servos again after this step.
2) Mount the 3 servos on the servo mounting frame. Start with the yaw servo (the vertical one in the middle).The yaw servo crown has to face downwards (might be a bit fiddly). Make sure the crown of the yaw servo is aligned with the little stub axle on the opposite side. The two roll/pitch servos have to be inserted so that the crown faces the camera (towards the flat side of the mounting arm).
3) Press the mounting bracket onto the yaw servo crown, and put in the screw to hold it in place. On the opposite side, press in the 16mm/8mm ball bearing.
4) Carefully push the disk-shaped closure knob into the cylinder at the top of the camera back cage. You might need to rotate it a bit to ease it into place
5) Push the flexible arms of the back cage onto the two roll/pitch servos, and fix with screws.
-- Update: Seems the MKS has too much gain for the yaw axis, and tends to oscillate a bit with all that weight swinging around. They are fine for the Pitch/Roll arms. I'm still looking for a small servo with high speed, smoothness and no (or little) play... Suggestions are of course welcome!!
-- The servos are still a very tight fit into the control arms and the bracket. I already made it a bit larger, but still not enough. What works quite well is to carefully push it on just a little (best to put the arms onto a flat surface, and gently push the servo in just a bit to align). Then use a screw (maybe with a washer to spread the force), and slowly pull the arm onto the crown. You only have to do that once, it'll be a tight, smooth fit afterwards.
by
TheoJansen
The first public evolution of the Animaris Geneticus Parvus, #5. Featuring a fully working Theo Jansen mechanism as used in his work "the Rhinoceros". The mechanism is printed assembled, and will work without further assembly right after birth from the printer.
Also see our new Propeller Propulsion add-on, to have your Strandbeest walk autonomously!
A few tips to consider:
- After birth there might be a little powder left in some joints, or it might not go supersmooth. This will fix itself after the animal has a little bit of practice!
- Some surfaces work better than others. The legs require a little friction, and a flat surface. So for example: A rough table or floor, thin flat carpeting, or a thin rubber sheet.
- The best way to push it is by its nameplate. Do not push down, but forward
Also see our new Propeller Propulsion add-on, to have your Strandbeest walk autonomously!
A few tips to consider:
- After birth there might be a little powder left in some joints, or it might not go supersmooth. This will fix itself after the animal has a little bit of practice!
- Some surfaces work better than others. The legs require a little friction, and a flat surface. So for example: A rough table or floor, thin flat carpeting, or a thin rubber sheet.
- The best way to push it is by its nameplate. Do not push down, but forward
by
jes1111
This is the quick-release clip for the OpenPilot CopterControl and CC3D cases. You also need the bottom part and the top part for the board of your choice. Note that you can order multiple clips to enable easy transfer of a board between different frames. More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case and http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CC3D+Case
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CC3D complete set?
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by
jes1111
This is the bottom part of the OpenPilot CopterControl CC3D case. You also need the top part (CC3DCase upper) and (optionally) the base clip (Case base 1 v1). Note that this case is for the CC3D only. The base clip is common to both CC and CC3D versions.
More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case and http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CC3D+Case
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More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case and http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CC3D+Case
CC3D complete set?
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by
jes1111
This is the top part of the OpenPilot CopterControl CC3D case. You also need the bottom part (CC3D Case lower) and (optionally) the base clip (Case base 1 v1).
Note that this case is for the CC3D only. The base clip is common to both CC and CC3D versions.
More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case and http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CC3D+Case
+ +
Note that this case is for the CC3D only. The base clip is common to both CC and CC3D versions.
More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case and http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CC3D+Case
CC3D complete set?
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by
Pazu
Working centrifugal compressor.
Designed to fit standard Mabuchi 130 motors.
Printed and tested.
Upon receiving the item, you'll need to use a 1.8mm drill bit to drill out the center hole. This is due to limitation of the printing process that may not allow the shaft of the motor to be inserted.
Designed to fit standard Mabuchi 130 motors.
Printed and tested.
Upon receiving the item, you'll need to use a 1.8mm drill bit to drill out the center hole. This is due to limitation of the printing process that may not allow the shaft of the motor to be inserted.
by
susan-parker
Over 100 latches ordered in the last 12 months!
Replacement stainless-steel upgrade / repair latch part for the Panasonic SD253 seed / nut dispenser (see pictures).
Easy to fit with a cross head screwdriver.
