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  <title>Shapeways: Bring your creativity to life in 3D</title>
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  <description>Shapeways: Bring your creativity to life in 3D</description>
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<item rdf:about="http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&amp;goto=43305&amp;th=8100#msg_43305">
  <title>Mold from Master Copy</title>
  <link>http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&amp;goto=43305&amp;th=8100#msg_43305</link>
  <description><![CDATA[I was wondering if anyone has made a silicone mold from a 3D print. What material would be best? <br />
<br />
White, Strong &amp; Flexible<br />
White Detail<br />
Frosted Detail &amp; Ultra Detail<br />
<br />
Any information would be greatly appreciated!<br />
<br />
Thanks! <img src="http://www.shapeways.com/forum/images/smiley_icons/icon_biggrin.gif" border=0 alt="Very Happy"> ]]></description>
  <dc:subject></dc:subject>
  <dc:creator>BrianEdwards</dc:creator>
  <dc:date>2012-02-01T22:10:47-00:00</dc:date>
</item>

<item rdf:about="http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&amp;goto=43316&amp;th=8100#msg_43316">
  <title>Re: Mold from Master Copy</title>
  <link>http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&amp;goto=43316&amp;th=8100#msg_43316</link>
  <description><![CDATA[You haven't given enough DETAIL.  Double-meaning there.  WSF isn't going to work unless you spend some time after receiving it in prep work to make the surface smooth.  If the detail material is good enough to capture the all the parts of your model, then save yourself some money and use that.  UD and FUD are the best, but can be fragile and you may end up de-molding your master in pieces.]]></description>
  <dc:subject></dc:subject>
  <dc:creator>Roy_Stevens</dc:creator>
  <dc:date>2012-02-02T01:48:25-00:00</dc:date>
</item>

<item rdf:about="http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&amp;goto=43997&amp;th=8100#msg_43997">
  <title>Re: Mold from Master Copy</title>
  <link>http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=rview&amp;goto=43997&amp;th=8100#msg_43997</link>
  <description><![CDATA[You can make silicone moulds from any of the printed materials but beware.<br />
Some silicones can be &quot;poisoned&quot; by extraneous support media left on FD and UFD models.<br />
This media is very difficult to eliminate and can result in small sticky areas where the rubber has failed to cure.<br />
Choice of silicone very important and you should consult with the supplier.<br />
WSF has given me no problems with silicone curing , but the surface roughness can make mould stripping difficult. <br />
Painting with primer and flatting where possible will help as with this pattern for a 7 !/4&quot; gauge steam locomotive part.<br />
<img src="http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e279/CPTABDAB123/DSCF4188.jpg" border=0 alt="http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e279/CPTABDAB123/DSCF4188.jpg"><br />
Polished WSF is easier to strip , as you would expect.<br />
You can see several examples of moulds taken from printed patterns at;<br />
<a href="http&#58;&#47;&#47;www.unionsteammodels.co.uk/forum" target="_blank">http://www.unionsteammodels.co.uk/forum</a>]]></description>
  <dc:subject></dc:subject>
  <dc:creator>abby</dc:creator>
  <dc:date>2012-02-14T10:14:58-00:00</dc:date>
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