1. Remove dispenser from lid (it just pops out).
2. Wash?
3. Remove old latch part by undoing the two cross head screws and lifting out U bracket.
4. Rescue the small spring which keeps the latch engaged.
5. This spring has one end that narrows down slightly. Hold the very end of this with tweezers or needle point pliers and then wrap the spring onto the cross (a tooth pick or a match end is handy for this).
6. Place new latch in position, add bracket and resecure with the two screws.
7. Make bread.
Any help / comments please get in touch.
Replacement stainless-steel upgrade / repair latch part for the Panasonic SD253 seed / nut dispenser (see pictures).
Easy to fit with a cross head screwdriver.
1. Remove dispenser from lid (it just pops out).
2. Wash?
3. Remove old latch part by undoing the two cross head screws and lifting out U bracket.
4. Rescue the small spring which keeps the latch engaged.
5. This spring has one end that narrows down slightly. Hold the very end of this with tweezers or needle point pliers and then wrap the spring onto the cross (a tooth pick or a match end is handy for this).
6. Place new latch in position, add bracket and resecure with the two screws.
7. Make bread.
Any help / comments please get in touch.
by
barbecuesteve
This adapter holds your Apple "MagSafe to MagSafe 2 Adapter" snugly and hooks to your power adapter's cord. For that power adapter that is used to serve both old and new Macs!
by
Oskar_van_Deventer
Hollow Cube is a Rubik's Cube that has been made as hollow as possible. The pieces are held together by dovetail connections. Because the puzzle consists mainly of air, it is very affordable.
Watch the YouTube video
Read on the Shapeways Forum
Read more at the Twisty Puzzle Forum
Please contact Oskar directly if you are interested in obtaining a fully colored, stickered and assembled sample of this puzzle.
Watch the YouTube video
Read on the Shapeways Forum
Read more at the Twisty Puzzle Forum
Please contact Oskar directly if you are interested in obtaining a fully colored, stickered and assembled sample of this puzzle.
by
TomZ
This fully working 12mm 3x3x3 Cube is nearly five times smaller than the original Rubik's Cube - it is far smaller than just a single cubelet of its big brother. It is printed in one piece, without the need for assembly. A thin layer of wax keeps the parts separated during printing, which is then melted away to yield this fully functional Rubik's Cube.
IMPORTANT - READ BEFORE BUYING
Since Shapeways' can not remove all of the wax themselves, you will probably have to do some work to get your print to turn. You should boil some water and put it in a cup along with your cube. Leave it in there for a few moments, and stir to help speed up the wax removal. Then remove from the cup with a teaspoon, and (being careful not to get burns from the water) gently move one or more sides. You may need to put the cube back in to the water to melt more wax and continue this process untill all of the pieces are freed up. You may also need to use a small knife to help separate some pieces. Note that if the wax cools down, the puzzle may become more difficult to move.
Since the heat also softens the puzzle plastic, it is very delicate when warm. You should take extreme caution while removing the excess wax. Neither Shapeways or me can take responsibility if your puzzle breaks during this process. It might therefore be recommendable to order more than one copy of this puzzle.
It might make things a lot easier if you put soap in the water, that might help dissolve the wax. I haven't tested it myself but it sounds promising.
IMPORTANT - READ BEFORE BUYING
Since Shapeways' can not remove all of the wax themselves, you will probably have to do some work to get your print to turn. You should boil some water and put it in a cup along with your cube. Leave it in there for a few moments, and stir to help speed up the wax removal. Then remove from the cup with a teaspoon, and (being careful not to get burns from the water) gently move one or more sides. You may need to put the cube back in to the water to melt more wax and continue this process untill all of the pieces are freed up. You may also need to use a small knife to help separate some pieces. Note that if the wax cools down, the puzzle may become more difficult to move.
Since the heat also softens the puzzle plastic, it is very delicate when warm. You should take extreme caution while removing the excess wax. Neither Shapeways or me can take responsibility if your puzzle breaks during this process. It might therefore be recommendable to order more than one copy of this puzzle.
It might make things a lot easier if you put soap in the water, that might help dissolve the wax. I haven't tested it myself but it sounds promising.
by
jes1111
This is the top part of the OpenPilot CopterControl case. You also need the bottom part and (optionally) the base.
More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case
IMPORTANT NOTE: Due to some very slight dimensional differences, this case needs some minor modifications with a knife/file to fit the CC3D. A separate version is available for the CC3D.
More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case
IMPORTANT NOTE: Due to some very slight dimensional differences, this case needs some minor modifications with a knife/file to fit the CC3D. A separate version is available for the CC3D.
by
ZeusRage
Cool android hand that can be used as a paper weight or as an epic desktop item.
by
jes1111
This is the bottom part of the OpenPilot CopterControl case. You also need the top part (Case upper v1) and (optionally) the base (Case base 1 v1). More info here: http://wiki.openpilot.org/display/Doc/CopterControl+case
IMPORTANT NOTE: Due to some very slight dimensional differences, this case needs some minor modifications with a knife/file to fit the CC3D. A separate version is available for the CC3D.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Due to some very slight dimensional differences, this case needs some minor modifications with a knife/file to fit the CC3D. A separate version is available for the CC3D.
by
simensays
Lever kit (#1) for the DJI Phantom Transmitter, including Steering Rod and 4 lever heads (the Wheel, the Scoop, the Spoon & the Shorty). Please note that you need to provide your own screw, preferably 2mm x 12mm long.
DJI broke the news at this years NAB, that the stock white DJI Phantom Transmitter, has a hidden channel on the back, that controls the sought after X1 manual tilt control for your gimbal or camera mount. They are releasing a gimbal in June, and with this gimbal, it is said that you will receive a small lever, that you mount into your stock transmitter.
The Shorty lever head, is approximately the same size as the ones DJI used on the transmitters on NAB. A quick search on YouTube for DJI and NAB 2013, show the gimbal and they explain the hidden 7th Channel.
The other two lever heads are upgraded levers, designed to suit different grips on the transmitter, and personal preferences on how to best operate your tilt control.
You need to open the transmitter (very easy) with the four screws on the back. Slip the steering rod inside the top bottom hole (X1). Then you put on the desired lever head, and fix with a 2mm scrw (10-15 mm length). Gently fit the steering rod into the X1 pot, and rotete it to the end point in a counterc clockwise direction. Note which way the cross in center of the pot is angels, for when you mount the lever head, so it will have a position/range that works best for you. When attaching the back lid, postion the lever head in the same position you noted earlier, and scrw together. Note, the pot is made of soft plastic, and can easily be damaged. If you want to reposition your level head, remove the back lid first, then rotate the lever and reattach it. The design of the steering rod, ensures a snug fit when transmitter is screw back together, with downward pressure of the steering rod, so the pot will be safe.
Some drilling might be needed to fit the scrw. I use a 2mm x 12mm scrw. also it can be wise to screw in the scrw on both rod & head individually before assembling, to tap out the holes, making it easier to assemble.
After installing the lever assembly, you can set the gains for the X1 Manual, in the Naza Assistant. Default value is 100%. By lowering this value, the tilt movement is slower, and you get a smoother tilt feel.
You do need a gimbal or camera mount with a tilt axis to achieve this, but I guess you know that.
DJI Phantom Lever Kit (for 7th channel) from simensays on Vimeo.
DJI broke the news at this years NAB, that the stock white DJI Phantom Transmitter, has a hidden channel on the back, that controls the sought after X1 manual tilt control for your gimbal or camera mount. They are releasing a gimbal in June, and with this gimbal, it is said that you will receive a small lever, that you mount into your stock transmitter.
The Shorty lever head, is approximately the same size as the ones DJI used on the transmitters on NAB. A quick search on YouTube for DJI and NAB 2013, show the gimbal and they explain the hidden 7th Channel.
The other two lever heads are upgraded levers, designed to suit different grips on the transmitter, and personal preferences on how to best operate your tilt control.
You need to open the transmitter (very easy) with the four screws on the back. Slip the steering rod inside the top bottom hole (X1). Then you put on the desired lever head, and fix with a 2mm scrw (10-15 mm length). Gently fit the steering rod into the X1 pot, and rotete it to the end point in a counterc clockwise direction. Note which way the cross in center of the pot is angels, for when you mount the lever head, so it will have a position/range that works best for you. When attaching the back lid, postion the lever head in the same position you noted earlier, and scrw together. Note, the pot is made of soft plastic, and can easily be damaged. If you want to reposition your level head, remove the back lid first, then rotate the lever and reattach it. The design of the steering rod, ensures a snug fit when transmitter is screw back together, with downward pressure of the steering rod, so the pot will be safe.
Some drilling might be needed to fit the scrw. I use a 2mm x 12mm scrw. also it can be wise to screw in the scrw on both rod & head individually before assembling, to tap out the holes, making it easier to assemble.
After installing the lever assembly, you can set the gains for the X1 Manual, in the Naza Assistant. Default value is 100%. By lowering this value, the tilt movement is slower, and you get a smoother tilt feel.
You do need a gimbal or camera mount with a tilt axis to achieve this, but I guess you know that.
by
AnalogueRobot
[Please note: This is the original version of the hood, there is now a 2nd version with cutout, alignment marker and slightly wider opening. Both work fine.] This hood fits to the existing bayonet attachment via a very tight friction fit. On first fitting it may feel you are forcing it, but this is normal and the mount has been tested across 3 different examples. The print maybe a little tighter than usual, if this is the case, cleaning out the bayonet grooves will remedy the situation.
This hood will also work on the Zeiss 50/2 Planar, tho won't offer as much shading as it's dedicated hood.
This is a compact hood for the Voigtlander 35mm f1.4 Nokton Classic lens, as a replacement for the £48+ one that Voigtlander offers. It's more compact and has been calculated to offer greater shading.
Because the Voigtlander 40mm f1.4 Nokton Classic is almost the same lens, but will a narrower FOV, this hood will also work for this lens too.
It's rectangular cutout is 10% wider than the lens' field of view for full frame, has been tested on a full frame camera without vignetting. On a crop body such as the M8 or NEX ranges, there should be no problem at all.
by
lorddarthvik
! Important Material Notice ! : Recently some of you have tried to buy this model in WSF, Detail and other materials, but the model got rejected. I am very sorry about this, as this model used to be printable in those materials when I first offered it for buying, but since then the checking software of Shapeways got updated and rejects the model for having thin walls. Currently due to the strict Shapeways software, this model is only Printable in Frosted Ultra Detail material. This is confirmed as I have one on my desk made of Frosted Ultra Detail, with a rotating turbine.
This is a little thingy for your keychain. It is in the shape of a jet engine, a great gift for aircraft fans! The turbine inside is designed to rotate.
This is a little thingy for your keychain. It is in the shape of a jet engine, a great gift for aircraft fans! The turbine inside is designed to rotate.
by
macnutz
Bugaboo Locking Disk Right Side (Non Brake Lever Side) This model is solid for maximum strength when used with plastics. It costs $50 in stainless steel so I had a hollowed out version made for the stainless steel option. I find a lot of Bugaboo's with hollowed plastic disks so I will now offer that option as well. Check out my hollowed out file for a $10 WSF of $12 BSF option
by
TomZ
The 4x5x6 Cuboid is the next step up from my 3x4x5. This puzzle was made at the request of Sigurd Wedel. Just like the 3x4x5 this one shapeshifts as 90 degree turns are possible on the 4x6 faces.
In the design I've used a mechanism slightly different from that of my 3x4x5 and slightly more like a V-Cube. The result is a puzzle that rotates very smoothly, even better than the 3x4x5. This puzzle is truly very complex, having more than 40 different mechanical parts.
Read more about this puzzle on twistypuzzles.com
Buyer information & Claim your free set of stickers
This puzzle comes as a DIY kit. You will need to assemble the puzzle yourself and also provide your own screws (6 M3 screws of 10-15mm, suitable springs and small washers recommended). A free set of printed stickers is included, please send me an email after buying to claim your free stickers (I ship them separately, they're not included in your order from Shapeways). You can also purchase a fully assembled and stickered puzzle from me on request. Please contact me directly for this service.
by
Sapient8
This is an altered version of the gearbox model available from the ShapwaysMechanical page.
The parts have been perforated in some spots to be slightly more streamlined and also a little cheaper to produce too.
No assembly required, though the middle set of gears must be snapped down into position in order to engage the surrounding gears. I assume this was built into the design to keep larger gaps during the printing process.
The parts have been perforated in some spots to be slightly more streamlined and also a little cheaper to produce too.
No assembly required, though the middle set of gears must be snapped down into position in order to engage the surrounding gears. I assume this was built into the design to keep larger gaps during the printing process.
by
macnutz
Bugaboo Locking Disk Left Side (Brake Lever Side) This model is solid for maximum strength when used with plastics. It costs $50 in stainless steel so I had a hollowed out version made for the stainless steel option. I find a lot of Bugaboo's with hollowed plastic disks so I will now offer that option as well. Check out my hollowed out file for a $10 WSF of $12 BSF option
by
IHeartEngineering
This ia a modular case for the Arduino Microcontroller. It has been designed to fit 6 across in a 1U Rack with a little room to spare. M3 Screws are suggested and not included. The holes have not been drilled or tapped, so you can use #4-40 screws as well.
by
K&T
A compact 90 degree elbow mount compatible with other GoPro Accessories. This mount allows you to attach the GoPro Camera very tight to a vertical surface.
by
inthompx
These little bits are the main links in an N64 joystick. They are also the parts that wear out and cause your joystick to go floppy. Why try to find a good controller at some re-sale shop when you can repair it yourself for half the price.
by
IHeartEngineering
The part allows you to mount the Parallax Ping))) sensor on the Hitec HS-325HB Servo. It has been optimized for Shapeways printing with the Grey Robust material.
The activity light and connector pin outs are visible.
This part will require drilling and fasteners. Two M3x5mm and two M2x6mm screws are suggested. If you don''t have the necessary taps you can use nuts.
YouTube assembly Video is available here. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5oXFVhrQr8
The activity light and connector pin outs are visible.
This part will require drilling and fasteners. Two M3x5mm and two M2x6mm screws are suggested. If you don''t have the necessary taps you can use nuts.
YouTube assembly Video is available here. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5oXFVhrQr8
by
jasolo
Warning: this is an old but functional version. Check the newer version at:
http://www.shapeways.com/model/146656/universal_ring_dial_2.html
This Universal Equinoctial Ring Dial is a portable and self-orientating sundial. You can see how a similar dial works: http://www.sunwatchmaker.com/instructions.php .
You''ll get in position the meridian ring, the equatorial ring and the central bar. The eyelet must be inserted through the "jasolo fecit" part of the meridian ring. The slider is entered through the slit of the central bar and then it is turned with a little force.
For finishing, dip the model a couple of hours in cold tea (hot or warm tea will deform the model). Later, paint with black ink the marks and once dried, remove the ink with a wet tissue (ink will remain on the marks).
http://www.shapeways.com/model/146656/universal_ring_dial_2.html
This Universal Equinoctial Ring Dial is a portable and self-orientating sundial. You can see how a similar dial works: http://www.sunwatchmaker.com/instructions.php .
You''ll get in position the meridian ring, the equatorial ring and the central bar. The eyelet must be inserted through the "jasolo fecit" part of the meridian ring. The slider is entered through the slit of the central bar and then it is turned with a little force.
For finishing, dip the model a couple of hours in cold tea (hot or warm tea will deform the model). Later, paint with black ink the marks and once dried, remove the ink with a wet tissue (ink will remain on the marks).
by
simensays
Simensays Foldable Landing Gear Kit
for the DJI Phantom. A smart, modular design that can be folded up in seconds without the need for any tools, any length for the leg extensions (height of the Phantom) for the gimbal of choose or any additional fear you might be mounting.Easy to assemble and light weight (the parts in the kit weighs 33 grams), yet strong and very stable. Check out this assembly video for how to put it all together. This kit includes the white parts you see in the pictures, and you provide the carbon fibre tubing yourself (list & links below). I recommend making a small 2.5mm hole on each side of the battery trey, as seen in the video, to mount the 3rd screw, that secures a strong mount for the landing gear. Tap out the hole, using a 3mm screw before mounting it all. I also used a M3 lock nut on the inside for optimal strength.
Parts needed
Carbon Tubes
Most finer hobby shops have carbon fibre tube in these dimensions. I ordered the carbon fibre tubing from eBay (links below):Materials
I recommend White Strong & Flexible Polished. To make the parts stay clean and a fresh white, I recommend spray them with a coat of white paint. I used cheap automotive spray can, and it looks great.Videos of more mods to my Phantom
Check out my website www.simensays.com for more pics & videos of mods I have made to my Phantom.Disclaimer
This is a DIY kit, so some minor adjustments might be needed.
by
simensays
DJI Phantom Landing Gear Kit, includes the Leg Mounts, Compass Mount and 4 Leg Ends.
These mounts fit directly to your Phantom, using the stock screws, and replace your stock landing gear. You provide your own 6mm tubing (preferably carbon fibre or aluminium), cut to the desired length, to give you the height you want, in order to allow for dampening set ups/gimbals/bigger cameras and so on. I have found 5" tube to be an ideal length for my set up, with gimbal and GoPro.
Please note, that the tubing is not included in the listing, they are to show what the assembled kit looks like on the leg extensions. The kit includes 4 Leg Mounts, 1 Compass Mount and 4 Leg Ends.
These are a beefed up version of the previous Leg Mounts I made, and use in the video, showing how I made the set up on my Phantom.
Updated, so tubing can be pushed into the holes (which are slightly cones), and secured with a 3mm fixing screw (not included). The mounts are directional, like your props. see pictures above for reference or check out this video of how I assembled mine http://vimeo.com/simensays/phantom
This is a simple DIY mod that replaces the stock landing gear, allowing you to easily make your Phantom taller, more stable, save weight (depending on how long you want your legs and what type of tubing you use) and a better overall look and stance. Only basic tools are needed. I am setting up a blog on my website, where I will post info, videos etc on other mods I have done to my quad, including how to make the leg extensions. www.simensays.com
Beware to mount your Compass correctly, to maintain optimal flight characteristics on your Phantom. It should be mounted perpendicular to the body, in a vertical position. The included compass Mounts makes this very easy when using these legs. I use velcro on to fasten my compass.
These mounts fit directly to your Phantom, using the stock screws, and replace your stock landing gear. You provide your own 6mm tubing (preferably carbon fibre or aluminium), cut to the desired length, to give you the height you want, in order to allow for dampening set ups/gimbals/bigger cameras and so on. I have found 5" tube to be an ideal length for my set up, with gimbal and GoPro.
Please note, that the tubing is not included in the listing, they are to show what the assembled kit looks like on the leg extensions. The kit includes 4 Leg Mounts, 1 Compass Mount and 4 Leg Ends.
These are a beefed up version of the previous Leg Mounts I made, and use in the video, showing how I made the set up on my Phantom.
Updated, so tubing can be pushed into the holes (which are slightly cones), and secured with a 3mm fixing screw (not included). The mounts are directional, like your props. see pictures above for reference or check out this video of how I assembled mine http://vimeo.com/simensays/phantom
This is a simple DIY mod that replaces the stock landing gear, allowing you to easily make your Phantom taller, more stable, save weight (depending on how long you want your legs and what type of tubing you use) and a better overall look and stance. Only basic tools are needed. I am setting up a blog on my website, where I will post info, videos etc on other mods I have done to my quad, including how to make the leg extensions. www.simensays.com
Beware to mount your Compass correctly, to maintain optimal flight characteristics on your Phantom. It should be mounted perpendicular to the body, in a vertical position. The included compass Mounts makes this very easy when using these legs. I use velcro on to fasten my compass.
by
TomZ
This is the Multidodecahedron. A puzzle that has all the parts from the Megaminx, Pyraminx Crystal, Starminx, Master Pentultimate and Pentultimate and requires you to solve them simultaneously. This puzzle was initially suggested by Carl Hoff, who coined the name Multidodecahedron.
About ordering
To purchase a Multidodecahedron DIY kit, you should purchase this model and then must send me an email with your order number so I can give the necessary instructions to Shapeways. This kit comes with free stickers so please also include your mailing address so I can send them to you (note: I am currently not offering super stickers).This puzzle comes as a kit which you will need to assemble yourself. You will need to provide M3 screws and optional springs and or washers. You can also contact me directly to purchase a fully assembled and stickered copy of this puzzle.
by
K&T
This mount allows you to attach a GoPro camera to the skid of a model helicopter. It has been designed for an Align T-Rex 600 Pro, but in general it should fit any skid tube with a diameter of 9mm. The mount is engineered to allow the use of standard GoPro mounting hardware and accessories. Please keep in mind that since this is a fixed mount if you have vibrations in the heli they will translate into vibrations on the image.
The mount should be able to withstand basic acrobatic manoeuvres, but as you probably understand, I will not take responsibility for any loss... If you're looking for more robust mount, please checkout my 9mm Heavy Duty Camera Rig, found here
Also Check these out:
by
madox
This is a working demonstration of a mechanical iris diaphragm.
WARNING :- Please note the tolerances are a bit tight and depending on print orientation it may require a bit of cleaning.
Will post photos and videos later.
Early Video :- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLSfJjS7QUE
Better but short video :-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXf9ck0LAYo
WARNING :- Please note the tolerances are a bit tight and depending on print orientation it may require a bit of cleaning.
Will post photos and videos later.
Early Video :- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLSfJjS7QUE
Better but short video :-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXf9ck0LAYo
